How difficult is it to remove and replace the front, passenger side split axle from a '95, 2500 Diesel Burb 4X4? My CV boot is split in half, and would rather replace the entire axle, CV’s, boots and all for $100 then just the boot for $25.

I took a look at the procedure in Chilton and it certainly seems easy enough. The only potential issue I could see, was trying tighten the outer nut to 173 ft/lbs. Any tips?

Breaking that nut loose Is the biggest problem I have come across. If you have a really good impact that will break it losse then your home free, if not then I also break it loose before jacking the truck up, using the transmission and E-brake to help hold the truck still while breaking it loose. Use a long breaker bar with a good 1/2" or bigger socket and it will come loose. Do final torquing after you put the wheel back on the ground too.

I would also spray some loosening fluid on the 3 bolts that hold the "hub" in place. I had a hard time removing mine. A believe a 17mm 6 point socket is required to remove the hub nuts. I would break the axle nut loose, jack up truck and remove tire, caliper and rotor, then spray the hub bolts. (Loylds Moovit works well) Go for a beer. Allow the loosening fluid some time to work. Remove the 3 hub bolts and hub and then the axleshaft. You need to have a good breaker bar and a suitable piece of pipe to increase your leverage. Make sure to re-torque your axle shaft nut to 180 ft pounds (that's hat my shop manual says anyway.) I did mine after re-assembly, with the tire on the ground. Dan

the 8 lug trucks have 4 hub bolt's but I've found it easier to knock the upper ball joint out of the spindle to get the cv out. IMO just change the boot if that's all that's bad $20 NAPA and you don't even need the special tool to install the boot retaining straps.

Steelydan,

By hub nuts, are you referring to the inner split axle that connects to the front diff? When I looked at the procedure in Chilton I do not recall seeing where it is necessary to remove the rotor, caliper and outer hub, but maybe I am missing something. By the way, what is the size of the outside axle shaft nut?

Both 1/2 and (3/4-1 ton front ends) have 6 bolts(not interchangeable) holding the half shaft to the diff. at the other end where the spindle and bearing are located the bearing is mounted to the spindle with 3 bolts on 1/2 ton(6 lug wheels), 4 on other(8 lug wheels). The axle shaft nut is 36mm (1/2 and 1 ton) Autozone loaned it for free to get the job done without buying one. From this point down I only know 1/2 ton for certain. I don't remember if I had to remove the caliper but it couldn't hurt to get it out of the way 2 10mm allens removes the caliper then the rotor just slides off the lug nuts. If you decide to just change the boot all you have to do is cut off the old boot then you will see a slot in the CV where a flathead screwdriver goes in spread a snap ring and the axle slides right out. I've crunched a couple of half shaft's and gone the $150 route to fix so I considered myself lucky when I only had to replace a boot(It's super easy and you might not even have to remove the CV from the differential end).

Remove the lower shock bolt and swing the shock out of the way. The whole axle will come out very easy. After you crack all the bolts loose, spindle nut and the 6 iner flange bolts jack the truck up and slide the half shaft out. I just did mine as the boots were junk and the new shafts are cheap enough.