Moderator I posted this in DIY and didn't get a response so sorry if this looks like a double post... LMM owners - does the fuel filter replacement procedure work for you? I'm not sure if the LMM has more junk around it or what but it doesn't look feasible at all to pull the filter out the top. Even if the battery was pulled there seems to be too many hard lines running through the area. Going through the wheelwell looks the easiest but I can't see GM doing it this way. I assume they do it from the bottom on a lift??? Also I notice there are 3 different kinds of clips holding the wheelwell in so I may get some spares before I try pulling it out.

Also are the filters the same from an LBZ to an LMM? Reason I ask is the factory filter is white and has a different part number than the blue delco filter I bought from parts (that they say is for the LMM.) They look identical I just didn't understand the different part #'s. Anyone change their LMM fuel filter yet?

I have not changed my filter yet so I can't speak to how easy it is to get the filter out via the top or wheel well. I figured that I would make it easy on myself for the first filter change and just remove the fender liner (it really isn't that much more work).

As far as the filter color goes, I believe the white filter is the OEM GM part and the blue filter is the Delco part. They should be comparable. On the other hand, I remember seeing something about 2 different versions of the Delco filter on this site:

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=193373&highlight=delco+fuel+filter

I have not changed one yet but it looks like your best bet is to go through the wheel well. (remove tire and wheel liner)

From what has been posted on this site, fuel/oil filters are same from LB7 and up to the current engine LMM. Mine's not here yet so I can't comment on the ease :rolleyes: of changing the filter.

The only way and the best way I believe is to remove your inner plastic fenderwell. You can get a straight shot right at the filter.

Did mine at 7K and got about a 1/4 cup of water out of the seperator. The ONLY way is through the fender well. Looked at it for 20 min. trying to figure out how to get it from the top. Took me 2 min. to pull the fender well out. Oh well, it will be a piece of cake the next time.

Stock GM filter is white and the dealer's AC Delco filter was blue.

Re-move the battery........The best way

Just did mine yesterday; no battery removal, no skirt removal. Tighter than my LLY but easily done.

it can be done from the top with little dificulty or really easly if you remove the fender well take sless then 20 mins to remove change filter and replace

(remove tire and wheel liner)

Remove the TIRE !?

:eek:

You guys must be kidding , I have not changed the filter as of yet But it will be a cold day in hell before I pull a wheel and inner skirt to change a fuel filter !

how do U do this in the winter on the side of the road @ 20 Below ??

naa dont have to remove tire. well i modded my wheel well with all twist locks so mine pops off in like 30 secs and its a peisce of cake from there. it is really only hard from the top if the filter is really tight. and puting it back on getting it started can be a little tough but ether way it can be done. i just prefer the wheel liner way. i sugjest practicing it onece or twice before you get in bad weather or place thats not the best place to learn like the side of th road at night in the middle of no where.

Just did mine yesterday; no battery removal, no skirt removal. Tighter than my LLY but easily done.

Did you remove from the top or thru the wheel well?. My manual (08)shows how to remove it thru the wheel well.

Thanks all!

fire0021 where did you find the twist locks to replace the plastic inserts?

I also checked the manual (thanks InTentsDmax) and it says replace through wheel liner but it says you only have to remove the rear inserts. I had them out but unless you folded the thing in half it didn't seem likely you could cleanly squeeze the fillter in. Remove the whole thing is the easiest.

Cheers!

fire0021 where did you find the twist locks to replace the plastic inserts?

I second that question, whats a good source for these twist locks and maybe some pics to go with that.

i will take some pics and i got the locks form a local off road shop ill post some info on them to i kind retro fitted them but they work pretty good no problems yet . i did however leave the 3or 4 8 mm bolts on the edge of the fender well in i just keep a small nut driver in the truck for those

Simple...............just undo the back half of the fender liner.......reach in and pull her out.......the whole job takes less than 15 minutes..........no need to pull the tire...and don't pay the dealership to do it, cause they will bend you over.............

tire most definitely does NOT need to be removed

removing the wheel well liner takes about 5 minutes, and makes accessing the fuel filter very easy. at least take off the rear half, as other people have suggested

it also helps out if you have a 3 foot long 1/4" hose available to stick on the bottom drain plug of the filter. because i'm running 100% biodiesel, the fuel is highly corrosive to paint.... by using the hose to drain the filter before removing it, you won't get fuel anywhere but in a catch pan (or just the ground, if you're on the side of a road). if that fuel got all over the frame rails and started eating the paint away, i could expect rust to start forming after a few rainy drives

also, i can't really see any way to properly tighten the fuel filter without using some sort of adjustable metal-band oil wrench, which is easily done with the wheel well removed. trying to torque the filter from the top or the bottom of the engine would be a serious pain in the ass, especially if the engine is hot, and/or you don't have a tool to torque it beyond hand-tight.

if you do opt to use just hand-tight torque on the filter, having the filter accidentally shake off or start leaking fuel from either the top or bottom could be very bad. i'm not sure what the ignition temperature of diesel fuel is (Either Diesel #2 or Biodiesel), but with very high turbo header temperatures RIGHT BELOW the fuel filter, having a flammable substance dripping on those headers could possibly be deadly.... i won't be taking that chance, personally

anybody have a good way to snug up / torque the filter without removing the wheel well, while the engine is freshly hot? i'm always up for discussion

Another question.....are you guys using a special wrench to remove the sensor at the bottom of the filter?

I assume they do it from the bottom on a lift???

no lift needed

Another question.....are you guys using a special wrench to remove the sensor at the bottom of the filter?

there might be one available for that, similar to an O2 sensor socket... to avoid damage to the electronic wires.. maybe thru GM or a FLAPS?

i used adjustable channel locks, but may opt for a wrench or socket in the future

Does the liner drop low enough if you have the molded splash guards as they are attached at the bottom by a couple o' screws? I'd also be curious to see how long those plastic inserts last, factory ones usually don't take kindly to being punched in and out several times.

OH CRAP THE FUEL FILTER HAS TO BE TORQUED?

I better go look close at mine then. Maybe my kung fu grip was enough.

i remember seeing a water sensor wrench somewhere i just cant remember where, just use a pair of channel locks

No need to change my fuel filter yet...I just hope it isn't too much of a pain in the ass..:)

did mine thru the fenderwell. it seemed easier to do it that way to me. i turned the wheel all the way to the left for more room.
there is a wrench for the water sensor. Eric at Merchange has a nice one for about 30 clams. It's also a screw driver for the bleeder screw.
You can also get one from Napa, around 8 clams, it's a Lisle 34350 water sensor wrench for Duramax. Keep the cheap one in the truck and the nice one in the tool box. :D
the WIF sensor is plastic so it can get damaged easily if not careful.

hope this info helps.

i remember seeing a water sensor wrench somewhere i just cant remember where, just use a pair of channel locks


OMG - Remind me not to have you change mine......


:eek:

You can also find Lisle wrenches on ebay for a buck,plus shipping. I found a nice aluminum wrench on ebay for 25..Do a search for duramax fuel filter wrench

I just take out the left side bolts and push clips, and it makes it much easier than trying take out the battery and twist my arms in the engine bay, with the correct tools it takes five minutes.

You can also find Lisle wrenches on ebay for a buck,plus shipping. I found a nice aluminum wrench on ebay for 25..Do a search for duramax fuel filter wrench

Thanks for that info I just went on there and got one. With shipping to houston it was right at $24, but it is better than paying $100+ for a busted sensor

Thanks for that info I just went on there and got one. With shipping to houston it was right at $24, but it is better than paying $100+ for a busted sensor

$100+ for the sensor? :eek:
Merchant has them for $50 and I just priced one at the stealership for $57 (special order). I'm probably going to pick one up from Merchant to keep as a spare.

I have 6000 n my truck . At abut what mles should repace the fuel filter?

You can also find Lisle wrenches on ebay for a buck,plus shipping. I found a nice aluminum wrench on ebay for 25..Do a search for duramax fuel filter wrench

Here is one for $6.95.

http://www.toolrage.com/prodView.asp?idproduct=5762

naa dont have to remove tire. well i modded my wheel well with all twist locks so mine pops off in like 30 secs and its a peisce of cake from there. it is really only hard from the top if the filter is really tight. and puting it back on getting it started can be a little tough but ether way it can be done. i just prefer the wheel liner way. i sugjest practicing it onece or twice before you get in bad weather or place thats not the best place to learn like the side of th road at night in the middle of no where.
Where did you get twist locks? Are they plastic?

While you are buying spare, be sure to get a spare bleeder screw. They love to fall into no man's land.

I just did mine this Saturday. Definitely take it out through the wheel well. I have molded splash guards on my truck, so I just removed the front and middle bolts/clips and pulled the liner towards me some (not all the way out). I couldn't pull it out enough to get my head up in there, so I had to feel for the filter mount and then put the filter up to it without looking. My truck only has 5,800 miles on it. I decided to change the oil, fuel filter, and trans filter all at once. I cut open the fuel filter just to see what it looked like. The media looked brand new, and I didn't see any junk in it. I think I'll continue buying my fuel where I have been and change the filter about every 10,000 miles like recommended.

My truck is an 07 classic with 15K miles, and LED display is saying "Check Fuel Filter". How much does the chevy dealer charge to replace the fuel filter?