I just bought my LLY to replace the 7.3 PSD and have put on about 400 miles on it stock. I just installed my Predator on level one (45 hp) and had about 40 miles of driving on it when a Ford pulls up beside me at a stop light to get on the Interstate. Well, needless to say, I am trying to make myself feel good about switching back to the Duramax from the 7.3 PSD. After smoking him, I get about 1/2 mile down the road and she starts cuttin out. I only gave about 3/4 throttle, trying to not be too hard on it while breaking it in to the new tune.

I have read on here that the tranny limping problem is not usual unless you are running the 85 hp tune or higher. Is this something that I should expect to happen on the 40 hp tune, or should I have let it get used to new tune longer?

Cutting out does not sound like a limped tranny.

You might want to replace your fuel filter first, especially if its been a while.

A second thing to check would be the #2 and #7 injector harness. Do a search for "harness rub" for more information.

Any codes?

Previous owner running a big tune?

It doesn't sound like it's the trans.

I should have used different wording. It was not cutting out, it lost power and was surging and I slowed from 70 down to about 40 while still on the gas before I could get over to the side of the road. I then shut it off for a couple of minutes, fired it back up and continued on with no more problems.

I ran a code check and there were two: 1) 0401 EGR---I forgot to change the EGR scan delete when I down loaded the 40 hp tune since I am running the EGR Blocker Plate. This has been addressed.....The second code was 1093 (labeled Unknown on the Predator) Does anyone know what this code is all about?

The check engine light never came on.

As for the previous owner, he kept it completely stock, no tuner.

Thanks for the help!

If you limped the tranny you would know it for sure. It would clunk pretty hard once and then it would be stuck in a gear, usually 4th. And you can put it in whatever gear you want but all you'll be able to get it park or 4th.

It kinda sounds like a fuel problem if it was cutting out or holding back. Would it rev past 2000 rpm? BudTX is on the right track. First thing is to change the fuel filter to make sure there isn't a restriction. Then try it out again, if its still missing or cutting out then you might have an injector harness issue.

There should be some codes coming up if this is the case.

oops, left it open to long.

There is your problem right there, a 1093 code. Your losing too much rail pressure, and when you let off the throttle it spikes and pops your fuel pressure regulator valve, "FPRV".

It's a simple fix. Buy a PPE race valve for 40 bucks, or a shim kit for 10 bucks. Or just get someone to tell you the approxiomate size of the washers in the shim kit and do it yourself. Its real easy, and despite what everyone says and the hype of getting the valve out, mine came out nice and easy. It was the glow plug controller that chapped my ass.

Do a search on Shim kit or shim mod and you'll get all the info you need.

Might try the filter first, it will cause a 1093. I wouldn't think the baby tune would pop a 1093, unless the previous owner ran something big. After I popped mine a few times, if would go on smaller tunes, but I was throwing them with a big efi live tune on my new tranny.

Good luck..

Ya, thats a good point. Change the filter first, if its still doing it after then your in the market for a shim

Definately change your fuel filter. More than likely it caused your 1093. It's a good idea to carry a spare filter and water in fuel sensor. One bad batch of fuel can plug a filter and I had the water in fuel sensor break in the shop and they didn't have one in stock so I was doa for the weekend.

Good luck.

I will be picking up a couple of fuel filters tomorrow.

I have been trying to decide if I want to do the PPE Race valve or the shim kit: Does anyone have the website for PPE, I have only been able to find dealers, but no specifics about the valve. I would still like the valve to be functional if necessary. Is this even possible or is it 1093 or damage if the pressure gets too high?

Thanks.

I will be picking up a couple of fuel filters tomorrow.

I have been trying to decide if I want to do the PPE Race valve or the shim kit: Does anyone have the website for PPE, I have only been able to find dealers, but no specifics about the valve. I would still like the valve to be functional if necessary. Is this even possible or is it 1093 or damage if the pressure gets too high?

Thanks.

pacificp.com

I will be picking up a couple of fuel filters tomorrow.

I have been trying to decide if I want to do the PPE Race valve or the shim kit: Does anyone have the website for PPE, I have only been able to find dealers, but no specifics about the valve. I would still like the valve to be functional if necessary. Is this even possible or is it 1093 or damage if the pressure gets too high?

Thanks.

it works the same just doesnt open at as low of pressure wont cause any damage. but on 45hp change your filter i run 70 at all times.

I will be picking up a couple of fuel filters tomorrow.

I have been trying to decide if I want to do the PPE Race valve or the shim kit: Does anyone have the website for PPE, I have only been able to find dealers, but no specifics about the valve. I would still like the valve to be functional if necessary. Is this even possible or is it 1093 or damage if the pressure gets too high?

Thanks.

I have a ppe valve in mine, mainly because my fprv was tightened by the hand of god and it was mangled with it finally came out. Difference is that the shim in theory would release the pressure if there was a huge spike, whereas the ppe valve would not. I have had no issues with my ppe valve.

I honestly think a fuel filter will fix you. I ran my predator on the 80 tune all the time and never had an issue.