Well I did a complete tranny upgrade a week ago and today I driving like normal and I was nailing it pretty good and it seemed to down shift into 3rd and threw this code at me. This meaning "Pressure Control Solenoid "B" Performance or Stuck Off". Now right after we installed everything we had a problem with the soloinoid stuck on the "E" pressure valve. Once we took the valve body off and stuck a screwdriver in and it pops back from being stuck. I didn't know if this was it again or what. Before after the install it was throwing the 872 code which is different. So now once i clear the code and put it in drive it shifts through the gears fine and once to 3rd it will not go into 4th and there will a pulse and I think it limps. After that it is stuck in 3rd when in drive. So im not sure what the deal is. I don't know why this would be doing this since this is not the first time that I've really made the tranny work hard. Any thoughts would be appriciated or any expirence with this. Might give Mike or Clint a call in the mornin.

Jeremy

Back when I would limp my tranny I believe it would stay in fourth gear.
You might want to drop the valve body again and what I did was take an easy out and put it in to the back of the valve carefully and turn the valve by hand putting oil on it to loosen it back up I had several problems with getting mine to shift right after the co-pilot, I have heard of some people turning the valve with a electric drill slowly.
You can also check and see if you can feel or see a bur in valve body it's self.. and make sure you have the right valve in the A and B trim location, just another thought. That seemed to fix any problems I had with shifting issues. I also still have the transgo valve in and well at the very high HP levels it shifts quite firm when the copilot is turned up but way too hard when at minimal HP or close to stock aplications, even with the copilot at the lowest settings. I am thing about putting the stock valves back in this spring.. time will tell.
Good luck,
Jon

Never use an electric drill on valves, they are plastic. Valves should be worked back and forth (cutting fluid works well) in their own bore by hand. Once the valve feels free stroking it back and fort, turn it 45 deg and do it again till it is free and so forth.
mike

ditto on the cutting fluid, MikeL turned me on to that and it works great.

added thought, I have put in a spring at the bottom of the bore that is longer then what come out and then I can push on the valve to stroke it with a pencil, eraser end. The spring returns it for me. when done, remove the spring and reassemble