I've got a 02 D/A Silverado which never gets really warm with the heater on. I had an 86 350 which would roast you out. I'm running a winter front from Fia that snaps on the grill, which also has a bug screen that you snap on for summer. Do any of you guy's have the same problem or is it that this turkey just can't do any better!!!!!!!!!!!Thanks Jim

Took my '03 Sierra in for the same complaint, dealer ordered two new thermostats. They've just come in, so haven't had them installed yet, but a guy standing at the service counter when I was there said he had the new thermos installed, and it helped quite a bit. We'll see.

Diesels dont make heat unless they are being worked.

Put on an extra coat, because the dealer wont solve this problem.

Diesels dont make heat unless they are being worked.

Put on an extra coat, because the dealer wont solve this problem.
:confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:

Mine gets plenty toasty without the winter cover down to about 20 degrees. Below 20 degrees the winter cover is needed to make it toasty. I use the factory grill cover only, no bumber cover. Works great.

Same as towin43. Use the covers, and it should be plenty warm. It takes a little longer than my gasser to warm up, but once warm, it heats very well.

Diesels are a heat powered engine (compression ignition) and run on unthrottled cold air through the intake. Combine that with 2x the oil a gasser has, 2x the trans sump capacity, and 1.5 times more coolant to warm up it does take a diesel longer to build enough heat to warm these fluids up.
As an experiment on a cold day, start your truck up, turn fan on high and heat controls to vent. Guess what, in 1/2 hour idle, no heat! The cold air you are sucking in thru the climate control across the heater core is enough to prevent your diesel from EVER reaching temperature under idle conditions.
Next, on a cold day leave heater controls in off position, and then after 1/2 hour check the engine temperature.... you will have heat.

My 2002 is a little slower than a gasser to warm up but has more than enough heat
at any outside temperature. Have to turn it down. Don't use a front.

I use both covers provided, and don't have a problem. It looks quite stealthy with the bumper cover on. Screw the license plate.

When I plug mine in, I get heat almost instantly even when it's 4 degrees outside. When I don't plug it in, I let it idle (not high idle) for 10 minutes and I have heat. I don't have a winter cover. Also, I have a half mile uphill driveway and we got 11 inches of snow the other day. The Dmax went up the hill like it was a clear sunny day. I love this truck!!

Mine produces fairly reasonable heat from the dash vents, but the floor vents are really miserable, never adaquate.

Also notice a strange behavior, when the vent control is straight up for floor discharge, the outside air vent is open. Must turn the control a bit toward mixed dash and floor to be able to go to Recirculate. Does anyone else have this behavior?

bob_duramax That's the way mine feels but I'm not sure about the outside air vent being open. I'll have to look at that and see. In the meantime, Thanks all for you info.
I'll also look into the thermostat as at highway speeds it sure isn't overpowered for heat output! Thanks all again, Jimjmk

Mine produces fairly reasonable heat from the dash vents, but the floor vents are really miserable, never adaquate.

Also notice a strange behavior, when the vent control is straight up for floor discharge, the outside air vent is open. Must turn the control a bit toward mixed dash and floor to be able to go to Recirculate. Does anyone else have this behavior?
Yes, supposed to be that way. Chk your manual closely. Don't ask why, only the design engr knows. Noticed this peculiarity while visiting kin in Boerne TX ~ rushed down to the nearist dealer who pointed out that its nermal ~ go figure.

I've got a 02 D/A Silverado which never gets really warm with the heater on. I had an 86 350 which would roast you out. I'm running a winter front from Fia that snaps on the grill, which also has a bug screen that you snap on for summer. Do any of you guy's have the same problem or is it that this turkey just can't do any better!!!!!!!!!!!Thanks Jim
I live in alaska and I don't have any complaints here. I have a gmc. I just use the grille cover and installed the high idle kit. Granted after running for 25 mins or so, it isn't roasting hot, but I can live with it. I drive a couple of miles home on base and it is pretty warm by the time I get home. Also, I don't expect it to get fully hot on the way home at -30 F either. That's why I had heated seats installed. Just another note though. I owned a 02 GMC gasser and that heater would plain roast you out of it even without a grille cover. I rolled that truck and had to settle for a 01 silverado. That heater sucked! Both trucks had the same engine, the only difference was the silverado was fully loaded with leather. The GMC had cloth seats. In my experience, the GMCs have had the better heater. Don't know why just what I have noted.

OB

Mine produces fairly reasonable heat from the dash vents, but the floor vents are really miserable, never adaquate.

Also notice a strange behavior, when the vent control is straight up for floor discharge, the outside air vent is open. Must turn the control a bit toward mixed dash and floor to be able to go to Recirculate. Does anyone else have this behavior?
NOt only will you notice that the vent is open, you should notice that the volume of air supplier to your feet is less that if your vent was open (or closed) than if you have the airflow aimed at your chest. I comnplained to the local dealer and they provided a HVAC schematic and a guy that was their expert on the subject. What you see is what you get. Has to do with the need of removing the humidity in the cab and the retrictions of the designed equipment when the air is aimed at the feet.

I don't know how anyone can say there truck reaches proper operating temperatures without the two bras on the front of their truck in the winter months.
the tranny for a start doesnt even come close to operating temperature when towing (and there's nothing wrong with my truck) . The in cab temperature is fine, it gets hotter quicker with the bra and never overheat. In fact even when towing in winter engine temperature is always a little bit lower than summer towing.

these are just my observations.

drive safe

I run a lund cold front. no bumper bra. I get it warmed up pretty good. couple weeks ago we had -20 temps and with my '02 plugged in the temp was a little over 160 on start up. with in 2-4 miles I was running close to normal operating temp :rolleyes: . I do notice (after owning same rig for 2+ yrs) that it takes a long time for the tranny temp to come up and that just sux the fuel. warm weather(+40) I can usually get 16mpg or better. when that tranny is cold I am lucky to get 14mpg. Censored :mad: :confused:
I personnally would like the dang thing to put more (VOLUME)air out when in mix position without having the fan on full blast. all in all though I often wonder what took me so long to buy a real truck and I wouldn't trade it for anything (well maybe a 150 ac a little north of wasilla).... :ro) :ro) :ro)

Just my 2 cents worth.... stay safe and Git R Done !!!

My 01 gets plenty warm I have to turn the blower down and the heater control after 15 minutes of steady driving . About 2-3 weeks ago we had a cold snap was down to -4 degrees F and did not plug it in and it started fine and drove it real easy and had enough heat to turn down blower and temp control with in 20 minutes

Mine produces fairly reasonable heat from the dash vents, but the floor vents are really miserable, never adaquate.

Also notice a strange behavior, when the vent control is straight up for floor discharge, the outside air vent is open. Must turn the control a bit toward mixed dash and floor to be able to go to Recirculate. Does anyone else have this behavior?
Im glad I'm not the only one with this problem:ro)
I can understand the reciculate not working in the floor position ,But I can not for the life of me understand why I am still getting air out of the dash vents when I have the controll on full floor:confused: .
As a previous post states not a lot of air coming out at your feet. Now I understand. I would just like to have allI can get coming out at my feet and not burning my face and chest:eek:

Cosgr:D ve

ok guys i am going to chime in as this is a sore spot with me. ive had my d/a for 13 months and now have only 10,000 miles on it which tells you i dont drive it much but this is what i see. in the summer my temp gauge will only get to almost 210 when on the highway, when i get off and get to a stop sign or light my temp drops to the large mark between 160 and 210. if i am in town driving 45 to 55 mph i will never see 210, or close to it it will be closer to that large mark before it and when i stop a a sign or light it drops down to that mark. now in the winter in town it will never get above that larger mark between 160 and 210, and will actually drop to below that larger mark at stop lights. now on the highway in the winter (im in atlanta ga.) and im talking about 40 degree weather now, not even freezing, it will get to the 210 on gauge but it takes approx. 10 miles at 70 mph to get there, then the next time u look it is down on that big mark and starting to work its way up to the 210 mark. it is actually at that larger dash more than it is at the 210 mark. long story short our truck stays cool for most all our little trips. even towing a 14,000# 5ver in summer it would cool down to the larger mark while at a stop light. now i ask anyone is this normal. or should i just be happy it runs as cool as it does? dogboy

:)Got the answer after putting in two new thermostats. Now the Turkey heats like the old girl did!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!;):D