Jo Boo
11-25-2007, 02:18 PM
Bumping an old thread. (http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=127765)
Anyone have any progress on an easier solution to getting rid of codes and bypassing all this regen stuff? Seems like there were some folks onto something a while ago.
I agree with the last comment there, that we might be giving the ECU too much credit here. It seems that if we can maintain some reasonable level of pressure differential, either mechanically (with a reducer or throttle) or electronically (with a resistor) the computer would be happy and leave you alone. I would think there is a happy range the pressure differential needs to be in. Not too big to indicate a clogged filter, nor no difference which would indicate a blown open filter.
Even though I think the temp sensors arent really in play in all this, I would think that the EGT(1) readings would only affect fuel mixture if its not reaching a min temp or has exceeded a max temp, other than monitoring a differential during a regen process. The former is common on most other types of vehicles with EGT sensing, usually. I also think that the 2 temp sensor set up would work the same as a 2 O2 sensor setup in most cars where the (#1) sensor feedsback air/fuel on a gas vehicle and the (#2) only monitors cat efficiency (signals are relative to (1) sensor, either in steady state high voltage state or out of phase from (1)).
So my guess is that as long as (2) EGT is a "little hotter??" than (1) the ECU will leave you alone, and if (1) is in a reasonable temp range. I actually dont think you would have to do anything with (1).
This is all conjecture so dont take anything away from this other than sparking some dicussion, and maybe some motivation again. Im not an expert in any of this. These ideas are an extension of others' and from my knowledge of feedback control systems.
The only problem with this is how to deal with the periodic regens...
Im buying (havent yet..) this LMM strictly for towing a 10,000lb trailer and I DO NOT want to get stuck in the middle of nowhere with an uncooperative truck being a Pansie! I also 'was' looking at this 07 LMM for a full warranty which Im starting to reconsider at this point if this DPF thing is such a pain in the balls.
After test driving a LMM right after driving a friend's stock LLY, the LMM DOES NOT pull as hard as the LLY when you stand on it. I thought the parking brake was on, it was that noticeable! My only guess is that its due to the DPF.. Im open to other ideas here, but Im seriously reconsidering this purchase unless there's a relatively easy and cheap fix (exhaust work is relatively cheap, a couple hundred bucks). Re-tuning is not in this category, IMO, unless its just a code defeat that doesnt cost $$$.
Any other ideas here?
-Joe
Anyone have any progress on an easier solution to getting rid of codes and bypassing all this regen stuff? Seems like there were some folks onto something a while ago.
I agree with the last comment there, that we might be giving the ECU too much credit here. It seems that if we can maintain some reasonable level of pressure differential, either mechanically (with a reducer or throttle) or electronically (with a resistor) the computer would be happy and leave you alone. I would think there is a happy range the pressure differential needs to be in. Not too big to indicate a clogged filter, nor no difference which would indicate a blown open filter.
Even though I think the temp sensors arent really in play in all this, I would think that the EGT(1) readings would only affect fuel mixture if its not reaching a min temp or has exceeded a max temp, other than monitoring a differential during a regen process. The former is common on most other types of vehicles with EGT sensing, usually. I also think that the 2 temp sensor set up would work the same as a 2 O2 sensor setup in most cars where the (#1) sensor feedsback air/fuel on a gas vehicle and the (#2) only monitors cat efficiency (signals are relative to (1) sensor, either in steady state high voltage state or out of phase from (1)).
So my guess is that as long as (2) EGT is a "little hotter??" than (1) the ECU will leave you alone, and if (1) is in a reasonable temp range. I actually dont think you would have to do anything with (1).
This is all conjecture so dont take anything away from this other than sparking some dicussion, and maybe some motivation again. Im not an expert in any of this. These ideas are an extension of others' and from my knowledge of feedback control systems.
The only problem with this is how to deal with the periodic regens...
Im buying (havent yet..) this LMM strictly for towing a 10,000lb trailer and I DO NOT want to get stuck in the middle of nowhere with an uncooperative truck being a Pansie! I also 'was' looking at this 07 LMM for a full warranty which Im starting to reconsider at this point if this DPF thing is such a pain in the balls.
After test driving a LMM right after driving a friend's stock LLY, the LMM DOES NOT pull as hard as the LLY when you stand on it. I thought the parking brake was on, it was that noticeable! My only guess is that its due to the DPF.. Im open to other ideas here, but Im seriously reconsidering this purchase unless there's a relatively easy and cheap fix (exhaust work is relatively cheap, a couple hundred bucks). Re-tuning is not in this category, IMO, unless its just a code defeat that doesnt cost $$$.
Any other ideas here?
-Joe