What do you guys think. I know eveyone here does the Cognito leveling kits but I don't want increased angles on CV joints and I am cheap!!:).

So here is my thought. The factory shocks are 5/8" short prohibiting full droop of upper UCA. So replace with Bilstien's and crank TB'S 1" just to be conservative. The new tires measure 32.8" tall and the old ones where 31.7" tall a difference of 1.1". Cut that in half and that is .55 or about 5/8". So that is only a loss of about 3/8" of wheel travel right?

Do you think this would be enough lift to fit these tires or does it really depend on the wheels. I am lost on the whole offset thing.

I am wanting the combination of BFG A/T's 285/70/17 with the Motto Metal 951 in 17x9 or the pro comp 6001 in 17x8.

crank t-bars no lift no leveling kit A OK:saluteusa:

on stock wheels u shouldnt have a problem, with aftermarkets u might need to goto 2" and do some trimming, im at 2.5" with just longer shocks and it rides like stock if not better and my angles arent that steep

I wish I could just get green keys and blocks for mine b/c I can't afford the leveling kit. I've already replaced pitman/idler with brace, bilsteins and now tierods....Would they just wear out again even faster?

I just posted same answer in that other thread about 285/70/17s. Other guys are having trouble with it, but my experience says it should work fine.

On my NBS 2500 HD, cranking the Tbars by just an inch clears my 33s. If you're using factory 17s at 5" bkspc ... seems it should be good-to-go. I guess there's a chance the wider tires might touch the sway bar due to sidewalls bulging??

I used wheels that are 9" wide, same as factory offset, no rubbing with 33" tall (305/55x20).
Please post your results.

If I understand it correctly you will only loose down travel by cranking your T-bars. The longer shocks should, as you stated, help that situation. The part that worries me (I too am looking to change to 285/70/17 tires) is that cranking only changes ride height, the wheel will still have as much compression travel as it did before (actually more). So if the tires rubbed before, they will still rub, but only when you hit a bump, which would seem to cause some damage. Is my logic correct? If not please correct me.

. . . cranking only changes ride height, the wheel will still have as much compression travel as it did before (actually more).

So if the tires rubbed before, they will still rub, but only when you hit a bump, which would seem to cause some damage. Is my logic correct? If not please correct me.
As I understand it, yes you are correct. However, the Tbar has increasing resistance during that incremental compression space, so I'm not sure the rubbing is so likely as you inferred.

Beyond the up/down travel range of the NBS suspension, there's yet another conflict area. Actual interference points are notably shifted by placement of the wheel between the fender and the sway bar ... ergo, offset/backspace becomes critical.

Looking down from the top, my tire is a 33x12 rectangle. BUT, the hypotenuse of that rectangle is 35+ inches from "inside front shoulder" to "outside rear shoulder". As that rectangle swings on the steering axis, it's that LONGER 35-inch DIMENSION that's prone to touch the NBS rocker panel ... but only at full lock ... and only in reverse, when compression isn't in play. Go Figure!
(... somewhat over-simplified for clarity, but that's what's happening.)

Reducing backspace widens the front track;
and moves the tire outboard;
and exposes that nice stripe of beefy tread;
and accelerates timing of contact at that pinch point (for the NBS).
Reality is, with only 1.5" on the Tbars, my 33s don't contact anywhere else. The 305/55x20 was the only choice for the E-rated Pirelli that I wanted. Since I also wanted the truck as low as possible, Nick didn't switch me to Cognito UCAs. Rather, he just barely leveled with the factory Tbars, added the Cognito braces, and sized the Bilsteins to fit. Garage Notes here. (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/garage.php?do=view&g=17182)
Nor-Cal Nick knew exactly what he was talking about. :rockit:

I just got back from my local tire shop. I felt like I was at Home Depot and couldn't get help. If I didn't know exactly what I was looking for "Timmy" couldn't help!!!:mad: Noboby could answer my question regarding wheel choices.

They mounted a 285/75/16 BFG on some unknown wheel with unknown offset and it rubbed at the back fairly hard.

I would like to get either the Moto Metal 951 or Pro Comp 6001 and asked if a different offset could help with the rubbing issues. I am sure there is a specific offset or sumthing that would help. I am willing to crank TB's up to 1.5" but no further. After that I'll just keep it stock or spend the $$$ on a 4" lift.

I would call the wheel manufacturer but neither one has a # listed.

I am about ready to give up. I just wish I had access to there inventory so I could just try different wheel combos myself.

As I understand it, yes you are correct. However, the Tbar has increasing resistance during that incremental compression space, so I'm not sure the rubbing is so likely as you inferred.

Beyond the up/down travel range of the NBS suspension, there's yet another conflict area. Actual interference points are notably shifted by placement of the wheel between the fender and the sway bar ... ergo, offset/backspace becomes critical.

Looking down from the top, my tire is a 33x12 rectangle. BUT, the hypotenuse of that rectangle is 35+ inches from "inside front shoulder" to "outside rear shoulder". As that rectangle swings on the steering axis, it's that LONGER 35-inch DIMENSION that's prone to touch the NBS rocker panel ... but only at full lock ... and only in reverse, when compression isn't in play. Go Figure!
(... somewhat over-simplified for clarity, but that's what's happening.)

Reducing backspace widens the front track;
and moves the tire outboard;
and exposes that nice stripe of beefy tread;
and accelerates timing of contact at that pinch point (for the NBS).Reality is, with only 1.5" on the Tbars, my 33s don't contact anywhere else. The 305/55x20 was the only choice for the E-rated Pirelli that I wanted. Since I also wanted the truck as low as possible, Nick didn't switch me to Cognito UCAs. Rather, he just barely leveled with the factory Tbars, added the Cognito braces, and sized the Bilsteins to fit. Garage Notes here. (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/garage.php?do=view&g=17182)
Nor-Cal Nick knew exactly what he was talking about. :rockit:
I like what you had in the garage notes. That helps a lot, thanks. I'm still waiting to wear out my stock tires. I'm going from my stock 265/70/17 to 285/70/17's (stock wheels) and I can see by your photos where they are likley to hit. I think I may do some bending of the sheet metal there prior to the tires getting installed. Thanks again.

I am about ready to give up. I just wish I had access to there inventory so I could just try different wheel combos myself.


You are only in Sac. Ca. area right?

Your not to far from us. I am slammed on the phones today but if you would like us to do the install let me know.


Nor-Cal Nick

learningdiesel . . .
Choose a better wheel/tire shop.
(editing) Whoa~!! Nick wd be perfect~!!

Duratime . . .
Don't hammer on anything until they mount your tires and put it back on the ground~!!
Seems to me your 285/70x17 (11.2 x 32.7) will fit perfectly at 1.5" lift.

Thanks hookdOnDmax, I'll take your advise.

Learningdiesel, did you look at the tire FAQ sticking in the tire and wheel section? It may help.