What do I do now? Pupmp is on and lines are hooked up and tightened but intake is not back on yet. What all do I need to do before I put the intake on?

A die gider with a flexible extension to hone the intake runners.

The gaskets are $11 or more apiece for upper and lower.

What about bleeding and setting timing?

Crank and check for leaks before installing intake.

Timing cover would have slight impression and stain from previous Inj Pump\gasket.

If you correctly aligned the replacement IP up precisely to that location, timing would be within a gnat's ankle of correct.

PCM will do the rest.

Remove all glow plugs - engine will crank easier

Hot-wire the lift pump at the fuse on the firewall - bleed the supply hose at the IP, tighten.

Loosen - two turns - injector pipes on both banks, crank engine till fuel is dripping from all injectors, tighten all.

Install glow plugs, connect wiring.

Intake on and sealed - restore lift pump circuit.

Start engine, wait a few - if still rough\missing, crack - 1/2 to 1 turn - each pipe, one at a time, while running, for no bubbles.

Engine should still be cool enough to drip, no danger of raw fuel ignition.

If no bubbles, tighten, repeat for next pipe on that bank

And so on, till no bubbles at each injector

Repeat for each injector per bank.

When smooth, shut down, wait for cool down, hose engine down with soap and hot water from the spigot at the bottom of your home water heater.

Got it all back together, but can't get the pump to line up with where the old one was. Turns over but haven't bled it yet. Baby is napping and I'm on Daddy duty while my wife shops for presents. Extended the harness for the PMD six feet so that I can remote mount it. Beveled and polished the intake side of the upper plenum. Maybe it will flow better when I get it running.

as long as your supply pump is working, you should be able to get it starter pretty quickly with only a couple lines cracked, Normally, on these 6.5s we don't even bother cracking the lines anymore, even when pump and injectors are changed at the same time.

Got it to start awhile ago, but need to put the belt back on and clean in between the radiator and the a/c condensor, there was more crap in between the two than you can believe. Suprised that the damn thing even cooled at alll this past summer. Stuttered a few time but then fired right off. Will finish it up this evening. Thanks for all the help guys.

Got to work on the truck but not good news. Hard to start, tach not working, codes 18, 28, 35, 36, 49, and 81. When I tried to line up the inj pump, I couldn't get it to go back to where the old one was but got it within an eighth inch. Timing way off? Why would the pump not rotate back to where the other one was? And why no tach?

The tach comes off the alternator wires.

18- Pump Cam Reference Error
28- Transmission Range Pressure Switch Circuit
35- Pulse Width Too Short
36- Pulse Width Too Long
49- STS Lamp Circuit
81- 2-3 Shift Solenoid Circuit

Whew, take a close look at all your battery wires/grounds/alternator. Also need to clear all the codes and see what hard codes you have.

If your having a lot of difficulty rotating the pump, could be a rubber line routed underneath it preventing it from moving, or maybe the high pressure lines got bent way out and are twisting the pump to one side.

All those were after I cleared the codes. I'll check the alternator. I'm pretty sure that is the problem with the tach.