Everyone has been awaiting the oil sample results using the Amsoil EaO Oil Filter vs. the Oilguard Bypass as tested on my truck. I got the results back and they were not good! However, it is inconclusive as to the effectiveness of the Amsoil EaO oil filter. The reason is a leak in the resonator!

The results of my oil sample showed elevated Silica (dirt) and pretty high numbers on the particle count (ISO Cleanliness Level). The silica is a result of a leaky air intake system or a bad air filter (leaky or too porous like a K&N). High particle count can be from the air intake system also OR from a poor quality oil filter.

The comment on my oil analysis said "inspect air intake system for leaks". I checked all of the connections before disassembly and found nothing obvious. Then I started taking the air intake system apart and looked for dirt patterns inside the intake system. I noticed a lot of dirt INSIDE the resonator. I decided to use hot soapy water and wash out the entire intake system (not including the air box that contains the MAF sensor and filter minder, I hand wiped this). When I dunked the resonator in the water and submerged it, I lifted it out of the water and what did I see? Water running out of the top seam, farthest from the opening to the resonator!

My resonator has a crack right along the seam and dirty air has been bypassing the air filter right into the engine!

So, the test comparing the EaO vs. the Oilguard bypass will need to wait until I get another 5k miles on clean oil and a tight air intake system!

Crappy GM resonator! And if I wasn't so anal and did oil analysis and investigated a poor result, my engine would be eating dirt from now till? Thank you to George Morrison and AVLube for helping with this test. Their oil analysis is top notch and I have used them from day 1. Sorry the Amsoil EaO results are totally inconclusive at this point beacause of a leaky resonator! SPICER

UOA can be a great tool- glad to hear you eliminated a serious problem before it got out of hand.

Thanks for the 411! Now all the rest of us need to be checking our intakes and resonators for leaks.

Glad to see that the UOA found a real problem in your truck that could have ruined your engine. As gc47 stated above, many of us are going to be checking our air cleaner housing very carefully. So, even if the test did not give the intended results, once again you have helped us avert a major problem.

We can wait another 5,000 miles for the oil filter test results. ):h

Thanks SPICER ! :D

I have less than 100,000 miles (97,700) but more than 5 years, just over. I will talk to my dealership tomorrow and see if they will find a way to warranty it. It is obviously a defect. I have not touched the resonator for years! And I did just spend a boat load at the dealership for new brakes and coolant system flush. SPICER

Thanks Spicer. We can wait. Good catch!

As Arlen has shared so well (as always), I believe Arlen has found an induction issue that exists on other Duramax. I have been reviewing Duramax oil analysis for the past several years with results indicating similar same high levels (or higher!) of dirt (silica) and corresponding high wear metals. We have alerted owners of the possible induction leak but when they check their induction systems they have checked tight and have not found any source for the induction dirt.

Enter Arlen... As he indicated, without his "water check", he would never have caught the seam break. His previous oil analysis results were superb, so the break has taken place in the past recent miles..

We had an almost exact replicant of this situation with certain Ford diesels where a plastic component would split after heating and cooling cycles took its toll. However, in the Ford case, the component was very difficult to get to, much less check. A very dedicated Ford owner took nearly a year to find the leaking culprit piece of plastic!

So, I now am quite sure that there are other Duramax out there with exactly the same condition as this seam Arlen found but would not be something one would inspect in the "Arlen" manner. Without the water test,the seam on the resonator may appear to be just fine. Air, like water, will follow the path of least resistance and any break downstream of the air filter will enable unfiltered, dirty air into the engine and corresponding, immediate, increase in wear rates.

This resonator may be a component considered for removal from a system in that it could be like playing Russian Routlette.. If Arlen had not accomplished his oil analysis when he did, the intake leak could have extracted a million miles worth of wear, all without Arlen knowing it was taking place.

George Morrison, STLE CLS

As Arlen has shared so well (as always), I believe Arlen has found an induction issue that exists on other Duramax. I have been reviewing Duramax oil analysis for the past several years with results indicating similar same high levels (or higher!) of dirt (silica) and corresponding high wear metals. We have alerted owners of the possible induction leak but when they check their induction systems they have checked tight and have not found any source for the induction dirt.

Enter Arlen... As he indicated, without his "water check", he would never have caught the seam break. His previous oil analysis results were superb, so the break has taken place in the past recent miles..

We had an almost exact replicant of this situation with certain Ford diesels where a plastic component would split after heating and cooling cycles took its toll. However, in the Ford case, the component was very difficult to get to, much less check. A very dedicated Ford owner took nearly a year to find the leaking culprit piece of plastic!

So, I now am quite sure that there are other Duramax out there with exactly the same condition as this seam Arlen found but would not be something one would inspect in the "Arlen" manner. Without the water test,the seam on the resonator may appear to be just fine. Air, like water, will follow the path of least resistance and any break downstream of the air filter will enable unfiltered, dirty air into the engine and corresponding, immediate, increase in wear rates.

This resonator may be a component considered for removal from a system in that it could be like playing Russian Routlette.. If Arlen had not accomplished his oil analysis when he did, the intake leak could have extracted a million miles worth of wear, all without Arlen knowing it was taking place.

George Morrison, STLE CLS
Very well put George.

Thank you for sharing your expertise.

I would highly recommend everyone to do a very thorough inspection of their air cleaner/induction system to make sure there are NO leaks downstream from the filter. I know that I will be checking my truck as quickly as I can get some free time to do so.

Sorry to sound ignorant but what and where is the resonator?

Sorry to sound ignorant but what and where is the resonator?

The black plastic "thingy" on top of the motor, it can be removed and pluged, with no real effects.

I took the resonator off yesterday and plugged it with a 2" rubber PVC cap with a hose clamp (from Home Depot). I had to tighten it after the engine and plug warmed up (it is cold in Wisconsin), but it seems to be a good fix. I had a cool idea......Make an auxiliary air filter and housing to replace the location of the resonator. The housing could have a cool appearance AND have some function. Anyway, just a thought.

I would encourage anyone with a resonator to test it for leaks. It is very simple to remove. 1 torx head nut at the back side of the resonator and 1 hose clamp. Pour some hot soapy water (soap breaks down the surface tension of the water and will allow the water to flow through the smallest of holes) and look for leaks. I am sure mine developed the leak over the last year. My oil analysis has been consistent for years until now. A big jump in particle count and silica. My truck now has 98,000 miles.

Thank goodness for oil analysis. I did mine at AVLube (vendor here) and George Morrison makes himself available for questions regarding the analysis. He is a true Duramax expert when it comes to reading the "signature" of a Duramax on an oil analysis. He has helped me through MANY issues dating back to when my truck was new. When I bought it I ran the oil for 3k miles and did my first oil change. I drained 15 quarts of oil out of it!!!! It was apparently overfilled, probably at the dealership, thought they deny it. I was concerned about damage to the engine from 5 quarts overfill for 3k miles. Oil analysis from AVLube confirmed no harm done.

George also helped me when my truck was vandalized by a disgruntled employee. I had 2.5 gallons of water dumped in my fuel tank. George was the expert witness proving that the water was vandalism, not "bad fuel". George rocks. SPICER

Arlen, this may well justify a new thread with a title of "potential problem for all Duramax uncovered" or some such headline to get folks attention for this potentially damaging induction leak/failure. As I shared in my previous post, for several years now we have been alerting Duramax owners of high silicon/dirt and associated wear metals but those owners were unable to find any obvioius induction leaks and in follow-on analysis the elevated dirt/wear metals has continued... In other words, I think there are many, many Duramax with exactly the same undiscovered problem as you experienced...
Some owners may not be interested in the EaO results but certainly should be interested in a potentially engine destroying problem with a simple solution..
MY Duramax has this same issue! I have been looking at elevated silicon/dirt in it for some time and have been unable to find the dirt source...
The induction leak has been found!! Mine was not as bad as yours Arlen but the truck has *never* had satisfactory silicon used oil reorts...
George Morrison, STLE CLS

Guys, I'm assuming this part is only on the Duramax not the 6.5?

The problem part is on the Duramax....
George

Is it possible for Spicer to post a pic of the area in question?

George also helped me when my truck was vandalized by a disgruntled employee. I had 2.5 gallons of water dumped in my fuel tank. George was the expert witness proving that the water was vandalism, not "bad fuel". George rocks. SPICER

:eek: If I found out who that "disgruntled employee" was, I'd be sure to make his day one to remember ;) I'll be taking a look at mine in a few days, when its warmer, and be taking out my "upgraded" K&N air filter to return to stock(or something like it)

These forums sure give you a lot to think about. Seems like I'll be doing oil analysis soon. Hopefully 40,000 miles and 4,000 mile oil changes have been kind to me, rotella and wix filters. How often for oil analysis?

Arlen, this may well justify a new thread with a title of "potential problem for all Duramax uncovered" or some such headline to get folks attention for this potentially damaging induction leak/failure. As I shared in my previous post, for several years now we have been alerting Duramax owners of high silicon/dirt and associated wear metals but those owners were unable to find any obvioius induction leaks and in follow-on analysis the elevated dirt/wear metals has continued... In other words, I think there are many, many Duramax with exactly the same undiscovered problem as you experienced...
Some owners may not be interested in the EaO results but certainly should be interested in a potentially engine destroying problem with a simple solution..
MY Duramax has this same issue! I have been looking at elevated silicon/dirt in it for some time and have been unable to find the dirt source...
The induction leak has been found!! Mine was not as bad as yours Arlen but the truck has *never* had satisfactory silicon used oil reorts...
George Morrison, STLE CLS

George, are you saying that you did the soapy water test and found a leak also?! If so, I will certainly start a new thread somewhere (best suggestion?) and post a picture of the faulty resonator. George, do you like or have you tried the 2" PVC cap to fix the problem? Any issues by removing a resonator? Are there aftermarket intake tubes that bypass the resonator, are one piece, and use the stock air box? Thanks for your help! Arlen.

The intake resonator is the Black Box sitting on top of the engine that has the big 6.6 L embossed on it.

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=54318&d=1200623271

I'm glad you found the leak Spicer, but I'll have to agonize for a little while longer until I can see the results of the particle count :p:

Arlen,
We did the quick Gorilla Duct Tape fix in that we did not have time to do the warm soapy water test to confirm the leak; the truck is on the move from 8 to ? daily.. I am certain that the resonator leak is the issue with our Duramax in that we have leak checked every potential induction leak point possible with ether, with the exception of the area around the resonator and have found nothing and the elevated dirt/wear metals has continued. Do you know how frustrating that is for a person who is constantly striving for the perfect oil analysis for customers, only to have his own vehicle quietly destructing itself with no solution, no dirt source identified???????

As your warm soapy test simulated, once the underhood warms up, the plastic may separate. We are going to drop the oil asap and then pull samples, and post.. We have just had too many unsolved Duramax induction leaks Arlen.
We will do the Arlen test asap but Gorilla Tape is our first & immediate defense....
George Morrison

I am so glad I have had a sample done once a year without showing this issue on mine, In 2006 silica was 13 ppm and 2007 I silica was 8 ppm (I went back to OEM filter)

The scary thing is the timing. I had no leaks as evidenced by my oil analysis for 82,000 miles. Then all of a sudden I see a big jump in silica. The leak developed very recently, and I can say for certain I have not TOUCHED the resonator even once. The heat/cold must have fatigued it over time. In other words, you can check yours today and find nothing, and check it in a month and have a significant leak!

Here the the actual analysis numbers:

miles: 82,000....... 97,702
silica: 7ppm....... 25ppm
particles >4 microns
....... 153....... 1039
particles >6 microns
....... 83....... 566
particles >14 microns
....... 14....... 966
ISO... 14/14/11... 17/16/14

SPICER

Good catch, Spicer! Now I've got something else to check. Better yet, I think I'll remove the potentially defective resonator and cap it off.

Good catch, Spicer! Now I've got something else to check. Better yet, I think I'll remove the potentially defective resonator and cap it off.

I am not quite sold on the cap idea yet. Has anyone had oil analysis with a capped resonator that has been in place for an extended period? I just feel that it is not a perfect fit and could pose a leak problem also. I have had to tighten mine a couple times already. If I can grab the cap and get it to twist on the resonator, then it is too loose for me.

I have wondered about using epoxy or silicone caulk on the resonator/cap, allowing it to cure, then applying the hose clamp.

It was crazy cold today and when I checked the cap I could twist it around on the resonator. It could be that the extreme cold has caused the cap to contract and make it looser on the resonator. If this is the case, it may be a less than perfect fit for capping.

I would like to know if there is a solid, 1 piece aftermarket intake that will still allow me to use the stock airbox and/or filter. Anyone? SPICER

Great catch on the resonator leak Arlen. First you convinced me to run a paper filter, then to mix bio diesel with my fuel and now this. Your hard work is once again appreciated....:D

Regarding the clamp for the cap what if you were to use a constant torque or spring clamp to control thermal expansion. Also there may be a more thermally stable material that can be used for the cap itself.

Great catch on the resonator leak Arlen. First you convinced me to run a paper filter, then to mix bio diesel with my fuel and now this. Your hard work is once again appreciated....:D

Regarding the clamp for the cap what if you were to use a constant torque or spring clamp to control thermal expansion. Also there may be a more thermally stable material that can be used for the cap itself.

I like the constant torque clamp, but where do I get those?

I want to know how an oil analysis looks with the cap. Just seems a little less than ideal to me.

I pulled my intake off tonight to play with some ideas. SPICER

I got my garage set up with pictures. Get a load of this! Pictures of the leaky resonator and my latest fix......

I did not like the fit of the PVC cap, so I went to the local hardware store and found a plug system.

The intake had to be removed in order to install the plug. Part of it installs from the inside of the intake tubing. I am anal so I also used a dab of RTV silicone to seal the plug. Certainly totally unnecessary, but it made me feel better. Check it out in my garage. SPICER
___________

You don't think that will split the intake?
Here's a pic of the cap I had on my LB7 for a while. IIRC it was very tight and I thought the clamp was over kill at the time.

http://dieselplace.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=609&d=1103251048

I use the exact one as Spicer does.

I havent checked the tightness in a while though. I guess I should. I do have my resonator placed over the top too even know the hole is plugged. It looks factory.

I keep telling everyone those resonators were bad news but yet there was always those who disagree.

Spicer, I think aFe makes a tube that mates to the factory air box. Might look there. -Murph

Can anyone explain the purpose of this resonator? Presumably, the engineers placed it on the engine for a purpose, so I question the wisdom of blocking it off.

Go to the thread on the same topic, but found in the First Generation Duramax forum. Someone posted there with an article regarding the resonators. It is for sound dampening and there is no problem going without it.

Nick, I plan to keep the resonator off for a while so I can monitor the plug. I do have a small fear of it cracking the intake. I may look for a thin hose clamp that I can put over the outside of the intake to compress/prevent cracking. I would jump on a new intake system that was 1 piece and didn't require any specific air filter. SPICER

I looked at the AFE website. It looks like the intake systems either have a hole for the resonator or you must buy the entire intake, airbox and all, requiring the use of an AFE filter. Anyone know different? SPICER

I use the exact one as Spicer does.

I havent checked the tightness in a while though. I guess I should. I do have my resonator placed over the top too even know the hole is plugged. It looks factory.

I keep telling everyone those resonators were bad news but yet there was always those who disagree.

Nick, I was just looking at mine and decided by biggest fear was the wing nut coming loose and allowing the bolt to drop into the turbo:eek:!! So I took a long nail and a hammer and bent the threads on the nut right next to the wing nut. Now the wing nut cannot back out. Next I will put it outside (it is about 0 F right now, -14 wind chill) and see if it is still tight at this temp. Then, take a deep breath, run outside and install it, run back in and sit next to the wood burner:D.

BTW, Before I installed this plug I took a good long look at the cap that I took off. The cap is about 1/8 inch inside diameter LARGER than the outside diameter of the resonator hole we are trying to plug. This is why the cap needed to be "squeezed down" to fit the opening. Not a great fit in my opinion. You can see the deformity of the cap that I took off, look in my garage and see the picture. This plug is a much better fit. SPICER

I like both the qwik cap and plumbers plug ideas. Especially the plumbers plug idea simply due to being able to reinstall the resonator. Once out of warranty it really wouldn't matter though. I will likely drill a hole just above the wing nut to install a safety pin for added protection.

I know it's a little early to tell but has anyone had cracking issues with the 06 and later models? The resonators on these are completely redesigned.

Arlen, I hear you with the temps. Cant do much productive outside in the winter months.

I'm thinking abouyt maybe just a small tack weld to keep it from sliding anywhere. I suppose that would be a good permanent fix.

Arlen, do you also notice the intake is a bit throatier? On a stock truck, I think it makes a difference with sound but others with a full exhaust would never notice it.

Arlen, I hear you with the temps. Cant do much productive outside in the winter months.

I'm thinking abouyt maybe just a small tack weld to keep it from sliding anywhere. I suppose that would be a good permanent fix.

Arlen, do you also notice the intake is a bit throatier? On a stock truck, I think it makes a difference with sound but others with a full exhaust would never notice it.

Maybe a tiny bit at certain rpm's, but in general I notice no difference. Now that I got the intake back in place and am sitting by the fire, I feel a lot more confident in this plug over the cap. Just a better fit. By taking the intake off, sliding the plug in from the inside of the intake, and then placing the top metal plate from the plug (and the washer and wing nut) on from the outside of the intake, the system is LOCKED in place. There is a small rim on the resonator hole that makes it hard if not impossible to slide the plug in from the outside. Once you take the plug apart, it can be slid in from inside the intake. The rubber on the plug will seat against the rim on the resonator opening. Now the top plate of the plug goes on, then the washer, then the wing nut. SEALED! SPICER

Yet another high silicon sample!!!

Just got my analysis results back today and to my surprise I had a high silicon content in my oil. Results attached below......

During this interval I was running the stock Donaldson air filter, Amsoil Ea oil filter, and Oil Guard bypass. I'll check all areas when I return home. Starting with the air intake system.

Here is the note from AV Lube:

Tom:
Attached is the UOA for your truck. Suggest a thorough inspection of
the air
intake system for possible leak site(s).
Thanks for continuing to use AV Lubes and Predictive Maintenance for
your
oil testing needs.
Joe

A bear, I am far from an expert, but I have done quite a few oil samples for customers and over the years I have noticed a pretty strong correlation between sodium and potassium being precursors to anti freeze showing up soon and I believe silicon silicate is an additive in anti freeze which might explain why your count isn't going down. I realize that both substances are also additives in some lubricating oils, but I very seldom see a level above zero in the reports. Just an opinion. There are others on this forum who are much smarter than me.

Lynn

I looked at the AFE website. It looks like the intake systems either have a hole for the resonator or you must buy the entire intake, airbox and all, requiring the use of an AFE filter. Anyone know different? SPICER

I think you guys are talking about this:

hxxp://www.realtruck.com/productline/1154/1/1/afe_torque_booster_air_intake_tube.html

change the xx's to tt's didnt want to post a direct link, but I think this is what you guys are talking about....does not look like it will fit the stock intake.

On a side note, a few years back I purchased a dodge dakota with the 4.7L gas engine, a pretty handy guy on one of the dodge forums came up with a tube to attach high flow filters too, it did not seem like it was that hard to do, maybe somebody handy with metal could make one, bend it to fit add some silicone couplers on either end?

A bear, I am far from an expert, but I have done quite a few oil samples for customers and over the years I have noticed a pretty strong correlation between sodium and potassium being precursors to anti freeze showing up soon and I believe silicon silicate is an additive in anti freeze which might explain why your count isn't going down. I realize that both substances are also additives in some lubricating oils, but I very seldom see a level above zero in the reports. Just an opinion. There are others on this forum who are much smarter than me.

Lynn

I'm still using Dexcool which is silicate free so I'm thinking the high silicon levels are coming from an air leak as indicated by the lab. The sodium levels do appear to be in line with other reports I've seen on diesel engine oil but the potassium content has me a little concerned. I've been watching this one close and so far it appears to be getting a little better but is by no means as low as it should be. I'm actually surprised the lab didn't comment on the potassium level. I've never seen potassium readings that high on any Duramax running the same oil brands??? As soon as I can check for air leaks I'll share my findings. I'm glad Spicer and George brought the potential air leaks to our attention. :)