Analog solution to DOC/DPF delete? [Archive] - Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums

: Analog solution to DOC/DPF delete?


Jo Boo
11-25-2007, 02:18 PM
Bumping an old thread. (http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=127765)

Anyone have any progress on an easier solution to getting rid of codes and bypassing all this regen stuff? Seems like there were some folks onto something a while ago.

I agree with the last comment there, that we might be giving the ECU too much credit here. It seems that if we can maintain some reasonable level of pressure differential, either mechanically (with a reducer or throttle) or electronically (with a resistor) the computer would be happy and leave you alone. I would think there is a happy range the pressure differential needs to be in. Not too big to indicate a clogged filter, nor no difference which would indicate a blown open filter.

Even though I think the temp sensors arent really in play in all this, I would think that the EGT(1) readings would only affect fuel mixture if its not reaching a min temp or has exceeded a max temp, other than monitoring a differential during a regen process. The former is common on most other types of vehicles with EGT sensing, usually. I also think that the 2 temp sensor set up would work the same as a 2 O2 sensor setup in most cars where the (#1) sensor feedsback air/fuel on a gas vehicle and the (#2) only monitors cat efficiency (signals are relative to (1) sensor, either in steady state high voltage state or out of phase from (1)).

So my guess is that as long as (2) EGT is a "little hotter??" than (1) the ECU will leave you alone, and if (1) is in a reasonable temp range. I actually dont think you would have to do anything with (1).

This is all conjecture so dont take anything away from this other than sparking some dicussion, and maybe some motivation again. Im not an expert in any of this. These ideas are an extension of others' and from my knowledge of feedback control systems.

The only problem with this is how to deal with the periodic regens...

Im buying (havent yet..) this LMM strictly for towing a 10,000lb trailer and I DO NOT want to get stuck in the middle of nowhere with an uncooperative truck being a Pansie! I also 'was' looking at this 07 LMM for a full warranty which Im starting to reconsider at this point if this DPF thing is such a pain in the balls.

After test driving a LMM right after driving a friend's stock LLY, the LMM DOES NOT pull as hard as the LLY when you stand on it. I thought the parking brake was on, it was that noticeable! My only guess is that its due to the DPF.. Im open to other ideas here, but Im seriously reconsidering this purchase unless there's a relatively easy and cheap fix (exhaust work is relatively cheap, a couple hundred bucks). Re-tuning is not in this category, IMO, unless its just a code defeat that doesnt cost $$$.

Any other ideas here?
-Joe

Jo Boo
11-25-2007, 02:20 PM
Sorry, this is all assuming you removed the DOC and DPF with a turbo/downpipe back setup. But I figured you all knew that :cool:

Id actually be fine with a cat back if it keeps my sanity with on long tows.

fire0021
11-25-2007, 04:10 PM
ok well the short version is if you leave any thing plugged in it will atempt to regen even if you somehow fool the sensors into stock parameters it will still regen. there are now 4 options for dpf reprograming and think that is a much better alternative then trying to mess with the sensors imo with the quadzilla being the cheapest hp tuners after that efi lve and then ppe being the most, i would rather go theese routes. plus with all those options u are adding power and mpg econymy

Jo Boo
11-25-2007, 05:20 PM
ok well the short version is ... imo with the quadzilla being the cheapest hp tuners after that efi lve and then ppe being the most, i would rather go theese routes. plus with all those options u are adding power and mpg econymy

Thanks for the short version :) I was wondering why everyone totally dropped this angle for the better part of this year. I guess I'll just drive it with the DPF on and see how things go. I wont be towing until next spring anyways. If the mileage sucks, and if any DPF issues cant be resolved by the dealer (fingers crossed that there wont be any) I'll end up with another turbo back on all my cars!

I really wanted to keep this thing stock and keep the 100k warranty intact. I already have too many modded cars and just for once I thought I can have a headache free vehicle :rolleyes:

I havent yet closed the deal on this yet, so there's still time for me to get cold feet

ZF6 MAN
11-25-2007, 09:17 PM
if the warranty is the only thing that you are worried about then save all of the stuff you take of out behind the garage and if you need to return it for some reason then put it back on and go to the dealer. Back when I was in Warranty I did it twice once with the intake and the VA and the secone with intake, VA and the Exhaust

Jo Boo
11-25-2007, 10:08 PM
if the warranty is the only thing that you are worried about then save all of the stuff you take of out behind the garage and if you need to return it for some reason then put it back on and go to the dealer. Back when I was in Warranty I did it twice once with the intake and the VA and the secone with intake, VA and the Exhaust

Yeah, I did this with two of my other cars, and Im at a point where I dont have the patience nor time for it anymore. I would have everything stashed if I were ever to mod on. I just think that we're spending a lot of cake on these trucks to be doing this. I just want **** to work and not have to think about it. If I wasnt worried about the warranty, I think Id opt for an 05/06, but this being my first American car/truck Im a little wary.

Im fine with the DPF, just dont want to deal with the potential of getting stuck towing a load, caught out regen'ing when you need to put your foot through the floor, or just getting stuck period! A little preventative measure goes a long way for peace of mind, but only marginally if I have to put up with dealer bs for other issues that may come around.

Im still a little irked that the LLY I drove pulls harder than the LLM (via the butt dyno). Could it just be the DPF? Hell my STI pulls harder than the LLM I drove!

Thanks for all the suggestions! I think the thing is staying stock unless I get frustrated with all the emissions carp.

JoshH
11-26-2007, 02:38 AM
First off, what are you wanting to do? At first I thought you wanted to remove the DPF and keep it from throwing codes, but then I read where you wanted to keep it stock so you've got me confused. Anyway, to somewhat answer your question, if I'm understanding everything I've read correctly, if the system hasn't regened in a certain number of miles it will cause problems regardless of what the pressure sensors say.

Secondly, unless the LMM has serious problems, there is no way a stock LLY is faster than a stock LMM.

Jo Boo
11-26-2007, 10:06 AM
Sorry about the confusion, as Im still probably confused and a bit torn on this matter. Id be fine and happy keeping the LMM stock, and prefer to if possible. However, I wouldnt hesitate to rip out the emissions stuff if it gives me grief, or even worse, gets me stuck. This then would entail some effort to make the truck behave properly (supress codes, not let it try to regen, etc), If there was an easy way to trick it, Im all for it since I really have no interest in tuning the thing.

That being said, if out of the box Im going to mod this thing then I have to ask myself Why am I buying a new truck? This is literally my $40k dillemma... Im paying a premium for having the long warranty, taking a big depreciation hit for a new vehicle. If im going to mod it, then Id just buy a LLY (probably not earlier though). My motivation here is that I get into a new truck and drive it a long time with the peace of mind of a warranty, but that wont be used often I hope.

In this thread Im just trying to get a measure of the PITA factor if I do come across issues with the DPF and have to take matters into my own hands. As I havent committed to buying the truck yet... I appreciate all the input, it certainly helps me gauge where people are on this matter and your experiences.


I would also think that a stock LLY should not be faster than a stock LMM. Thats why Im irked after my test drive.. Good to know that you think LMM>LLY. I dunno maybe my butt dyno needs a recalibration, but I seriously thought the e-brake was on even when I floored it.