been looking at the allison shift kit jr and the 1057-56 converter from suncoast.
is this a good idea, or do i have to replace the clutches when i put in the new converter?
thanks
brian

been looking at the allison shift kit jr and the 1057-56 converter from suncoast.
is this a good idea, or do i have to replace the clutches when i put in the new converter?
thanks
brian

You would have to tear down the tranny to replace clutches. Just drop it down to put in a TQ Converter. The Jr. and Converter seem to be pretty tuff from what i read, but thats if the stock clutches are in good shape once you apply the Jr Kit. If you have the funds, do it all while its out.

You won't have to replace anything with the converter. The Transgo and converter will hold quite a bit but if you go with big power your Alli will need more help.

Mike, this has probably been asked a thousand times but, what do you consider big power?

Mike, this has probably been asked a thousand times but, what do you consider big power?

McRat limped wendy on the dyno with Transgo and 1057 and I believe the truck was putting out about 500 hp.

If you added a copilot in with a transgo and a converter how much better would that be?

What happened was as we passed 1000ftlb (2200rpm) when tuning Wendy on a dyno, it blew through the C3? clutches. A CoPilot, programming, etc, cannot fix that.

You will need clutches that hold more force, no other fix that I know of.

Oh, and Wendy did 527rwhp that day IIRC, and peaked at 1160ftlb one pull before it limped.

What happened was as we passed 1000ftlb (2200rpm) when tuning Wendy on a dyno, it blew through the C3? clutches. A CoPilot, programming, etc, cannot fix that.

You will need clutches that hold more force, no other fix that I know of.

Oh, and Wendy did 527rwhp that day IIRC, and peaked at 1160ftlb one pull before it limped.

To be clear, All this with the Jr. or full SC kit?

To be clear, All this with the Jr. or full SC kit?

Transgo jr and 1057

Thats still pretty impressive holding power.

Thats still pretty impressive holding power.

It didn't hold. Pat and I decided to see how far we could get with this setup. Now we know.

It didn't hold the 500 plus but would probably hold up to 450 for a while though right?

Basically it slipped the clutches after about 10 pulls, or about the 10th time your truck makes at shift at WOT.

Practical torque limit with a TGjr and a 1057 is about 800ftlb if you want it to live a long time.

PS - the 1057 will handle pretty much anything you can throw at it.

You won't have to replace anything with the converter. The Transgo and converter will hold quite a bit but if you go with big power your Alli will need more help.
only tuner i have is the ppe 225 tuner. Mike do you think the converter and transgo jr will be able to hold this? i havent limped alli yet so i would assume that the clutches are still in good shape

What happened was as we passed 1000ftlb (2200rpm) when tuning Wendy on a dyno, it blew through the C3? clutches. A CoPilot, programming, etc, cannot fix that.

You will need clutches that hold more force, no other fix that I know of.



More line pressure would clamp the clutches together for more holding power.....

More line pressure would clamp the clutches together for more holding power.....

30 psi extra won't do it and thats all the extra you get with .135 shim.

might be going over to inglewood trans on my december break for christmas present for alli.

i am just running a tow tune until i can go visit mike...hopefully end of december or mid january:) but im going with a sc3 and 1056

i am just running a tow tune until i can go visit mike...hopefully end of december or mid january:) but im going with a sc3 and 1056
would the 1056 be better for towing say a 15k toyhauler? or would the 1057 be better?

i think the 1056 but im not 100% sure...

i think the 1056 but im not 100% sure...
thats what i thought too. thanks. i know mike did a write up on the differences of the 55,56, and 57 but cant find it yet..

More line pressure would clamp the clutches together for more holding power.....

Yeah, and pushing on the brake pedal harder will increase the rotor dia on your brakes.

More force generates more friction. If it does not hold, the higher pressure actually hurts the trans faster as the heat builds up faster and hotter.

We used to put washers in our motorcycle clutches when I was a kid to try and get them to hold more. While it made the clutch feel like a racing clutch, it actually hurt the clutch faster, and often wrecked the steels instead of just the frictions. The solution was more discs, with better lining, and springs that matched.

My personal favorite for towing and daily driving is the 1057. It also is my favorite for stock to middle-sized charger racing. On big chargers you will need something else for drag racing.

well shoot...nvm honda rider...1057...for some reason i think mcrat might know what he is talking about :)

well shoot...nvm honda rider...1057...for some reason i think mcrat might know what he is talking about :)
haha alrighty

Yeah, and pushing on the brake pedal harder will increase the rotor dia on your brakes.


No it won't. But it will make you stop faster, the harder you push your brake pedal the faster you stop. (to a point) When you push the brake pedal harder, what are you doing? You are increasing pressure on the brake pads which makes them grip the rotor's harder. Its really a pretty simple concept.:)



More force generates more friction. If it does not hold, the higher pressure actually hurts the trans faster as the heat builds up faster and hotter.



While this is partially true, the other side of this argument is that making the frictions and steels thinner makes them less resilient to heat. So its kind of a trade-off.



We used to put washers in our motorcycle clutches when I was a kid to try and get them to hold more. While it made the clutch feel like a racing clutch, it actually hurt the clutch faster, and often wrecked the steels instead of just the frictions. The solution was more discs, with better lining, and springs that matched.




Are you sure that by putting washers under the springs you didn't reduce there travel enough to prevent full disengagement? Or is it possible that compressing the springs more than they were designed for caused them to lose they some of there spring rate? Causing them to slip all the time. Or were the clutches already fried? I think comparing a cable operated, mechanical, motorcycle clutch, to that of an electronicly controlled Allison is a bit of a stretch though.



I also must ask, if raising the pressure in the transmission does not increase holding power, then why does everyone building allisons do it? It seems to me that if we all need are more frictions with "better lining" that suncoast wouldn't need to use transgo valves, or a different pump spring (to up main line pressure).

I also must ask, if raising the pressure in the transmission does not increase holding power, then why does everyone building allisons do it? It seems to me that if we all need are more frictions with "better lining" that suncoast wouldn't need to use transgo valves, or a different pump spring (to up main line pressure).

No one said increased pressure did not help holding power. I said it is not the end all be all as you stated in your capitalized words.

you dont need the shift kit when you have the co pilot. thats just what i was told

you dont need the shift kit when you have the co pilot. thats just what i was told

Don't be so sure.:D

Are you sure that by putting washers under the springs you didn't reduce there travel enough to prevent full disengagement? Or is it possible that compressing the springs more than they were designed for caused them to lose they some of there spring rate? Causing them to slip all the time. Or were the clutches already fried? I think comparing a cable operated, mechanical, motorcycle clutch, to that of an electronicly controlled Allison is a bit of a stretch though.



I also must ask, if raising the pressure in the transmission does not increase holding power, then why does everyone building allisons do it? It seems to me that if we all need are more frictions with "better lining" that suncoast wouldn't need to use transgo valves, or a different pump spring (to up main line pressure).

Basically I'm saying you cannot fix "parts" with programming or pressure. Nothing does the job of parts except parts.

I don't sell transmissions, I'm a consumer. Nothing would make me happier than to tell folk I can get them into the 12's without clutches. I would sell more race stuff cause the customer would have more money left.

I was sure hoping a Transgo and TC would hold on Wendy, and at first I thought it would. Mike told me it wouldn't, but I'm a natural skeptic. He was right, it would not.

People have done exactly what you're referring to on LB7's and LLY's. Increase pressure with factory clutches. They will hold a bit more power for a short time on most trucks, then limp quicker when it lets go.

But I will say this, running a TGjr/TC holds more than stock, and on some trucks will last a good while. But the LBZ is the meanest of the Dmaxes so far, with about 20% more torque when tuned up, and it needs all the help it can get if you want to fully appreciate it's potential.

i cant wait for my visit to mike L...all this talk about power!

People have done exactly what you're referring to on LB7's and LLY's. Increase pressure with factory clutches. They will hold a bit more power for a short time on most trucks, then limp quicker when it lets go.



I couldn't bite my tongue any longer, started to bleed:D

I run a bit more power and my findings have found different results. LLY and LBZ. I just looked in my LBZ tranny that runs stock clutches, Tranny was in very good condition with a couple of C3's SLIGHTLY dicolored, everything else perfect, thats all, after a full race/dyno season. Hopefully with the addition of MikeL's "snake oil" Tranny will look perfect after another race season.

Now this tranny is built to the hilt, not just a transgo Jr. I've been racing for 3 seasons now with factory clutches. I'm happy with them, but you'll need the support to go with them.

Don't want to start a war, just want people to know that there are other opinions and options out there.

I couldn't bite my tongue any longer, started to bleed:D

I run a bit more power and my findings have found different results. LLY and LBZ. I just looked in my LBZ tranny that runs stock clutches, Tranny was in very good condition with a couple of C3's SLIGHTLY dicolored, everything else perfect, thats all, after a full race/dyno season. Hopefully with the addition of MikeL's "snake oil" Tranny will look perfect after another race season.

Now this tranny is built to the hilt, not just a transgo Jr. I've been racing for 3 seasons now with factory clutches. I'm happy with them, but you'll need the support to go with them.

Don't want to start a war, just want people to know that there are other opinions and options out there.
Yes there are. And they come out to be pretty cost effective Ive found. :D Thanks for answering all of my previous questions rob.

There is nothing wrong with factory clutches. We have run well past 800 RwHp with them without issue. As Rob stated you need to support them with the proper parts just as you do any other aftermarket clutches. I can tell you there is a lot the Allison can and will handle but it needs to be supported by proper tuning in BOTH the ECM and TCM. I have been running 488 RwHp into a fully stock as supplied from GM Allison transmission for over a year now and it works in every gear. The only issue I have still to solve is the 4 - 5 up-shift at full power, as it slips just a little sometimes. I would say the 4 -5 shift slips about every 10th WOT shift. Other than that it works perfect! Would I recommend anyone else doing what I'm doing, no but I'm testing to see how far we can push it and learning as we go. At 450 RwHp it works perfect all the time in every gear, so I'm pretty close to finding the limit now.

I wouldve bought the TTS kit from you but you wouldnt sell it to me without the transgo cos i already have it.

There is nothing wrong with factory clutches. We have run well past 800 RwHp with them without issue. As Rob stated you need to support them with the proper parts just as you do any other aftermarket clutches. I can tell you there is a lot the Allison can and will handle but it needs to be supported by proper tuning in BOTH the ECM and TCM. I have been running 488 RwHp into a fully stock as supplied from GM Allison transmission for over a year now and it works in every gear. The only issue I have still to solve is the 4 - 5 up-shift at full power, as it slips just a little sometimes. I would say the 4 -5 shift slips about every 10th WOT shift. Other than that it works perfect! Would I recommend anyone else doing what I'm doing, no but I'm testing to see how far we can push it and learning as we go. At 450 RwHp it works perfect all the time in every gear, so I'm pretty close to finding the limit now.

What things are you changing in TCM tuning?

There is nothing wrong with factory clutches. We have run well past 800 RwHp with them without issue. As Rob stated you need to support them with the proper parts just as you do any other aftermarket clutches. I can tell you there is a lot the Allison can and will handle but it needs to be supported by proper tuning in BOTH the ECM and TCM. I have been running 488 RwHp into a fully stock as supplied from GM Allison transmission for over a year now and it works in every gear. The only issue I have still to solve is the 4 - 5 up-shift at full power, as it slips just a little sometimes. I would say the 4 -5 shift slips about every 10th WOT shift. Other than that it works perfect! Would I recommend anyone else doing what I'm doing, no but I'm testing to see how far we can push it and learning as we go. At 450 RwHp it works perfect all the time in every gear, so I'm pretty close to finding the limit now.

Post the dynos.

Which 800rwhp trucks are you referring to?

Which 488rwhp trucks are you referring to?

How many passes? Let's see the slips. Get the owners in here.

I'll be surprised if you answer any of those questions because I know what happens in the real world.

I've put far, far, far more 1/4mi passes in Duramaxes than you, and perhaps anyone you know.

If you think factory clutches will hold 500 passes like Suncoast clutches will, I want to see the proof.

Time to put-up-or-shut-up. Everyone knows how much I run my trucks and thousands have seen us hot-lap all across the US. But nobody has any idea which trucks you are referring to that run stock clutches that last just as long.

Just because you dislike Mike L, does not give you a good reason to screw with other people's trucks whom might think you are posting data derived from personal experience.

I couldn't bite my tongue any longer, started to bleed:D

I run a bit more power and my findings have found different results. LLY and LBZ. I just looked in my LBZ tranny that runs stock clutches, Tranny was in very good condition with a couple of C3's SLIGHTLY dicolored, everything else perfect, thats all, after a full race/dyno season. Hopefully with the addition of MikeL's "snake oil" Tranny will look perfect after another race season.

Now this tranny is built to the hilt, not just a transgo Jr. I've been racing for 3 seasons now with factory clutches. I'm happy with them, but you'll need the support to go with them.

Don't want to start a war, just want people to know that there are other opinions and options out there.

You should start selling transmissions then. Because few (if any) others are experiencing your results. I know Wendy limped because I was there. I know Ralph limped because I was there, and I know dozens of trucks that limped because I know the owners through this board and they have talked with me on the phone.

One of the guys I know though, ran 12.5x in a LBZ with a 100% stock Allison.

Have you done that?

Neither have I.

But it is not the result that most the readers here will get.

I wanted to order the TTS kit from steve, but I already had the transgo kit. So i asked him if he would sell me their kit, minus the transgo kit (as its included in their kit). Seeing that they also sell the transgo's seperately, it didnt seem like it would hurt them to break up an order. Steve said no way absolutley not. How awesome is that?

I dont mean to interfere with the e-bitch slapping in this one, but would it be safe to say that, for the average truck, it could reliably hold like a 150 horsepower tune? And what would that put a LB7 at? Around 400 rwhp or so right? This is probably the next thing I am looking at doing for my truck.

Thanks

As a rule of thumb 100hp is the limit. Search the forums is been discussed ad nauseam.

I talked with Eric Merchant awhile ago and he said a safe limit for a 5 speed is around 375 rwhp and 400 for 6 speed. But again how long it lasts depends on a few things.

A stock 5 speed is good to 450 RwHp with proper programming. Without proper programming I would not go above 325RwHp if your looking for long life (50K +). 350 RwHp if your only looking for 20K miles from it. The harder you run it the shorter it lives. Bump the numbers by about 35 RwHp for a 6 speed units.

A year ago I would never recommend going above 325 RwHp on a stock transmission. The programming that we have been learning in the TCM has allowed us to raise those numbers but it's taken us over 2 years to learn how to get there and we are not done learning yet.

As far as answering you Pat it doesn't matter what I would say you will say the opposite so why bother, go bother someone else that really cares about your opinions.

You should start selling transmissions then. Because few (if any) others are experiencing your results. I know Wendy limped because I was there. I know Ralph limped because I was there, and I know dozens of trucks that limped because I know the owners through this board and they have talked with me on the phone.

One of the guys I know though, ran 12.5x in a LBZ with a 100% stock Allison.

Have you done that?

Neither have I.

But it is not the result that most the readers here will get.

All right then:D,

I call it like I test it. I have nothing to gain by posting my findings, no free parts, I don't have any grudges against anyone. I don't represent any company except my own. I've saved money because of what I've used, and will again. I don't lie.

I do stand behind my statement that factory clutches work well with support, are they the best? not sure, because I've not done back to back testing.

I do believe buying products from a qualified tranny tech, will save you a bunch of heartaches in the furture. I call and listen to MikeL everytime I go into my tranny. He cares about Dmax performance enough to help me even though I don't use everything he recommends.

A stock 5 speed is good to 450 RwHp with proper programming. Without proper programming I would not go above 325RwHp if your looking for long life (50K +). 350 RwHp if your only looking for 20K miles from it. The harder you run it the shorter it lives. Bump the numbers by about 35 RwHp for a 6 speed units.

A year ago I would never recommend going above 325 RwHp on a stock transmission. The programming that we have been learning in the TCM has allowed us to raise those numbers but it's taken us over 2 years to learn how to get there and we are not done learning yet.

As far as answering you Pat it doesn't matter what I would say you will say the opposite so why bother, go bother someone else that really cares about your opinions.

In the event you (mods) didnt notice I did ask a question. What about the converter?

Im sorry, I meant with a trans-go and converter.

a transgo and a converter with new clutches is essentially a suncoast 3. if you pull the trans to do a transgo kit and a converter, replacing the clutches is the only way to go, you would be kicking yourself later if you did not put new clutches in. call mike l and get setup with the proper kit.

In the event you (mods) didnt notice I did ask a question. What about the converter?

Sorry, the stock converter will not hold at much above 350RwHp. Our testing we are doing is using our triple plate converter with the as supplied from GM Allison.

For the life of me I can not understand what people on here have against stock clutches! Just because in a 100% stock application they get toasted with abuse, people are convinced that you must upgrade to aftermarket clutches. Even though there are plenty of people running big power through stock clutches with the proper supporting mods and/or proper tuning.

I wonder how long aftermarket clutches (of any brand) would hold up in a otherwise stock transmission? Has anyone tried it?

Sorry, the stock converter will not hold at much above 350RwHp. Our testing we are doing is using our triple plate converter with the as supplied from GM Allison.

I have a local 2001 truck that I tuned, he is running a stock 2001 TC, BD Clutches and a transgo with some mods to the valve body set up by Ted Jannety from Jannetty Racing here in Waterbury CT, also a Supporting Vendore here.

The truck has over 140K on it, three or four seasons on the transmission and he runs 12.7X-12.9X all day long !!! Extended Cab Long Bed.

He also tows a 13K 5th wheel all over the place and plows with it,

Is his truck the norm, nope, but with proper tuning there is a chance it can be done for sure...........;)

His truck has been called a freak, oh BTW he also went 12.9's without lift pumps and held 21K + psi rail lpressure logged with proper tuning and a stock 2001 TCM program in it as well, no changes at all to the stock 2001 program !!

T:eek:NY

we're putting an aurora (5000) on tacojedbob's truck tomorrow. He has 30k or so, maybe a bit more, on stock clutches, transgo, and 1050 converter. No pressure mods no nothing, it runs 13.4 (cause jed cant launch ):h ) and dyno'd just around 1000 ft lbs.

We'll post how it likes the aurora....

im also looking into upgrading my tranny. how come the suncoast IV says it can only handle as much as the III kit ?

The III is good for a solid 500hp. If your gonna do bigger chargers or motor work, go with a IV.

The III is good for a solid 500hp. If your gonna do bigger chargers or motor work, go with a IV.
X2

well so far the transgo and 1050 are holding up really well with the Aurora 5000 spiking 47 PSI. I am really surprised how well it shifts still and it has not blown up yet. A LOT of it has to do with TCM and ECM tuning like has been mentioned previously. I have plans on building my engine soon, and will also dig into my tranny at the same time to beef it up for the new power.

plans for the tranny are prob some line pressure mods, Mike L snake oil, new OEM clutches most likely but Altos if I can afford them.

Jeds tranny is holding perfectly fine so far! :eek:

he hasnt had 4wd since we put the turbo on so we have yet to do any 4wd launches but other than that its taking a lot of abuse without any complaints...

his tranny does do the "double bang" fairly badly though. I might pull the pan and make some adjustments. I also want to retune his TCM for the bigger turbo...this made a huge difference on my truck.

Jeds tranny is holding perfectly fine so far! :eek:

he hasnt had 4wd since we put the turbo on so we have yet to do any 4wd launches but other than that its taking a lot of abuse without any complaints...

his tranny does do the "double bang" fairly badly though. I might pull the pan and make some adjustments. I also want to retune his TCM for the bigger turbo...this made a huge difference on my truck.


What are you going to adjust in the valvebody?

just clean things out thats all, I think he has some sticky valves

Ok I have a '02 Duramax and before I get a pogrammer wanted to see What is the difference in the transgo kits for the 6 speed kit for $70.00 and the 5 speed kit for around about $200 :wtf:? Whats the difference?

The 6 speed kit is done wiht just dropping pan/valve body. The 5 speed you actually tear into the tranny.

Ok I have a '02 Duramax and before I get a pogrammer wanted to see What is the difference in the transgo kits for the 6 speed kit for $70.00 and the 5 speed kit for around about $200 :wtf:? Whats the difference?
Search for this there are tons of threads on it....

i've ridden in jeds truck with the a5k and it shifts nicely

More pressure will give you more holding power...if you have the surface area to hold that pressure. Its just like if you put massive brake calipers on tiny rotors. Sure you have the pressure, but you lack surface area and risk heat damage.

ok, so it's being argued that with "proper supporting mods" stock allison clutches can handle the power....

one of you that is touting this please step up and tell us nimrods what else you do to make the stock clutches hold where others seeming can't. :D


I'm being serious... I'd like for someone to explain what all they have done to make stock clutches work for them with 500+rwhp.... Is it adding more of them? what?


thanks.

Borg-Warner Clutches
Extra C3 friction and steel
Increase line pressure (shim or ATS pump kit)
Converter flow valve
Transgo

I also run the Co-pilot on my truck.

I've had great results in the last 3 years of abusing these setups. Inspected mine this winter after a full race season at full power. I replaced 2 C3 frictions because of the slight discoloration in the middle of the pack. This is at over 600HP and over 100 boosted launches. C1, C2, C4, C5 and most of C3 looked like brand new.

I then installed the MikeL snake oiler to help cool C3's.

My LLY had 300 passes on this trans set-up and last I heard is still in service, all of them with twin turbos.

I know many that do not believe in stock clutches, that is fine. I tried and use this and it works for me.

Take care,
Rob

Im sorry for my ignorance but....how do you just add a clutch and a steel? I mean does the tranny just have room for adding clutches or what? So if anyone could explain this one too me, I would appreciate it. Thanks

Im sorry for my ignorance but....how do you just add a clutch and a steel? I mean does the tranny just have room for adding clutches or what? So if anyone could explain this one too me, I would appreciate it. Thanks

Machine the C3 backing plate for more room.

Borg-Warner Clutches
Extra C3 friction and steel
Increase line pressure (shim or ATS pump kit)
Converter flow valve
Transgo

I also run the Co-pilot on my truck.

I've had great results in the last 3 years of abusing these setups. Inspected mine this winter after a full race season at full power. I replaced 2 C3 frictions because of the slight discoloration in the middle of the pack. This is at over 600HP and over 100 boosted launches. C1, C2, C4, C5 and most of C3 looked like brand new.

I then installed the MikeL snake oiler to help cool C3's.

My LLY had 300 passes on this trans set-up and last I heard is still in service, all of them with twin turbos.

I know many that do not believe in stock clutches, that is fine. I tried and use this and it works for me.

Take care,
Rob

excellent... thanks

Machine the C3 backing plate for more room.

So is that how the suncoast and ATS kits work? Do you get new backing plates in their kits or do you have to machine them down yourself? Im sorry I am confused here. Did you just ad a single stock clutch and machine down the backing plate? How thick is all of this stuff?

So is that how the suncoast and ATS kits work? Do you get new backing plates in their kits or do you have to machine them down yourself? Im sorry I am confused here. Did you just ad a single stock clutch and machine down the backing plate? How thick is all of this stuff?
Yes this is what the kits do, they provide you with new backing plates and sometimes apply pistons depending. You can machine it down yourself. There is a kit out there that does this but its overpriced when you can just measure how thick a stock C3 steel and clutch are and get it machined out of the stock backing plate.

does someone want to post how much needs to be machined out of the stock backing plate.

The thickness of one stock friction and steel

does someone want to post how much needs to be machined out of the stock backing plate.
...i already said in my post...

The kit also adds a spacer under the C3 stack. Is it required? Why is it there? Don't forget the kit comes with additional parts for Pump upgrades and gaskets, and instructions. It does seem pricy, but has a lot of parts.

It all depends on what you do. If you are going to simulate a kit, stick to it. Dont piece a kit together. I hate to say it but TTS offers what you guys are looking at. Its like 500 some dollars and you have to buy new OEM clutches becuase thats what it uses.

Its like 500 some dollars and you have to buy new OEM clutches becuase thats what it uses.

Alto Red Eagles and Kolene steels also work, just need the right combo.

As long as the clearances on the same it doesnt really matter right?

So if you get that TTS tranny upgrade deal, you have to get a converter and clutches, is that what the deal is right? But what else would you need?

Thats it. Converter clutches and steels. I would also buy a converter valve like Rob and I have. Its a good way to go but I would personally rather patronize Suncoast. Thats all it really comes down to.

How much are clutch packs and steels. I guess 600+1200/1400+Clutch packs=suncoast...theres no getting around it. Trannys are expensive. That suck :(

A full suncoast kit is about $2k. Thats with shift kit clutches and converter.

How much are clutch packs and steels. I guess 600+1200/1400+Clutch packs=suncoast...theres no getting around it. Trannys are expensive. That suck :(

I spent only $500 on my tranny...New OEM clutches, Transynd, and Transgo Kit. Holding up great after 25,000 miles with 500+/-hp and now an Aurora 5000! keep in mind I did not pay a shop to do it.

I spent well under $2k on mine as well, but I put my own kit together with some special friends of mine:rolleyes:. Mine is like a SCIII on steroids.

How much are clutch packs and steels. I guess 600+1200/1400+Clutch packs=suncoast...theres no getting around it. Trannys are expensive. That suck :(



OEM clutches are fairly inexpensive. And you will probably not need to replace all your clutch packs.

might as well you can buy all of them for like $100. But I can get altos for $280 so it was a no brainer.

I spent only $500 on my tranny...New OEM clutches, Transynd, and Transgo Kit. Holding up great after 25,000 miles with 500+/-hp and now an Aurora 5000! keep in mind I did not pay a shop to do it.

You didnt include your 1050 in that price. Were talkin with converter and everything.

might as well you can buy all of them for like $100. But I can get altos for $280 so it was a no brainer.




Where are you buying them that cheap?

might as well you can buy all of them for like $100. But I can get altos for $280 so it was a no brainer.

when I tear into my tranny during my engine build I will be replacing OEMs with Altos...its worth the "peace" of mind. only because I will be pushing ALOT more power. But if I was staying in the 500 hp range I would stick with OEMs. Idaho Rob has had great success with them as well, with TWINS!

Where are you buying them that cheap?

I believe I got my clutches at an Allison dealer, all of them for $130ish if I recall correctly. I would call up eric at Merchant, I believe he sells them... I am sure he is around that ball park as well.

might as well you can buy all of them for like $100. But I can get altos for $280 so it was a no brainer.




Where are you buying them that cheap?

I have an alto hook up...

I spent well under $2k on mine as well, but I put my own kit together with some special friends of mine:rolleyes:. Mine is like a SCIII on steroids.

Mind tellin me what you have in, or is that a secret of the cupcakes?:secret: I am trying to see what I can do to get a basic trans in, I dont ever plan on running huge numbers.

Sorry guy's, I didn't mean to double post.

Mind tellin me what you have in, or is that a secret of the cupcakes?:secret: I am trying to see what I can do to get a basic trans in, I dont ever plan on running huge numbers.
An off the shelf SCIII will hold well over 500 hp.

I know that, thats not really what I was asking

I know that, thats not really what I was asking

I don't think they are going to tell you.

I don't think they are going to tell you.

Man the tranny world is a mysterious place. The CIA cant even get in

Secrets are secrets for a reason. And some really great people have helped me along the way and it would be disrespectful to go blab they need to make a living too. Like I said, an SCIII will hold more than you will need. Tony (moonshine) had tons of 700+hp passes on his SCIII and it lasted 90k miles.

Mind tellin me what you have in, or is that a secret of the cupcakes?:secret: I am trying to see what I can do to get a basic trans in, I dont ever plan on running huge numbers.





You have to hold your tongue just right when you assemble it.

Secrets are secrets for a reason. And some really great people have helped me along the way and it would be disrespectful to go blab they need to make a living too. Like I said, an SCIII will hold more than you will need. Tony (moonshine) had tons of 700+hp passes on his SCIII and it lasted 90k miles.

I just wanted to know, but if its a secret i definitely understand. I know there is stuff that people do to tranny's that most people dont know how to do, which is what gives them the edge in their business. I just didnt realize that you knew them, thats why I was asking what you had, I guess I will just have to sweet talk someone like everyone else.

I do have a question for you though, have you ever been in a trans before you did yours? And how long did it take you?

Yes and all of my friends have too. We do the leisure route and usually do it in 2-3 days just to make sure we dont mess anything up.

would the scIII be able to handle the ppe hot tunes that does 350 to the crank with a lift pump?

I would assume so.

would the scIII be able to handle the ppe hot tunes that does 350 to the crank with a lift pump?

Plenty of guys told me it would hold it fine..

For installing just the transgo and converter, do you have to pull out any clutches or anything like that. You just have to take the tranny out, put that blue color plate thing in, drill the holes, do the valve body mods, and then put the new converter in right? Or is there more to it than that?

For installing just the transgo and converter, do you have to pull out any clutches or anything like that. You just have to take the tranny out, put that blue color plate thing in, drill the holes, do the valve body mods, and then put the new converter in right? Or is there more to it than that?

"01 through '05 5 speeds need bell housing removal and front rotating assembly disassembled which means pulling the C1 and C2 clutches apart.

"01 through '05 5 speeds need bell housing removal and front rotating assembly disassembled which means pulling the C1 and C2 clutches apart.

O alright, this may sound dumb, and I guess it is kind of a relative question, but is pulling clutches a tough thing to do? Obviously it is not that hard for you to do.