Hello all, yesterday I changed my oil and poured the entire 2 gallons of hot motor oil into my fuel tank thinking that because it was hot, it would just dissolve into the full tank of fuel I had and all would be good.

Well apparently that didnt happen, I started it up this morning and it ran ok for maybe 30 seconds, then it started getting a little combustion knock, check engine light came on, and it has gotten hard to start.

Im hoping the fuel became too dark for the optical sensor to see thru. i have dtc 17 18 35 54.

Ive drained all but a gallon or so of the fuel out of the tank, and will replace with fresh diesel later this evening and see what happens.

I was wondering, with the fuel being much darker, almost black, WOULD that be enough to cuase these problems, or have i done more serious damage to say the injector pump?

Any thought plz,

Thanks

Im Sure The Fuel Filter Didnt Like That.2 Gallons Or 2 Qts...HAD TO EDIT I DIDNT SEE THAT IT WAS A 6.5.IM NOT TO KEEN ON THOSE

I wouldn't try that again, motor oil will leave alot carbon buildup in pistons and heads, hard on the fuel system, and its just not something that you should do again, I would flush the fuel system and definitely change the fuel filter a few times!! Let this be a lesson why one shouldn't use motor oil as fuel.

There are still people who thinks, that they can run used motor oil as fuel or fuel additive. Sorry, but the only thing i can thought about this is "dumb, really dumb !".

NEVER runs motor oil, either new or used as fuel or fuel additve.

Spend a few bucks more to buy a additve like standyne, 911, diesel kleen, to name a few or usa 2-STROKE-OIL ! THIS OIL IS MADE FOR BURNING !

Cu,
Sven

BTW : Get the crap out of your fuel system, flush it, change the filter a few times and hope, the porblem is gone.

There are still people who thinks, that they can run used motor oil as fuel or fuel additive. Sorry, but the only thing i can thought about this is "dumb, really dumb !".

NEVER runs motor oil, either new or used as fuel or fuel additve.

Spend a few bucks more to buy a additve like standyne, 911, diesel kleen, to name a few or usa 2-STROKE-OIL ! THIS OIL IS MADE FOR BURNING !

Cu,
Sven

BTW : Get the crap out of your fuel system, flush it, change the filter a few times and hope, the porblem is gone.

to date, nothing has worked better on my balance rates(duramax). even running 2 gals though out the winter per tank. however, i do filter mine before i pour it in.


oh yeah, just call me dumb;) 80k+ miles, balance rates have never been better.




Aoelian, did you pour the oil in first then fill it up?

Hey Moss, what are balance rates?

As for mixing dirty old oil in the fuel, that is plain insane. The reason the oil is black is becuase of all the deposits in it......and now you want to throw that crap into your injctors, and pump. You have the balls.! Hopefully it all works out.

The saying "A little knowledge is dangerous", comes to mind.

We should start a thread of all the silly things we have tried, we could all have a good laugh, maybe call it, "the jokes on me" thread! hahaha. But I'm not going to be the first.

i did the same thing to my 97 6.5td about a month ago, and it instantly ran like crap because of the dirty motor oil, optic sensors dont like dark oil. i will not do that again!

There are a lot of opinions floating here without experience evidently. I have been burning my used engine oil in with my fuel for about 15 years in all sorts of diesels, Cummins, Cat, John Deere, Powerstroke, Duramax, etc. and have never had one problem with pump, injectors, or any part of the fuel system on any of them. The only trouble it has ever caused me, is it don't want to flow through a Duramax fuel filter very good when it's cold and you pour a whole oil change in when the tank is less then half full. One of the engines is a 855 Cummins with over 700,000 miles at 600HP and the only thing done to it has been to run the overhead (adjust the valves). Been burning all it's own oil changes since it was new. I just cant see changing my ways with the success I've had.:cool:
P.S. On a tractor with a consistent load, I see 2 psi. more boost with the oil in the fuel at 5% mix.:D

There are a lot of opinions floating here without experience evidently. I have been burning my used engine oil in with my fuel for about 15 years in all sorts of diesels, Cummins, Cat, John Deere, Powerstroke, Duramax, etc. and have never had one problem with pump, injectors, or any part of the fuel system on any of them. The only trouble it has ever caused me, is it don't want to flow through a Duramax fuel filter very good when it's cold and you pour a whole oil change in when the tank is less then half full. One of the engines is a 855 Cummins with over 700,000 miles at 600HP and the only thing done to it has been to run the overhead (adjust the valves). Been burning all it's own oil changes since it was new. I just cant see changing my ways with the success I've had.:cool:
P.S. On a tractor with a consistent load, I see 2 psi. more boost with the oil in the fuel at 5% mix.:D

Did you filter it first? or just dump the dirty oil. I think he dumped 7 quarts of straight dirty oil?

I use a very clean bucket or pan to catch it and pour it right in. I figure the oil has been through the engine oil filter thousands of times already. It may make a difference that I try not to let my oil get extremely black before I change it.

Ok , I emptyed the fuel tank(plus or minus a gal) and refilled with fresh fuel, I took it for a test drive and it ran better but still knocking like crazy(combustion knock) ses light stayed on, got it back home and shut it off, restarted it, it went back to normal right away upon restart.

some observations; apparently the optic sensor has a lot to do with the timing. when it got dirtied up, I can only assume that somehow the computer was fooled into thinking it needed to advance the timing, or being totally inoperative, it defaulted to a much more agressive timeing setting.

During the initial test run, but before the problem went away ,I did notice a good bit more power when I "got on it" so im going to look into the optic bump since it seems obvious a little more timeing would help, I wouldnt go nearly as far as this was tho ;)

I did not filter the oil, I simply dumped it into 25 gals of fuel. the oil was hot, so I had hoped it would just dissolve into the fuel.the next day it was a cold morning, an I think I basically sucked 90% used oil off the bottom of the fuel tank.

Ill probably never put 2 gallons in like that again. will definetly try and time my next oil change to precede a trip to the fueling station, where i will add a gallon and then fill up.

was a dumb mistake, in the way I did it, and not imo, to use up the old dirty oil that way.

Thanks for the replies :)

Let's put some analysis to this discussion.

First, just because someone does this, doesn't make them "dumb". Maybe is was curiousity, perhaps advice from another person, whatever.

But, just because you've done it once, or even 100 times, doesn't make it a good idea either. Just because you've done it and not had bad experiences, still doesn't make it a good idea.

Here's why. The reason the motor oil is black is chiefly due to the fact that there are unburned hydrocarbons in it; you commonly call it "soot". There are other insolubles, and all kinds of other wear metals in used oil, but the "soot" is what turns it black. And that soot is some of the most abrasive material known. And in the oil, the soot is also small; really small. So small in fact that no full flow filter can get it out, and even bypass filters stuggle to get it all. Soot can be smaller than 1 micron quite often. It also likes to agglomerate (join up) with other soot particles. And bouncing around in your tank isn't going to break up the soot carbon bonds, either.

Now think of your fuel system. The lift pump (no matter what brand or type engine) has to draw this fuel contaminated with soot up into the main pump body. The carbon wears on all the parts. Then, the soot-laden fuel goes to the fuel filter. Typically, fuel filters are nominally rated anywhere from 4 to 10 microns. Some are rated down to 2 microns, but even that isn't sufficient to stop the soot. So, the soot now travels to your high pressure pump, and then to the injectors. Along the way, it's scratching and wearing everything it can find.

In the old days, perhaps with old mechanical, low rpm, low pressure diesel injection pumps and in-direct single hole injectors, you might be able to get away with this for a while. Today's new high flow, high pressure pumps and multi-hole injectors DO NOT like this kind of treatment.

Do as you see fit. Just don't complain when somthing goes awry. You've been warned.

I used to run used oil through my Detroit Diesel 430 HP. Never a problem. As a matter of fact; Schneider used to have a bunch of International COEs with an add on system which recycled the oil directly from the engine. You would add clean oil to the reservoir then the system would pull oil from the motor and pump it into the tanks. The idea was to extend oil change intervals and just change filters. These were on pre 2000 motors. Don't know if they are still in use. Just an idea. http://www.heavydutytrucking.com/2002/03/114a0203.asp
http://www.embedded.com/story/OEG20010618S0078

I used to run used oil through my Detroit Diesel 430 HP. Never a problem. As a matter of fact; Schneider used to have a bunch of International COEs with an add on system which recycled the oil directly from the engine. You would add clean oil to the reservoir then the system would pull oil from the motor and pump it into the tanks. The idea was to extend oil change intervals and just change filters. These were on pre 2000 motors. Don't know if they are still in use. Just an idea. http://www.heavydutytrucking.com/2002/03/114a0203.asp
http://www.embedded.com/story/OEG20010618S0078
Maybe I'm not crazy...........

Just some logic to stimulate the thinker;
If the used oil is so dirty, and the black carbon in it is so abrasive, wouldn't the last 100 miles before an oil change wear the engine out?
The engine oil is what lubricates the injection pump on the drive side of the pistons and gears right?
I think most engine oils are formulated to not leave soot deposits and burn clean in engines that have less than perfect or worn rings and tend to burn a little oil on their own.
I don't have the answers, I'm just thinking here.:cool:

Engine Oil is very different from diesel though. Oil has an additive to keep the soot in suspension and allow the oil to do it job. Once you combine it with diesel, the additive is sure to break down, since diesel acts like a solvent, and as stated here in an earlier post, can and will clog up a fuel filter in a hurry, and can do some damage to your fuel system. I would think new, un-used engine oil mixed with diesel might return some lubricity increases...(see lubricity study) but I would just stick with one of the more widely available fuel additives.

firefighter 503, the whole point of changing oil is to remove the contaminants before anything abrades "during the last 100 miles before an oil change wear the engine out?" Besides, it's not accurate to attribute the accumlation of abrasives to such an accelerated, almost exponential, growth rate.

Also, you answered your own question by talking about the drive side of the pump. That is where the engine oil belongs. But on the driven side (fuel side) of the injection pump, the tolerances are MUCH tighter. And the metalurgy is different for the high pressure side as well. That's why soot on drive side is not as detrimental as soot on the driven side. Again, I'll point out that a traditional full flow oil filter is rated around 20um nominally, but a diesel fuel filter is rated at perhaps 6um nominally. The reason for the tighter filtration for fuel compared to engine oil is because there is less tolerance for contamination in the fuel system components; it's just that simple.

And bartman brings to light an excellent point. If we were to get 5% fuel in our engine oil, it would start to become significantly detrimental, rendering the additives and characteristics of the oil nearly useless. Yet, if you put 2 gallons of used oil into a 40 gallon fuel tank, you've got 95% fuel in your oil! That will break down the composition of the oil quickly, and all the abrasives will be freed again, no longer contained by the dispersants and dropping out of suspension, ready to wreak havoc on any available surface.

Monkeywrench14 brings up a good point. It used to be known that you could run some old oil in your fuel. But I made that clear in my previous post as well. But the fuel systems of the 6.5 and 6.6 diesels are not made to experience that type of fuel condition. The DD he had was specifically designed to run such a fuel product. He even spoke of a replenishment system that purposely dosed a measure amount over time. There's the big difference. The DD was designed to run on used oil, introduced into the fuel at a specified rate. The 6.5 and Dmax were never designed to run on used oil in the fuel, at any rate. What's ok for one engine design is not necessarily good for all engine designs. The practices of yesteryear are not acceptable in today's diesels.

I used to run used oil through my Detroit Diesel 430 HP. Never a problem. As a matter of fact; Schneider used to have a bunch of International COEs with an add on system which recycled the oil directly from the engine. You would add clean oil to the reservoir then the system would pull oil from the motor and pump it into the tanks. The idea was to extend oil change intervals and just change filters. These were on pre 2000 motors. Don't know if they are still in use. Just an idea. http://www.heavydutytrucking.com/2002/03/114a0203.asp
http://www.embedded.com/story/OEG20010618S0078
Not to condone burning used Oil, as I wouldn't do it but older 2 cycle detriots have a much more forgiving fuel system. NO IP .

This is just my opinion, but would you rather burn your own USED dirty oil or spend an extra $7 on 2gal of fuel. I'd spend $7 on fuel without thinking about the damage that "could" be done by burning your old oil. I know that you Can burn your old oil but I'd rather turn that in to an oil recycling center and spend $7 on fuel.

I've run quite a bit of used oil through my diesels over the years, but I haven't and won't run it through the Duramax. In my experience, I always filtered the used oil. I never ran more than 1 gallon per tank. I would add it prior to the fillup. Also, I would mix diesel with the remaining oil in the jug and pour it in the tank.

I never had a problem running on it, and actually it ran quieter than with straight diesel.

I stopped because overall, it was more of a pain than anything else (not to mention cleaning up a spilled gallon of dirty motor oil on my concrete floor wasn't worth doing that again.)

i guess i will keep destroying both of my motors.

another way to look at it. the crank and rods and pistons in your motor is lubed by oil. the crank rods and pistons in the cp3 are lubed by the fuel. would you run straight diesel in your motor? diesel fuel doesnt have the same lubricity it used to. i dont care what they say, its not the same.

were you drunk when you thought this was a good idea, you change the oil in your truck because it is contaminated......then add it to your fuel and try to burn it, duh

i dont need to get technical, i just let you know my results. when my motor comes apart, i will have pics as well.

it makes my motor run quieter, makes my balance rates better, and save me $ when i fill up.

Well I would never put used oil directly into my fuel tank on my 6.5. I was just providing the information on the Cumins and my experience with the DD for academic purposes. I agree that the 6.5 was never in an engineers wildest dreams designed to tolerate that. However if people do it and get away with it great. Just not something I'm willing to do.

I have a 1993 7.3 IDI international / ford. Some retard at the gas station about a year ago put 5 gallons of gas in it, didnt tell me, and then filled it up the rest of the way with diesel. The next day I couldnt get it to start. I smelled the fuel tank and it reeked of gas! so i drained it, and fillled it with diesel, and lucas fual stabilizer. Now it starts up...

here's the thing... ive foung that i HAVe to put in at least 1 gallon of motor oil in the tank everytime i fill up, or it will not start! period! any additive will work, but oil is the cheapest!

now why is that? could it be that my Damaged IP NEEDS the oil or extra lubrication to operate properly?

all i know is ive been running 1 to 3 GALLONS of motor oil in the tank for over a year now, and witout it, it wont run, or even try.

I simply run the oil thru 3 gravity feed filters, and pour it in!

weird hua?

any thoughts?

-Dan

BTW... im still getting 18-20 MPG in the 1 ton van its in!

here's the thing... ive foung that i HAVe to put in at least 1 gallon of motor oil in the tank everytime i fill up, or it will not start! period! any additive will work, but oil is the cheapest!

now why is that? could it be that my Damaged IP NEEDS the oil or extra lubrication to operate properly?

My guess would be that the IP has increased clearances now and that the extra thick "fuel" kinda takes up the slack if you know what I mean?

Any more info on this? I heard of a guy running nothing but used motor oil and tranny fluid. Only problem hes had is when he sometimes puts fuel in the tank it washes around the deposits and plugs the fuel filter. Its a '06 LBZ that he's running it in.

Ok, maybe I missed it in the thread, but someone please tell me:
Why you would blend used motor oil with your fuel?
What the heck is a "balance rate"?
Are any service departments recommending this?

Thanks

I'm with you Moss,I run it in my 01 as well. So far no negative results except a filter change.

As far as the rest of you guys openions it's hard to argue with 700K miles of success.

i dont need to get technical, i just let you know my results. when my motor comes apart, i will have pics as well.

it makes my motor run quieter, makes my balance rates better, and save me $ when i fill up.

i guess i will keep destroying both of my motors.

another way to look at it. the crank and rods and pistons in your motor is lubed by oil. the crank rods and pistons in the cp3 are lubed by the fuel. would you run straight diesel in your motor? diesel fuel doesnt have the same lubricity it used to. i dont care what they say, its not the same.

X2, 100%. My LMM's gotten the "black treatment" twice. I did wait until it was warm out though, since I had problems running on shitty fuel all winter! Didn't need to add to the problem. You know what they say, once you go black... well you get the idea. :eek:

Why you would blend used motor oil with your fuel?
What the heck is a "balance rate"?
Are any service departments recommending this?

Thanks

Save money.

Injector balance.

I doubt it.

i got my motor tore apart, nothing out of the ordinary as far as carbon goes. my pistons and injectors are beautiful. about a year and a half of 2 gallons of used oil per fill up in the winter and 3 gallons per fill up in the summer. i have pics and will start a thread as well!

i guess i will keep destroying both of my motors.



Mine is currently getting distroyed too then Moss

I was in the same boat as all of you who say this is stupid... untill I

#A: Saw Moss' motor all tore apart with no signs of problems
#B: Have seen many people run used motor oil with out problems
#C: Diesel went above $4.00 a gallon

I now run 3 gallons (8:1 mixture) per fill up, the way I see it is it takes $12.00 off every fill up, and on top of it, my motor has no knock on startup when it is cold now.

oh yeah, the oil is filtered through a 2 micron filter not just dumped in the tank

Just run the best additive (by study) 2% biodiesel, here's the link
http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=178848&highlight=lubrication+study
Y'all are just rehashing some of this.

Just run the best additive (by study) 2% biodiesel, here's the link
http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=178848&highlight=lubrication+study
Y'all are just rehashing some of this.

if you were to pay attention a little. we are not using a measly 16.64oz(1 pint) we are using 24 pints or 3 gallons. on a short bed thats 8:1(figured by philbilly2) not 50:1 or worse 200:1 as what the test was done with. other than using 5% or better bio, i have yet to have anything act the same as the oil i use for fuel. to each there own, just please dont say that we are rehashing this again, the price of fuel has changed!

I bet there's more people doing this then will say, now fuel being over 4.00 gal. Calling it stupid well we all have are opinions but have you seen moss truck run. Its not the biggest and baddest but it runs dam good with that black gold poured in to the fuel. Think of it as you will, but more people are trying this every day with success. Moss just could be on to some thing good luck.

500 hp for the first 2 years, 550-600 for the third, and 600+ all of last year. all on stock motor, all on stock orginal injectors. even when the motor was ripped out, it still drove itself on the trailer. 82,400 miles on the motor too

IIRC, Cummins says 5% is ok for their older engines in Dodge pickups but it's not recommended for the common fuel rail engines....and I've been adding at least that amount for the past 7 years in my 97. I know others that hit it 50% and higher. Mine usually ends up sitting for several weeks before being pumped through a filter and going into the tank and there's always a thick setiment left in the bottom of the jugs.

by the fact I still see big rigs smoking going down the freeway...I bet a lot of big rigs are doing this also.

In fact I first got the idea from a truck driver.

Philbilly and Moss thanks for sharing the info.

how are you guy's filtereing the used oil?

OK have not started running used oil yet but my brother better kown as workingbob has been running it for about 1/2 a yr now. o by the way he is realy good freinds with moss. and he had had no problems eather and he told me that his motor runs alot better and not a noisey.

you filter it with a 2 micron cat filter pumping it right out of the 55 gal drum that you store the oil in and when you fill up pour it in. put it in old winshild washer fluid jug. so you can take it with you to fill up and when you get back home refill them for next time.

Just as Paul said, It gets filtered through a 2 micron fuel filter, just use a hand oil pump out of a 55 gallon drum. Oh, and keep the pickup off the bottom of the barrel a little bit. Let the crap settle to the bottom.

Just as Paul said, It gets filtered through a 2 micron fuel filter, just use a hand oil pump out of a 55 gallon drum. Oh, and keep the pickup off the bottom of the barrel a little bit. Let the crap settle to the bottom.

key point about the pick up

you filter it with a 2 micron cat filter pumping it right out of the 55 gal drum that you store the oil in and when you fill up pour it in. put it in old windshield washer fluid jug. so you can take it with you to fill up and when you get back home refill them for next time.

that would be a used cat filter at that! the filter has about 50 or so gallons of oil through it so far too. some day soon i can start driving a diesel again and enjoy diesel and oil!

when filtering it, i would recommend hand pumping the oil through the filter rather than forcing it though. don't know if it matters, just make a little sense to me!

Is 82,000 miles high miles for a Diesel with that kinda horsepower and torque? Why are you pulling it?

think he s building it up to try to smoke my ass in the alt stock class in are local pulls.

hahahaahahahahahaha

well I have to get my motor paid for first

no comment moss

I think while you are on here running your mouth Paul, Moss is working on his truck. :D:stirthepo

hahahahaha philbilly Im almost done just wating on the motor

Is 82,000 miles high miles for a Diesel with that kinda horsepower and torque? Why are you pulling it?

not at all! bought it for pulling any way back in 03 with only 39k on the ticker.




paul, whos building a motor to beat who?;)

I've learned a lot about other people's experiences during the last day of reading and research I've done all over the net.

One option I didn't see mentioned here is centrifugal filtering.

One person's strong opinion is that they would use no other method than this as it removes particles as small as 1/10 micron.

If particulate contamination is the main concern then that method should go a long way toward addressing the issue. Of course it is not cheap to get started with that but I figure if one has a regular supply lined up then saving $4 per gallon makes it back quickly.

A number of people run 50/50 mixes.

1 micron filter bags are pretty common from what I've read.

vegpower.com has some of this equipment and I'm sure many other places do too, I just don't know where.

I would like to add one more thing that based upon my trials should also be done: boiling the used oil to get all the water out.

Once I started doing that I no longer had problems with emulsified looking fuel after the used motor oil was added.

As far as Centrifugal filtering: I thought anything below 2um will not hurt? So a double pass on a 2um fuel filter should be sufficient?

I heat the oil with a band heater around a drum to about 160 F before I centrifuge it and it works very well. Mixing a little diesel with it before centrifuging it also makes the centrifuge work better.

ok we are talking about used motor oil that came out of you truck or tractor not used veg. oil. there should be no water in the oil for you to have to boil out. if it came out of you motor and have water in itthen you have a problem.

As a scientist for the NIH that wrote what your physicians read, I eagerly step on "Good sounding rummors with no basis in fact". Who decided that soot was abrasive and to what degree was this abrasiveness? Try this. Get some on your finger and rub vigorously on glass or some soft polished metal like brass. You will not find any scratches like an abrasive would leave, but you will find that it acts much like a common lubricant that we all know as graphite. Chemically it is identical! Soot is pure carbon much like charcoal or coke and IS a very high energy source. When airborne it should burn hot and clean. At any event I do not know why anyone would want to remove it from his fuel unless IT WAS PROVEN to clog things up. As to the other things found in used engine oil, the worn bearing material should not pose any problems as there is so little and the particles so small that they should remain suspended. As for the sludge, it is primarily polymerized long chain glycols. These are not good and should be removed. Setteling, centrofuging or filtering (without pressure) should be adiquate. I don't bother trying to use drain oil in my fuel tank even though I think that is perfectly safe, it is just too messy for me to deal with.

anyone think an old 1984 6.2 military would burn it, i can't imagine the military was ever too careful when it came to pissing in the tank... just a thought, and im not talking diesel oil, like all that car oil from the hybrids, boat, motorcycle, my other gaser truck???:cool:

as long as theres only oin in it so water or gas. so if its a old motor and has bad rings were gas may have slipped pass the rings then no.

ok we are talking about used motor oil that came out of you truck or tractor not used veg. oil. there should be no water in the oil for you to have to boil out. if it came out of you motor and have water in itthen you have a problem.

hey rerod, when oil is sitting in a 55 gal drum and its 10 degrees out, then the next day its 50 degrees out, what do you think is sitting on the outside of the drum? what if you have a farmer dump the oil in 5 gallon buckets....get the point?


centrifugal filtering, what means is this done by. any pics? i know what your talking about because they use the same technology to remove water from sludge(poo) any pics, or links to pics?

not if you keep it in a building at the same temp.

The water goes to the bottom of the bucket/barrel so pump off the the bottom a few inches once a little watery oil colects pour on a bondfire and roast some marshmellows :D.

There is definitely moisture in the oil, I have used it with crystal clear fuel and I wind up getting a tank full of cloudy emulsified fuel.

If I boil it out, guess what...clear fuel but only darker. No water traps being clogged in my filter chain. It works for me and I pass it on here for others..WHO ACTUALLY USE USED MOTOR OIL or are thinking of using it.

can you take a pic of how you boil it? that would be awesome! whats the most gals of used oil you have dumped into your tank before? just did 4 without a problem, was just talking to blkgmchd's brother and he is doing 5 with out a problem too. this is on a 34 gal tank. he is using tts lift pumps, i am using a fass pump, and my neighbor philbilly has an airdog. i plan on getting the 2um filter for the fass though.(still filtering it as it comes out of the barrel too!)

Moss022,

For now I just boil on my grill side burner to over 240 deg and stir it for about 5min. I think in the future, if I setup a biodiesel kit I may use that to heat the oil.

The most I have used is 3 gallons(mixed with about even ratio of b100 giving a total of 6 gallons) to a full tank(full right to where you can see it) and no problems as before.

You may or may not have a problem but I also read on another site of another guy doing the same thing plus also mentioned centrifugal filtering which I do not do. I filter, twice through 2um after mixing with B100(about even). Then I let it sit for about 2weeks for any further settling, and then I heat and filter again and In the truck..whatever amount I have. I do not want any chance of moisture contaimination on the oil after I heat so I use it right away.

I do have an airdog 95 and it was the first filter on that thing that was killing me with clogging. I plan on replumbing so that my bigger napa filter sees the fuel first and would be cheaper to replace than the fleetguard airdog filter.

hmm...never have had a problem with filters plugging yet. however, i dont run that much bio. wonder if the bio is loosing the stuff that plugs the filters. do you run any additive too?

Hello all, yesterday I changed my oil and poured the entire 2 gallons of hot motor oil into my fuel tank thinking that because it was hot, it would just dissolve into the full tank of fuel I had and all would be good.

Well apparently that didnt happen, I started it up this morning and it ran ok for maybe 30 seconds, then it started getting a little combustion knock, check engine light came on, and it has gotten hard to start.

Im hoping the fuel became too dark for the optical sensor to see thru. i have dtc 17 18 35 54.

Ive drained all but a gallon or so of the fuel out of the tank, and will replace with fresh diesel later this evening and see what happens.

I was wondering, with the fuel being much darker, almost black, WOULD that be enough to cuase these problems, or have i done more serious damage to say the injector pump?

Any thought plz,

Thanks

wouldn't that be kind of like pissing in you Pepsi???:D

ok i have read all of this and i just talked to a friend that told me he is running used trans fluid in his 05 ford and it works great. think about it, it is thiner it is cleaner i have axcess to all of it i need just wondering what everyone thinks

WOW I can't believe I just read about this! You must have more $$$ than you know what to do with to try that. No matter what the benefits are 2 gal of hot used black oil in your fuel...WOW

ok i have read all of this and i just talked to a friend that told me he is running used trans fluid in his 05 ford and it works great. think about it, it is thiner it is cleaner i have axcess to all of it i need just wondering what everyone thinks

ya you can thin up the oil with that if it thick

WOW I can't believe I just read about this! You must have more $$$ than you know what to do with to try that. No matter what the benefits are 2 gal of hot used black oil in your fuel...WOW

why do you say that?

ya you can thin up the oil with that if it thick

When you put oil into diesel it thins it automatically, this is not a test it's a fact. If it didn't work that way you would have slug build up in the bottom of your tank have all kind of other issues like injector, bad smoking well he has that, or just not running. For those that do not think this will work very well please take a look at moss sig on his truck he show some impressive numbers for HP and at the drag strip as well at all truck pull he go's to. This was all done on a oil an diesel mix no drugs. But keep in mind this is not for ever one only those willing to try some thing different.

correct joe. other things i think about is i use as much bio as possible. i have read were bio will act like a solvent, thats why it has a bad reputation for plugging filters. i let the bio work its magic on the oil, and next thing you know my exhaust smells a lot different. keep in mind, when my motor was tore apart from over 2 years of running used oil, everything looked normal. even took pics, just dont have them up yet. so far, with what i have done, it actually sounds worse than what is going on.(burning used oil)

ok my ? is has anyone run trans fluid this guy is telling me he is running it 50 50 with diesel and it works great?

...still a foolish idea no matter what to burn used motor oil in a diesel truck.....pony up and recycle motor oil in a more responsible manner. Motor oils were never designed to burn as a fuel, try a diesel ADDITIVE instead as this is what they are engineered for.

ok my ? is has anyone run trans fluid this guy is telling me he is running it 50 50 with diesel and it works great?
I am running both motor oil and trans fluid (whatever I can get my hands on) and either one works very well. My brother has run trans fluid 100%:eek: and it seemed to work well also:D

...still a foolish idea no matter what to burn used motor oil in a diesel truck.....pony up and recycle motor oil in a more responsible manner. Motor oils were never designed to burn as a fuel, try a diesel ADDITIVE instead as this is what they are engineered for.
I think you might be on the wrong thread with that line of thought:rolleyes: This is how we learn by sharing our experiences. Diesel engines were invented by a man named Rudolf Diesel with the same idea in mind, which is trying to find another fuel alternative. If you're not comfortable with it, that suits me, it leaves more oil for those of us that like it.:D:D

I think you might be on the wrong thread with that line of thought:rolleyes: This is how we learn by sharing our experiences. Diesel engines were invented by a man named Rudolf Diesel with the same idea in mind, which is trying to find another fuel alternative. If you're not comfortable with it, that suits me, it leaves more oil for those of us that like it.:D:D[/QUOTE]

FIREFIGHTER 503 how right you are, no one going to learn if no one is willing to try.

I am running both motor oil and trans fluid (whatever I can get my hands on) and either one works very well. My brother has run trans fluid 100%:eek: and it seemed to work well also:D


I think you might be on the wrong thread with that line of thought:rolleyes: This is how we learn by sharing our experiences. Diesel engines were invented by a man named Rudolf Diesel with the same idea in mind, which is trying to find another fuel alternative. If you're not comfortable with it, that suits me, it leaves more oil for those of us that like it.:D:D

...that was with peanut oil...not used motor oil...fact check please. Well...time will tell how long the motor will withstand the types of "alternative fuel additives" that you guys are experimenting with. I contacted engineers at Diesekleen with your scenario. While some may say that they (Dieselkleen) are self promoting their products, I choose to use their advise instead. The simple fact remains that your addition of used motor oil and trans fluid will lead to "coking" in the cylinders eventually. Good luck with your endeavors, as I wish you the best of luck with your experiment. I too am looking for alternative fuels to run as well, however it is very important to remember that just because a product may combust when added to diesel fuel, doesn't necessarily mean that it will not lead to engine or injector failure. :)

I think you might be on the wrong thread with that line of thought:rolleyes: This is how we learn by sharing our experiences. Diesel engines were invented by a man named Rudolf Diesel with the same idea in mind, which is trying to find another fuel alternative. If you're not comfortable with it, that suits me, it leaves more oil for those of us that like it.:D:D

FIREFIGHTER 503 how right you are, no one going to learn if no one is willing to try.[/quote]


Yes, I too am looking for a alternative as well, but sticking more to the experts in the field and straying away from "experimenting". If you guys want to coke your cylinders due to incomplete combustion...go ahead. All was trying to suggest is to lean towards oils that were engineered to combust.

...that was with peanut oil...not used motor oil...fact check please. Well...time will tell how long the motor will withstand the types of "alternative fuel additives" that you guys are experimenting with. I contacted engineers at Diesekleen with your scenario. While some may say that they (Dieselkleen) are self promoting their products, I choose to use their advise instead. The simple fact remains that your addition of used motor oil and trans fluid will lead to "coking" in the cylinders eventually. Good luck with your endeavors, as I wish you the best of luck with your experiment. I too am looking for alternative fuels to run as well, however it is very important to remember that just because a product may combust when added to diesel fuel, doesn't necessarily mean that it will not lead to engine or injector failure. :)
I know that was peanut oil, but it was something that nobody thought would work either. Time will tell on this I guess, I have only been doing this with diesel engines since the 1980'3 and with the duramax since 2001 when they first came out, and no problems yet:D LOL

FIREFIGHTER 503 how right you are, no one going to learn if no one is willing to try.


Yes, I too am looking for a alternative as well, but sticking more to the experts in the field and straying away from "experimenting". If you guys want to coke your cylinders due to incomplete combustion...go ahead. All[I] was trying to suggest is to lean towards oils that were engineered to combust /QUOTE]



You need to start your own Thread, maybe oil addicted coke police:blahblah::exactly: what oils are engineered to combust thanks for the help

...that was with peanut oil...not used motor oil...fact check please. Well...time will tell how long the motor will withstand the types of "alternative fuel additives" that you guys are experimenting with. I contacted engineers at Diesekleen with your scenario. While some may say that they (Dieselkleen) are self promoting their products, I choose to use their advise instead. The simple fact remains that your addition of used motor oil and trans fluid will lead to "coking" in the cylinders eventually. Good luck with your endeavors, as I wish you the best of luck with your experiment. I too am looking for alternative fuels to run as well, however it is very important to remember that just because a product may combust when added to diesel fuel, doesn't necessarily mean that it will not lead to engine or injector failure. :)

ok but when you run the used oil in the fuel how come it quiets down the motor and the balance rates on the injectors run great ?????????????????????????????????????????????????? ????????????????????????????????????????

ok but when you run the used oil in the fuel how come it quiets down the motor and the balance rates on the injectors run great ?????????????????????????????????????????????????? ????????????????????????????????????????


I can understand why your motor would quiet down, but my point was why run the risk of adding motor oil which was not engineered to burn vs. say two stoke oil that is ??? I understand how at small ratio's it may burn enough to get by the injectors but what are the long term effects? Even if you were able to filter out all of the metal shavings etc., from the oil, aren't you concerned about what it is doing to your injectors, cat or other emissions equip? My truck factory doesn't have a cat, or egr or even a dpf and I am still very hesitant to believe that any good can come from this in the long run. I just think that it would be too risky on a $60K truck JMO

but my point was why run the risk of adding motor oil which was not engineered to burn
If I understand correctly, engine oil is engineered to burn. A lot of engine oil advertisements even say things like "Advanced Soot Control" meaning in the combustion chamber. Most engines will use a small bit of oil, some a lot more than others especially when nearly worn out. Oil manufacturers take this into consideration when developing engine oil so that it will not cause plugs to foul or valves to "coke" up in an oil burning engine.

...that was with peanut oil...not used motor oil...fact check please. Well...time will tell how long the motor will withstand the types of "alternative fuel additives" that you guys are experimenting with. I contacted engineers at Diesekleen with your scenario. While some may say that they (Dieselkleen) are self promoting their products, I choose to use their advise instead. The simple fact remains that your addition of used motor oil and trans fluid will lead to "coking" in the cylinders eventually. Good luck with your endeavors, as I wish you the best of luck with your experiment. I too am looking for alternative fuels to run as well, however it is very important to remember that just because a product may combust when added to diesel fuel, doesn't necessarily mean that it will not lead to engine or injector failure. :)

you said it yourself buddy, you tell me were the motor in my truck has to run on the fuel at the pump, the guy that invented the diesel motor ran it on peanut oil. just about any oil can burn. i even have pics of my motor after running oil for over a year and a half, sorry to say there wasnt a single sign of "coking" anywhere. i still plan on starting a thread with MY findings with the pics from my motor that ran at over 500hp for 4 years. so far i havent had a single coking problem in either motor i have. the motor oil these days dont leave the deposits like it used to, were is the "coking" going to come from? my pistons showed no signs of extra build up either. i would agree that emissions may be different, different good or different bad i dont know. i do know that a guy was turned around in the emissions line because he was burning oil,"your helping the problem". on a lighter note, i have a buddy telling me that a closer buddy is running 2 gallon per fill up on an lmm. good results so far

you said it yourself buddy, you tell me were the motor in my truck has to run on the fuel at the pump, the guy that invented the diesel motor ran it on peanut oil. just about any oil can burn. i even have pics of my motor after running oil for over a year and a half, sorry to say there wasnt a single sign of "coking" anywhere. i still plan on starting a thread with MY findings with the pics from my motor that ran at over 500hp for 4 years. so far i havent had a single coking problem in either motor i have. the motor oil these days dont leave the deposits like it used to, were is the "coking" going to come from? my pistons showed no signs of extra build up either. i would agree that emissions may be different, different good or different bad i dont know. i do know that a guy was turned around in the emissions line because he was burning oil,"your helping the problem". on a lighter note, i have a buddy telling me that a closer buddy is running 2 gallon per fill up on an lmm. good results so far


I guess your right...YOU DO know everything....:D

I guess your right...YOU DO know everything....:D



It's not a matter of knowing every thing, it's a matter of trying you on the other hand have you head up your ass so far with your right or wrong BS. No one asked for your in put. If this is not for you then fine go to another thread that you can go play doc Phill . Try the lift laws seeing you have some thing in common with them

burn

It's not a matter of knowing every thing, it's a matter of trying you on the other hand have you head up your ass so far with your right or wrong BS. No one asked for your in put. If this is not for you then fine go to another thread that you can go play doc Phill . Try the lift laws seeing you have some thing in common with them


Thanks for the "intelligent" reply, and the unwarranted advise but my response was not directed to you.

Thanks for the "intelligent" reply, and the unwarranted advise but my response was not directed to you.

if you did not know when you post anything on this site for every one can see it. its directed to every one.

I guess your right...YOU DO know everything....:D

People like you waste my time with all of your finger yapping! It is like I am reading a tread between two teenage girls.

If you don't like what you see then move on to another thread don't waste everyone's time having a pissing contest. we get it you don't use oil in your fuel. neither do I but I am going to try some after reading this thread. I have never heard of people using oil in their fuel until lately.

Give it Hell!

I guess your right...YOU DO know everything....:D

please point out to me where i said that i know everything? i would really like to know so i dont do it again:rolleyes:

your such a waste.....have you ever done anything like this? and one more thing, if you dont like it, dont look. pretty simple!!

please point out to me where i said that i know everything? i would really like to know so i dont do it again:rolleyes:

your such a waste.....have you ever done anything like this? and one more thing, if you dont like it, dont look. pretty simple!!


:blahblah: moving on thanks.

your welcome!

your welcome!

Do us all a favor with your "used oil experiment" and be sure to post WHEN your dmax engine FAILS. It is obvious that you don't want to be proven wrong...you will be...just give it time.

Patiently waiting !!:D

Guys: I think that it is safe to say that some of you agree to disagree on these issues. We need to keep this thread on the up and up. Thanks for your understanding. ;)

then there would be lots of post on a failed dmax do to a number of people doing the best thing for there motor.

UPDATE
I am steadily increasing the oil/fuel ratio and am up to about 50-60% oil in my fuel and it runs very good! No issues at all that I can tell.:D The only thing different is when I get on it, the smoke has more of a grayish look then black.

There have been others who have used motor oil and have actually done a tear down and found nothing.

The member was called superdiesel...used to be a vendor.

This pissing match has occured before between others when this site was new. Superdiesel actually used everything...gear oil, trans oil, used motor oil...at very high concentrations. He tore his engine down and found nothing!

If these oils were leaving deposits then it would not take long before problems would show up...Especially his. That is if we believe the counter point true.

Evidence such as his disputes these oils are harmful. He used it to actually recover injectors that were failing..they wind up improving.

So I tried it and found it beneficial becasue of people before me who have done it and shared the data.

I have seen this all before, I didn't work 35 years ago, when injector tolerances where a lot less and the tip holes and injection pressures where 10% of what they are now. We used a fancy rig and all it did was screw up everything that it was used in. If you have a brain in your head you will not try this or a lot of other thing I read. The only modification I plan on doing is to add a Davco 233 filter set up and with the fuel filters in the newer unites being 2 micron and oil filters being 30. A saying about Ignorance is Bliss comes to mind. PLAY SAFE!

it is pretty funny when ignorant people call other people stupid....you just got to laugh.

I'd like to see facts instead of opinions:cool:
If you haven't tried it, all you have is an opinion.

Do us all a favor with your "used oil experiment" and be sure to post WHEN your dmax engine FAILS. It is obvious that you don't want to be proven wrong...you will be...just give it time.

Patiently waiting !!:D

whos afraid of being wrong?;) hey pot quit talking about the kettle. my "experiment" has been going on for almost 3 years now.

now to be serious, my first motor i started doing this too, it failed. please tell me how oil made me push several injector cup and bend rods!! my engine failed, but dont worry about that big spinny thing.

just to let you know, i have been wrong before:D

i will give you the opportunity to forecast my failure, please with all your wisdom, please tell me whats going to fail?

There have been others who have used motor oil and have actually done a tear down and found nothing.

The member was called superdiesel...used to be a vendor.

This pissing match has occured before between others when this site was new. Superdiesel actually used everything...gear oil, trans oil, used motor oil...at very high concentrations. He tore his engine down and found nothing!

If these oils were leaving deposits then it would not take long before problems would show up...Especially his. That is if we believe the counter point true.

Evidence such as his disputes these oils are harmful. He used it to actually recover injectors that were failing..they wind up improving.

So I tried it and found it beneficial becasue of people before me who have done it and shared the data.

this is the guy that "taught" me. even made a round trip in a dually from Colorado to indy and back on nothing but used oil, very little to no diesel used

I have seen this all before, I didn't work 35 years ago, when injector tolerances where a lot less and the tip holes and injection pressures where 10% of what they are now. We used a fancy rig and all it did was screw up everything that it was used in. If you have a brain in your head you will not try this or a lot of other thing I read. The only modification I plan on doing is to add a Davco 233 filter set up and with the fuel filters in the newer unites being 2 micron and oil filters being 30. A saying about Ignorance is Bliss comes to mind. PLAY SAFE!

what does it matter what the oil filters are being filtered at? did you know that people would be safer not driving at all, but people do it everyday and not get hurt.....whats to gain if your stuck in the same rut? try something different

for people having a problem with this and dont a agree with moss and other member doing it should ask what is moss doing to get the number that he has with his truck. and think about the time and resurch in to it and that he must put it in to every thing he does on he trucks. so if it was bad for the truck he and many other people would not do it.

Well I'm trying it. I filled up the Titan tank and added 2 quarts of trans. fluid. It drove fine for about 100 miles. Then I added 2 more quarts of trans fluid and 2 quarts of Castrol 30W out of the race car. I drove that for about 70 miles and decided to pour the other 8 quarts out of the race car into it. I took it for a test drive to the store and back with no problems. The only thing different that i've noticed is the truck is a little quieter.
I don't know how it will be affected over time, but I'm gonna find out. With 10 quarts to an oil change every 3 weeks on the hot rod oil accumulates quick around here, Not counting a couple other cars I help keep up.

dont forget to filter it be for you put it in. run it trough a 2 micron filter then put it in. store it in a drum and pump it out and trough a filter.

another thing i have noticed...

i ended up running the tank real low last week, low enough that the fass pump was making funny noises. i turned the pump off. the next morning i pulled my truck out of the garage, the exhaust was hazing just slightly, never noticed this before(i do check this VERY often). filled the tank back up, turned the pump back on and nothing.

so, i am also recommending that there be a lift pump when mixing heavier amounts of oil too. in a perfect world, that lift pump would also have a return line with extra filters. the return line would aid in mixing the oil if it settles out over extend times with out running.

good or bad, take it what it for.

I am now running a mix of about 50% used engine oil,30% bio-diesel from chicken fat:eek:, and 20% diesel. Runs very good, slight haze from exhaust if idled for a lengthy period of time.

dont know if the haze means anything. if anything, dirtys the motor oil up faster. i have been wondering if there is any thing building up. if a good flogin would burn it out...kinda like a dpf. turn the tune up and get some heat in there!

dont know if the haze means anything. if anything, dirtys the motor oil up faster. i have been wondering if there is any thing building up. if a good flogin would burn it out...kinda like a dpf. turn the tune up and get some heat in there!
Oh, believe me I do! I keep it burned out plenty, it only hazes if it idles cool for a while but I have no problem with that:D It probably does it more with bigger injector nozzles and lowered compression. My other LBZ doesn't haze at all.

thats something to think about, bigger injectors, bad pumps haze to. so what if the fuel your burning makes your exhaust haze.

Hi Folks, I have just joined this site and have been really interested in this thread, I live in England and have just started using filtered used motor oil in my Vauxhall Corsa 1500cc diesel on an 80% used oil 20% diesel mix.

It was great for the first week nice quiet engine but during the second week the power has dropped off I can still hit 80mph but it takes a while , starting from cold is a bit lumpy as well (its about 60 degrees at the moment)

I am using this as a test case with the intention of using this fuel in my trucks

Has anyone had similar problems to me ?

Also has anyone tried this stuff in a common rail engine yet ?

I know that during the first go round with Iraq there was no diesel when Marines first hit Kuwait so they mixed 1 part gas with 3 parts dexron and ran it in all the diesel powered equipment......it did take out the older injection pumps and clogged the hell out of fuel filters.....this was due mostly to the dirt etc that had settled was "freed up" and allowed into the fuel lines...... the same thing happened when the Marine Corps switched to JP8.... I remember the 6.2's being louder (if possible) but running tons better on the JP8 but I think the Inj. pumps didn't / don't last as long due to the lack of lubrication in JP8...... I also remember a Detroit 8V92 running away on the dyno on nothing but eng. oil.... the rack had been run wrong and once it started running away the fuel was shut off but the eng continued to run on eng oil that was being pulled from the crankcase.....yes it did blow apart but not because of the oil but three rods flying thru the block :D . I have run a diesel / kerosene heater on used motor oil and it was much hotter burning...... if I were to use my used oil it would definitely get filtered.... and the centrifuge thing would work as well... but if I went that far I'd just reuse it in the crank case with additives..... if you don't think centrifuge would work think again...Navy ships and carriers use this for all there on board machinery... no such thing as "used oil" all of it is reused.

Hi Folks, I have just joined this site and have been really interested in this thread, I live in England and have just started using filtered used motor oil in my Vauxhall Corsa 1500cc diesel on an 80% used oil 20% diesel mix.

It was great for the first week nice quiet engine but during the second week the power has dropped off I can still hit 80mph but it takes a while , starting from cold is a bit lumpy as well (its about 60 degrees at the moment)

I am using this as a test case with the intention of using this fuel in my trucks

Has anyone had similar problems to me ?

Also has anyone tried this stuff in a common rail engine yet ?


I think you are using to much oil do a 50 50 mix. you may have a pluged fuel filter. all d maxs are common real so yes

Hi Folks, I have just joined this site and have been really interested in this thread, I live in England and have just started using filtered used motor oil in my Vauxhall Corsa 1500cc diesel on an 80% used oil 20% diesel mix.

It was great for the first week nice quiet engine but during the second week the power has dropped off I can still hit 80mph but it takes a while , starting from cold is a bit lumpy as well (its about 60 degrees at the moment)

I am using this as a test case with the intention of using this fuel in my trucks

Has anyone had similar problems to me ?

Also has anyone tried this stuff in a common rail engine yet ?


sounds like that might be a little thick for the temps too. try running straight diesel though it and see what it does. its my opinion that the older motors should be better at heavy oil ratios like that becuase of the injectors having a lot bigger holes in the tip, and becuase the fuel system doesnt even come close to running the same psi that the common rails do.

on a lighter note, does the exhaust smoke any different?

burn it in your furnance mixed with off road diesel filtered first. 10 to one ratio

I would like to say thanks to Moss & firefighter for standing your gground in light of the attacks by chickenshits who spend too much time reading the owners manual, and not enough time in the REAL world. I too have been running WMO for a very long time. I have a dodge Cummins 24 valve, and have mixed the oil up to 50/50. I have also used this in my wifes 06 VW Jetta TDI. No problems at all. I also have a couple big trucks with 470 Series 60 Detroits. I routinely run red fuel, and so burnt motor oil gets rid of the red. I have poured as much as 40 gallons of burnt motor oil to a 100 gallons of fuel in my big trucks. I have avoided using ATF as of late, because there are too many additives in it, different than the older ATFs that really don't burn well. I would use some new ATF, but will not use drained oil. As for filtering my WMO, simply put, I pull a old T shirt over a 5 gallon bucket and pour it from 1 bucket to another. I have a 90 gallon transfer tank that I will pour up to 30 gallons of oil into, then top off with diesel. When I don't need it right away, it just rides around and mixes up. Any of the NAYSAYERS, who don't really know WTF they are talking about, says it doesn't mix is bad wrong. If OIL was not meant to burn, then why DOES it. Build a campfire and pour some oil on it. Does it put it out like water? Hell No! It burns so hot, you have to get away from it.
The only thing I THINK I know about WMO is, the carbon chain is not like that of diesel, and it does not entirely break down in the diesel, but I don't care, it burns great. I know a particular fellow by the name of Garmon from McDonough GA, who tells me he runs 50/50 mixes in his RAcin engines. Knowing him like I do, That is good enough for me. Oh & my Dodge Cummins only has 304 K miles on it.
What I find funny is the Naysayers saying that it is going to blow up those Dmaxes. Hell I thought they blew up without the help of OIl. LOL.
I also have a 15KW military generator that I am tinkering with. I have been heating oil up and burning straight. I want to rig up my exhaust under the tank so that the exhaust heats up the oil thin enough to freely run into the injection pump, as it is gravity fed system. I will keep you informed of this project, as I hope to get rid of my light bill,with this project. I wonder what Al Gore thinks about us polluting the air with WMO, LOL.. Good Reading, MOSS, Fireman

sounds like that might be a little thick for the temps too. try running straight diesel though it and see what it does. its my opinion that the older motors should be better at heavy oil ratios like that becuase of the injectors having a lot bigger holes in the tip, and becuase the fuel system doesnt even come close to running the same psi that the common rails do.

on a lighter note, does the exhaust smoke any different?

funny you should mention that, last week it started smoking a bit so I put 2 gallons of straight diesel in with no effect. I let the tank run to empty then filled it right up with straight diesel which improved the smoke but the performance was getting worse and the starting was bad, today I drained the filter and filled it with injector cleaner, after 2 hours of running and 2 hours standing the performance was much improved, a freind of mine told me these injector pumps (Bosch VE) are prone to governor sticking if any dirt is in the fuel.

So my next plan is to get one of those oil centrifuges and run it till no dirt is left then put some fuel additive in to up the combustion a bit and run it at 50/50 oil and diesel.

Here's hoping ?

Quote of the Day!

Heres Hopeing!! :nutkick: :rotflmao: :smashfrea: :thumbsdow: :stirthepo: :bendover:

I have been following this thread and these are some great experiments guys!.

Moss- Good to hear someone out there with some proven results. Until this, i would have never tried to put used motor oil in my dmax, but with all of the oil I have hanging around, sure going to give it a try.

Anyone that is not using a 55 gal drum with a filter on it, have you found a better gravity system that is a little less primative than a old t-shirt?


Also, I'm down in FL, how much do i have to worry about water in my oil if i am storing it in sealed containers?

Thanks and look forward to seeing more results.

I have been following this thread and these are some great experiments guys!.

Moss- Good to hear someone out there with some proven results. Until this, i would have never tried to put used motor oil in my dmax, but with all of the oil I have hanging around, sure going to give it a try.

Anyone that is not using a 55 gal drum with a filter on it, have you found a better gravity system that is a little less primative than a old t-shirt?


Also, I'm down in FL, how much do i have to worry about water in my oil if i am storing it in sealed containers?

Thanks and look forward to seeing more results.



Hey Marc, don't think the Tshirt works ? If I had a Dmax, I probably wouldn't try it either. The engine has a hard enough time running on diesel fuel, much less anything else.:eek:

The engine has a hard enough time running on diesel fuel, much less anything else.:eek:
Humor me and explain yourself.

Humor me and explain yourself.

Just a Cummins guy throwing a jab. All in fun.

Yesterday i got brave and dumped a qt of tranny fluid in my tank, and a quart of fresh oil in my 50 gal aux. (garbage i had sitting around) So far 100 miles and it still runs!!

I'm hoping to see my balancing rates get better on 2 of my injectors.

Marc,as previously mentioned, ATF is not really meant to burn like it used to be able to. If it was meant to burn, how long do you think your tranny would last. The quart of oil in 50 gallons of diesel, will probably go almost unnoticed. I would suggest a gallon of 2 stroke in the trucks tank and 2 gallons to the 50 gallons. Then you will see some difference. You can always use some waste motor oil too, but that is for when you REALLY get brave.

Marc,as previously mentioned, ATF is not really meant to burn like it used to be able to. If it was meant to burn, how long do you think your tranny would last. The quart of oil in 50 gallons of diesel, will probably go almost unnoticed. I would suggest a gallon of 2 stroke in the trucks tank and 2 gallons to the 50 gallons. Then you will see some difference. You can always use some waste motor oil too, but that is for when you REALLY get brave.

You guys need to go back to some of the first threads about Moss is putting used oil in his tank, pulling with good power an good Dyno # . He's got things worked out take a look

You guys need to go back to some of the first threads about Moss is putting used oil in his tank, pulling with good power an good Dyno # . He's got things worked out take a look



Oh I agree, JB, I run a lot of oil thru my truck. It has 300 K miles on it. Need I say more ? Why buy 2 stroke when I can get hundreds of gallons just for collecting it up? Only expense is my time & labor. I am working on a diesel generator to run electrical to my home, off of straight motor oil. I plan on using the exhaust under the holding tank to thin the oil down so it will burn more easily. I would like to tell the electric company to get lost.

Where do you get the hundreds of gallons of used oil?

I have an oil heat furnace for my shop ....

Prochummer,

starting off small and watching my operation as a bring the amount of oil up. I dont really care about the tranny fluid, it was oil and on the shelf and it was clean so what the hell.

I am working on a duel filter system before the OEM filter for 10 and 2 microns with a water separator and a lift pump before i start running used, so we'll we what happens.

Oh I agree, JB, I run a lot of oil thru my truck. It has 300 K miles on it. Need I say more ? Why buy 2 stroke when I can get hundreds of gallons just for collecting it up? Only expense is my time & labor. I am working on a diesel generator to run electrical to my home, off of straight motor oil. I plan on using the exhaust under the holding tank to thin the oil down so it will burn more easily. I would like to tell the electric company to get lost.

Telling the electric company to get lost would be pretty sweet. What about listening to the generator? repairs?

YOu plan on leaving it running 24/7? sounds like a lot of work.

Oh I agree, JB, I run a lot of oil thru my truck. It has 300 K miles on it. Need I say more ? Why buy 2 stroke when I can get hundreds of gallons just for collecting it up? Only expense is my time & labor. I am working on a diesel generator to run electrical to my home, off of straight motor oil. I plan on using the exhaust under the holding tank to thin the oil down so it will burn more easily. I would like to tell the electric company to get lost.

The exhaust will work great for heating oil just build a chamber to keep the heat in, good luck on getting it running

Marc their is no noise when you put a barrier between the house and genset. When I was in Desert Storm, we took a dozer and pushed out about a 5 to 6 ft hole and just backed the gensets down into them. Hardly any noise at all. I do plan on running 24/7, but with a battery backup system for maintenance. I have not checked into the types of battery system I would need to power the house for a few hours. Do you guys have any ideas on that? Maybe I can stick me a solarpowered windmill up, to keep things running. LOL
Couger, I get all the oil I can haul off from several local truck shops and service stations.I try not to ever stop getting it for fear of someone else getting it. I got lots of 275 gallon totes and 55 gallon drums, that I collect it and store it in.

Where do you get the hundreds of gallons of used oil?

I have an oil heat furnace for my shop ....

Tell just about any farmer that you will haul away his used oil for free and he will most likely show you about 5-10 55 gallon drums of the stuff. Even the John Deere dealership in my town will come pick up anything over 30 gallons free of charge to burn in their oil burners in the shop.

Ok I've tried a centrifuge to get the muck out which it did, put some additive in but it still smokes like a chimney, power is down and starting is poor, this is on a 50/50 mix. Tried it in one of my trucks same problem but no power loss probably due to it having a turbo ? it also doubles the smoke output

Any ideas folks ?

Ok I've tried a centrifuge to get the muck out which it did, put some additive in but it still smokes like a chimney, power is down and starting is poor, this is on a 50/50 mix. Tried it in one of my trucks same problem but no power loss probably due to it having a turbo ? it also doubles the smoke output

Any ideas folks ?

If you fill out your signature, it will help us some to know what engine it is and what mods you have. A few more details and we will try to help you out.

the good and bad:

i started to notice that my truck started to smoke more under a heavy foot. at the time all i had was a hypertech. never smoked. then one day i got on it, and wow! it smoked a lot......then i come across a used edge juice box. smokes even more. i didnt have any hard starts. thought i might of noticed a little less power. came across some CRC fuel injector therapy in my garage. i seen that bottle and remembered the conversations with Super Diesel i've had(he would be my wmo mentor). he wanted me to run that stuff in a tank every other fuel tank. well, thats the first bottle i have since i have been doing this stuff just over 3 years ago. had just under a half a bottle. so, the next time i filled up, i ran it almost dry. filled it up with straight diesel, and the CRC stuff. after a half a tank, i almost have no smoke, even with the stack. super diesel did tell me that if you run the oil heavy enough you might "coke" up the injectors. imo, what ever was going on, seems to be better. never noticed a power difference, but that could be just all in my head. hopefully i will notice mileage when i go down to schieds.(i do mostly city driving)

this cleaner i speak of. the only place i have ever found it is at napa. CRC fuel injector therapy. not the cheapest stuff in the world either....but works! it was around 15 bucks or so when i bought it a while back.

i too thank you for the support! i dont care to much about why people think its bad. i just want to know why its bad or good for your experiences. not just because you think its bad.

some day i will get the pics up of why my pistons looked like when i took my heads off too. some day!

Moss, do you think water/meth injection would keep things "cleaned up" around the injectors and cylinder area? I am going to try that next, just wondered if it had been tried already for that purpose.

as a matter a fact, i do! big time. i dont know the how to's, but water helps clean up carbon.

the good and bad:

i started to notice that my truck started to smoke more under a heavy foot. at the time all i had was a hypertech. never smoked. then one day i got on it, and wow! it smoked a lot......then i come across a used edge juice box. smokes even more. i didnt have any hard starts. thought i might of noticed a little less power. came across some CRC fuel injector therapy in my garage. i seen that bottle and remembered the conversations with Super Diesel i've had(he would be my wmo mentor). he wanted me to run that stuff in a tank every other fuel tank. well, thats the first bottle i have since i have been doing this stuff just over 3 years ago. had just under a half a bottle. so, the next time i filled up, i ran it almost dry. filled it up with straight diesel, and the CRC stuff. after a half a tank, i almost have no smoke, even with the stack. super diesel did tell me that if you run the oil heavy enough you might "coke" up the injectors. imo, what ever was going on, seems to be better. never noticed a power difference, but that could be just all in my head. hopefully i will notice mileage when i go down to schieds.(i do mostly city driving)

this cleaner i speak of. the only place i have ever found it is at napa. CRC fuel injector therapy. not the cheapest stuff in the world either....but works! it was around 15 bucks or so when i bought it a while back.

i too thank you for the support! i dont care to much about why people think its bad. i just want to know why its bad or good for your experiences. not just because you think its bad.

some day i will get the pics up of why my pistons looked like when i took my heads off too. some day!

Moss, do you run that cleaner all the time or just that one time and it cleaned it up?

Also, do you run 50/50 all the time and do you run additional fuel filters?

I started a month or so back putting around 5 gallons of used motor oil/transmission fluid in my tank at a time. I've poured it in with a half tank before and seen no difference. If I can get my hands on enough I'm going to start running more. So far I've only burnt about 30 gallons total. But I have had no problems, no smoke, and no powere loss.

I started a month or so back putting around 5 gallons of used motor oil/transmission fluid in my tank at a time. I've poured it in with a half tank before and seen no difference. If I can get my hands on enough I'm going to start running more. So far I've only burnt about 30 gallons total. But I have had no problems, no smoke, and no powere loss.

Fill in your sig, what type of truck, and are you using additional fuel filters?

I have now tried a new additive called Millers diesel performance plus and the smoke output on the truck (Iveco) has now reduced to below annual test limits its a bit expensive at $24 per 500ml I'll keep trying with the centrifuge to see if I can get it cleaner, not sure whether that will improve combustion. The Corsa engine has nearly died, exhaust looks like Casey Jones steam train and you have to rev the nuts off it to get going, wonder if it might be worth ripping the injectors off and testing them ?

Does anyone know how to get pictures on my profile ?

I have now tried a new additive called Millers diesel performance plus and the smoke output on the truck (Iveco) has now reduced to below annual test limits its a bit expensive at $24 per 500ml I'll keep trying with the centrifuge to see if I can get it cleaner, not sure whether that will improve combustion. The Corsa engine has nearly died, exhaust looks like Casey Jones steam train and you have to rev the nuts off it to get going, wonder if it might be worth ripping the injectors off and testing them ?

Does anyone know how to get pictures on my profile ?

Go to "my garage" under my profile in user CP

update:

well, i think i found out why my truck started to smoke. back when i swapped motors, the only senser that didnt get changed was the fuel temp. it would read that the fuel temp was -40F. swapped it out and the smoke is gone. not only that but i also have about 75 more hp. since doing this the exhaust smells even different. right now, no smoke

update:

well, i think i found out why my truck started to smoke. back when i swapped motors, the only senser that didnt get changed was the fuel temp. it would read that the fuel temp was -40F. swapped it out and the smoke is gone. not only that but i also have about 75 more hp. since doing this the exhaust smells even different. right now, no smoke

Nice find! I like discovering things like that:)

i have know since it got warm out, was throwing ses light. i finally got around to fixing it and poof!

awesome, time to crank up the WMO Ratio!

I see in the sigs that ya'll have much, much newer trucks than mine. I believe I read somewhere that the older IPs might not take such "abuse":rolleyes:...Any warnings or advice for someone that might be interested in using small amounts of WMO in a stock 1982 6.2?

i would say they can use more. they run on lower pressures and i would imagine that the injectors run bigger holes.

So it shouldn't be an issue then or cause any problems? I'm only looking at adding a gallon or less at a time (to a full tank of @20 gals of diesel) to see how things go at first, and slowly working it up from there. Fuel prices are killing me and I need to do something until I can get a WVO or biodiesel setup going...

That's the best way to do it, add just a few gallons at first, then start increasing the ratio every tank full till your happy with it. Just make sure you don't have water in it, or especially antifreeze which will thicken the oil and plug your filter real quick!

I have the great 7.3L in my 1997 F250. I poured 4 gallons of my used motor oil in a half empty tank. Man! Awesome! The engine runs so much better, so incredibly quiet, almost like a gasoline engine. I guess I don't have an optic sensor to screw with me on that. And whatever crap gets in the oil has been filtered by the oil filter, and again by the fuel filter. Whatever builds up on the pistons and valves will blow right out the tailpipe when I put the pedal down. Whatever problems you guys are having must be from overly superlative electronics.

has anyone tried to burn synthetic oil? Also, do you think this might have an effect on the LML emissions equipment?

not to beat an almost dead horse but i wanted to share my and a coworker's experience. i am running 8 gallons of filtered used atf per tank. it runs fine haven't noticed a lack of anything but used atf around the shop. and actually my mileage went up about a half mile to the gallon. it is around 20 degrees here right now and it starts and runs great. i gotta coworker that has a 2002 7.3 and has been doing the same for about 7 years and has not had a problem. as stated before it is hard to argue with experience. however i don't think i will run engine oil it just seems like the thickness would be a potential problem.

has anyone tried to burn synthetic oil? Also, do you think this might have an effect on the LML emissions equipment?


I personally would not risk anything in a LML with the DPF equipment. Very risky.

I am currently running a two tank system,diesel and WVO. The WVO system gets heated with coolant. Do you guys think it would be better to start testing small amounts of WMO with the heated WVO or with the stock diesel fuel? I too, would like to know if anyone has tryed burning synthetic oil?
Thank you

has anyone tried to burn synthetic oil? Also, do you think this might have an effect on the LML emissions equipment?

yes, superdiesel did and says that it dont burn well. it will smoke white with very little of it in the fuel. with that said, i always left it alone

I did it too and do not recomend it. It burns OK but what it hurts is my concern? I'd guess it hurt my injectors and CP3 from what I've seen.

yes, superdiesel did and says that it dont burn well. it will smoke white with very little of it in the fuel. with that said, i always left it alone

If you dump that used oil from your engine since it is past its effective life why in the hell would you dump the crap in your fuel and put it back into the engine? These engines and their fuel system are too expensive to save a few bucks on a couple of gallons of diesel fuel.

If you dump that used oil from your engine since it is past its effective life why in the hell would you dump the crap in your fuel and put it back into the engine? These engines and their fuel system are too expensive to save a few bucks on a couple of gallons of diesel fuel.

if thats your opinoin then thats fine, but its not doom and gloom as you think. if you do a few things right, it could be better than some fuel out there.

Has anyone tried a conversion kit on a duramax engine. With diesel prices sky rocketing I'm seriously looking into an alternate fuel system for my diesel.
They sell conversion kits but not sure if they are made for the duramax. The conversion kits are for running Veggie oil. They make it sound simple. From what i have read thus far the veggie oil is better for your engine as it is more oil based.
The other thing I have seen is the Diesel Secret. My brother ran it in his ford and i think he had issues. Probably becasue he didnt filter the veggie oil. Looking for ideas, coments, concerns, pros, cons.

thanks

Has anyone tried a conversion kit on a duramax engine. With diesel prices sky rocketing I'm seriously looking into an alternate fuel system for my diesel.
They sell conversion kits but not sure if they are made for the duramax. The conversion kits are for running Veggie oil. They make it sound simple. From what i have read thus far the veggie oil is better for your engine as it is more oil based.
The other thing I have seen is the Diesel Secret. My brother ran it in his ford and i think he had issues. Probably becasue he didnt filter the veggie oil. Looking for ideas, coments, concerns, pros, cons.

thanks

1. Why wouldnt you filter it?

2. veggie oil is a bio fuel and will gel at a higher temp than #1 or #2, leaving you stranded unless you have a method to keep it warm when its 0* outside in the winter.

3. I doubt veggie oil has the heat capacity as #2 diesel, meaning less heat so less mpg at the same rate of fuel.

4. Your brother has a ford...they all have problems ;)

so there are no guys running WMO in their LML engines? and I too would like to know if anyone has any experience with "The Diesel Secret" ?

so there are no guys running WMO in their LML engines? and I too would like to know if anyone has any experience with "The Diesel Secret" ?

i would say no one yet. there too new....i mean, a tight ass like me wouldnt buy a new vehicle, i wait a few year and let the new wear off, or let the price come down. however, i have now set my lmm up to start using wmo....when prices get just a little bit higher

Common rail Dmax is not a 12 Valve Cummins. You can ruin Dmax injectors and more fast with crap fuel. If you want cheap fuel buy a junk Dodge with the 12 valve motor and P pump they run on about anything if you dose it with diesel for cold weather. I can't tell you not to run crap it's your truck many other guys have screwed up their Dmax with Veg oils you need clean bio if that's your next idea. Know what you put in the tank or it will get expensive fast for fixing that money saving fuel damage. Guys spend $4k on conversion kits for common rail engine and screw up quality of fuel do another $6k damage to engine but can't afford diesel. I have news for the subject oil is going to $115 plus this yr. it's known and in progress see it yet? Buy a VW if your that close on money you can't afford fuel for a Dmax. Just sayin' it's on the window look easy to read the writing. Not bitchin' just have to put the cards on the table. The question is where do they get the money for conversion kit if they can't afford diesel? Damn- I know VISA...

Common rail Dmax is not a 12 Valve Cummins. You can ruin Dmax injectors and more fast with crap fuel. If you want cheap fuel buy a junk Dodge with the 12 valve motor and P pump they run on about anything if you dose it with diesel for cold weather. I can't tell you not to run crap it's your truck many other guys have screwed up their Dmax with Veg oils you need clean bio if that's your next idea. Know what you put in the tank or it will get expensive fast for fixing that money saving fuel damage.

have you run wmo in a dmax? have you tore a dmax motor down that had run wmo? i have. i am not saying its okay and that you wont ruin anything, i am saying that it appears that my filtering standards proved adequate. i also never ran more than 5 gal/ fill up on a 34 gal tank. summer or winter.

my big thing....anyone notice how much quieter there motor ran on wmo? with that said, i think the part thats getting hit the hardest on wmo is the injector tip. depends on the soot in the fuel/oil

Common rail Dmax is not a 12 Valve Cummins. You can ruin Dmax injectors and more fast with crap fuel. If you want cheap fuel buy a junk Dodge with the 12 valve motor and P pump they run on about anything if you dose it with diesel for cold weather. I can't tell you not to run crap it's your truck many other guys have screwed up their Dmax with Veg oils you need clean bio if that's your next idea. Know what you put in the tank or it will get expensive fast for fixing that money saving fuel damage. Guys spend $4k on conversion kits for common rail engine and screw up quality of fuel do another $6k damage to engine but can't afford diesel. I have news for the subject oil is going to $115 plus this yr. it's known and in progress see it yet? Buy a VW if your that close on money you can't afford fuel for a Dmax. Just sayin' it's on the window look easy to read the writing. Not bitchin' just have to put the cards on the table. The question is where do they get the money for conversion kit if they can't afford diesel? Damn- I know VISA...

Agreed

Hmmm, I have some old paint and stain in the garage. Does anyone want to come over and pour it in the tank of their $50k truck? What were you thinking? Or were you?

have you run wmo in a dmax? have you tore a dmax motor down that had run wmo? i have. i am not saying its okay and that you wont ruin anything, i am saying that it appears that my filtering standards proved adequate. i also never ran more than 5 gal/ fill up on a 34 gal tank. summer or winter.

my big thing....anyone notice how much quieter there motor ran on wmo? with that said, i think the part thats getting hit the hardest on wmo is the injector tip. depends on the soot in the fuel/oil
Hey Moss run WMO if you filter and prep it. It's your engine I only said what I do, you do whatever you want if it saves you money go. I just know that old 12V is the easiest and steady runner to run any oil in without the risks of the Dmax. So I'll park the Dmax and run the clunker on the crap in bad weather etc. no image problem for that here. Cheap fuel is great if you have it. Simple they all run on oil and gel or ??? Go for it.

Hmmm, I have some old paint and stain in the garage. Does anyone want to come over and pour it in the tank of their $50k truck? What were you thinking? Or were you?
I just purged a Sam Adams thru my nose reading your hit. That's a classic for this run any crap slot. Sense of humor is priceless even if we have to be real and serious for the Newbs. I know my old 93 runs 15/40 oil used- mixed with 20% diesel down to 0 deg. but it's plugged in just helps start it. I love the simple system on it. Best cheap fuel burner style pumps are the best I found with a little dosing and help. If you can get scrap oil free and only run 10 or 20 % diesel that's savin'. Can't blame anyone for wanting to save.

Hmmm, I have some old paint and stain in the garage. Does anyone want to come over and pour it in the tank of their $50k truck? What were you thinking? Or were you?

Right. Because if you ruined the motor somehow, the whole "$50k truck" would be ruined.

Have not read through all of this but my random info.

Have not done Used motor oil in my Dmax but in my 93chev with a 12v Cummins and my old 95 Dodge 12v I ran close to 500gal through of used oil,gear oil, ATF when gas was $5 per gallon. When close to a 50/50 mix the trucks did smoke at idle, but they are still fine today.

Since we picked up a waste oil heater at the shop oil has not gone into my 12v Chev anymore.

I just purged a Sam Adams thru my nose reading your hit. That's a classic for this run any crap slot. Sense of humor is priceless even if we have to be real and serious for the Newbs. I know my old 93 runs 15/40 oil used- mixed with 20% diesel down to 0 deg. but it's plugged in just helps start it. I love the simple system on it. Best cheap fuel burner style pumps are the best I found with a little dosing and help. If you can get scrap oil free and only run 10 or 20 % diesel that's savin'. Can't blame anyone for wanting to save.

I am ahsamed that I caused good beer to be wasted! I hope you have recovered :p:

I agree, anything we can do to keep the money out of terrorist hands is good with me. It just sounded like the OG poster just dumped some old oil in his tank without much thought. Who knows, maybe I'm wrong and he did research it. That's why this site is so cool, we can all bounce ideas off each other and help each other out. I hope everyone sensed my sarcasm in my first post!

Hey Moss run WMO if you filter and prep it. It's your engine I only said what I do, you do whatever you want if it saves you money go. I just know that old 12V is the easiest and steady runner to run any oil in without the risks of the Dmax. So I'll park the Dmax and run the clunker on the crap in bad weather etc. no image problem for that here. Cheap fuel is great if you have it. Simple they all run on oil and gel or ??? Go for it.

glad to know you have a 12v as most people on this site dont, but thanks anyway....

instead of me telling why i think its okay, what to watch out for and how i have run wmo in the past, please be specific as to why its bad. i, as well as other people would like to know.

i would also like to know how oil gels....i know how fuel does, but not oil, enlighten me please

Clear it up explanation bio gels, WO in common rail injection systems will kill the injectors, other precision injection mfgs. don't endorse it, military only runs it's one fuel not wmo. If you want to run motor oil in your common rail go do it. It might even run in the old 7,3 power strokes for a while too. The Duramax pulls the fuel from the tank vacuum-so do you then believe the CP3 can pull 15-40 diesel motor oil from the tank to the fuel injectors? When cold you should see the problem with stiff oil. The old Cummins with doctored motor oil/diesel when cold will run still has to be helped but it will.

Hello all, yesterday I changed my oil and poured the entire 2 gallons of hot motor oil into my fuel tank thinking that because it was hot, it would just dissolve into the full tank of fuel I had and all would be good.

Well apparently that didnt happen, I started it up this morning and it ran ok for maybe 30 seconds, then it started getting a little combustion knock, check engine light came on, and it has gotten hard to start.

Im hoping the fuel became too dark for the optical sensor to see thru. i have dtc 17 18 35 54.

Ive drained all but a gallon or so of the fuel out of the tank, and will replace with fresh diesel later this evening and see what happens.

I was wondering, with the fuel being much darker, almost black, WOULD that be enough to cuase these problems, or have i done more serious damage to say the injector pump?

Any thought plz,

Thanks

Not trying to be a smart ass, but putting used motor oil (that isn't meant to be burned in a combustion chamber) in your diesel fuel is about the same as pissing in your bowl of hot soup before you eat it.

Not trying to be a smart ass, but putting used motor oil (that isn't meant to be burned in a combustion chamber) in your diesel fuel is about the same as pissing in your bowl of hot soup before you eat it.

thats what one would think....but its sure amazing what one would find tearing a motor down;)

I ran up to 20% WMO in my '96 6.5 with no problems. More than that and the optical would cause faults when cold, but a restart would usually fix it. Made more power on WMO mix than straight diesel.

My WMO system used a 15 gal holding barrel, where I would dump newly collected oil and let it sit for at least a week. Then pumped it into a 35 gal barrel via hand pump with the pickup about 10" off the bottom to leave any water and crud. I pumped it through a hydraulic filter. The 35 gallon barrel was my "clean" oil, which I pumped via 12v pump through another hydraulic oil filter and into the fuel tank or gas can for later use. (I only poured it in right before fill-up, so it would mix better.)

I've since run up to about 10% in my '06 LB7 with no adverse effects. Actually, I find that the truck is less likely to set low rail pressure faults with a little WMO in there, so I suspect that with 5000 hours and 140k miles, the CP3 is getting tired. I'm adding a 12v lift pump to help things along next.

So diesel being almost $4 a gallon here in CO, I'm getting back to burning some WMO. Getting my filter set-up going again, and collecting. As a general rule, I do NOT burn WMO from diesels. Way too much soot, so I try to get oil from gas engines only. (friends and co-workers)

I have a friend with a veg setup on his '06 cummins (also CP3 Common rail) and it does fine, but he shuts it down and fires it up on diesel, and only runs veg once the veg tank is up to temp. The veg tends to coke the injectors a little, but some cleaner once in a while takes care of it nicely. (I think he uses seafoam)

If you don't want to run WMO, don't. But for those of us doing it, it's nice to hear other people's experiences, and ideas for better systems. FYI, generally the heavier the oil, the higher the energy content, so that explains why trucks seem to make a little more power on WMO...

I ran almost 100% straight WMO in my old deuce and a half, and added some gasoline in the winter to aid starting with good results. Not that a duramax is similar to Multifuel that the deuce had, but I wonder if a splash of gas might aid starting in older trucks running WMO in the winter. (non-common rail trucks!)


C

some one on here showed me this: http://www.bluegrassfuel.net/page2.php

looks like a great setup, just a little steep on the price. anyone else know of anything like this?

Just arrived out from the cold in this forum due to having bought my first 6.5 dually 3500.

I have been updating the memory banks and then I found this thread... well.....

I had a better time reading here and seeing the banter back and forth then I can remember having for a long time.

I read all the if's and maybe's, but am stuck on the did's and been there's.
I have owned a few wannabe diesel cars and mainly want to tell you that the diesel rabbit I abused and beat the heck out of worked on WMO, storebought NVO, baby oil, aircraft WMO, mixes of 25/75 110 lowlead/diesel, 35/65 coal oil/home fuel, parrafin/diesel, and most anything else that would fire up the little critter for more than 6 years.

It started out with a 180K bum engine, a warped head, which I machined and re-gasketed. (had to be seriously careful with the clearances on it) I was lucky and ended up with a mobile portable running goldmine for 6 years, while all that stuff was processed through the little engine.
If it was oil based I tried it.

The result was that it did me for 6 years, smoking, belching and farting, but also running clean and mouth watering, while mostly running an average of roughly 25 to 35% mixes and sometimes straight mixed grades of oil. It ran uphill faster then a scared rabbit on some and slower than molasses on others. (yup tried that too.)

When a buddy wanted it for his own bio experiments I sold it to him with the promise that I would benefit from his own bio experiments, it had 385 some odd K on it then. Today it sits in a field again the same as I left it when buddy bought it, waiting for a new alternative experimental fuel to surface, so it can smoke, belch and fart some more.

All in all, I look to this site and threads and find the same attitudes and resolves that I encountered back then just the same. Before that, I resided in The Netherlands and ran fresh veg oil (salad mix) in my 2 stroke bikes and mopeds with no noticable damage or problems, alcohol worked too, with some mixes to keep the heat down. (forced air cooled engines.)

While I understand the incredulity and retorts from unbelieving, non comprehending folks for whom it is impossible to wrap their minds around the concept of alternative home brewed and freeby fuels and oils, and need to insist and ascertain for themselves that anything short of scientifically and government sponsored tested fuels and oils is blasphemy, I am certain that they would love to have the approval of THEIR leaders, peers and "other" entities (and the parts man at the counter), and that it is really ok.

Getting to have that kind of approval of said individuals and institutions however, cuts right into the profits stuff like this would create in revenues under controlled conditions. It'll never happen!

I am pleased to see that the practice of alternativity is alive and well, and growing, whether it is for economic reasons or just plain ingenuity and a wish to push one over on our establishment, who gives a damn?

The inventors and scientists did exactly that, to experiment with methods to decrease cost, invent new avenues of interest, and just plainly a reason to not get bored and find a reason to have a beer or two.

There is no difference here, you folks that actually DO something to help yourselves have fun and rid this world of some waste here and there (don't want to get into a discussion about pollution, 'cause that's going to be here even if we didn't excist!) are the fotunate ones who found enjoyment in a place where this is shrinking by the minute due to restrictions, attitudes and politics.

Nuff said, I'm home! :D

Take care, PH.

Moss, if you remember, I had some questions about the filtering. The bags filters have been great for me. Ran about 350 gallons of my 50/50 mix through it and I'd say i have at least that much more left in them before needing to wash them out. I've been running 50% wmo and 50% bio for a couple thousand miles.

Started having a decent idle haze on cooler day coming into winter but the oil i had gotten from someone had quiet a bit hydraulic oil and my egt's were pretty low. Ran a good fuel cleaner through it, got another batch of motor oil that supposedly has a decent amount of ATF and truck has been running awesome with only having to put a couple gallons of diesel in per tank when temps got down to around 30-35. Just recently, it just starting pugging a pretty good amount of blueish/white smoke at idle and it started overnight. One day good, the next day really hazy. Put in straight diesel and it cleared up a tad but still looking like I was fogging for bugs at every intersection. If i get on it, it clears up but comes back once my egts drop past a certain point. I'm wondering if me trying to push the thicker fuel though the injectors with a bigger tune would have caused one to crack? Checked balance rates. 1 is at 14 and 3 are around 6 and the rest are in spec and I have 113k on the odometer, I'm running a heave dose of stanadyne though the system now and if that don't fix it, i'll be shelling out for new injectors.

Question I have, would bigger nozzles be better with having thicker fuel or stock ones are my best bet?

I have been filtering used motor oil adn burning it at about a 30-70 mix. Will probally thin it out a little in the winter. No adverse side effects. I try to avoind gas burner oil as it has carbon, I use only used diesel oil.