I'm getting my truck ready for a road trip next month, gonna buy the heath pmd kit , replace the lower radiator hose and I wanna change the belt

Im looking at a particular website and I noticed there are 2 different belts, 1 for a 100 Amp And 105 Amp Alternator and one for a 124 amp alternator

How do I know which one I have? Is it printed on the alternator? I cant check right now its dark and my underhood lights out (where do you get a new bulb btw?)

Also The tensioner is pretty cheap , how hard is the tensioner to change out? Im thinking I might as well do that too. Whats the torque specs on it?

Yes most all Alternators have what Amps. they are marked on them.
Your bulb can be found in most all parts stores. Just take out the old
one and match it up.
The tentioner usually has one bolt holding it to the motor. Check the tentioner
wheel for cracks or pieces of the wheel missing. If it makes a sqeeling sound
the bearing is usually starting to go out. The tentioner wheel can be purchased
seperetly.
If you change your belt keep the old one as a spare.

Hope this helps and have a safe trip.

Tensioner on his 99 should be fine, unless it is making noise just a belt replacement should restore back to proper tensioning. should be a 100" or 101" belt, as you can see from this pic mine is overdue, but also soon to be replaced with shorter belt that I haven't bought yet when I remove the vac pump, when I finish the GM-8 to Mitsubishi non wastegated turbo.

A worn/el cheapo belt can cause a high pitched squeal that sounds sort of like a bad idle pulley or alternator bearing, I've "fixed a couple of "bad bearings" over the years with belt replacements.

As far as I know one has a black plastic cover on the back and the other doesn't. I'm having a brain fart and can't remember which is which right now. Go to Autozone's web site and look for alternators for your truck. If the picture matches that's the one you have.

Tensioner on his 99 should be fine, unless it is making noise just a belt replacement should restore back to proper tensioning. should be a 100" or 101" belt, as you can see from this pic mine is overdue, but also soon to be replaced with shorter belt that I haven't bought yet when I remove the vac pump, when I finish the GM-8 to Mitsubishi non wastegated turbo.

A worn/el cheapo belt can cause a high pitched squeal that sounds sort of like a bad idle pulley or alternator bearing, I've "fixed a couple of "bad bearings" over the years with belt replacements.

Dont tensioners usually crap out at 100,000 miles? My truck only has 82000 but like I said tensioners are cheap and Im figuring maybe I should just replace it when Im at it? If its easy then itll be worth the trouble a dozen or so thousand miles early.

Dont tensioners usually crap out at 100,000 miles? My truck only has 82000 but like I said tensioners are cheap and Im figuring maybe I should just replace it when Im at it? If its easy then itll be worth the trouble a dozen or so thousand miles early.


Not that I know of, complete tensioners aren't that cheap (especailly if from GM) but not mega expensive either (idler pulley wheel only is about $30, but really all you need there if you have a press is just bearings about $18 for the bearing) , the critical 100K part you need to look close at is the crankshaft harmonic balancer