This information applies to 2004-05 Chevrolet and GMC Full Size 2500HD and 3500 trucks with the letter F in VIN position 11, designating the Flint asembly plant. At this plant, between March and September, 2004, the torque guns used to attach the door check link to the pillar were set to a low torque level.

Do not replace either check link or the door hinge to address this issue.

Remove the bolt, clean the threads and reapply LoctiteŽ 242, GM p/n 12345382 (GM p/n 10953489 in Canada). Install the bolt and torque to 25 Nm (18 lb ft).


Source: http://www.gmtechlink.com/images/issues/cnt_mo/TLcme.html#story14

is my door going to fall off???

I seriously doubt it.

Max Power...........had this exact problem!! My door check link screws (2) on each door in the front were so loose you could turn them with your fingers. Re-tightened, however did not use lock tite. Probably should have ........good info. Rick

thanks for the link,max power.I have a front end wobbling issue,feels like something is loose,could this be linked to tire pressure?the tires say 80 psi cold,mine are at 65psi,should I lower the front tires psi for a possible smoother ride,or does that compromise fuel economy?

my passenger door did that for a few days and the dealer had it fixed in 15 minutes.............must have known what the issue was

Had the problem at about 5k miles. Sounded like my door was coming off when closing it. I took a look and tightened the two bolts. Five minutes later, good as new.
Rob

I just checked my 05 and the 11th digit on my vin is "E" this means mine was built at Pontiac if I am not mistaken.

Pulled boot back on door to expose nuts on link. Both nuts on both doors were so loose you could take them off with your fingers. Removed put red lock tite on and retightened. No more popping and creaking. Thanks all for the good info because I have been procratinating on taking it to the dealer.


Thanks,
cushmanman

2005 2500HD mfg July, 22nd 2004 with reflash:)

I'm an idiot.... My drivers door does this, but I can't figure out where the loose bolts are. Does anybody have a picture?


Thanks.!

madmax69

Open your door in the middle of the door there is a rod that attaches to the center of the door pillar with one bolt. Now look at the other end where it attaches to the door. There is a rubber boot attached to the door where the rod go's inside the door. Pull the boot back and look inside the door you will see 2-each 10 mm nuts inside. Remove the nuts one at a time and apply some lock tite and then replace the nuts and retighten. All set no more popping.:p :p


Cushmanman

Got it...... thanks, that fixed it.! I checked the other 3 doors and they were a lil loose also, but the drivers door (the one that popped) was barely finger tight.!

You guys are great.! That drove me crazy, and my dealer is 2 far away to take it there for something that small.....

thanks.!):h

You guys rule! I was supposed to drop my truck off at the dealer tomorrow for this issue, been driving me crazy! I just went out and looked and sure enough, the nuts were loose. 5 minute fix! Thanks.
Pete

I also checked mine and it is also an E and on the door it said built in pontiac Mich.

Thank you for solving that annoying popping noise. I thought it was coming from something loose outsided. It was doing it in a strong head wind and bumpy road, it was driving me nuts.

Ditto. Had 'F' in the VIN, and had noticed the popping noise. All 4 doors had loose nuts on them. Took less than 5 minutes to tighten, and creaking/popping noise is gone!! Thanks!!!

-JM

i have the same issue on just the rear door. now i know what the noise is and how to fix. thanks
while i am at it i will check the rest too.

Hope it worked. found the front door loose enough to unscrew by hand, the door that was popping in back had one loose.

just a wealth of information on here:)