which I promised to post some time ago is now here. The start is a posting of 6 pages from the service manual which show how to remove and install the ZF6 tranny. A later post will be specific to a CPMac dual disc puller.

here:

If you can not read or print these PM me with your e-mail address and I will try to send some larger files . . . .

tomorrow I will try to finish this post with some specifics for Craigs kit ....

Sorry this took so long to get to. Busy at work. The clutch and flywheel are working great now. Please PM me if you need any answers. Once you get the trany out here are the tasks in order (at least as I remember):

1 Un-boltand remove the pressure plate and the clutch disk.
2 Use a 14mm allen wrench (a socket driver with ratchet will be necessary to torque on the install) to remove the eight bolts which hold the DMF.
3 Suggest wiping out the inside of the bell housing and any parts covered with clutch dust to avoid getting dust in your eyes during the install.
3 Examine the Macs Performance kit closely and count the shims to ensure that each bolt has the same number of shims. Mark each of the discs with an "up" on the side facing the back of the truck as you disassemble the kit to ensure you reassemble it correctly. If a dual disk kit notice that the shims for the floater plate are .010" compared to .020" for the pressure plate shims.
4 Remove the pressure plate and the clutch discs (and the the floater plate). Suggest leave the shims on the studs and bolts (in the correct order) to keep the correct shims in the correct location and from getting lost.
5 Check the back side of the SMF from Craig. There is a small alignment hole. Measure the inside diameter of the hole and then the OD of the alignment pin (back of crank shaft). Is the hole size correct for the pin diameter? If not drill the hole to the correct diameter. (For what ever reason my alignment hole was too small and had to drill it out a bit. May have been a result of original misalignment the first time we bolted it on).
5 When installing the flywheel, I found it best to use only three bolts to start: one on either side of the alignment point and one directly opposite. The flywheel is heavy so I lifted it up and started each of the three bolts. This provided support for the pin alignment. This is pretty important. Tighten the three 14mm allen head bolts just enough until the flywheel is fully seated.
6 Rotate the flywheel to ensure that it is installed properly. If the flywheel wobbles when rotated the alignment pin and the alignment hole are not aligned correctly or the flywheel is not completely seated. Disconnect, remove, examine the alignment hole, and if necessary clean the hole with a drill bit (don't be to aggressive!).
7 If the flywheel rotates evenly, install the remaining 14mm allen head bolts and tighten them the same way you do wheel lug nuts. Use a prybar or large screw driver to anchor the flywheel while you use a torque wrench to tighten the eight allen head bolts.
8 Torque the allen head bolts to 59 ft lbs. Then turn each bolt two more flats. Once done, turn each bolt two more flats! (likely that you won't get all the way to the end on any - not to worry).
9 Remove the bolts for the floater plate (don't lose any shims) and put the first disc against the flywheel and then the floater plate. Use the pilot bearing alignment tool that came with the kit to help hold the 1st disc in place while attaching the floater plate to the flywheel. The spacers go against the flywheel and then the shims.
10 While holding the disc in proper 'alignment' with the floater plate, tighten the three bolts (go thru the 3 flex fingers attached to the floater plate) to 25 ft. lbs.
11 Remove the 12 point nuts but leave the stand-offs and shims, and remove the pilot bearing alignment tool.
12 Hold up the 2nd clutch disc and slide the pressure plate up against the floater and re-insert the pilot bearing alignment tool to hold the second disc and pressure plate. Install the 12 point nuts and torque to 30 ft lbs.

Note: With a dual disc kit the floater will be in between the two discs. Make sure discs and floater are installed with the "up" mark towards the back of the truck. The floater flex fingers will be bolted to the flywheel in three places (see pic below). Put the bolts thru the flex fingers, slide the shims on the bolts, then the stand-offs. Then insert the bolts into the flywheel.

Put the tranny back on.

Hope this helps !!

flywheel - the studs you see are for the pressure plate atachment. Look carefully and you will notice one of the holes for the floater plate bolt.

floater - three flex fingers. It is sitting on top of the two discs . . . .

of the floater - this goes to the front.

this is the front side of the secont disc. Goes on back side of floater facing forward. It wore pretty skinny . . .

this is the front disc showing the side facing the floater (back).

inside of the pressure plate. Obviously this whole kit has been used.

removing this is necessary if your truck is not lifted, and makes it easier to remove and re-install the tranny, anyhow.

who invented this toy . . .and filled his eyes with dust under my truck !!

at a dyno day . . .

If any questions let me know. Has anyone been able to view the original posts of the Helm manual ??

I printed them out for future reference. Some of the parts are a little hard to read but if you have a general idea about the process you can figure it all out. Thanks for doing the legwork in putting this together. By the way you coming up to AK anytime soon to help me install my kit? J/K Have some friends that will be installing mine when we can all get together.

I will be installing Creg's clutches in Ohio for any one who might be closer to ohio than Missori. Pm me or call 937 603 4070 Thanks, Evan Davis

I will also be pulling at the indoor pull in Il if any one is going.. I will see you there and make plans for an install or adjestment.