Does anyone have a picture, or a block with which a picture can be taken, of the valley drain area of a 599 block?

Thanks!

Does anyone have a picture, or a block with which a picture can be taken, of the valley drain area of a 599 block?

Thanks!

here is my engine:D the hole is right in the back and then goes through the tube shown and exits out the side.

here is my engine:D the hole is right in the back and then goes through the tube shown and exits out the side.

Thanks CTDP, I remember that one from a previous PM. I am having a problem with a solid "miss" in my engine and am trying to determine the root cause. If could get a similar picture of a 599 block, I could more easily determine (if it leads to that conclusion) if I rebuild existing or go with a reman...

Thanks again,

599 block valley drain, you owe me one, it's damn cold in the garage. hehehe
Ted

599 block valley drain, you owe me one, it's damn cold in the garage. hehehe
Ted

Debt duly noted. Thanks for the pics! I think that this confirms that I pretty much have the newer GEP block currently in my truck since my engine has the "side" valley drain as shown in CTDP's picture. At 216,000 miles, I am not sure when it was installed but I think that they installed a short block and re-used the heads and/or injection system.

The truck has recently had intermittent bouts of experiencing a BAD miss in at least one cylinder. I believe that it was/is a problem with an injector (or possible pump since I have OBDI and no filter harness), since the miss would set-in and until recently could be resolved by keying off then restarting. On Monday of this week, the miss set-in while driving down the road and could not be resolved through any means. While limping back home, I noted higher EGT's and a light blue haze out the tailpipe. The haze, I am assuming, is unburnt fuel. When I finally got home, I let it idle and ran to the back to smell the exhaust. It definitely did not smell like oil and smelled of fuel. I then went to the front, opened the hood, and removed the oil fill cap. There was no notable blow-by, which is the same that I had when I bought the truck.

Since I have no idea how many miles are on the injectors, I will replace them first (since they CAN be re-used with a rebuild). If this does not fix the miss, I will then have a compression check ran and go from there.

Thanks again for the picture. Please let me know if I can ever repay the debt...

Regards,

Debt will be paid when you get your truck right. ;-) I soak this stuff up like a sponge for future reference. The 599 drain goes out the back like the first pics, but there was no drain tube on mine when it was pulled. Was that something that was added in later models?
Ted

Debt will be paid when you get your truck right. ;-) I soak this stuff up like a sponge for future reference. The 599 drain goes out the back like the first pics, but there was no drain tube on mine when it was pulled. Was that something that was added in later models?
Ted

In the redesign by AMG, they put the tube in the back so that it would redirect any oil or fuel out the side instead of on to the clutch if the truck was manual.

Does anyone have suggestions as to what might be causing this "dropped cylinder" miss in my truck. Initially, I was thinking that an injector might cause this, but as I read more about historical injector problems I just don't see any records of this type of failure. At this point, I am starting to lean more toward a head problem like a sticking valve, cracked valve, or horribly worn guide. Could a worn rocker arm guide button also cause this?

The interesting thing about this issue is that, at least when it first appeared, I could key-off then restart and the issue would go away. Also at this point, I have not checked for codes. I guess that should be the next step (this evening). Then maybe pulling the valve covers is in order?

All thoughts about this are appreciated...

Regards,

You might be on the right track thinking a sticking valve. Rocker buttons could cause this. Broke valve spring too. When I had a broke intake valve, it ran good 98% of the time. Restart usually corrected it. That was a real head scratcher. Exhaust valve was easier to figure out when it broke. Had a steady smoke screen following me on that one. With the intake I had a compression thumping going on that you can hear in the air cleaner. With both broke springs I ran the engine without the upper intake and used the hose in my ear method to determine which cylinder was suspect.
I bet you find 90s codes for cylinder imbalance.
Ted

..Broke valve spring too. When I had a broke intake valve, it ran good 98% of the time. Restart usually corrected it. That was a real head scratcher... With the intake I had a compression thumping going on that you can hear in the air cleaner...
Ted

This describes what I have to a "T". I think that I may need to pull the valve covers...

Thanks!

I re-read my post, looks like I said broke valve. oops, meant spring. I got a feeling you figured that though. btw, first broke spring was about 160,000 miles.
Ted

For anyone interested, at the attached link there is a picture of my "side-mount" valley drain, which (I believe) indicates the engine in my truck is composed of the AMG block.

Find picture here... (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=130347)

Regards,