I was just wondering how hard it is to install a lowering kit on a 2007.5 LMM? I'm thinking of looking into one just wondering how detailed the procedure is...thanks

anyone out there?

I know someone out there's put one of these things on...just looking for some advice...

You said leveling in the title and lowering in the comment. Which one are you referring to?

I meant to type leveling...sorry about that...maybe that's why I haven't gotten any responses...

It depends what way you want to do it.

You can crank up your stock torsion bars to gain a few inches. At this point you should add longer shocks or shock extenders. You also will need an alignment.

You can do the Cognito upper control arms as well. The two main purposes of the Cog arms are (1) Corrected upper ball joint angle vs. stock UCA angle (ugly) and (2) The Cog arm gives you more clearance to your bump stop to allow for a better ride when you crank up the bars. You should not need the "green" keys do either on of these options. I had them on my truck and ended up not needing them and using the stockers.

My truck is stock right now...I just want everything to be "level" whereas right now the front is lower than the rear...at this point in time I have no plans of jacking the truck up until I get some more miles on it...just level and that's it...:) hope that helps...all advice appreciated!

What's your objective?

Front sits too low?
Bed sits too high?
Wanting to up-size the tires?

Depending on the objective, you may or may not need a leveling kit. Nor-Cal Nick's website has installation notes for Cognito 2/3 lift (here) (http://www.norcaltruck.com/cognito-2-3.html). It's better to define the goal before diving into the details. Nick solved my problem with new shocks and drop shackles to lower the Bed ... level kit not needed.

Excerpt from webpage:
8 out of 10 GM 8-lug vehicles do not even need new torsion bar adjusters to level out. Typically, with a Cognito leveling kit install, the factory torsion bar adjusters are turned all the way up, and that’s it! . . .

so what's the best and proper thing to just plain outright get it level in the front???

You can crank up the torsion bars with your stock keys in place. You can go about 2"-ish and be at the limit of the front shocks and crappy upper ball joint angle. You can get the lower shock extenders and that wil help some.

does anyone even make a lowering kit for the new LMM platform? Like BELLTECH or MC GAUGHYS ???

My objective was to reduce height as practical, level the truck, and upsize the tires to 33s.

Nor-Cal Nick suggest using 2" drop shackles in the rear (thanks Nick!). ;)
He also added Cog-braces up front, plus Bilsteins all around to damp the GM bunnyHop.
After dropping the rear by 2", I only needed to crank ~ 1.5" up front to reach approx.level
(now at ~41" front and ~42" rear)
With 9-inch wheels at +25 offset, it fits 33s under the fenders, no cutting. :p:

If you're looking for the "street lifted look" at 3-inches above factory, you should just phone Nick for the Cognito 2-3 kit. If you simply want to level the truck, you might try balancing rear to front. Prolly saves half a D-buck.

All I wanted to do was make mine level but at the same time make a few inches higher. I installed the green keys way back when, and then found that I only needed the d/s one. The OE key on the d/s was bottomed out and the p/s I had plenty of adjustment on when I leveled it out. With the green keys, they gave me plenty of adjustment on the d/s but the p/s I barely had two turns on the bolt and the height was right where the oe key was. So I put the oe key back in the p/s and left the green in the d/s.. Hope I didnt confuse anybody fwiw. If you look @ my garage I havent loaded the pics with the 315's on yet. Will do soon.

Yeah at some point I definitely wouldn't mind being able to run 33's...the max I would be going would be 35's but I don't foresee that happening...:)

I was just wondering how hard it is to install a lowering kit on a 2007.5 LMM? I'm thinking of looking into one just wondering how detailed the procedure is...thanks... thread started out asking about "NBS lowering kit" ??? For just bare minimums of leveling, you can follow the route NC-Nick did for mine ... as above, balancing the rear to front. That's regarding my 2500 4WD ... not sure it's the same for a 2WD.

As for a mild lift, seems to me that 33s totally fill the NBS fenders w/rocker panel leveled at the bolt circle, and that's about the max tire height before you must begin cutting sheetmetal. Fact is, as my torsion bars begin to "ease" into mid-life, they are beginning to allow the 33s to touch the rocker going up full lock driveway aprons.

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/garageimage.php?do=full&p=47474&d=1198442818

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/garageimage.php?do=full&p=47477&d=1198442844

The best case would be 32" tall, but they weren't available for my Pirelli on 20" wheels. Anything larger than 33" must have the rocker panel lifted above the bolt circle. Then a Lift is req'd, or major cutting of sheetmetal (repeat ... referring to LMM, new body).

Just realized that my drop-shackles were ~$200 installed. That means the basic Cog-lift cost wouldn't be much different than the rear-to-front leveling. Since I have a limitation on garaging, Nick needed to balance mine downwards, but the foolproof way to get 33s in there is with Nick's basic Cognito 2-3 program, plus Bilsteins. Either way, NCT really understands the Dmax suspension ... lucky for me, NCT are here in NorCal.