Hi Folks,

Going to switch from Pri-D to Stanadyne (don't want to give GM any excuses if I have injector or any other problems!.) I was searching on the web, and found that Stanadyne sells it's performance blend in 8 oz bottles - good for 1 shot of 30 gallons. I have 2 questions.

1) I saw on one web site that the 8 oz bottle "has a different formulation" than the larger bottles. Anyone know if this is actually true, and what the difference is? It was NOT Stanadyne's site.

2) With the tank on my short bed crew cab, I'm never buying more than 20-25 gallons at a time. I would guess there is no problem dumping in a bit extra of the stanadyne - is this also true?

I'm taking a long trip with my son, his friend and 2 dogs all by myself in february. Want total ease of operation, and just throwing a small bottle in the tank at every fill w/o measuring will be great.

Thanks,

Steve

On Stanadyne's website is the brouchure for their additives
http://www.stanadyne.com/new/ppt/showfile.asp?id=501 (http://www.stanadyne.com/new/ppt/showfile.asp?id=501)


Near the bottom of the second page is the note, "*Special formulation ratio for "One Shot" application." I've always taken this to mean it's slightly more concentrated in the One Shot.


At the bottom of the same page is the note, "All Stanadyne Diesel Fuel Additives can be blended with each other and “double-dosing” is not damaging — although it may not provide twice the benefit."

I buy the pints and add a third of a bottle at each fill-up. The One Shots are more expensive.

Hi Gary - when you say 1/3 of a bottle, do you just dump it in, or do you actually measure with a measuring cup? I know you really don't have to be all that precise - just curious

Steve

I use the pint bottles also. The side has markings on it to show what you use. It's marked in gallons & oz. one bottle is for 60 gallons. I just put in a little less than 1/2. I don't think this has to be an exact science.

A trick that I found that makes it easy to add at the pump:
I saved the empty pint bottles and just refill them up to slightly less than 1/2. This leaves plenty of space that allows you to tip the bottle right into the filler without having to use a funnel. Really easy @ the pump!

I now purchase the 1/2 gallon bottles and 1/2 refill the pint bottles. The 1/2 gallon bottles are a lot less.

Thanks, Brian

I fill up the one shot bottle s as well. They are nice and small and fit nicely in my tool box. When I fill up, I dump 1 in. Very easy and a no-brainer.
Ben

Hi Gary - when you say 1/3 of a bottle, do you just dump it in, or do you actually measure with a measuring cup? I know you really don't have to be all that precise - just curious

Steve I just eye-ball it based on the markings on the side of the bottle. A whole pint bottle treats 60 gallons of fuel. I typically pump 18 - 22 gallons at a fill-up, so I figure that adding a third of a bottle each time is close enough.

One of these days, I'll install one of those 60 gallon Supertanks to match the pint bottles of Stanadyne. :)

):h I just dump 1/2 bottle in

Thats funny..."(don't want to give GM any excuses if I have injector or any other problems!.)"

Its my opinion that IT WILL cause injector problems.

My neighbor had tons of rust/water from using that additive.

Use a emulifier instead.

Thats funny..."(don't want to give GM any excuses if I have injector or any other problems!.)"

Its my opinion that IT WILL cause injector problems.

My neighbor had tons of rust/water from using that additive.

Use a emulifier instead.
I've been running stanadyne for nearly a year now. Changed my pre-filter several times, no water, no rust. I've changed the OEM once, no water, no rust. The issue I have with folks saying stanadyne causes the water to come out and then causes rust is how do you know the rust wasn't there to start with? You don't see it until you cut the can open. hmmmmm.

I buy my fuel from several different stations in town and where-ever when traveling.

And as for rust, what about all the rust picked up in distribution? I'm sure plenty is picked up there.

Jim

Steve:
If you haven't already bought it, I have a case of Stanadyne ONE SHOT Performance Formula that I would give you a deal on. The case is 24 of the 8oz bottles. I wound up using FPPF and have enough of that to last for years, so the case of Stanadyne is just sitting here collecting dust.
If interested send me a PM & we can figure out something.

I've been using a half bottle everytime I fill up. It's a little over the exact recommendations but there's no harm according to Stanadyne. I have transfer flows fill neck so putting it in is no problem. Change my fuel filter at every oil change (5000miles). It's been squeeky clean every time. I've been paranoid about dirty fuel from this site but I've had no problem. I'm thinking of extending my oil change to 10,000 (oil filter at 5000) & also going 10,000 on the fuel filter. 22K or so on the truck.

Thanks guys - I will go with the pint bottles. I thimk the idea of refilling them half full is excellent. As for stanadyne causing problems - what can I say - seems the majority of folks who post here use at least somke kind of addative. I know it is a bit contraversial as to whether it is better to emulsify water or dry. Since the end result is uncertain, I;d rather go with a product that won't give me any problems when warranty work comes along. I have seen scary posts of GM shops demanding fuel samples prior to warrenty work.

Steve

Diesel Engine - Fuel System Additive Recommendations
File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System

Bulletin No.: 03-06-04-017

Date: March, 2003

INFORMATION

Subject:
Information on Diesel Fuel Additives Models:
1994-1996 Chevrolet Chevy G-Van, Sport Van
1994-1999 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe, P Chassis
1994-2000 Chevrolet C/K 1500, 2500 Models
1994-2002 Chevrolet C/K 3500 Model
1996-2002 Chevrolet Express
2001-2003 Chevrolet Silverado
1997-2003 Chevrolet F Model (T Series) Medium Duty Tilt Cab
1999-2003 Chevrolet W Series Medium Duty Tilt Cab
2000-2003 Chevrolet WT5500 Model Medium Duty Tilt Cab
2003 Chevrolet 4500, 5500 Series Medium Duty Trucks
1994-1996 GMC G-Van (Rally Wagon, Vandura)
1994-1997 GMC Yukon
1994-1999 GMC Suburban, P Chassis
1994-2000 GMC C/K 1500, 2500 Models
1994-2002 GMC C/K 3500 Model
1996-2002 GMC Savana
2001-2003 GMC Sierra
1997-2003 GMC F Model (T Series) Medium Duty Tilt Cab
1999-2003 GMC W Series Medium Duty Tilt Cab
2000-2003 GMC WT5500 Model Medium Duty Tilt Cab
2003 GMC 4500, 5500 Series Medium Duty Trucks
1997-2003 Isuzu FSR, FTR, FVR Model Medium Duty Tilt Cabs
1999-2003 Isuzu NPR, NQR Model Medium Duty Tilt Cabs
2000-2003 Isuzu FRR Model Medium Duty Tilt Cab
with 6.5L, 6.6L, 7.2L or 7.8L Diesel Engine (VINs F, P, S, Y, 1, B, 3 - RPOs L65, L49, L56, L57, LB7, LC8, LG4) The use of diesel fuel additives is not required or recommended for the 6.5L diesel or the 6.6L Duramax(R) Diesel engine under normal conditions. The filtering system is designed to block water and contaminants without the use of additives. However, some customers may desire to use fuel additives to improve the characteristics of available diesel fuels.

Water Emulsifiers and Demulsifiers

If the customer desires to use a fuel additive, care must be taken in its selection. There are two common methods that fuel additives use to cope with water in the fuel. One method is through demulsification of water in the fuel. This method causes water particles to combine together to form larger particles, which drop out of suspension. This allows the fuel filter (http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AFI%7EV4240951%7EC36280%7ER0%7EOD%7EN/0/86372027/86372028/86372041/87577232/34853741/100411974/34853743/58828688)/water separator to separate the water from the fuel as it is designed to. The other method of coping with water in the fuel is through emulsification. This method, often using alcohol as the emulsifier, keeps water particles suspended in the fuel. Emulsification of water in the fuel can allow water to get past the fuel filter/water separator, in most cases causing damage to the fuel system.

Only alcohol free water demulsifiers should be used in General Motors diesel engines. Both *Racor(R) and *Stanadyne(R) diesel fuel additives are alcohol free and utilize water demulsifiers to cope with water in the fuel. Other brands may be available in different areas; be sure that they clearly state that they are alcohol free demulsifiers before use.

*We believe these sources and their products to be reliable. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or assume any responsibility for the products from these firms or for any such items which may be available from other sources.

COMMON DIESEL FUEL CONCERNS Fuel Waxing/Icing

Fuel distributors blend # 1 and # 2 diesel fuels for seasonal requirements in a particular region. No other blending of fuels is recommended. However, a customer may desire to use a winter fuel additive to prevent fuel waxing or icing during extreme cold snaps. If a winter fuel additive is to be used, it should not contain alcohol or other water emulsifiers that may compromise the water removal effectiveness of the fuel filtering system.

Bacteria and Fungi Growth

Bacteria and fungi growth can occur in diesel fuel when there is water present, especially during warmer weather. The best prevention against bacteria and fungi growth is to use clean fuel that is free of water. There are diesel fuel biocides available which are designed to kill bacterial growth in the fuel system. However, the dead bacteria can still cause blockages throughout the fuel system. If bacterial growth is found in the fuel system, the proper method of removal is to flush the fuel system using Service Manual procedures, replace the fuel filter (http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AFI%7EV4240951%7EC36280%7ER0%7EOD%7EN/0/86372027/86372028/86372041/87577232/34853741/100411974/34853743/58828688) element, and refill the tank with clean diesel fuel. If a customer desires to use a biocide after flushing the fuel system, it should not contain alcohol or other water emulsifiers.

Low Cetane Number

The cetane number is one indicator of a diesel fuel's ability to ignite. There are many indicators of overall fuel quality such as cleanliness, specific gravity, volatility, viscosity, detergency, corrosion inhibiting abilities, and lubricity. Increasing the celane number alone is not a fix for poor quality fuel. Additionally, increasing the cetane number beyond the engine's requirements will not increase performance. However, the cetane number of diesel fuel is not always consistent and some customers may desire to use a cetane improver to ensure full performance of their engine. If such an additive is to be used, it must not contain alcohol or other water emulsifiers.

Poor Lubricity

The 6.5L diesel and the 6.6L Duramax(R) Diesel engines are designed to operate on today's low sulfur fuel without the use of additives. A fuel additive designed to increase lubricity is not a fix for poor quality or contaminated fuel, but some customers may desire to use a lubricity additive to aid in the longevity of their fuel system components. If such an additive is to be used, it must not contain alcohol or other water emulsifiers.

FUEL SOURCE ISSUES

If a vehicle is properly maintained but has fuel contamination issues, consider obtaining fuel from a different source. Purchasing fuel from a high volume fuel retailer increases the chance that the fuel is fresh and of good quality. :D

I use the small bottles - Performance Formula 8oz.- add one at every fill up. Get mine from:

http://www.scheiddiesel.com/stanadyne.htm

2004 GMC 2500HD Ext. Cab Long Box ; Duramax (LB7)/Allison; GMC bed liner; Air Lift Super Duty air bags; Michelin LT265/75-R16 LTX M/S ; Luverne Running boards; Bilsteinshocks; Isspro gauges; Racor frame mount fuel pre-filter.

I've gone thru a case of Performance Formula in pint bottles. No problems, but switched to Performance Formula Jr. It's a little cheaper, and goes further (i.e. 1/4 pt. to a fill-up). I've found NO difference in the way my truck runs or the condition of my fuel filters ( changed every 10k miles ) ! I'm not sure how GM would feel about the switch, though. :rolleyes:

I don't really need the winter protection, and as far as the cetane....no difference in how the truck runs.

I use my own specially formulated weasel piss which is far superior to any product available to the public today. While weasel piss can really do wonders for the D-Max, I must warn you all that collecting the weasel piss from the weasel is a bit difficult.

In fact, I've quit carrying the weasel in my toolbox to avoid the mess at the pumps. Now I just collect a few drops and store it in an eye dropper inside my toolbox.

This stuff is so concentrated that only a few drops will flat vaporize any water in the fuel system.

If you're interested, I suggest visiting your local weasel farm.

coyot'e ~ sounds like you may've skinned a few nauga's in you day :-)

In my '99 6.5TD Tahoe I ran Stanadyne Performance Formula religiously. I bought cases of the 1 pt. bottles and put 1/2 bottle in every fillup which was a bit of "overtreat" for the 24 to 25 gals that entailed. I trusted and used the Stanadyne because the 6.5 had a Stanadyne fuel pump. In my DMax, I use FPPF Total Power in every fillup. I buy cases of quarts and put it in a cleaned-out Sta-Bil measuring squeeze bottle. I put 4 oz. in my aux tank at every 32 gal fill and 3 oz. in my main tank at every 24 gal fill. This is also "overtreat" as the FPPF is recommended at 1 oz. to 10 gals.

Use stanadyne p/f NEVER any rust or water! Truck seems to run a little better and never have to worry about cold weather

Try FP60 (Fuel Power) www.lubecontrol.com (http://www.lubecontrol.com) and you'll NEVER use these other products again. FP60 will do all you need.

You'll also be supporting a site vendor ;)