I spent part of today gathering parts and working on replacing this seal. I replaced the driver side seal about a month ago and it went very smooth. I did have to go back to the dealership to get a replacement retaining clip because the old one broke in two as I broke the axle free.

Here are some observations that I made during the process today and wish I knew before I started. This time I not only bought the new seal but also bought a new retaining clip just in case. I disconnected the CV axle from the flange and removed the 4x4 actuator. I then hit the axle flange to disengage the retaining clip as I read you needed to do in another thread. This axle did not release as easy as the driver side but did eventually break free. I then removed the 5 bolts that connect the axle tube to the pumpkin and the 2 that connect the tube to the frame. The axle and tube were now free and I removed them from the vehicle. I placed the parts on my work bench and discovered that in the process of driving the axle free I had actually bent both the thrust washer and the other thin washer. They were now concave instead of flat like they were supposed to be. While trying to figure out why this happened I started to ask myself was it even necessary to hit the axle to break it free? Why not just remove the axle with the tube and then remove the retaining ring from the back side while the whole assembly is on the work bench? This is how I reassembled everything after I flattened the 2 washers back out. I just replaced the seal, slid the tube over the axle, installed the 2 washers and the reinstalled the retaining ring. There was no need to drive anything back together. Now all I need to do is reinstall the whole assembly on the truck tomorrow. Does anyone see any reason why the passenger side axle needs to be broken free while still on the truck?

Derek

Nope. I learned the HARD way, too. But mine went together easy but lost 4wd. The thrust washer slid in front of the fork:mad:.

x2 ^ When i first did mine i just undid the five bolts by the actuator and the two to the frame. Then used two screw drivres to spread the retaining clip enough to pull off and the axle sild right out. Its much easier to put back together also, you can put the thrust washer on the end of the axle and not have to worry about it comin off.

But mine went together easy but lost 4wd. The thrust washer slid in front of the fork:mad:.

Now you tell me!!! This happened to me also after my first post. It sucked having to take it back apart only to find the thrust washer laying there.

So are we to understand that the drivers side can be "beat" out and the passangers side is best to unbolt the axle tube? Talking with my mechanic he mentioned that he has found the easiest thing to do is to drop the front differential and do it all off the truck. What is the best procedure for doing the drivers side so a guy doesn't break the retaining clip? Doesn't the retainer clip stay inside the differential? How would you notice its broke?

Correct the driverside can be driven out with a few blows from a hammer. The clip should remain on and come out with the axle. If only part of it comes out you know it broke. I was able to use a telescoping magnet to retrieve the broke piece. It is best to unbolt and remove the passenger side tube and easier to remove if you also unbolt the bracket that is mounted to the frame rail.

I had a look at the blown up parts schematic at the stealer, and it looked like you should be able to do the drivers and passenger side the same way as the assemblies looked similar. Does the tube have to be removed or can it be "forced" out?