I lost all my guages this morning. This is what I know:
The fuse for the dash blew. It reads 12.21v and -.668 ohms at the fuse terminal. It stays the same with the OPS and CTS dash sensor unplugged. I pulled the dash apart and have the guage pod removed and it still blows the fuse. The pink with black stripe wire from the fuse has melted somewhat and seems to be taking the heat of the short.

Any help appreciated.

QM I'm not sure if this will help but seeings your dash is apart... When i pulled my heater switch box & radio assembly out the wires behind it were extremely crunched up from factory, a couple of the wires were pinched so that the wire itself was protruding from the casing, i had no shorts but could see it happening. I just repositioned the wires and put it back to gether as all i was doing was replacing a heater fan switch.

I'm off with my new GPS toy and computer to check my speedo and get some elevations of the hill i pulled the other day, maybe one of the brains here can figure out the grade if i give them the elevations top and bottom and the distance pulled. Back in a bit.

That's what I'm thinking. The wire is grounded between the fuse and dash and frying the fuse. Those wire don't care to budge from where they are and I'm not sure if drilling out the factory rivets holding the back of the dash will gain me any slack.

Yeah it was pretty tight back there, maybe heating the wires up with a blow dryer would warm them enough to move them easier, just a thought.

I pretty much confirmed a grounded wire. I get .002 ohms off that burt wire back to ground and .667ohms or near that on other fuses. I've been working those wires and gotten then detached some.

Do you have a listing of what that fuse feeds? Just wondering if you could cut some time by going down the punch list of all the items that it might be before goin' googly eyed wire by wire. Everytime I do that, it's like balancing my checkbook. . . i fix one 15 cent mistake, then I'm a dollar off somewhere else, go figure.

Yes,
That happens here too. I was cutting the wrap back to see where it goes and after the fuse, the pink with blck stripe becomes three/ or four pink with black stripe wires. Three of them go to the guage pod. I haven't gotten far enough to say where it all goes and my manual shows all the
ecm wires but not much else. I'm going to peel it back more looking for where it's grounded, worst case I'll run new wires between the fuse and guage pod.

I figured it out.This first pic is the wire I melted going into the harness. It is clamped and sodered along with the ends of eight pink with blk stripe wires, four going up the harness to the guage pod four going down. only one was grounded but I had to cut them apart to test that.

The grounded wire was the wire that triggers the glowplug relay. I sodered a new wire between the GP connector and the others back together with a new lead off the fuse block. Now what to do to make the most of the dash being out?I rerouted the boost and pyro wire into the dash area.

Not much room for guages but I just cut a hole right through the plexi sheild in front of the gauge pod, fraglile like sugar glass and another in the black shroud for the wires and such.
I'm switching the light to green, its right next to the low coolant light and a similiar color.

When I got it all back together the siren for the lights on key off wouldn't quit so I unplugged it. I took it 40 miles for groceries and I like it(never wired the bulb in before) except the color issue, and the truck works yet again!

Why is she running so hot, QM? Were you running over rice grinders in the grocery store parking lot or something?

That's with the key off, lights on for the pic only. M CTS always goes up when it's off.

I didn't get the pyro in, it was 600*F as the truck was plenty warm from driving.

45 MPH, 3300 rpm, in neutral with 16 psi boost. What are ya doin man...:D

I have to move the cable for the indicator over a bit, twice today I put it in D where it indicated OD and didn't notice till I got on the freeway, so N is OD. That was the second picture where I was at the top of a shift to third gear, this is a couple seconds and 15 MPH before.

Just fooling with you. That oil pressure does look a little low though.

It read 40 psi with the last OPS then when I put this one in new I thought I lost oil pressure, at least on the gauge.

One more.

Would appear you have it pinned there and holding 20 psi? Mine won't hold 20, just spike to it and then settle around 16-17 untill i let off, but thats just with the stock vacuum set-up which is another mod that needs some attention.

My oil pressure hovers right around 20 psi as well, so it looks fine to me.

NEVER MIND! MY BAD!):h

Would appear you have it pinned there and holding 20 psi? Mine won't hold 20, just spike to it and then settle around 16-17 untill i let off, but thats just with the stock vacuum set-up which is another mod that needs some attention.
Nope i was talking about oil pressure... mine hangs pretty steady around 40 psi (275 Kpa)

What i goof i am, i just re-read that... Oops.

Your right i was talking boost :confused: ... DOH!

I think my tranny's slipping to the higher RPM and Boost. I drove another truck today that was much quicker 0-60 but only touched 15 psi then dropped. I picked up a 4L80E today. I'm going to learn to rebuild them by doing it. LOL I'm going to buy a service manual and the HD clutch packs, valves, manual tcc switch, ect. As far as I know it's a working transmission I'm going to build and a 2WD so I can run a gear splitter and divorced tranny for 16 forward and 4 R gears!