I filled up yesterday evening. Last night, temp dropped to 9 degrees F.

This morning, engine light came on and truck will barely make it up a hill. Beyond 2K in gear, it shutters and won't go. It'll wind to the moon in park.

Fuel filter has less than 1K miles on it. Does this sound like gelling and will it remedy itself as today warms? Will the light go away?

Sounds like gelling and may remedy itself but you should use a good additive. Can't tell where you are to see how warm it will get.

Nashville TN where it's now 17 and today's high is 36.

you are jelled up the service engine light is a low rail pressure code i would put some treatment in it and but a new won on it then it will come out of it

It very well could have gelled here last night. B20 with no Power Service or anything added?

i would say gel for sure, b20 tends to gel at higher temps to begin with, and no additives? i would say trouble. change the filter and run some good additves until your system is cleared out, if you really want the check engine light off pull your battery cables or the ecm fuse or to to a buddy with a scan tool and he can turn it off., i would try to stay away from b20 for the cold months or at least run a good additive if your gonna use it.


just my .02

10x on the B20 causing you to gel. You will have to get some additive specifically for Bio and use a LOT of it. Also, you will probably have to get the whole truck up to 60-70F for 8-12 hours to un-gel completely - even with additives.

jb

18 here last night (just south of Chattanooga). B20 + Stanadyne, no gellin. Started right up at 6AM.

I didn't add anything. The Daily's on Fessler's has a 5,000 gallon B20 tank that they added 5 gallons of anti-gel to. They add the same 5 gallons to the 8,000 D2 tanks when they receive.

that dosent seem like hardly enough... i would always ad my own especially when using b20 in the cold weather! i know diesel 911 uses 32 ounce for 30 gallon.. you to the math on that and your gonna come up with alot more then 5 gallons. like i said earlier i would try to avoid b20 in the winter months if you can and if you must use it make sure you have plenty of additive in your tank. as far as getting your truck back to normal. If you have a buddy with a heated shed it will help and make sure you put some good aditive in the tank change your filter and put a little bit of additive in the new filter when you change it let it warm up for a while and then put a vent h ose on it and run it to see if it wont clear up! good luck! hope it clears up

I have 110 gallons of B20 on board, and no place to drain it to.

So, I've added two gallons of power service (white with red cap). And drove about 6 miles. At first it did fine and I was happy. Then about 2 miles into it the 2K rpm limit returned. Is that enough?

Now, I have it sitting in the garage in 75 degree temp with a reflective heat lamp aimed at the fuel filter. I'm trying to save that filter, as I just paid the dealer for it 1K miles ago. I'm not sure what the heat lamp will help, as the top of the filter housing is real warm to the touch after my drive.

I do have another filter standing by though.

well i would be careful with the heat lamp you dont melt some wires or something, the 75degree garage is nice let it warm up good and try to run it with a hose to the outside for the fumes, i know you dont want to change the filter, but you would be just as far ahead, i just got a filter for mine and it was like 15$ its not hard to change it your self, there is gonna be a sensor on the bottom you have to unscrew then the filter will come right off with a good grip or a pair of channel locks, fill the new filter up with about 75% diesel and 25% additive( 911 or someother kind) let it soak into the filter and top off, the screw it back on and turn your key on to let the fuel pressure build and the start it might chug a bit if it get a little air, worst case you might have to take the filter off and refill, you can try to leave it on but you will have more time into getting it back to normal, you are gonna have to run it to get the additive upto the filter. good luck i hope this helps

gelled....put it in the garage for a while

Your gelled plain and simple.

Park it in a garage where its at least 50* over night. In the morning it wil run fine.

Additives help, however ther currently is no anti gel formula for Biodiesel. Unless they just came out with it and I am not aware.

You are running B20 which is 20% Bio 80% #2.

Up nort we dont even try using Bio in the winter but instead all diesel is blended 25% #1 and 75% #2 you can even get some stuff thats half and half.


If your dead set on using bio I suggest installing a tank heater and a filter blanket heater.


If you ever have an emergency gelling issue, make sure you get the emergency stuff not plain old antigel.


Basically once its gelled all you need is time and lots of it.

Fuel filters arent that expensive either so dont break your back trying to save it.

Just had the exact same thing happen.

Except I was running regular fuel with a ton of FPPF. Still gelled up.

A little meltdown, new filters, back to new!!!!

I have 110 gallons of B20 on board, and no place to drain it to.

So, I've added two gallons of power service (white with red cap). And drove about 6 miles. At first it did fine and I was happy. Then about 2 miles into it the 2K rpm limit returned. Is that enough?

Now, I have it sitting in the garage in 75 degree temp with a reflective heat lamp aimed at the fuel filter. I'm trying to save that filter, as I just paid the dealer for it 1K miles ago. I'm not sure what the heat lamp will help, as the top of the filter housing is real warm to the touch after my drive.

I do have another filter standing by though.


You need to go to a truck stop and get some real additive. The PS is pretty much BS when it comes to anti-gel. It stuck me on the side of the road 3 times last year. (Thanks BS PS!) I switched to Howes Diesel Treat. You should get 2-3 of the qt containers of Howes and add that.

There is some product out for Bio, but I don't know if it will work with B20. Bio gells differently from petroleum fuel.

Try google search and see what you can find.

jb

you can use a regular diesel additive with bio blends. But as Im aware there isnt a TRUE purpose built biodiesel antigel.

THe chemists havnt been able to crack that mystery yet.

Thanks to everyone who helped. Whether it was the garage heat, the heat lamp (which I removed after an hour as it warmed things up more than I was comfortable with) or the 2 gallons of PS....This morning everything runs fine and the check engine light went out on it's own, but I don't know why...

Your CEL will most likely come back on. Even though its not on now the code is still there which will trigger it down the road.

If you have a way to clear it do so. Otherwise a local autoparts store can usually do it.

you can pull the fuse to the ecm that will normally clear it, auto zone has scaners to do so as well

Which dang fuse is it? I pulled two under the hood thinking one of those might be it. Neither turned it off.

if you go under the hood driver side, there will be a black box right by thge battery ( just in front) with a lightning bolt on it, it you open it, and look at the cover, it will tell you what all the fuses are, it will either be ecm or pcm i forget just what one it was but i know it was near to the left hand edge ( to the front of the motor) ab out a row or 2 up from the bottom .. hope that was a help

The light is probably telling you that the vacuum is too high on the fuel. Caused by clogged filter (gel).

The computer will turn the light back on if it sees high vacuum.

jb

hey artic, where did you get a fuel filter for $15?!!! i cant find em cheeper for $40 around here!

Ken