I see it talked about alot with the new body styles

Is it something you can do on out trucks? I have no idea what tbars are but If I can lift the front an inch and a half or 2 for free I would be a happy camper. Any pics of this procedure?

Yes we can do that to our trucks. After cranking them up, most will put in a 1 or 2" block in the rear also. Good idea to give it a front end allignment after the cranking also.

Yes we can do that to our trucks. After cranking them up, most will put in a 1 or 2" block in the rear also. Good idea to give it a front end allignment after the cranking also.

So how do you do it ? :o:

Where your torsion bars go to underneath the truck right at the cross member. There is a key that the bars fit into. putting tension on the key is a nut. Crank that. I cranked mine up all the way. I wouldnt recommend doing that (Bad ride, alignment shop cant align it, and its probably not good for it) but I dont care.

Take weight off and don't forget to count how many cranks, in case you want to put it back, go higher, or lower.
See attached for diagram.

So how do you do it ? :o:

If you're talking about the truck in your sig. line, then you don't have bars. Only K series have the ability to do this because they have torsion bars.

Thank you lcgarage....very good point. Make sure all the weight is off that front end first.

If you're talking about the truck in your sig. line, then you don't have bars. Only K series have the ability to do this because they have torsion bars.

I wondered how long it would take them to notice he has a 2wd, lol. Unfortunately, Regal, you have a regular A-arm with coil spring suspension and it can't be lifted without replacing suspension parts.

Opps! Your right C2500. Checked out garage too, NO 4x4 shift on floor.....not even thinking 2wd this time of year, sorry.

yep sry bud but your SOL with that C series

my bad.

You might be able to lift with taller coil springs but the geometry will not be good as far as handling,tire wear,etc. A set of 235/85/16 tires would accomplish some increase in road clearance,but slow the speedo down & affect brake GVW capacity. A set of PYO alloy wheels will make it a better head turner. IMO

Boo!

Oh well lets hope for a good tax return then :)

my buddy has a 2001 tahoe, and his friend cranked up the torsion bars, he took the truck off-roading, went around a corner too fast, and rolled it. he did say he was going to fast. but could the fact that the torsion bars were cranked have something to do with it like does it affect the way the suspension works, or was it just cuz the center of gravity was higher

You might be able to lift with taller coil springs but the geometry will not be good as far as handling,tire wear,etc. A set of 235/85/16 tires would accomplish some increase in road clearance,but slow the speedo down & affect brake GVW capacity. A set of PYO alloy wheels will make it a better head turner. IMO

Lol, that reminds me of the 80-96 Fords with TTB front ends, everyone that ran one of them lifted that such, horrible tire wear and if you had a 10 inch wide tire you'd be luck to have half that actually touching the ground.:rolleyes: I dont know who thought, that TTB was a good design.

Lol, that reminds me of the 80-96 Fords with TTB front ends, everyone that ran one of them lifted that such, horrible tire wear and if you had a 10 inch wide tire you'd be luck to have half that actually touching the ground.:rolleyes: I dont know who thought, that TTB was a good design.


This is why I don't see, or support the idea of cranking t-bars, you may get a little bit of a lift, but at what expense? Tires get half the life they should, ball joints, etc. I will never attempt it.

Just my .02

i got a 3" body lift w/ torsion bar cranking and can fit 35" tires, but im being told on another site that it's really bad on the truck but i dont know

That is what I was getting at, it screws up your whole allignment and puts a lot more stress on things like ball joints and such.

As long as you have the front end realigned, then the only thing it puts more stress on is the Torsion bars, CV-axles, and your tail bone.....Everything else is still only holding up the same amount of weight as long as it is properly realigned. The problem is most shops don't know how to align it back up properly, it takes shims, someone who knows how to set the machine up right, and willing to put about 2-3 hours with the truck.

Yeah I cranked mine up all the way and the shop said the knock outs were to far out of spec to align. So I aligned the front end by myself. 1/8th inch of toe on the front. I dont care. Havnt seen any tire wear (New Tires) and when I get out of college I am doing a solid axle with 35's. I dont drive much and so far the truck does great in the snow!!!

Yeah I cranked mine up all the way and the shop said the knock outs were to far out of spec to align. So I aligned the front end by myself. 1/8th inch of toe on the front. I dont care. Havnt seen any tire wear (New Tires) and when I get out of college I am doing a solid axle with 35's. I dont drive much and so far the truck does great in the snow!!!

yeah man same with me, i actually had to replace the u joints a couple months ago when i got the truck but the tires on mine still look new, and it's bumpier than hell though

just br careful when pulling. i had mine i 4 low on paved road. i was lil to tipsy to have my keys. well i was hooked to anther truck. you know red neck mine is beter than yours
well long story short. with you t bars cranked up you will break things in your front end. like tie rods drag link and cv joints an expensive way to provr a point it will change your ride and whe it is in 4 wheel it will put presure on thing that arnt strong enuff stock to hold it.

but you own your truck mine are cranked

cranking the bars limits downward travel. Have it aligned afterward if anyone moves the bars. No effect on ride, except for the simple fact that the front will no longer have the factory amount of downward travel. I'd not recommend more than 4 bolt turns (about an inch).

cranking the bars limits downward travel. Have it aligned afterward if anyone moves the bars. No effect on ride, except for the simple fact that the front will no longer have the factory amount of downward travel. I'd not recommend more than 4 bolt turns (about an inch).




are yours cranked? it will effect the ride and if you go all the way it will not be allinable. it will break things. thats the reason pulling trucks put tubes on the tie rods and drag links as far as your ride it will be stiffer because when you turn the bar (that is what the key is doing ) your putting more tention on it there for its giving more dowward force on lower a arm and assembly. i know this from exp. I JUST REPLACED IT ALL
its not fun and my father has a linup rack it want be perfect.

Mines are crancked, 6 bolts turn. You can see the result in my garage.
It looks nice, doesn't affect driveability but she is less comfortable now.
I will probably go back 2 bolt turn less to be at 4 , as suggested snowdrift.

i was told i must decrank mine before i get some big bills rolling in but i dont have money for smaller tires which sucks..

i was told i must decrank mine before i get some big bills rolling in but i dont have money for smaller tires which sucks..
Where are you located? I have a set I've been wanting to sell for six months now. With stock 1500 wheels even (not that you could use those). What size rims?

Where are you located? I have a set I've been wanting to sell for six months now. With stock 1500 wheels even (not that you could use those). What size rims?

16" wheels

On my truck the guy put some sort of cheap aluminum things that trist into the springs and are supposed to give it 1.5-2" of lift. Im not sure if they are still in there or not, I dont really care either. I helped him put them in and it was hard, I think they were made for something like a jeep, not a big coils spring holding up a diesel engine.

are yours cranked? it will effect the ride and if you go all the way it will not be allinable. it will break things. thats the reason pulling trucks put tubes on the tie rods and drag links as far as your ride it will be stiffer because when you turn the bar (that is what the key is doing ) your putting more tention on it there for its giving more dowward force on lower a arm and assembly. i know this from exp. I JUST REPLACED IT ALL
its not fun and my father has a linup rack it want be perfect.

Yes, mine are up a bit (5 turns) and it was aligned afterward.

A person is not adding downward force by moving the bolt, you're only changing the orientation of the bar. If you just replaced it all and missed this, then you may want to take another look at it.

I'm not familiar with the tubes on tie rods and drag links on pulling trucks, but if you're talking about tube in place of the solid rod, then you're talking about a different subject, altogether. If that is the case, then you're talking about column strength and loads being resisted from inertia in the tube vs. rod, not torsional ability.

Yes, mine are up a bit (5 turns) and it was aligned afterward.

A person is not adding downward force by moving the bolt, you're only changing the orientation of the bar. If you just replaced it all and missed this, then you may want to take another look at it.

I'm not familiar with the tubes on tie rods and drag links on pulling trucks, but if you're talking about tube in place of the solid rod, then you're talking about a different subject, altogether. If that is the case, then you're talking about column strength and loads being resisted from inertia in the tube vs. rod, not torsional ability.


when you change your setting on the bars you will change the angle on you tie rods and ball joints. all i am saying is that " in four wheel drive " you will put more stress on you front end steering parts. then if it was stock like i said earlier it your truck you pay for it and the parts you will break. - tie rods arnt solid they have to thread - stock drag links will bend - i have all mooge its life time warrenty but you still break it.

but on mine 5 turns didnt move it up so did it on yours

Mine are about cranked to the limit, not sure how many turns...Cranked, moved truck, measured wheel wells, then cranked some more. New tires and alingment done at SAME TIME and so far wear is even after 15k miles.

The guys running the newer pulling trucks use tie rod sleeves to stiffen the factory tie rods, not to compensate for the tbars being cranked, as youll notice most of them are cranked all the way DOWN when pulling.....

I will note that I have destroyed one CV axle so far, though I contribute that more to thick, sticky mud (and that anxiety attack you get when you realize your about to get stuck an hour from home with only a beaten little grand cherokee there to maybe pull you out at 2am when your wheelin where you shouldnt be), rather than extreme alignment angles......

For any 2wd guys wanting to level out the front:

http://www.suspensionconnection.com/cgi-bin/suscon/KG09100CT5.html

I had them but decided not to put them on.

when you change your setting on the bars you will change the angle on you tie rods and ball joints. all i am saying is that " in four wheel drive " you will put more stress on you front end steering parts. then if it was stock like i said earlier it your truck you pay for it and the parts you will break. - tie rods arnt solid they have to thread - stock drag links will bend - i have all mooge its life time warrenty but you still break it.

but on mine 5 turns didnt move it up so did it on yours

Yes, it moved upward about 1 1/4". Be sure to move the truck forward and backward after putting it down off the stands to let the susp. "settle"