thought this might help anyone wanting a low budget "turbo master"
last night i decided to make my own turbo master by caniblizing the vacume actuator... and i was surprised how cheap and easy it was! started out at home depot for some home improvment stuff, and wound up getting some automotive equipment too:D
shopping list for this project; 1 short length of 5/16" threaded rod at least 6" long, 1 tiny nut from junk bin, 3 5/16 nuts, 1 fender washer, and a set of springs (7/8" dia.x4" L. from the gate hardware section,
first thing is to remove the e-clip from the wastegate then remove the 2 12mm bolts holding the vacume actautor to the side of the turbo, take the whole assembly to the bench grinder and grind around the rib holding the top and bottom of the vacume can together...(!!!DO NOT CUT THE CANASTER FROM THE BRACKET!!!) now you should be able to see the vacume diaphram and piston inside the can you will notice where the actuator rod is pressed through and then mushroomed over to hold it in place (!!!DO NOT CUT THE ACTUATOR ROD FROM THE PISTON!!!) gently grind the mushroomed end and tap the rod out with a hammer and drift, once removed you will see the tip of the actuator rod is reduced in size, i tack-welded a tiny nut onto the reduced portion of the actuator rod (from the junk bin so i dont know the exact size), and then tack-welded a 5/16 nut to that, finish welded everything making sure it was centered and straight.(!!!MAKE SURE THE MOUNTING BRACKET IS ON THE ACTUATOR ROD BEFORE WELDING ANYTHING!!!) grind all the nuts and welds smooth installed my 5/16 threaded rod and cut it to 6" length (more than enough length) install the spring, fender washer, and5/16 nut, add the second 5/16 nut, check proper travel of the new assembley approxamatly 1.5" of travel, remount on the turbo, adjust boost pressure add the last 5/16 nut as a jamb nut (or substitute the last two nuts for a locking type) and enjoy!!! i did the whole project in about an hour (less adjustments...) :cool: the spring package i got from home depot were rated at 24.80lbs... a pretty weak for this applicaton but all they had so i left the rod long incase i need a stronger spring we'll see! good luck, Jimmy

:nopics:

:nopics:

Jimmy need some pics

the one i made was 3.20 in parts and less than an hour with no welding as not everyone has a welder. and that includes me. here is the link to the one i made. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67572 i now have a heath t/m which bill heath gave me free, don't ask it's a long story. i will say i like the heath t/m as it operates similarily but differently in that it holds boost more consistently. Ed

I made mine the same as edzzed with a 1/4-20 eye bolt and assorted nuts, washers and bolts. I felt that the solid bolt on the WG lever with the eyebolt and spacers would have a smoother motion then the all-thread bent into a 90. My bracket is just as crude(but effective):D as edzzed's and I can tune my boost down to 1/2 PSI.

Wh
At Is This Supposed To Do????

Wh
At Is This Supposed To Do????on the "F" engine it allows you to lose about 5lbs of dead weight. that would be the vacuum pump and wastegate actuator. on an "S" engine it allows you to lose about 1 1/2 lbs as you still need the vacuum pump to do the egr crapola. doing the t/m also allows for better adjustment of the boost and what it will hold. factory drops boost off from 11 ish to about 4-5 lbs even when towing. t/m solves that. Ed

The spring I used was rated at 24lbs also, but it was about 5 inches long unloaded. I only put it on a few days ago but so far it has worked great with only one initial adjustment....Held a steady 14lbs tonight climbing a steep grade unloaded but I got off it quick (no pyro yet)......

Side note...I just pulled the vac pump off a few hours ago...Threw a code immediately but I havent checked which one yet....Is there something Im unaware of? Do I need to fool the ecm that the wastegate solenoid exists when it doesnt? Didnt throw a code with just the t/m, only after the vac pump removal.....

Wh
At Is This Supposed To Do????

Nothing for the DMAX in your sig, this is a 6.5 applicable mod

The spring I used was rated at 24lbs also, but it was about 5 inches long unloaded. I only put it on a few days ago but so far it has worked great with only one initial adjustment....Held a steady 14lbs tonight climbing a steep grade unloaded but I got off it quick (no pyro yet)......

Side note...I just pulled the vac pump off a few hours ago...Threw a code immediately but I havent checked which one yet....Is there something Im unaware of? Do I need to fool the ecm that the wastegate solenoid exists when it doesnt? Didnt throw a code with just the t/m, only after the vac pump removal.....

Nothing in the system for a L65 sensing loss of vac, probably the conditions were right for the overboost code @14 psi to kick in back off your spring a touch, or make a fooler to lie to PCM how much boost you are making, best bet is a reflash so you get extra fuel to go with the boost.

L56 however needs vac supplied still as vac supply vs vac vent on EGR is how PCM regulates EGR function vac can't be eliminated on the L56s

here is my cheap version, just need a battery hold down rod, and a small piece of plate metal,

http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=145660

Nothing in the system for a L65 sensing loss of vac, probably the conditions were right for the overboost code @14 psi to kick in back off your spring a touch, or make a fooler to lie to PCM how much boost you are making, best bet is a reflash so you get extra fuel to go with the boost.

L56 however needs vac supplied still as vac supply vs vac vent on EGR is how PCM regulates EGR function vac can't be eliminated on the L56s

Well light turned on as soon as I satrted w/o ac pump, before the truck ever saw 14 psi.....I will back it off a touch tho.
Code was a P1656 Fuel level output circuit malfunction, dunno what that is...

My t/m looks a lot like nickg's, just the vertical type:

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/garageimage.php?do=full&p=49569&d=1199676531

That's a good job man, how's it work for ya? Give the turbo any more whistle?

And as a side note, as anyone with a boost gauge just hooked the vac hose straight from the pump to the wastegate? how much boost would it build that way?

:nopics:
sorry :rolleyes: here goes...

And as a side note, as anyone with a boost gauge just hooked the vac hose straight from the pump to the wastegate? how much boost would it build that way?
just bought my truck about 2 months ago i wouldnt try it... have a feeling thats what blew my head gaskets.... thats the way vac. was piped when i bought the truck but after reading here think it was way overboosted but i had no boost gauge, the stuck thermostat didnt help...:( now i have gauges and will be setting boost to about 12psi sustained, with the fel-pro .010" thicker gaskets and probably arp studs... might as well, while i got it apart... also have a lead on a duramax "take off" exhaust either free, or real cheap if he still has it...

if the pics dont work out here i do have them up in my garage now.. again, sorry new here...

oh and nice to see someone running a similar spring pressure is getting 14psi... should be fine then for me... 12psi wont set the ses light correct???

Pics are great man. Nice job.