This is a bit of a carry-over from another thread..

I had cold start problem (no start) and eventually my dealer told me I have been running summer diesel. The diesel vendor denies it. I bought some more and want to test it. What is the best way? can I put it in a glass overnight? What should it look like if summer/winter diesel. How cold does it need to be to see clouding?

My truck takes quite a while (6 seconds) to start when cold (just under freezing). Would changing my fuel filter after two gelling episodes help?

I just got some filters in today but it's not due for quite a while.

just u nder freezing makes no differants what your on if your 10 or 20 belowfreezing it would dealer doesnt know what hes talking about unless its been colder at knite then it would jell up and stay that way for quite some time in the morning

and further if it is that cold and you dont whant to drain your tank put some kerosene in your tank like a gallon or more that will dilute it and not allow it to jell

Both times that my fuel 'gelled' it went down to -20 and -25 deg celcius over night. Next morning it wouldn't start. I can believe the gelling theory at that point, only now it is only just under freezing and its taking quite a while to start when cold (brand new batteries also). Sometimes I try 2 or 3 times. I guess I was wondering if NOT changing my filter after I gelled twice could lead to this.

Did they ever check the glow plugs?

Yes, they claimed to have checked the glows plugs and the injectors the second time it was in. Incidentally, I told them to FIRST check the fuel for gelling (i.e. before it got too warm from sitting in the shop) I was told that it would be done first. After $140 of investigation work (checking glow plugs and injectors), I was told that the "fuel test" came back positive for summer fuel. I don't want to give them any more of my business. In my ignorance I assume that a gelled fuel diagnosis would be 2 minutes and the FIRST thing an experience tech would look for given the circomstances. Even without the expressed request of the customer.

Have you tried any winter additives? We don't have that kind of problem in South Texas so I can't recommend any specific Brand/Type but somebody reading this surely wil.

At our pumps they specify winter diesel to work up to -22°C...not sure down to where summer diesel will work but well into the double digits below 0°C.

As others have said, sounds like your problem is a leaky "o" ring, as all of your problems started after the filter change. But after you get her going, consider using an additive for an extra measure of protection. I think that the use of an anti-gel additive would be highly recommended during cold temperatures. I have been using Power Service's Diesel Kleen in the summer, and their Diesel Supplement in the winter as it has anti-gel as well as cetane boost and injector cleaner. It's reasonably priced, widely used, and available around here. I might be able to find the links to an informative post on info I received from Power Service a while back. Good luck on your troubleshooting.

Does anyone know how to test fuel to see if it is winter or summer? I had a small amound sitting outside all night and it doesn't appear thick at all. there are a few tiny crystal things but that could be a little bit of water that froze.

I have not changed the fuel filter since gelling twice, could that be leading to hard starts when cold?

Perpahs George Morrison could check it with their regular fuel sample. If you asked for it they may be able to tell the difference. his website is www.avlube.com

Does anyone know how to test fuel to see if it is winter or summer? I had a small amound sitting outside all night and it doesn't appear thick at all. there are a few tiny crystal things but that could be a little bit of water that froze.

I have not changed the fuel filter since gelling twice, could that be leading to hard starts when cold?
You can use a cheap hydrometer to obtain the API Gravity then convert the readings to Specific gravity. Then just match your readings to the fuel.

A bear, I guess it's a little more complicated than I hoped. I'll get my girlfriend to grab a hydrometer from the office and do a little research.

Any ducks down there yet? I lived in Maringouin (west of B.R.) for 2 years and spent some time shooting dos-gris out of Cocodrie for a LDWF / LSU project.

Although very different than where I am now I loved it (and the people)...


Anyway, I put a glass out overnight (0 deg. F) and the viscocity seemed normal, and cloudyness normal.

After changing my oil last night to synthetic, I played around with the fuel filter primer. When I would crack the bleeder, nothing would happen unless I pumped the primer. After working on the primer hard, fuel will spray out when I crack the primer. I'm thinking the dealership may not have sent my home with enough fuel presure? or too much air?

I'm just learning this stuff, but the test will be this afternoon (-12 deg F).

thanks,

not that simple, took two full cycles of cranking to start this morning. it was 30 degrees in my garage. During the afternoon it was -20 and it start like a champ while pluged in.

Does the block heater cord run anything besides the block heater, and could there be enough ambient heat generated to help with anything else?

The cord only runs the block heater from the factory. The block heater warms the truck up enough that glow plugs are not necessary to start it. It wouldn't warm stuff up enough to prevent gelling I wouldn't think.

Caswell, The duck season is getting better. We're finally getting some cold weather so the big ones are starting to come down. The last two hunts were great. Four hunters and everyone limited out each day.