Ok... This is probably a bit off the wall...

Since I will be installing a TouchTek 16 control panel http://www.tst-corp.com/pdfs/ttcs16.pdf into my truck to control the lighting system, air horn, train horn, AC Inverter, and gun rack...

The increased load on the power system with all the lights on will be 75 amps, a total of 900 watts of power. Combine that with a Viair 400 air compressor on a 5 gallon tank for the air horns, a 2000 watt AC inverter, and you can see that I'll be stressing out the charging system.

I'm going to be replacing my stock alternator, 105 amp with the 140 amp, as well as purchasing a secondary 140 amp alternator kit from Dmaxallitech's site.

That being said, TST also does custom panels. I believe and have a has a high idle output. If it does, or even if it doesn't and they have to custom design a box for me, what would be the best way to have it engage the high idle?

They can also add in a load shedding system to be able to turn off light arrays one by one until the low voltage condition is corrected.

My thinking was because it's designed for fire service operations that it has a low voltage sensing circuit. I'd splice it into the cruise control, and the parking brake switch. When the parking brake was engaged, and anything was on, it would engage the high idle by closing a relay to "turn on" the cruise control, irregardless of the cruise control's switch position. It then would actuate the 1250 rpm level.

Anyone see anything wrong with this idea? I want to be able to ensure that just because I have all the lights on, it doesn't end up killing my batteries/charging system.

It always seems that people end up calling ME to get them unstuck.. and when they do it's always getting, or already is dark. Light is good especially when you are trying to see what the best way to get a rolled truck out of a 15 foot culvert is...

Well I am not an expert on electrical, so I don't think I could help you with your question. I do tinker with this stuff and I do win some and loose some.
But I thought I would comment on that sounds like you need to find more freinds that can drive.):h
Do you honestly think you need to have all of your lights on at the same time? All you should need is the front lights and maybe some in back when moving backwards.
I use a resetable breaker and a large heavy duty relay to handle my two Lighforce lights. I believe I am double covered in this aspect. I don't like using the plastic relays. I have had issues with them before.

Just on a side note. What do you think of this crapy weather? Or are you back yet?

Well, this weather is.. interesting.. Raining for the past 2 days so it's icy as all get out, and now it's snowing outside. Make up your *)&% mind, Mother Nature! I'd rather stand outside and freeze than deal with this ice buildup on post... they don't plow any of the driveways and such on post.. half tempted to hotwire one of the plow trucks so I can fix the situation at least for my little neck of the woods.

The main reason I want 360 lighting, is because driving down and up the alcan we end up sleeping in the truck. We hear noise, bam perma-noon around the truck and I can see what I have.

Side lighting will be a plus for when I am working on something or someone outside the vehicle, and then the 10 lightforces up front should provide ample lighting for hauling butt offroad as well as down the alcan. Rear lights will be good for backing up at night, as well as working on the trailer if I'm hauling something/somebody's ride because they can't get it home on their own.. sometimes a 18' flatbed is more of a curse than a blessing.

I was doing 55 with the highs, lows, and fogs on at the same time and still was being ambushed by moose/caribou/reindeer/etc in canada. The K5LA I'll be getting will be great for getting them off the road, and the Grover stuttertone will be nice for when a regular horn just doesn't cut it for a stupid driver. The Gun rack will be.. well, it'll be there to keep the guns locked up in the truck so I don't have to worry or flat out hide them. The prisoner bars in the back windows will keep Kayla the superdog from jumping out of the truck because she knows how to roll the windows down, but will still let me roll them down in the summer to let her have fresh air and bark her head off at anyone near the truck.

that sounds pretty cool to me. if you need the wires they are at the ecm , for turning the cruise on apply 12 v+ continuous to c-2 #16 (clear) to go to 1250: apply 12 v+ pulse to c-1 #18 (blue) to go to 1700: apply 12 v+ pulse to c-1 #22 (blue). youl have fun wiring in all the relays or you could go to radio shack and get those cool little cirkt. boards and transistors to do what you want. i just got done wiring my remote start for high idle , it works pretty darn good.):h


oh yeah forgot you need to pulse c-1 #18 twice after starting truck first time, you could do that pretty easy (more parts at radio shack)

TST just emailed back, they have some ideas of their own on how to do it. Very cool company, and their control panels look slick anyway. I'll be flush mounting it on the ceiling to the rear of the upper console so it'll be using that hump that is wasted space since I don't have the DVD option, etc.

that sounds pretty cool to me. if you need the wires they are at the ecm , for turning the cruise on apply 12 v+ continuous to c-2 #16 (clear) to go to 1250: apply 12 v+ pulse to c-1 #18 (blue) to go to 1700: apply 12 v+ pulse to c-1 #22 (blue). youl have fun wiring in all the relays or you could go to radio shack and get those cool little cirkt. boards and transistors to do what you want. i just got done wiring my remote start for high idle , it works pretty darn good.):h


oh yeah forgot you need to pulse c-1 #18 twice after starting truck first time, you could do that pretty easy (more parts at radio shack)

Ok, so if I have this straight, to engage high idle I need to have power to C2-16 and C1-71, then have 2 pulses go to C1-18 to engage 1250, and one pulse go to C1-22 for 1700?

If you go to the dealer or someone with a tech II you could do the high idle as they say in this document. That way you will have one button on and off.

http://www.gmupfitter.com/publicat/bull/bull63.pdf

if you keep your cruise control switch on all the time that is c-2 #16. c-1 #71 is the high idle enable. if i can figure out how to resize these one-lines i will post them .:mad:

The other option is to power up the c1 - 71 with the brake switch method as lots of people around here do. Then you can just tie into the blue wire under the steering column that reads+12v when you press set on the cruise. Then all you will have to do is press your high idle button twice. No need to go to the ECM for the cruise wires, they are under the dash. You do need to go to the ecm for the c1=71 however.

ok i hope this works.

The other option is to power up the c1 - 71 with the brake switch method as lots of people around here do. Then you can just tie into the blue wire under the steering column that reads+12v when you press set on the cruise. Then all you will have to do is press your high idle button twice. No need to go to the ECM for the cruise wires, they are under the dash. You do need to go to the ecm for the c1=71 however.


So, doing it that way off the parking brake switch... Parking brake is set, momentary-off switch the parking brake lever assembly has is now closed because the brake is down. That also supplies power to C1-71 now also enabling the PTO at the same time.

So now all I need is for it to close the circuit so the system thinks the cruise control switch is on, and pulse twice to the set button's lead out, or the resume lead out.

TST is working with me so now that I have various ways to get this going, it's not a big deal.

Next question... vehicle stock amperage draw. I want to ensure that I don't overload the charging system with everything. What is the "stock" power overhead designed into these trucks? anyone know? I want to remain as close as possible to that even with all the accessories I am going to be adding... lights, inverter, stereo equipment.

Max,
I just hooked my high idle up last week with the Kennedy instruction. I was going to hook the wire to the E brake switch as you mentioned but I was unable to get power with a test light. I ended up going to the green/white wire on the brake pedal that you mentioned on another post. That worked out great for me.
Just curious why I was unable to get any power on the switch when the E brake is set. Plus I noticed that when the E brake is on the brake light flashes unlike most vehicle where it just stays on. I was also concerned about this being a pulse signal.
I remember someone on this forum having an issue with the wire for their idle set up getting what seems like a pulse signal also and I thought this might have been the case.

The park brake switch is ground. You would have to use a relay to convert it to a + pulse which was stated in that post where I suggested it.

Ok thanks. Sorry I missed that.