So, after speaking with another member on here who I have had words with in the past, I hear he and his brother swaped the injectors on his LB7, and neither one of them have any diesel expirience. I also read where a couple of other members have done their squirters as well. So with that, I am believing this whole injector thing is starting to look ALOT easier than expected.

Alot of folks crindge at the waterpump, I thought it was easy.
Alot of folks crindge at the Transfer case, I thought it was easy.


Albeit time consuming, but easy none the less. and I know the injectors will be time consuming as well, but I bet it really is not that hard to do, some aspects of the job will be stumbling blocks, like the balancer bolt on the waterpump swap, or the snapring on the transfer case, or from what I have heard the lower valve cover half back bolt on the drivers side, tight on space.

So what I am asking is folks who have DONE the injector swap on a LB7 please chime in, weather you have done it once, or like Eric done MANY, what are the things to be prepared for, and special tools, and personal expiriences dealing with the swap.

I hope I got this worded right to get the effect some of us would like to see.

i have done MANY. the key is to not pop the injector cup. as for tools 12mm, 10mm, 8mm, 5mm allen wrench (swivel), 3/4 inch wrench, to get injector out of cup takes a special tool are also i have used a heel bar. i don't know ask me ? and i will answer them best i can. looks bad but its not at all especially if you did a water pump. i do the job in 6 hours. best time ever was 4 hours 26 min. very first time i did the job toke me 8 hours.

This is actually a good question that has been asked by Tolliwacker. Up to this point, for the vast majority of LB7 owners the injector replacement has been covered by GM. That situation is going to change quickly over the next couple of years as the 7yr/200K special policy begins to expire on the 2001 and 2002 trucks.

I have one question on "goodwrenchtech's" post: What happens if the injector cup does pop out? Can the injector cup be sealed back in place without removing the cylinder head?

i have done MANY. the key is to not pop the injector cup. as for tools 12mm, 10mm, 8mm, 5mm allen wrench (swivel), 3/4 inch wrench, to get injector out of cup takes a special tool are also i have used a heel bar. i don't know ask me ? and i will answer them best i can. looks bad but its not at all especially if you did a water pump. i do the job in 6 hours. best time ever was 4 hours 26 min. very first time i did the job toke me 8 hours.


You listed the allen wrench (swivel) please explain it, I have never seen a swivel allen wrench.

Also since it is important to not to pop the injector cup, why is it important not to pop it? I know you will have to reseal it, I was just thinking I would remove them and reseal them while I was at it.

Also, you mention heel bar, I have read where boondocker said that he used the tool and it broke, and he used a punch? or something like that, Which is a more user friendly tool, the heek bar?

I did a water pump with another member last year, it was our first, but we did have the flywheel tool, took us like 6 hours and that was with lunch.

I am just trying to get a good list/thread of information put together of this injector stuff since some of us are going to have to address it sometime in the future. There are other members I am awaiting to see chime in with info since they have done their injectors.

Please anyone with info and tip to make the job easier, and what to watch for like "Do not pry on the valve steem and keeper, it might cause it to fail in the future" and stuff like that.

Keep adding to it with usful info, and please keep the "I am just going to have a dealer do it" Stuff out of it.

a swivle allen wrench is just like a normal wrench, but at the end, there is a little notch if you will, all the way around it. it is almost like it has a ball at the end, but still has all the points. 6 i believe? very good at getting into tight spaces where you cant get a normal allen into.

Ken

Got ya, a "Ball end allen wrench"

Good topic Tolli. Having an encompassing post for all aspects of an LB7 injector replacement effort will be invaluable as time goes on. Even better if we don't have to wade through 50% more "take it to the dealer" or arguing whether it is worth one's own effort to do this type responses.

I suspect mine will fail after any hopes of warranty coverage has expired, so I'll do mine myself. Getting answers prior is helpful in that being elbow deep into the job is not when anyone wants to go running to the forum and hope people are on line to answer questions. Or to find we now have to go order/source a tool that will take days to arrive.

My specific question to this concerns the glow plug relevance to an injector change. Another recent post mentions glow plugs breaking off in the course of getting to the injectors. If so, what is the experienced persons advice? Spray around the glow plug with PB Blaster and wait 2 days before beginning the injector replacement?

Also, I keep reading about the "tool" for removing the injector from the cup. Anyone have a picture of this tool that shows how it is used?

Thanks,
Andy

Maybe one the techs on here could do a write up with pictures for the stickies in the DIY section?

Where would one go to buy the replacement injectors? Supposedly there is not an after market replacement yet. The dealer will bend you over for them.

Good topic Tolli. Having an encompassing post for all aspects of an LB7 injector replacement effort will be invaluable as time goes on. Even better if we don't have to wade through 50% more "take it to the dealer" or arguing whether it is worth one's own effort to do this type responses.

I suspect mine will fail after any hopes of warranty coverage has expired, so I'll do mine myself. Getting answers prior is helpful in that being elbow deep into the job is not when anyone wants to go running to the forum and hope people are on line to answer questions. Or to find we now have to go order/source a tool that will take days to arrive.

My specific question to this concerns the glow plug relevance to an injector change. Another recent post mentions glow plugs breaking off in the course of getting to the injectors. If so, what is the experienced persons advice? Spray around the glow plug with PB Blaster and wait 2 days before beginning the injector replacement?

Also, I keep reading about the "tool" for removing the injector from the cup. Anyone have a picture of this tool that shows how it is used?

Thanks,
Andy







Glow plugs are nowhere in the injector removal other than the drain coolant out of a cylinder IF the water was not drained, and a injector sleeve came loose allowing water into the cylinder. At least this is what I make of it.

But with more and more warranties going out, I anticipate doing any of my glowplugs, and I just hope I do not break one off!

I looked at my CA emissioned 2002 truck (like yours). The glow plug cable harness appears to be in the way of removing the valve covers. (Note: on the CA trucks there is an individual wire going to each glow plug instead of a bus architecture.) I believe there is another post where there was issue with getting the wires off the glow plugs on some trucks that have extensive corrosion. This has led to breaking the connection point off, which led to glow plug replacement, which led to not being able to get the glow plugs out of the head, which led to,,,,,,,,,,

This is what I am hoping your thread here will reveal. Most the work looks straight forward. Its the 10% of the steps that have the "gotcha's" in it that one learns from experience that I hope will be brought up.

ok if you do not drain the coolant and you pop a cup yes the cylinder will fill with coolant and if you do not get it out it could hydro lock the motor when trying to start it. no the glow plugs do not need to be removed to do an injector. if you do pop a cup there are two o-rings at the top that i would replace and the put red lock tite on the bottom of the cup were it meets the head and cylinder. make sure the cup is seated all the way as if you don't then you will have a coolant leak into that cylinder and you will be doing the jojb agin. some one covered the allen wrench and they were right on the money. if for some reason you do pull the glow plugs and one breaks off the yes you will have to remove the head. there are 3 different head gaskets that gm used for piston clearance. take the gasket to the stealer and they should be able to tell you which one you have.

"Yes, more than likely they broke when they tried to take the nut off the glow plug to remove the power wire from the glow plug and move it out of the way to get the valve covers off."

The above was copied from the post about twisted off glow plugs when the dealer tech was to replace the injectors. Am I just misinterpreting this incorrectly? I sure hope so cause this sounds like it's worst than an injector job.

Thanks,
Andy

here is the injector tool http://service.gm.com/servlets/RetrieveTif?pic=738986

here is the injector tool http://service.gm.com/servlets/RetrieveTif?pic=738986



The link will not work, or we do not have access to it.

OK, I see now about the Glowplugs, and this is good information, and like stated, the 10% stuff is the show stoppers!

soory about that i got a red x the first time i did it but this time i think i got it try agin and see let me know

Nope, says I am not authorized.

Could you cut and paste a picture?

i tried to do that but it would not let me sorry

do you have any more ? that i can help with or is that it. i am very sorry about the pic if you go down to the stealer and ask to see it i don't think they should have problem with that. the tool number is J 44639.

goodwrench, do you have any ideas on anything else to look for when the covers are off? IE Lifter adjustment, rust in/on fuel lines/ damaged parts? Anything else that a guy would be money ahead to do during the process like oil change/ thermostats?

I have seen a fair amount of concern about the high pressure fuel lines and making sure they don't leak after everything is back together. Any ideas on this?

I obtained a complete set of fuel lines brand new off of e-bay for 49 bucks, so I dropped for them since they were a pretty good deal. I do not have injector issues as of now, and I hope I never need to use this thread, but I am just wanting to put all the information and questions under one thread just in case, and also for other members who are over 200K and plan to do the injectors themselves. I thought of this after speaking with another member who did a set and said it really was not that hard.

See the injector tool at this link:

http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=9683

that the one and yes before putting the high pressure fuel lines back on make sure both ends are very clean and blow brake clean through them both ways. also when you install them tight is tight and to tight is broke. i have never broken one they need to be very tight. also when puttinf the 2 o-rings on the injectors make sure and put some oil on the o-rings to help it slide into the cup without rolling the ring and helps with putting the fuel lines on. CLEAN EVERYTHING. The only time i have set the valve adjustment is when i have done a head gasket or replaced a push rod. would not hurt to change the oil but that is up to yall.

removing both inner fender skirts make getting to things easier. you dont need the injector puller. use a air chisel punch, a worn or ground down one fits the best you dont want the tip to protude into the threads, then put a socket that fits the punch tight and a extension bar in the socket that gives you the leverage you need to pop them up. you put the punch tip in the bolt hole of the injector hold down bracket, then pull away from the injector and it comes up. sometimes they stick hard and some come right out with little effort. if you want to reseal the cups you will need the special tool to pull them out, they dont just come out and there is nothing to grab onto them with, I could get the j number if you want it, but in my opinion if they dont come out with the injector leave um alone. draining coolant is VERY important. and goodwrenchtech why would you call yourself a stealer, seems odd to me.

not all dealers are stealers it is just a term that used. also i have seen the bs that some places make the customers pay for when it is not needed . ie shop supplies for r&r on a radio. i think it is bs but what can you do nothing. Also i have seen some stealers charge customers for a filing fee. for what, the shop laber rate should cover that. just my .02 and yes i work for a gm dealer ship and i am a tech.

belive me I hate dealerships and hate GM even more but its how I make my money but hopefully will be changing that soon. and your right good point on some of the misc charges they have but bussiness is bussiness (I guess).

Come to think of it, I know my brother had his girlfriend take a bunch of pictures of his truck while we were doing the job. I told him to get one of the puller tool. I know he has them in his myspace thing, Ill see if he'll post some on here. Brings me to a question. Has anyone thats done the job, taken the engine out of the truck? The idea ran across our minds. One of the (lower if i remember right) vavle cover bolts on the drivers side was a pain to get to. I was up under the wheel well being the eyes while my brother was fishin around with the allen wrench. HERES what we did. We took one of those allen socket things, popped the bit out and just stuck the bit in the closed end of a wrench small enough to hold it. I reached up through the wheel well and put it right in place. My brother is a full time mechanic, but the only diesel experience he has is servicing 7.3's. The only Dmax experience we have was doing the pump rub on my truck. We went into the job with very little knowledge about the engine itsself and had the truck apart and the injectors out in 5 hours. I for one was skeptical about doing the job but my brother was all for it, now I see why. Like people have said, it's all pretty straight forward, just take your time and keep everything clean. Before we pulled the valve covers we blew the engine off with air, then blew all the fuel lines out and so on. We threw some clean shop rags over the heads at night when we were finished. It is however like people say, time comsuming. Well, as you see it took us 5 hours to have the truck apart and the injectors out (with the tool) on the first night. The 2nd night we put one side of injectors in but work was limited because I just got me PPE xcel. so we had to play with that all night right? The 3rd day I was at work when my brother put the truck back together himself in about 8 hours so, im not familiar with that half of the project. One more piece of advice. With each injector you get a copper colored washer that slides over the tip of the injector. But when it comes time to insert the injector into the head the washer obviously wants to fall off. I suggested putting some grease on the injector tip to hold the washer in place so thats what we did, but the fellow that let us borrow the tool said he just dropped the washer into the head and went from there. 3 weeks later the truck is running great. Knock on wood. Anyone with some mechanical knowledge should not have a problem with this job. If we worked on it all day the 2nd day we probably couldve had it running. But instead we started at 6pm then played with my truck. Like I said I didnt want to attempt the job but its really not that bad. I dont know why people make such a fuss over it who have never attempted it. I guess the price, which was in my opinion THE HARDEST part of the job. Loaning my brother 2200 bucks for the injectors. Im 21 years old, I like working on cars but dont have a TON of experience like im sure some of you guys do. If we can do it Im sure you guys can.

I have been waiting for you to chime in, I got the idea of this thread from our chat via PM.....

Add what you can, since I know you did a set, and the pictures would be NICE!

I called my brother tolli, and told him about this thread. Im hoping he'll add some info and get his girlfriend to get the pics on here. It'll be under my name 1LTREATR.

COOOOOOL will be good to have some pictures to go with this thread!

Also, If a tech could get some shots on the next injector job and want to include them, it would be nice!

Tolli,
You got two subjects mixed up when you quoted me earlier. I broke tools pulling the exhaust off to change a turbo, not the injectors.
The injector tool you don't need ($80) is pictured in my garage. I would just use a 1/2" or larger nut for a spacer on the air chiesel bit to keep the end out of the threads when you pry the injector out. Most of the other tools have been listed with the exception of the torque wrench and fuel line disconnect tools. I also use a stainless steel wire brush to clean the injector line flares. I find that shorter isn't always better for low clearance areas. My long Tee handle ball-driver allen wrenches make it easier to get some of the bolts out than a short bit would.
I purchase the injectors from a local shop cheaper than from the stealer. A few minutes on the phone (or on the web, if you have time to wait) can save you $100 per injector.
I can also confirm that it takes much longer the first time. I changed just the #5 injector 9 months ago in 9 hours. I changed the #4 a couple weeks ago in 7 hours. The driver's side (even's) take longer because there is more stuff in the way. It would only have added 30 mins to change all four in the same bank. It is worth the gamble to me to only change the failed injector instead of replacing all of them at once.
I would also recommed purchasing the Helms manual for the truck for the torque specs and other information to make sure you do it right the first time.

Tolli, if you get good at this I will bring mine in for a change of squirters, I will even buy ya some beer.

Driver side injectors


1. Drain coolant
2. Disconnect both batteries
3. go under truck, remove drivers rear glow plug 8mm nut and wire
4. remove drivers intercooler rubber tube, 2 clamps 7/16” nuts
5. disconnect 2 large harness connectors (squeaze rear of connector to
6. release lever)
7. Remove 2 5mm allen screws from bracket holding down other half of 2 large connectors move connectors away from bracket
8. remove bracket from top of thermostat housing (12mm bolt, also this is the only one that is a different lenght)
9. Remove 12mm bolt from coolant pipe going into thermostat housing
10. remove 2 12mm bolts from pipe bracket bolted to valve cover
11. pull pipe out, pull out from under a/c compressor hose, tuck in over by battery to hold out of way
12. disconnect Baro sensor, on large connector bracket, remove 3 12mm bolts from connector bracket
13. remove 10mm bolt from red battery junction block, above p/s pump
14. remove 8mm nut from front cylinder glow plug
15. remove 13mm nut from fuel line bracket
16. remove 12mm bolt from harness bracket
17. use quick disconnect tools on fuel lines
18. tuck fuel lines under master cylinder to hold out of way
19. remove 10mm bolt from fuel line bracket
20. remove 13mm nut from top post of glow plug control module, remove wire and pull large connectors and wire out of the way
21. remove 2 12mm nuts from glow plug controller
22. pull glowplug controller back out of the way, should have a fairly clear view of the valve cover now
23. remove 8mm bolts from injector retainers and remove retainers
24. 19mm, remove injector lines
25. remove pcv hose from valve cover
26. remove alot of 5mm allen bolts from top valve cover
27. use a prybar against a/c compressor bracket, there is a tab on the top side of the valve cover, pry against that to remove top cover. Cover will be hard to pry off.
28. remove 8 7mm injector harness nuts from injectors
29. remove 4 10mm injector harness hold down bolts
30. remove alot of 5mm allen bolts from lower valve cover
31. remove lower valve cover
32. remove 4 5mm allen allen banjo bolts from fuel return pipe
33. remove 12mm banjo bolt from fuel return rail
34. remove fuel return rail
35. remove 4 8mm injector hold down bolts
36. remove injectors, make sure all the copper washers come out with the injectors



Reverse for install.



Passanger side injectors

1. Remove air intake and box
2. Loosen 2 intercooler clamps 7/16” nut
3. Remove intercooler pipe from intake down to intercooler
4. Loosen , to the point its ready to come out, front 17mm fuel line bandjo bolt
5. Remove 3 14mm bolts from FICM
6. Carefully pull upper and lower FICM white spacers/washers/insulators off the FICM, they will not stay, they will fall off and most of the time fall someplace you cant see them
7. Remove 13mm bolt from coolant pipe below FICM
8. Remove 13mm nut from coolant pipe bracket on top of fuel filter housing
9. Remove 3 12mm bolts from fuel filter housing.
10. Remove rear fuel hose from fuel filter housing
11. Disconnect water in fuel sensor and fuel heater connectors
12. Remove fuel filter housing and FICM as a complete unit.
13. Remove bandjo bolt from FICM fuel line and gasket/washer from fuel line.
14. Remove 12mm bolt holding wire bracket to FICM bracket, this is the only bolt that is a different length on this side
15. Remove 12mm bolt from dipstick tube to FICM bracket
16. Remove 12mm bolts holding FICM bracket to valve cover
17. Remove 8mm nut from front glowplug
18. Remove 8mm injector retainer bolts
19. Remove injector retainers
20. Remove injector lines
The rest of this side goes just like the Drivers side from this point on. Hopefully I didn’t forget to much.
I suggest putting a lubricant on the thermostat housing seal when reassembling. I also put lubricant on the injector seals.
Don’t forget to put the radiator drain plug back in.
Remove 12mm nut in center front on the thermostat housing to bleed air while you fill the cooling system.

Tolli,
You got two subjects mixed up when you quoted me earlier. I broke tools pulling the exhaust off to change a turbo, not the injectors.
The injector tool you don't need ($80) is pictured in my garage. I would just use a 1/2" or larger nut for a spacer on the air chiesel bit to keep the end out of the threads when you pry the injector out. Most of the other tools have been listed with the exception of the torque wrench and fuel line disconnect tools. I also use a stainless steel wire brush to clean the injector line flares. I find that shorter isn't always better for low clearance areas. My long Tee handle ball-driver allen wrenches make it easier to get some of the bolts out than a short bit would.
I purchase the injectors from a local shop cheaper than from the stealer. A few minutes on the phone (or on the web, if you have time to wait) can save you $100 per injector.
I can also confirm that it takes much longer the first time. I changed just the #5 injector 9 months ago in 9 hours. I changed the #4 a couple weeks ago in 7 hours. The driver's side (even's) take longer because there is more stuff in the way. It would only have added 30 mins to change all four in the same bank. It is worth the gamble to me to only change the failed injector instead of replacing all of them at once.
I would also recommed purchasing the Helms manual for the truck for the torque specs and other information to make sure you do it right the first time.



I have done so much reading on here, I get alot mixed up, But I am glad you chimed in and clarified it. And to everyone who have contrubuted, THANK YOU, and the above post from Cobra, that is what we are looking for, now if we can get some pictures put with all of it.....

I know, can't have everything, but in time......


And NO Jones, I do not believe my sorry ass back could take to many injector jobs being bent over the fenders, I am now recovering from back surgury #3 and I am taking it easy for a looong time, only doing what I have to..........But I will drink beer if you stop by with some!

I have no idea why that last part changed the font and bolded... oh well. least its there

Cobra,

For the LB7's that have the EGR added for emissions, are there any additional steps that you can remember for that configuration?

There is a "cluster" of vacuum related switches, valves ect attached to the fuel filter assembly. Also, is the EGR cooler or hoses in the way? Not sure if you have seen one of these configurations.

Yup, good stuff there Cobra! Is Driver's side step 3 & 14 and Passenger side step 17 the "glow plug" risk that requires the removal of the head if experienced?

And do you know if it applies to all 2001 - 2004 LB7s or just specific ones (2001-2002?, 2002-2003?, 2003-2004?, only CA trucks?, etc?)?

Thanks,
Andy

Not sure on the CA trucks with the EGR, have not done any here (east coast)

this will work on all the 2001 to 2004 trucks, with the exception of CA emissions, not sure on those.

Yes, the removal of the glow plug nuts is where it could get ugly. If I have one that is rusted, I like to soak them in WD40 or simular product. Also may even use a micro torch and heat the nut up some.

Excellent. Actually, I think I may go soak my nuts (no pun intended here!) and keep them PB Blasted. hmmmm... wonder if that would be a logical move?

Andy

Cobra,

For the LB7's that have the EGR added for emissions, are there any additional steps that you can remember for that configuration?

There is a "cluster" of vacuum related switches, valves ect attached to the fuel filter assembly. Also, is the EGR cooler or hoses in the way? Not sure if you have seen one of these configurations.



Yes great question, especially since I have one of those trucks....
Maybe a west coast tech could shed some light on this, it really does not look that bad, just 3 solinoids, and the egr cooler to work around.....

Good idea Tolli, now I know where to look when it comes time. Thanks guys. It didn't look too awful difficult when I was watching the tech at the dealer do mine last year. Main thing is keeping things clean and cleaning your gasket sufaces well and using the right gasket sealer. IMHO

Sounds like fun. Anyone want to drop their truck off at my house so I can give it a go around?

Are they or can they sticky this thread?

Are they or can they sticky this thread?



If and when some picturs can go with the words, It would go great in the DIY section!

Cobra provided a good start with the "procedure" portion of the job. A "parts list" of components needs to be created also (special tools or supplies - such as any replacement seals needed to install the injector supply and return lines, injector puller, possibly the injector sleeve remover, valve cover sealer, etc.). Probably best to collect the information here in this thread and then create a "consolidated" DIY thread with all the information together.

That is the intention of this thread!

Here are the pics my brother has been bugging me to post. Like he said we were VERY careful when disassembling the engine. If your don't wrench for a living just take your time!!! Time dosen't matter (when working on your own vehicle!!!) I would rather spend more time ONE time than doing it fast TWO times!!!. If your not sure on wires/plugs MARK THEM. This was my first time working on a 6.6 and the wires going to the glow plug timer/relay (on the back of the drivers valve cover) were a bit confusing but I just marked them with a paint marker. And the upper valve covers are just installed with gray assembly adhesive (RTV) The bond is very good. You really have to pry (on the pry tab) Make sure everything is clean. Thats about the most important thing. Everyone I talked to that works at the stealer hates working on them. I was getting a bit worried after talking to the techs, but you can't be! Actually I think the only reason they don't like them is because there made by Isuzu. GM techs are used to working on GM not Isuze (NOT TO DISREPECT ANY GM TECHS) they would rather do a 3.4 intake gasket (so would I!) Than getting paid warranty time on a set of injectors. If you plan on doing them maybe think about getting all the rubber hoses from filter to the injection pump. They are all low pressure rubber hoses (6 I think) I ordered all of them and I plan on taking it back apart because they are starting to crack and getting soft. I will post part numbers when I pick the hoses up. I am located in Columbus, Ohio and willing to help with any questions people may have. I have a mac scan tool that will show live data.

I also want to thank my brother for the $2,200 he let me borrow....

CMB

Here are the pics my brother has been bugging me to post. Like he said we were VERY careful when disassembling the engine. If your don't wrench for a living just take your time!!! Time dosen't matter (when working on your own vehicle!!!) I would rather spend more time ONE time than doing it fast TWO times!!!. If your not sure on wires/plugs MARK THEM. This was my first time working on a 6.6 and the wires going to the glow plug timer/relay (on the back of the drivers valve cover) were a bit confusing but I just marked them with a paint marker. And the upper valve covers are just installed with gray assembly adhesive (RTV) The bond is very good. You really have to pry (on the pry tab) Make sure everything is clean. Thats about the most important thing. Everyone I talked to that works at the stealer hates working on them. I was getting a bit worried after talking to the techs, but you can't be! Actually I think the only reason they don't like them is because there made by Isuzu. GM techs are used to working on GM not Isuze (NOT TO DISREPECT ANY GM TECHS) they would rather do a 3.4 intake gasket (so would I!) Than getting paid warranty time on a set of injectors. If you plan on doing them maybe think about getting all the rubber hoses from filter to the injection pump. They are all low pressure rubber hoses (6 I think) I ordered all of them and I plan on taking it back apart because they are starting to crack and getting soft. I will post part numbers when I pick the hoses up. I am located in Columbus, Ohio and willing to help with any questions people may have. I have a mac scan tool that will show live data.

Did you really need to remove the AC compressor??? Or was that something done that you later realized was a costly overstep?

Andy

No you don't really have to remove the A/C compressor. But I hate working around items in the way (I probably took off a bunch of items that really don't need to be removed) Since I am a mechanic I have my own a/c equipment, and a 30 pound bottle of 134A cost $60.00 I fiqured what the heck. When it comes down to it I probably spent a extra 6 bucks. I think it was worth it, but everyone has their own way of doing things...

I have never seen a Durmax with the valve covers off. The picture looks like each rocker arm operates to valves at the same time. Can this be true?

Yes, one rocker arm opens two valves. And speaking of valves I should have found some adjustment specs while I had the thing apart becuase it sounds like one rocker arm on the drivers bank is making just a little noise. Just something to do latter!!!

okay for the cali guys, there is not much else than what cobra said. just need to mark each line to its mating port. and remove the solenoids. then the filter housing. not very hard other than marking and remembering the locations of the hoses. take pics if need be.

on a side note for cobra, you lucky dog. seems here in ct 90% of the 1 motors we see are cali. :D

another couple of tips, the bigeest thing is to remember clean clean clean. the valve covers need to be spotless of the old goop, so do the lower valve cover adapters. you don't want to be taking them off again. something i was taught early on is if you have a compressor to blow the areas to be taken apart before you do anything to clean any sand shit that may collect there. if no air go to a car wash and use a pressure washer. a little sand will go a long way in ruining a good thing.

be very cafeful with the ficm, it has rubber washers it is mounted to for jibration protection, they will fall out and they are not magnetic. they are 3 piece top bottom and a tube that is like a bushing between the top and bot.
also on the ficm be very careful with the connectors they have a ton of terminals dont bend them:D.

good luck to all. if you need help just ask. that is why were here.

Ct, Ca...Is there a difference besides the climate? :D

ca has better beaches and women:D other than that ..........no

No you don't really have to remove the A/C compressor. But I hate working around items in the way (I probably took off a bunch of items that really don't need to be removed) Since I am a mechanic I have my own a/c equipment, and a 30 pound bottle of 134A cost $60.00 I fiqured what the heck. When it comes down to it I probably spent a extra 6 bucks. I think it was worth it, but everyone has their own way of doing things...

Thanks. I suspected you had access to the AC reclaim/recharge equipment the rest of us don't. I agree they always seem to be in the way.

Andy

I havent reclaimed freon in any i have done just unbolt the compressor and lay it off to the side. the hoses are rubber they bend.

[quote=1LTREATR;2331048] I was getting a bit worried after talking to the techs, but you can't be! Actually I think the only reason they don't like them is because there made by Isuzu. GM techs are used to working on GM not Isuze (NOT TO DISREPECT ANY GM TECHS) they would rather do a 3.4 intake gasket (so would I!) Than getting paid warranty time on a set of injectors.

yeah who would want to do injectors that pay 8 when they take 10 or 12.
or do an intake that pays 6 and takes 2.

I used to lay the compressor off to the side, but find that really the only thing that it sort of hinders is taking the coolant pipe/hose out of the way, but its not like the rad hose isnt flexible.

Well, I don't know what's wrong with all the dealer techs not wanting to touch DMAX's. I think most of them are just inexperienced. Just drive around the dealer lot looking for new DMAX's. That should tell you how many that dealer sells and whether or not they are a large volume dealer. That would help me make a decisoin weather or not a dealer or tech is competent to do repairs. As far as the intakes, they are easy money only because every GM vehicle on the road has a leaking intake gasket. And I'll do warranty injectors all day long. I love working on them and enjoy the challenge some of them provide.:D

The biggest problem with the D-max is people don't understand them. Once you get by that, they are not bad to work on. I agree with Dr. Goodwrench. I don't mind working on them other than the fumes.
I read the entire thread and I don't want to repeat, but I work in CA, the easiest way to get the fuel filter assembly out of the way (right bank) is to remove the 3 bolts that hold the f/f housing to the valve cover, remove the top most vacuum line, and the line to the egr, disconnect the 4 wire connector to the two back injectors, remove the two fuel lines, one at the FICM, the other at the F/F housing. Disconnect the two lower connectors. (at the fuel filter) The whole assembly sits out of the way where the air cleaner was. Real easy. Good luck- hoop

Now,that I have a solution to my t-case problem coming,I'm thinking about this injector issue.Is there any improved injectors available?Any better ones?Or is there only
this one model for LB7 engines?And when they fail,you just have to buy same shit again?

Just waiting to smell the fuel

Well, I don't know what's wrong with all the dealer techs not wanting to touch DMAX's. are . As far as the intakes, they are easy money only because every GM vehicle on the road has a leaking intake gasket. And I'll do warranty injectors all day long. I love working on them and enjoy the challenge some of them provide.:D
you must not have a mortgage or kids to pay for. BTW are you the same drgoodwrench from the SI forum, just curious.

you must not have a mortgage or kids to pay for. BTW are you the same drgoodwrench from the SI forum, just curious.

Nope, no kids, but plenty of other bills. And yes same Dr. in SI...

Please, Let's keep this on track with the injector issue, I am not bashing, just trying to keep the post count down so it is easier to read through.

I just want to thank everyone for the input so far, but does anyone have pictures of the injector swap?

I appreciate what pictures have been submitted, but I know there has to be a tech out there right now with the covers off and doing an injector swap, please I ask just take a few pictures as you go along....

Here is a bad pic of a tool that saves a TON of time.

And that is a 3/8" or 1/4" Drive?

I just got a set of Long ball end metric allen set, just to add to the toolbox, since someone said the #6 long ball end would come in handy.

1/4" drive 5mm hex swivel head from snap-on.

And that is a 3/8" or 1/4" Drive?

I just got a set of Long ball end metric allen set, just to add to the toolbox, since someone said the #6 long ball end would come in handy.
Hey Tolli, holler when it comes time and I'll see if I can't come down and help ya so we both can figure this out and get some pics.

I Hope I never have to bother with it, BUT I will yell if that time ever comes!

I as well have done it, not that bad, just lots to take apart to get to. You might want to pick up a new set of high pressure lines off ebay, very handy to have. And do pick up the "kit" meaning the crush washers. I had one sleeve come out with an injector. Took a good bit to get the two apart, lost some coolant. No biggy. If you did the water pump, you can do the injectors. The back side of the drivers valve cover(s) aren't fun to get to, I actually did mine leaning on the tire from underneath to save my back.

tolli its easy just timi consomimg...



drain the coolant:D

I as well have done it, not that bad, just lots to take apart to get to. You might want to pick up a new set of high pressure lines off ebay, very handy to have. And do pick up the "kit" meaning the crush washers. I had one sleeve come out with an injector. Took a good bit to get the two apart, lost some coolant. No biggy. If you did the water pump, you can do the injectors. The back side of the drivers valve cover(s) aren't fun to get to, I actually did mine leaning on the tire from underneath to save my back.


I have a set of injector lines, and I will take my time. I will be cleaning everything twice if needed also.

I do not need to do any of this, and I hope I never have to, BUT I was just starting this to see if we could get alot of info under 1 thread for someone if they decided to give it a go.

Thanks for all the inputs, and I do believe draining the coolant is/should be step one, incase a sleeve comes loose, then you would not possibly break a glowplug off trying to get the water out of the cylinder.

All we need now is a real drain valve for the radiator. The cheap stock plug sucks.

leave the cap on the bottle while pulling out the plug, will keep it from shooting every where. then slowly loosen the cap to control how fast the coolant comes out and control the mess a little more.

leave the cap on the bottle while pulling out the plug, will keep it from shooting every where. then slowly loosen the cap to control how fast the coolant comes out and control the mess a little more.
Excellant tip, I will keep that one in mind.

leave the cap on the bottle while pulling out the plug, will keep it from shooting every where. then slowly loosen the cap to control how fast the coolant comes out and control the mess a little more.


thats how i drained mine, and it still did it. i layed kinda under the truck controlling the flow with my hand untill 10 min. later, it was drained. my arm and back were soaked. so now im not sure what to try. any other suggestions?

Ken

as long as there is no pressure on the system and the cap wasnt removed right before removing the drain, it should only shoot out for a brief moment and then go to a trickle.

its been quite a while, but thinkin back now, maybe it was a little warm. coulda had some pressure. good thing to remember for next time. thanks cobra

Ken

anytime


Tyler

When I drained my coolant I just knelt down beside the pass side tire, since I already knew by feel where the drain was. I would cut the wheel to the right, slide a 5 gallon bucket in under the bumper far enough back to catch the coolant and remove the plug. I also left the resi cap on to slow the flow. If you're just doing the injectors, you probably don't need to drain it all, you just need to get the level below the heads.

Those upper valve covers are a pain to get off because the rtv sealer holds them so well. What I did with the first one was I took my tire iron that comes with the truck and put one of the 12mm bolts on the valve cover through it so I could pry some pressure. I then had my brother tap the valve cover on the pry tab with a piece of wood and a hammer. When I did the drivers side, nobody was around. I did the same thing with the prybar, but this time I put a bungee around it and put the hooks on a hole in the hood by the hinge. I then used the wood and the hammer myself and it popped right off.

I believe the bolt that's a real pain that everyone is talking about is the allen head at the back by the firewall on the lower part of the valve cover. I was able to get an allen wrench in there with just enough swing to "crack" it loose. Then I used the ball end to loosen it enough to where I could get it with the tips of my fingers.

To get the injectors out, I used a 1/2" wide chisel on the back side and a screwdriver or punch (I used both at different times) on the keeper side. I slid the chisel in until it stopped, and I put the screwdriver between the edge of the head and the keeper. I pulled up on the chisel and pushed down on the screwdriver using the edge of the head as a fulcrum. I made sure I used equal force so it pulled up straight.

I had the heads out when I removed mine because I'm doing head gaskets, so it may be different in the truck but I don't see how.

Lets bring this back to the top! I think we have some very valuable info from many members.

Tony

Printed it off long ago incase it disapeared.

I am glad to see this opened back up.

Now the folks who have done the repair, show us what you have done, and Pictures would be very NICE!!!!!

i like this. because i am car sale owner.

--------------

ALBERAVONNE



Myspace promotion (http://www.esteembpo.com)

I've got fuel in the oil now on a 2001 LB7

I'm going to tackle the job on injector swap in the next few weeks, and after reading this thread and a few others on the job I am actually looking forward to saving the money the dealer wanted to do the job. Best price I have found so far on the parts is $165/ea without core charge.

I'll be taking a lot of pictures through the process and I'll share once I am done.

I've got fuel in the oil now on a 2001 LB7

I'm going to tackle the job on injector swap in the next few weeks, and after reading this thread and a few others on the job I am actually looking forward to saving the money the dealer wanted to do the job. Best price I have found so far on the parts is $165/ea without core charge.

I'll be taking a lot of pictures through the process and I'll share once I am done.


Be careful where you buy, and make sure they are reputable or you will be getting a set of used injectors with new tips or some crap like that.

Good luck with the job, sorry to hear you have to do it, but it is comforting to know there are folks who will help out with information if you get stuck while you do it!

Pictures and documentation of the course of action you takwe will be very valuable for others on here who may wish to tackle this job.

Be careful where you buy, and make sure they are reputable or you will be getting a set of used injectors with new tips or some crap like that.


Any recommendations as to who I should buy through? Best deal I found was here:

http://store.realdiesel.com/20du6lb7.html

$165 with no core charge if returned within 15 days. I emailed their customer service and they recommended the work be performed by a certified tech. I'm still not sold on paying someone to do something I feel I am capable of doing. Unless there are special tools, or equipment required that I can not rent at the local auto parts store, I'm up for the challenge. I've got a few friends that have offered help on the project (even if pointing and laughing at me is considered help) so we'll see how it goes.

Any recommendations as to who I should buy through? Best deal I found was here:

http://store.realdiesel.com/20du6lb7.html

$165 with no core charge if returned within 15 days. I emailed their customer service and they recommended the work be performed by a certified tech. I'm still not sold on paying someone to do something I feel I am capable of doing. Unless there are special tools, or equipment required that I can not rent at the local auto parts store, I'm up for the challenge. I've got a few friends that have offered help on the project (even if pointing and laughing at me is considered help) so we'll see how it goes.


I would not know, but get with 94383Z71, he just did a injector swap on his dime, he might be able to help.

Can someone post some torque specs for the job?

Ditto. Does anyone have the torque specs for injector replacement?

1. injector hold down
2. return lines
3. valve cover(s)

Ditto. Does anyone have the torque specs for injector replacement?

1. injector hold down
2. return lines
3. valve cover(s)


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=279436&page=5
The torque specs start on this page...I used this whole thread and it walked me right through the whole process.

fantastic. thanks.

Good luck! Come back if you need anything else...this forum has all the answers!

it certainly does. i have learned a ton here. fairly new to the DD world, not diesel in general. in the fuel line torque procedure it talks about adjusting for a crows foot and such. then in the example it uses 30 lb ft. is that the spec for the HP lines to the rail and injectors? i don't see specifically where it calls out anything else.

it certainly does. i have learned a ton here. fairly new to the DD world, not diesel in general. in the fuel line torque procedure it talks about adjusting for a crows foot and such. then in the example it uses 30 lb ft. is that the spec for the HP lines to the rail and injectors? i don't see specifically where it calls out anything else.

Now that you mention it, I remember running into that...I assumed it was and went on. No leaks so...

doesn't seem like much. they were quite tight when taking them off. if you don't have issues........i'll go with it. thanks again.