for a duramax and where can you get it

The best air intake and filter is the one that comes with the Duramax. It generally is shipped with each Duramax.

Jim

I was wondering about performance ones... real funny though. what a clever guy

Afe Pro 7

If you're looking for turbo whine the Pro 7 is the way to go. It's the most efficient of the after market brands. However the OEM paper provides the cleanest air and excellant airflow. More than you will need under any performance situation. I am unable to pull more than 1.5 " WC at WOT with plain ole paper plus you get the efficiency benefit.

Read this:
http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10372
and that:
http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18976

They're all basically the same. A different tube and usually a cotton gauze conical filter. Performance wise, you aren't going to see a difference between any of the intakes out there. It's just what you prefer for looks. I've got a K&N intake right now, but I'm installing a Volant intake this week. Don't ask me why.

I was wondering about performance ones... real funny though. what a clever guyHe is being serious. Spicer (another member) has done alot of filter testing and the best performing filter is the stock filter so do not change it. If you want alittle more air into the box just swish cheese the original air box. Do a search for swish cheece but spell the swish correctly and you find info on it.

I will do some more testing but he wasnt being a wise ass(well maybe just a little:D ). I ran identical times back to back with stock air box with a ac delco filter that was swisscheesed compared to a afe stage 2 with the regular(not as good at filtering dirt but better at flowing air)

The AFE does sound great though.

wackywack.com has some pics IIRC, or maybe its at nictane.com???

Edit: were you at? There may be a member or a vendo that would let you try one out.

As ratlover and others have said, the stock one is just fine. Think about it for a while. The automakers are is a one-upmanship on the diesel horsepower. Now do you really think the Generals engineers are going to leave 5-25 horsepower lay on the table because of an air intake? Afe and others have a real nice shinny tube, a filter you can see through and the marketing mumbo jumbo to make the products sound better. Just remember, they want to get into your wallet. Nobody has published and *independent* dyno numbers on their intakes. Read spicers thread, pay attention to what ratlover said.

Jim

Let's face it, this motor is forced induction. Making the air flow into the turbo smoother will not make more HP. They do this on the gassers because it adds airflow.

:rolleyes: It does however, make more noise. ):h

Stay with the stock air filter and setup.

Tim

So it looks like JHOLLY is indeed a pretty clever guy. Saves money and still gets great filtering.

Stay STOCK!!!!!!!!!! ):h :ro)

I apologize, I did not know the results of the tests. Thanks guys for the advice and help.
Anyone have a picture of a swiss cheese are box?

I apologize, I did not know the results of the tests. Thanks guys for the advice and help.
Anyone have a picture of a swiss cheese are box?
Not to continue to rain on this parade, but I have given this swiss cheese thing a lot of thought. My humble conclusion....there is no way on God's Green Earth that swiss cheesing an airbox could make an ounce of difference. The most restrictive part of our intake is the filter itself. If changing the filter to a "less restrictive" K&N or no filter at all makes no difference, swiss cheese, colby, cheddar or pepper jack your airbox till it is nothing but a shell and a filter and you are still back to where you began. No way any performance benefit from being cheesy!
Try painting your current intake and airbox with the color of your choice. Costs about $3.50 for a can of spray paint. SPICER

So let me understand this, the factory paper air cleaner performs better than the aftermarket set ups? And the data to confirm this was gathered how....?

Well correct me if I am wrong here, but the tighter the media pack(paper) the more restrictive. Spicers comments are true but I believe what people were doing was attempting to get more air to the next bottleneck, which is now the air filter. Short of removing it, you then need to find media that will offer reasonable protection from dirt and other foreign objects and let the most air pass. So the real data to prove that one is better than the other would be the test data of air flow on a bench. The track data that people have posted is not very accurate. There is now way you can tell me you leave the same way at the same RPM and the track is the same and the corrected altitude is the same. An engine dyno might be the best, viable tool if you are looking for HP numbers.

So why do they make them? Why do companies spend $$$ making aftermarket air intake systems?. I have the new AFE system sitting in a box in my garage waiting for my truck to be finished at the dealer for injector repair.

So who has the air flow data for all of the K&N, AirRaid, AFE Pro 7 and AMSOIL 2 stage, and factory?

My .02

So why do they make them? Why do companies spend $$$ making aftermarket air intake systems?. I have the new AFE system sitting in a box in my garage waiting for my truck to be finished at the dealer for injector repair.
Because people buy them. Guys are running very high dyno numbers and quarter mile times with stock airboxes, so obviously it isn't a power bottleneck. At least not for most levels of added power. That, in conjunction with the air filter test data on this page, tells me to put the intake money into something else. my .02.

I suppose if a less restrictive filter can make a HP difference on gassers than you can make a business out of it. While they're at it, it's not too hard to make a few for diesel owners too, someone like me will buy it. Well, not any more.

Not to continue to rain on this parade, but I have given this swiss cheese thing a lot of thought. My humble conclusion....there is no way on God's Green Earth that swiss cheesing an airbox could make an ounce of difference.
Spicer, I have to agree with you. I look a the air box on my 2004.5 and practically the whole side next to the fender is gone, just one big hole. I really don't understand how putting more holes in the box can help. Unless, of course you start punching
holes in the top :D

Jim

i'm new to this site but i would like to add my .02 cents from another website reguardless of wut the performance results are. It will also lower egt's . sure there are fully modified trucks out there with stock airboxs that put down alot of power. i'm sure there could be other benefits. i used to have 1.8t vw. and i had a cold air intake on it and i didn't really feel any diffrence. But when i went back to the stock airbox it pulled harder in the lower rpm's but not in the higher rpm's and didn't sound as good. Just some fuel for thought.

in my opinion, the stock airbox is just fine for the dmax. i did however, place a k&n air filter in my stock box. this is due to me placing many miles on my truck and i find it more economical for me to clean my filter than to buy a replacement every 15000 or so miles. if i would have left the original type air filter, i would have gone through 4 already. that's the same price as the one k&n i bought to replace it. i have over 58000 miles on my truck and bought it back on 3/21/04. i left my stock airbox as it provides the most protection from dirt and debris. the turbos on these trucks can be damaged by the dirt and debris. i feel that the aftermarket intakes are more inclined to get some extra dirt into the turbo area. i did place fpiks on my gassers.

i love when my dmax sounds like a big a$$ peter built. there is nouthing like driving next to a brick wall and hearing that turbo whistle. :ro) afe pro gaurd 7 is the way to go. i was always sick of hearing frds and dogs have a loud whistle and not mine. but now i can sound like them too! :cool:

i used to have an aem intake and that thing had so much more whistle than the pg7 that i have now. i sold it to a friend and i wish i had never sold it. i cant stress how much more louder and more whistle that thing produces is insane. not only that but its about a $100 cheaper than the afe pg7. mine was polished aluminum and looked just as good. i just dont know much about the filter on the aem.

I stuck a VOLANT AirIntake System in my rig. Looks similar to the stock box but the inlet tube is larger and the filter is a large round one. http://www.volantperformance.com/3dkls/iddb/Pictures/15866.jpghttp://www.volantperformance.com/images/primofilters.jpg

whats an aem intake go for and whos a good vendor
i like noise

i got mine off ebay a long while ago. i believe they are called the brute force by aem. i am not sayin that the afe pg7 doesnt make noise, i am just sayin that there is no comparison between the aem and the afe on the noise factor! go here (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=38634&item=7944207511&rd=1) for one on ebay. :D

the aem intake is on ebay all the time now just look up duramax. Also rpmoutlet.com sells them i dunno how much. i like aem's stuff but i'm goin with the afe stage 2.

I'm not going to say that swisscheesing helped performance but it has 2 benifits

1. You cant beat the price. Its free!
2. I did make a bit more turbo noise.

Painting your intake only helps if you paint the bottom a light color or a shinny color(even better) and leave the top black. I could go into the scientific explination but it would probably go over your head. ):h

:p Said like a true FIB!;)

I bet you think I work for K&N dont you):h

No, K&N wouldn't insult me by claiming they are smarter than me, they would insult me by telling me a bunch of bu!! sh** straight faced and expecting me to believe them, give them my money, and tattoo "I LOVE K&N" on my butt!!! SPICER

Let's face it, this motor is forced induction. Making the air flow into the turbo smoother will not make more HP. They do this on the gassers because it adds airflow.

:rolleyes: It does however, make more noise. ):h
so without spending $400-ish on the AFE Stage 2, how can i get that "noise" out of a stock air intake? :D

the aem intake is on ebay all the time now just look up duramax. Also rpmoutlet.com sells them i dunno how much. i like aem's stuff but i'm goin with the afe stage 2.
just wondering, if you like AEM's stuff, why are you spending more $$$ for the AFE stage 2? Not being a smartass, just curious, thanks.......

I'm not going to say that swisscheesing helped performance but it has 2 benifits

1. You cant beat the price. Its free!
2. I did make a bit more turbo noise.

Painting your intake only helps if you paint the bottom a light color or a shinny color(even better) and leave the top black. I could go into the scientific explination but it would probably go over your head. ):hActually, its the other way around, you would paint the top (outside surfaces) white, and the inside surfaces black. Lamp black absorbs the heat, whereas the white reflects the heat into the atmosphere. We did these tests in engineering classes years ago, and there is some merit to this process for heat absorbtion. You were close, but 180 degrees from correct...

I have recently tried an S&B brand filter and box. The tube from them is not ready yet for the LLY. They claim to have met and exceeded the factory filter specs. I don't know about more power, but I picked up some increased fuel mileage from this box on both my LLY's. I have modified one with even better results. I mainly use cleanable filters because I average over 10,000 miles a month on 3 trucks and paper elements would get expensive for me. Do a search here for my thread and good luck however you do it.

Actually, its the other way around, you would paint the top (outside surfaces) white, and the inside surfaces black. Lamp black absorbs the heat, whereas the white reflects the heat into the atmosphere. We did these tests in engineering classes years ago, and there is some merit to this process for heat absorbtion. You were close, but 180 degrees from correct...
I don't think he was referring to the "top" as the "outside" vs. inside. I believe he intended that the lower section of the box that is more exposed to the heat of the engine compartment and radiant heat from the radiator and nearby exhaust manifold should be light or reflective. The top is less important since it is in pretty close proximity to the inside of the hood.:rolleyes: