OK So search owns me. :lol: I cant seem to find any info on what the average turns is to get it leveled.

I plan on putting GM Green Keys on my truck and was wondering about how many turns is needed to get it leveled. (07 ccsb gmc 2500 d/a)


I know its here somewhere but search buttons and me dont agree. If Im lookin for steak its gonna show me the potatos LOL

As many times as it takes you to do it :D

You'd spend less time cranking than you would looking through here.

lol ok

If you want to keep the stock purple keys, you should be able to get level with around 9 turns per side. I think I went 8.5 RH and 9.25 LH. It was a long time ago though (47k miles)...

If you want to keep the stock purple keys, you should be able to get level with around 9 turns per side. I think I went 8.5 RH and 9.25 LH. It was a long time ago though (47k miles)...



I thought about that but if I put the keys on wont it help my ride if I put the shock extenders or the longer shocks?

green keys dont do shit and you dont need them. all you need to do is crank up the stock keys get a wheel alinement and if you want longer shocks or shock extending brackets. you will top out on big bumps though. to do it the right way get the cognito leveling kit, it basicaly gives you a long travel front end that rides better than stock, i have it on my work truck and i love it.

Nope. Won't make any difference. I have 1/2" spacers on top of my stock shocks. Works fine. All the green (read 1/2 ton) keys do is clock the T-bar hex and allow more adjust bolt to show. Height relative to the frame is the same either way as is ride.

The number of turns per inch will vary depending on the length of the keys (how long the "lever" is) and position and thread pitch of the adjusters. I couldn't tell you if they're all the same or not. It's easy enough to figure out on your truck without adding an extra step from someone else's guess that may not be exactly right for your truck.

Put in the new keys and set the bolts low. Roll the truck a few feet forward/back and bounce it to make sure you're settled. Take a measurement to start - top of the tire to the fender lip is probably easiest. Then jack it up and give both bars 10 turns in. Lower, repeat roll and bounce to settle, then measure again. Now you know how much 10 turns gives you in inches. Figure out what distance you have left to get to the height you want and level on both sides. Use the inches==turns formula you just figured out to get the final adjust number of turns for each side. Jack it up one more time and make your final adjustment. Lower, repeat roll and bounce to settle, then verify it's where you want it. I used this method on mine and got it exactly where I wanted on the final adjustment.

Don't forget to check/adjust toe when you're done - going up will make it toe in.

But by more bolt showing wont that mean I dont bottom the bolt out and thus getting a better ride? Or have I been misunderstanding what I have been reading.

the ride is the same no matter where the bolt is. all changing the bolt does is move the ride hight up or down thats it. if you keep the stock upper control arm you will top out on the bump stop that is why cognito made a new upper arm with the stop relocated to alow more travel when the front is raised. and to correct the balljoint angle and allinment issues that arise from cranking the front end. that is why guys with the ready lift or just cranked front ends are going through balljoint and tires wearing funny.

All you are doing no matter what keys are in there is putting more tension on the front springs to raise the height. All the green keys do is give you more adjustment over the stock ones. In either case the spring tension will be the same per given height.

Thomas, The distance per turns isn't linear so, for example, the 9th to 10th turn will not be at all near what the 1st to 2nd turn distance would be... but I like your way of thinking.

BTW, the caster will likely be off more than the toe when the adjustment is complete. At least that's my experience on the last 3 trucks. '03, '05' & '06.

But by more bolt showing wont that mean I dont bottom the bolt out and thus getting a better ride? Or have I been misunderstanding what I have been reading.


Brad,
Nice talking to you on the phone:beerchug:

Here is those threads we where talking about:

Shocks:
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=167885

Cranking your bars:
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1641068&postcount=7

I don't feel the Cognito kit will be right for you if you are planning on boost launching in 4wd. Your CV's will not like you:).


Nor-Cal Nick

Brad,
Nice talking to you on the phone:beerchug:

Here is those threads we where talking about:

Shocks:
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=167885

Cranking your bars:
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1641068&postcount=7

I don't feel the Cognito kit will be right for you if you are planning on boost launching in 4wd. Your CV's will not like you:).


Nor-Cal Nick


They probably wont like me anyway :p:


Good talkin to you to man. You really cleared some things up for me.

if you are planning on boost launching in 4wd. Your CV's will not like you


Nor-Cal Nick

Brad,

I wouldn't have bothered with the discussion if I'd known about the launching. You'll have to crank way down each time or you might as well get a stock of CVs on hand... Have fun!

Brad,

I wouldn't have bothered with the discussion if I'd known about the launching. You'll have to crank way down each time or you might as well get a stock of CVs on hand... Have fun!



Well if I would have known it mattered I would have mentioned it. LOL

I didnt realize it would be at that great of an angle.

Thanks for your replys anyway

Thomas, The distance per turns isn't linear so, for example, the 9th to 10th turn will not be at all near what the 1st to 2nd turn distance would be... but I like your way of thinking.
I agree - turns per inch are not linear but the variation at the extremes would not be much. It worked for me and hit the marks right on the money without having to go back and do fine adjustments.

Also: spring tension may be the same but you're approaching the top limit of travel. On mine with the bars cranked up, with the crappy stock shocks, my suspension would top out and rattle the dentures when going over bumps too fast. And that was on stock keys with the bolts bottomed, giving me about 1-3/4" lift over stock. I can only imagine that being worse using any kind of "leveling" keys to go even higher.