I tried a search and found a scattering of info, but hope someone has a single source "Normal" or "Range" of what the various numerical values in the spectrochemical analysis of "Oil Analyzers" testing actually mean. I look for an interpretive guide.

As an example: -15W- 40 synthetic oil - "iron: 11 ppm, chromium: 0, lead: 9, copper: 55, tin: 3, aluminum: 6, nickel: 0"

"Silicon: 22, Boron: 1, sodium: 0, magnesium: 23, calcium: 3480, barium: 0, phosphorus: 1401, zinc: 1540, molybenum: 129, titanium: 0, vanadium: 0 Potassium: 0"

"TBN: 7.51"

"Soot Solids: 0.10"

I screwed up and ran water thru a very dusty aquarium type tubing WalMart right off the shelves "Oil Pumping Device", which was like a blood pressure test hand squeeze pump with tubing at both ends. I tried to mouth blow it dry, but evidently failed, as the sample came back with water contamination and there is not now, nor has there been, any signs of water on my dipstick.

So, these numbers may be affected by that stupidity on my part. I can retest with a proper drain and plan to install the Fumoto valve this go round so future tests will be easier and cleaner. I still hope someone has an interpretive guide so that these numbers will "make sense" and help me and others decide how to proceed in oil decisions.

BTW: DO NOT BUY THE WALMART PUMP: besides the filthy tubing, it does NOT work well, and makes a mess.

Here is this brochure put out by OA:
http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g2047.pdf

Thanks Heath. I am hoping for something more specific to our trucks, but if this is all that's available, then at least it is more than I had.

Do you have an opinion as to what the values on my test mean? Assuming that I am correct in figuring that I let water from cleaning the tubing contaminate the test are the figures at all helpful, or should I just try again with a proper sampling method?

BTW: the Amsoil pump at least looks to be FAR & AWAY better than the one available at the"Chinese Embassy" (Walmart) that I should not have tried.

As an example: -15W- 40 synthetic oil - "iron: 11 ppm, chromium: 0, lead: 9, copper: 55, tin: 3, aluminum: 6, nickel: 0"

"Silicon: 22, Boron: 1, sodium: 0, magnesium: 23, calcium: 3480, barium: 0, phosphorus: 1401, zinc: 1540, molybenum: 129, titanium: 0, vanadium: 0 Potassium: 0"

"TBN: 7.51"

"Soot Solids: 0.10"

I screwed up and ran water thru a very dusty aquarium type tubing WalMart right off the shelves "Oil Pumping Device", which was like a blood pressure test hand squeeze pump with tubing at both ends. I tried to mouth blow it dry, but evidently failed, as the sample came back with water contamination and there is not now, nor has there been, any signs of water on my dipstick.



I wouldn't put a lot of faith in the 22 silicon result since it's known the sampling tube was full of dust. Might want to check the intake clamps anyway just to make sure they're snug. The other numbers look good. The copper @ 55 is typical of the DMax.

I think I'd not put much faith in this test, other than the TBN. Your wear metals really mean nothing as you didn't tell us how many miles are on the truck, or how many are on the oil sample. Being a 2007 vehicle, I suspect it can't be too many total miles. The higher readings on some of your wear metals are directly attributed to the "break in" of your Dmax; copper is always high - sometimes as long as 20k miles before it comes down to a level where it settles.

I know it sounds like a waste, but I'd just chalk this up to "oops" and not do it that way again. The Fumoto is a great idea, though.

Agree, copper is high early. Silicon is something to keep an eye on. Ther is talk, maybe you've seen it, of the resonators having a small leak. Not sure how widespread this is or what year models it may be affecting, but just put it on the backburner in case.

Thanks, I will check the resonator clamps, as I read Spicer's report, and now have even better reason to take care there.

What IS a "good" TBN?

This oil had about 13,050 miles on it, and I know that is higher than many would think prudent, but I am using Amsoil EAO 52 filter and 15W-40 synthetic and was curious to see how the oil would do with this filter that is so well thought of. Amsoil claims 15,000 is likely (with their synthetic), and maybe even more ectended drain intervals. My truck had about 25,000 miles at the botched oil sampling test.

I have another EAO 52 (thanks to Heath) and will change oil this weekend. I am toying with the idea of capturing some in the draining process and trying the test again (another $25ish). Good Idea? Or should I wait and do a test next time? I suppose it would clear up whether there is water in the oil, but I am pretty sure I would be seeing whitish or grayish streaks on the dipstick if that were true.

Opinions? Is this oil analysis good enough that I COULD (I won't) leave it in, change the filter and top up with fresh oil?

Thanks for any help here.

leave it in till 18,000 and see where the numbers are..some guys leave that synth. in longer than that...

You really should change the oil on a new rig at about 1000 miles and again at about 300 miles. I would use dino oil for this so as not to waste my money. Synthetic is great oil, but there is no advantage to a synthetic when using it to break in an engine.

The purpose of this "flushing" of a new engine is to flush out the remnants from manufacturing, including sand (silica) from the casting process. Your silica is high. May be from a dirty tube, but typical of a new engine also. Silica is also an indicator of a leaking air intake system or a poor air filter. Stick with the stock air filter, there is no benefit to aftermarkets and they will let in more dirt. Fill us in on the miles on the truck and the miles on the oil. SPICER

From previous post: "This oil had about 13,050 miles on it, and I know that is higher than many would think prudent, but I am using Amsoil EAO 52 filter and 15W-40 synthetic and was curious to see how the oil would do with this filter that is so well thought of. Amsoil claims 15,000 is likely (with their synthetic), and maybe even more extended drain intervals. My truck had about 25,000 miles at the botched oil sampling test."

I had the dealer change oil at 500 miles (Dino 15 W-40) and again at 3,000 miles (to 15W-40 Royal Purple Synthetic and they used a Quaker State filter). Then I changed it again at 12,250 miles with Amsoil EAO 52 filter and RP 15W-40 synthetic (BTW: I still have that oil in a big plastic container - would an oil analysis on it be of any real worth?) Now I am at 25,000 miles odometer reading.

Since I truly do value your opinion (and also appreciate what others have said), what do you have to say about this?

Thanks,