I've been reading a lot lately about break ins by people jamming screwdrivers into the lock cylinder and turning them.

Well I came up with a free (that's right I said free) mod to help fight this.

This will work on all 03 and up, non base gm fullsize rigs (I need to check on pre03s)

A big problem is that when they turn the cylinder it disables the factory alarm. So to make the alarm go off when you might need it to, you gotta beat the crooks at there own game...fool the alarm, don't let it think the dirt bag used the key. How do you do that...it's easy and I'll tell you.

Remove the drivers door panel.
Peel back vapor barrier at rear of door.
look inside rear of door and you'll see the Door Jam Switch.
Unplug C3, marked light green has two wires Light Blue and Light Green

Reassemble and repeat on passenger door if it has a lock
If you have a passenger door lock cylinder, you may want to disconnect the lock rod on the drivers door. Here's what happens when dirt bag tries to break into your truck after you do the mod you're ole buddy Ox just told ya...

The cylinder can be pried but it doesn't disarm the alarm. when dirt-bag opens the door, it triggers the alarm, hopefully making him not want to be there. I said help, not totaly prevent.

Now if you disconnect the lock rod on the drivers door and dirt bag pries the lock nothing happens. they could still go to the passenger side, but then they'll get the alarm.

Now if you really want to get them good, disconnect the lock rods altogether, you can also add rear door handles to the front with no locks.

Now you may ask yourself what if the battery goes dead in the truck...
not to worry...yer ole buddy Ox has a solution for that too.

Connect a wire to the tan wire on the Door Jamb Switch in any of the two or four doors and run it to anywhere on the truck and mack sure you use good wire and insulate the end. I'm not going to make any recommendations on where to run this to and I advise others not to as well, this helps keep it random. Now in the case of battery run down, you connect the ground of a 12-volt source to the truck and the positive to the wire you hid (for just a second) and bam, your magic door unlocks. I can't see a thief carrying a battery add looking for a random wire so if you do a good job this should be safe...

Hope this helps some people out...

Ox

Thanks for the tip OX.

Does this do anything to the O'so faithful Onstar system?

Ox you read my mind and beat me too it. That is pretty much exactly what I had in mind. I was going to suggest removing the lock cylinder altogether and put a plug in so that might confuse the theif and he will hopefully move on. I have some chrome plugs that are perfect for the job and look pretty much like lock cylinders without the hole for the key. Buying new door handles without the lock holes is the best way to do it. If there is a lock cylinder in place he will still try to get in doing damage to the door handle, lock cylinder and possibly the paint as well.

I was also going to try to rig up a switch on the door handle itself and tie it into the door pin wire so that if someone was walking by and lifted the door handle it would set off the alarm as well. This would be handy because I would think that most thieves would try to see if the truck was unloced before breaking in. No one should be lifting your door handle unless they are trying to get in anyways.

Great job! This will save some people some break ins for sure!


Now in your post you mention to run a wire to the tan wire in one of the doors. The tan wire will be grounded by the drivers door module so you will actually need to cut that tan wire and place a diode in there to prevent a dead short and possibly damage to the drivers door module.

Does this do anything to the O'so faithful Onstar system? No, on star is still in tact unless the battery is dead on the truck.

I say run some #4 wire from the positive battery to the lock cylinder. Then, you just need to make sure they touch the truck somewhere when they jam the screw driver in.

Rocking 12V won't give you much if any shock at all.

Hey Max.....12 v wont but we got some capacitors that are the size of soup cans......might have to get a couple of them):h Anyone figure out a way to get em wired in sires and charge off the factroy system yet arm with my compustar alarm I got from blueOx?

I might have to go this route......only problem is i need to get my damn back up alarm on a ign hot relay so I can use my keyless entry at night without setting it off.

I already have a set of black esky handles, guess I need to sell em off and buy some new ones:rolleyes:

GREAT INFO:cool:

Thanks Ox, great post

But I don't get it. Why did GM put such an easily defeatable system in place?

I was also going to try to rig up a switch on the door handle itself and tie it into the door pin wire so that if someone was walking by and lifted the door handle it would set off the alarm as well. This would be handy because I would think that most thieves would try to see if the truck was unloced before breaking in. No one should be lifting your door handle unless they are trying to get in anyways.

More please. This would set the alarm off only if the doors have been locked, system armed, correct?

More please. This would set the alarm off only if the doors have been locked, system armed, correct?Correct

if the system is armed and the door is opened by using any means beside the keyless entry(if you open it from the inside even) it will go off

Dosnt do anything for the dirt bag that just breaks the window and reaches inside like he did on my truck:mad: But I have an alarm with a windo break senso so i should be good. Also have my alarm set up to trigger my whirly lights so my truck REALLY stands out when it gets pissed off.

Yeh,
There are some good ideas here, but of most of the break-ins that I've seen, rarely do they ever jam a screwdriver into the lock cylinder with these trucks. They usually jam it between the door skin itself & the handle plate, pry the entire handle assembly (including lock cylinder) out, which provides access to the lock accuator rod.

Either way, the simplest way to defeat this method of entry is to remove the front lock cylinders & rods (& disconnect the keyed entry defeat as mention previously). The cleanest way to accomplish this is to install rear door style handles (without locks) on the front doors, & then install a quick-connect booster cable system (which are very inexpensive & quite handy) like the one Warn Ind. features here;
http://www.warn.com/truck/accessories/quick_connect_cables.shtml
In the event of a loss of battery power, this will allow you to hook up a set of jumper cables cleanly from the outside via the cables quick-connector located in the grill, under the bumper (or wherever you decide to install it) which will provide power to a dead battery & allow you to open the doors with your usual keyless remote. Once in, you crank her over, disconnect your cables from the other vehicle, & off you go (if you have no power you're going to need a jump start anyway)
The Quick-connect cables are very easy to install as are the rear handle plates, & this method will deter most "thiefs of opportunity" (the most common type). But make no mistake, a pro will get what he wants, regardless.

Hope this helps. ):h

PS-make sure you leave the jumper cables for the quick-connect located somewhere outside the cab. I sometimes bunjee them in a jumper cable bag in the spare tire area.

if the system is armed and the door is opened by using any means beside the keyless entry(if you open it from the inside even) it will go off

Dosnt do anything for the dirt bag that just breaks the window and reaches inside like he did on my truck:mad:
Right, exactly why the Max mod is needed. He would have to use a handle sometime):h

I always thought it would be cool to have a couple of train horns inside the cab pointed right at the thief. Blast that sucker right out of the truck. :D

Loki_Nine, Weather they turn the cylinder or pry the whole handle out, they move the lock rod. The lock rod connects to the door jam switch, and switch inside closes sending the door lock signal to the DDM. If the problem is as you say what's the point in recommending different door handles with out lock cylinders? Do you sell them or something? Won't a thief pry off a door handle without a lock the same as one with? ....Survey says...Yes! Why go buy a remote booster cable system you don't need and can't use in this case anyway. What are you going to do, carry the cables with the special plug around with you all the time? Maybe you do, cuz you sell them... but for most people they'll be in the truck...locked. If you run a wire like I said that wire would be a couple bucks, unless you already have it. Then you can use any jumper cables (including the Warn ones) to jump start the truck. But really, how often do you guys run the batteries totally dead with the truck locked anyway?
I love it how the most simple easy to do tips on here get nuked out. Especially when people want to contradict with obviously bad info, for what reason, Not sure but have ideas...

Tony, you can connect the wire like I said, if you put a diode in the lock on that door won't work right. I know of many 03 GMs with after-market alarms wired this way prior to DB interfaces.

For those who took this info and found it helpful, you're welcome...

Ox

Gm used to make the door jam switches to where if you pulled the handle, the dome light came on. They stopped this when they started adding the alarm feature because if you wire it in this way any time the handle is puled and the door is locked the alarm will go off. this could lead to a lot of false triggers and pissed off neighbors... just something to think about.
I think this could be done by modifying the door jam switch instead of adding a switch...I'll have to pull one apart and see...

Ox

Loki_Nine, Weather they turn the cylinder or pry the whole handle out, they move the lock rod. The lock rod connects to the door jam switch, and switch inside closes sending the door lock signal to the DDM. If the problem is as you say what's the point in recommending different door handles with out lock cylinders? Do you sell them or something? Won't a thief pry off a door handle without a lock the same as one with? ....Survey says...Yes! Why go buy a remote booster cable system you don't need and can't use in this case anyway. What are you going to do, carry the cables with the special plug around with you all the time? Maybe you do, cuz you sell them... but for most people they'll be in the truck...locked. If you run a wire like I said that wire would be a couple bucks, unless you already have it. Then you can use any jumper cables (including the Warn ones) to jump start the truck. But really, how often do you guys run the batteries totally dead with the truck locked anyway?
I love it how the most simple easy to do tips on here get nuked out. Especially when people want to contradict with obviously bad info, for what reason, Not sure but have ideas...
BlueOx03,
It was not my intention to insult you or your solution, I was simply supplying an alternative method (mostly regarding power supply to a "dead" vehicle-which seems to be a concern). No "nuking" was intended.

I am NOT a vendor of ANY of the products listed on this site-in any of my replys-or in my profile. I am a fuel retailer with a repair shop. In my shop, we provide solutions for our customers that work best, & this one works well both for myself (all my tow trucks, service vehicles, & personel truck have some type of quick-connect jumper system) & for the occasional more serious vehicle owners I encounter (4 wheelers, Sportsmen, etc..)

I was providing another option for folks here & if that doesn't sit well with you I'm sorry, but people here are quite capable of deciding what is best (or too costly) for themselves, & I don't see how my providing them with additional information is harmful.

If I knew that this thread held so much meaning to you that you would attack me for replying, I would not have done so.

I want my alarm to go off if the handle is pulled. There is no reason for people going around pulling the handles.

If you read my first post, you'll see that I mention installing handles with no cylinders.

You didn't answer my questions...

How does a handle without a lock prevent being pried off better than one with?

What good is that remote booster when the cable is locked up in your dead truck?

Just trying to figure out your point and your motive...nothing personal...

Ox

Tony,
You're right, but that doesn't mean you or someone you want getting in your truck won't pull the handle while it's armed by accident...My neighbors have theirs this way and set it off all the time...drives me batty...

Ox

If you read my first post, you'll see that I mention installing handles with no cylinders. You didn't answer my questions... How does a handle without a lock prevent being pried off better than one with? What good is that remote booster when the cable is locked up in your dead truck? Just trying to figure out your point and your motive...nothing personal... Ox

Well BlueOx03, if you took some time to thoroughly read my post, you would see where it states to remove the accuator rods that attach to the key lock cylinders. This prevents the vehicle from being quickly unlocked regardless of whether there is a door handle present, or it is completely ripped from the vehicle.

I also reminded people if they chose this method never to store the jumper portion of the cables inside the cab of a keyless entry vehicle (at the bottom of the post in a PS), lots of people do this without problems. After all, most thieves want the truck (or whats valuable inside,ie-stereo,phone,briefcase,etc..) not some half set of jumper cables that are useless to them.

I believe all points were made (including mine) in this thread, & my motive as always is to provide help via experience & information.

Hope this clears things up.

Yeah PS on edit...nice back peddle, give me a break...Yeah I read that you said disconnect the lock rods in you post...just like I said in my first post. So you're trying to echo me? why do you think I mentioned a way to unlock in case of battery run down?

I've got Another just in case Idea that I think will sit well with just about everyone. I typed the first post in the middle of the night...couldn't sleep...

How about storing a 7 pin trailer connector somewhere. You have connection to the battery already there. You can just connect jumpers to the trailer plug are unlock with the remote...

How's that?

Ox

c'mon Ox

You had a good thread going here:) . I'm learning alot from your initial effort, let the discussion rock on. (Or else I'll have to give you both time outs.)

That from the king of diplomacy!

Max

Do you think now that you would be crazy with false alarms?

Another thing, came up in another post. Why cables? The grill comes off, and hood pops in 30 secs (I'm slow).

Max

Do you think now that you would be crazy with false alarms?For myself no. My truck is in my garage when at home. My life is routine so I almost always know when it is locked or unlocked. Personally the handles setting off the alarm would work very well for me.

masterp2,
Quick-connect cables are an inexpensive add-on that is convienent & safe. Here in the Northeast (or anywhere else it gets cold), the last thing I want to be playing around with on some 10 below zero day/nite (when weak batterys go dead & plastic is brittle) is the grill. Besides, sooner or later you're gonna have to jump start that electrically dead vehicle anyway. I was just killing two birds with one stone.

Ox,
yes, you did begin the thread. yes, some of the things I mentioned were already brought up by you (sorry I did not give you credit for stating it first)
Accessing the door lock accuators via the trailer connector is a new one so that credit definitly belongs to you.

Now putting aside all egos, I am intereseted in the trailer connector concept, but on a professional level I am concerned/unsure as to the ability of "energizing" the vehicle enough to be able to operate the door lock accuator system (& any associated components) this way without inadvertently causing some "excessive draw" damage. Have you (or anyone out there) tried this (or something similar) before?
I'm not trying to poke holes in your idea (or be a wiseguy), I really would like to know.

Yeah, that's like charging the battery through the cigarette lighter.

I'm not OX, but I could say that if you have a few minutes and a battery that will accept a charge, you might get system voltage to the point where you could unlock. Heck, I don't know, maybe a 2 amp charger on the trailer harness would be enough, even with a badly damaged battery.

I have a battery tender that has a "charge" rate of 1-2 amps flowing through 18 gauge wire (I think).

This is getting off topic a bit. Sorry. Hell just break the window!!!!!!

Just my $.02. A pro will have your vehicle in less than a minute with no visible damage using only the factory alarm. Less than two minutes with minor damage using aftermarket alarms. (exceptions being many of the new high end spot/exotic vehicles that are totlally keyless with intelligent alarms)

In the Chevy and GMC there are hundreds of spots within reach of the driver to hide a small toggle circuit defeat switch which you can connect inline with any of numerous circuits which, without signal, wiil not allow the ecm to operate the vehicle.

The pro will will be gone in 3 minutes if he/she can't make the vehicle operational.

As for break and snatch, everyone is just f*&#@d (f*&#@d) on this one. Pro's don't want your stuff in the cab. Street trash will try to force your locks or break your windows if they think what you have in the cab is worth it. They don't care about alarms. In, out, gone. You lose your stuff, keep your truck.

As suggested in an earlier post, sound in the cab will dissuade anyone rummaging through it. A 110-120 db siren is extremely painful, even to PCP freaks and tweakers, at 6 feet in an open space. In your cab, it turns your brain to s*#t. Another deterrent would be OCM spray. A mixture of pepper spray and mace. There are a number of places online where it can be purchased in the cannister size with a mechanical trip mechanism which is easily adaptable to solenoid operation. It will keep a perp away from your truck about fifteen minutes after break-in. Be sure to roll all your windows down and air out the cab while you drive it home and into the next day, or you won't be liking it. Do not load fido into the truck cab for at least a week. Fido ain't gonna like none of it.

p.s. replies respected, but I'm not interested in going into design and detail. My attitude is that if you don't have enough knowlege of what you drive to repair/alter/redesign it, then, insure it, get a good mechanic and don't worry about it.

I may be a bit of a hot head from time to time...remember earlier I said I didn't sleep so well last night...but you guys gotta admit it happens all the time...someone comes up with something good and simple and it gets nuked out to no end...gets old.

I want you all to think about something...how many times have you come out to your truck and it was locked up AND totally dead? Not to say it can't happen, but I think that's pretty damn rare. I've never seen it. I wrote up a backup plan for incase you do remove the lock rods and your battery goes dead. The first idea may not have been good, good catch by Tony, it's been a while, but I swear that's how we wired the 03s before DB interfaces...I can't remember everything.
Now I really think the trailer harness thing will work fine. Like Michael said, they make jump starters that go though the cigarette lighter. The trailer harness has a much bigger wire then the cigar lighter. I don't mean jump start your truck though the trailer plug, just give it enough juice to unlock it.
Now we can "what if" this to death, but why? Last I checked these trucks were smart enough to turn off stuff we leave on so they don't die. Now if you leave the key on and lock it, you have problems. If you do that, you're a real meatball!

Maybe in the end you should just try leaving it running with the keys in it...that surprisingly scares people...works for me.

Michelle?? I was stickin up for yew,

What, cause i don't like LOC's?

Fagetupowt it, probly just my brasive nature, I'm workin on dat.:)

Holly poop! Sorry Michael! That was the spell check and me not paying attention...I'll fix it... :eek: ):h

Me too ):h :D ):h

Mp2, i don't know if he was insulting you. The French use Michelle for a man's name and shorten it to Mike.

I have one more issue with this setup. The possibility of the battery going dead is not really all that high. I am more concerned about what happens if the transmitter batteries go dead in the middle of knowhere or worse yet the Drivers door lock module quits which has been known to happen.

This is why I like BO's (I got back at him for you masterp2) method of hiding a wire somewhere to unclock the door. I think all that would be required for that to work is a diode. I bet you could even unlock it with a 9v battery if you had to. It is not 100% foolproof but it is getting there. This still could leave you stranded if you were in the middle of nowhere. To me an ideal situaltion would be some kind of stealthy mechanical unlock. I am sure it is possible to do it but it's not likely to be a DIY thing for everyone. It may be worth looking into however.

Nothing is fool proof but if you make it a bit harder on the crook, he might just say to he11 with it and move on to the next victim. That is the main goal after all. I honestly believe that a flashing LED is as good as any theft detterant. I am going to disable my lock rods, remove my key cylinders (replace with plug) and wire in the door handle to set off my alarm. On top of that I have an alarm with a flashing LED and all the appropriate sensors. I also try to leave very little in my truck and even less visible.

If they still want my dirty diesel smelling gloves under the seat that bad, they can have them.

Aah, no worries. Ox is a good joe.


Max, can a switch be done that set's off the alarm when jimmied from the inside, (doors closed) not the outside handles?

If there are no key drums on the outside, you have to break a window (if you are a hack criminal) and open from inside.

I'm gettin set to install strobes, will probably hook them up to the alarm also.

If they still want my dirty diesel smelling gloves under the seat that bad, they can have them.

Make sure they get the complementary 45 cal slug that comes with it. If I saw someone breaking into someone elses vehicle or house I would defend just as much as my own. Well maybe not as much but they would certainly have there hands full if I caught them.

"In the Chevy and GMC there are hundreds of spots within reach of the driver to hide a small toggle circuit defeat switch which you can connect inline with any of numerous circuits which, without signal, wiil not allow the ecm to operate the vehicle."

This seems like one good idea for long term lock ups. Any suggestions on which ecm wire to tap into?

This thread as a whole offers some good info for decreasing the chances of loosing the vehicle. Thanks for the info/ideas.

sp33d I wouldn't worry about doing that. Your truck has passlock 2. The only way anyone is going to steel it is by copying the key or with a tow truck.

What specifically does passlock 2 do to make it impossible to steal w/o the key? He mentioned a good thief that wants the truck would have it in 2 minutes... If he doesn't have the key and you say they would be unable to steal it without the key or tow truck, what am I missing?

There is a hall effect sensor in the ignition switch. When they key is turned in side that cylinder it gives a hall effect reading which is converted to a certain resistance which in turn provides voltage to the ecm. If the ecm does not see the proper resistance it will not allow the truck to start. If he were to manage to wire something up and guess at a voltage and guess wrong, the truck will not start for 10 minutes or so even if it does see the correct value.

Now there are ways around this of course but nothing a crook is going to do in 2 minutes or 30 minutes for that matter. I seriously wouldn't worry about it all.

So I assume the reading/resistance is different/random in each vehicle?

I have wondered about this tony. I know that earlier Fords, and Gm's I think, had a chip in the key, a real irritant when going to the "hardware" store to dupicate (not) had to go to the dealer.

Now, I am told the chip, is now in the ignition. Don't get it really. How does having the "key" with no signature except ridges, do a hall effect thing./ Sorry if this is a toughy.

sp33d, VERY random. Each key will be different. A different cut means a different reading.

masterp3, I'm not sure how to explain this any further.

Here is a quote that explains it a little better
"The Passlock sensor contains two Hall-effect sensors, a resistor and a diode. When the key is inserted into the magnet and the lock cylinder is rotated, an analog voltage code is sent to the Passlock module. This is compared to the last learned voltage code. If the codes match, the Passlock module sends a Class 2 message to the PCM to enable the injectors. "

Technically the hall effect sensors are reading the cut of the key. So if you were to copy they key it would still work. Now lets say your ignition switch was broken and you could turn it without the proper key. So you stick any old key in there and turn the truck to start. When the key is rotated and it is swept past the hall effect sensor it will provide a different reading to the computer then the computer is expecting. So now the computer won't allow the truck to start. There are no "chips" involved.

Now I should add that many insurance companies don't view this as being as secure as a vehicle with transponder key. The reason for this is because if you have your truck in the shop someone can take your key to the hardware store and get a copy made and it will start your truck.

A transpoder key has to be programmed into your vehicle by a dealer or it can be programmed using a sequence that involves using 2 keys that are already programmed in. As you can see the transponder system is slightly more secure but it does have disadvantages as well.

Good stuff as always Max.

So the sensors read each "cut" in the key to determine the resistance (or "code" as I would call it) if I'm understanding right? Just like punching in a code simply, but the code is in the shape of a key with unique characteristics (cuts) rather than, say, numbers. I guess it's not as "secure" as a key that had some type of electronic sender since the sender would also make it more difficult than just getting a copy of the key made as they would than have to worry about getting a key with the correct sender. It's secure enough though in that someone would have to steal your keys at least long enough to get a copy. Very good info to know.

Some trucks are so secure they won't even start with the correct key. My dad's 2000 had a problem where every so often it would not start for 10 minutes, like it had the wrong key. We had the dealer change the key and everything a couple times and it never fixed it. It seemed pretty random. Sometimes it did it 20 times in a month, sometimes not for a month. It was irritating as hell when you would jump in and the damn truck wouldn't start for 10 minutes. It was still doing it when dad traded for his 2004 duramax. Very glad to see that truck go. I wonder if it has done that on a test drive for someone... That would be funny as hell. Serve them (dealer) right for never getting it fixed.

I've been reading a lot lately about break ins by people jamming screwdrivers into the lock cylinder and turning them.

Well I came up with a free (that's right I said free) mod to help fight this.

This will work on all 03 and up, non base gm fullsize rigs (I need to check on pre03s)

A big problem is that when they turn the cylinder it disables the factory alarm.

Ox:confused: Do I have a factory alarm? How can I check/tell?

Just break the window, reach in and open the door.

Tracef: Roll your window down, take the key out and get out and use the keyless entry remote to lock the truck, being sure to click it twice to set the alarm, (most are set to honk when it sets) then reach in and unlock the door from the inside and open the door. Horn honks and lights flash. Stick the key in and start it or use the panic button to stop the alarm.
Basically only usefull if the scum breaks your window to gain access to the door lock.

If that same system is actuated, from what I read your fuel pump is disabled. Diesel no go nowhere.

Ignition Lock Cylinder And Housing
The ignition lock cylinder is located at the upper right side of the steering column. The Passlock(tm) sensor is in the steering column. The Passlock(tm) sensor is separate from the key and lock cylinder. The key and the lock cylinder work together in order to determine if the proper ignition key was used to start the vehicle.

In the event of an open Class 2 serial data line between the BCM and the VCM/PCM, the vehicle will become fail-enabled if the VCM/PCM has already received the password from the BCM for that ignition cycle, the engine is running. In this event, the following conditions occur:



The security telltale will be ON continuously.
The VCM/PCM will become fail-enabled for future ignition cycles


so let me get this straight, for those of us with passlock bypass modules with our remote starters, if someone jimmys the door lock that sends a signal to shut off alarm, remote start vehicle with wire on remote starter (my dei starter has one) then stick screwdriver in ignition forcing to run, remote start then turns over to truck ignition all the while truck is running. then they unplug onstar fuse and drive off in the sunset and live happily ever after. great:(

Interesting Thread.
I drove my truck a few days ago to San Jose on business. Truck was parked off to the side of the hotel to keep the idiots from bashing the sides with their rental car doors. Come out that morning to head to the office and HELLO...passenger side window is all over the parking lot and seats, dash pulled apart, DVD/NAV head unit gone. Everything else appeared to be intact though. After the police took their report, I stuck my key in he ignition switch and it was all bunged up. I got it started, but it was a matter a wiggling the key and forcing matters to get the starter engaged. Looks like the Bast*rds stuck a screwdriver in the ignition to try and steal it but couldn't get it going. I guess I'm going to have to replace the lock cylinder at this point--unless someone has some ideas.
Truck almost appears to be in an electrical "limp-mode" as well. Lots of "check components" lights on (brakes, abs, etc.), no AC, no cruise control, etc. Idiot may have clipped some harness in the dash. I haven't had a chance to check but will take a look this weekend when I put my factory radio back in.
You guys ever see that movie Pulp Fiction where he is taking about someone that keyed the side of his car--it's almost worth it if you could just catch them doing it. I would love to drag some crack junky out by their neck and settle the bill right there.
Nutless Bast*rds!!

What really bites, he can't even use the head-unit. I had the faceplate and it has a security code. He didn't take the brain-box under the back seat. If he would have just lifted the console, I had a $400 MP3 player sitting right there. Maybe they could of at least used that. Oh Yeah, then the insurance adjuster calls me today and says they won't cover the DVD/NAV as I didn't have an endorsement for it. SWEET!!

Instead of the pepper spray idea above, how about a system that shoots a blow-gun dart into the car-thief that injects something that gives them stomach cancer:)...Just my $.10

Great stuff here though..I love this forum..