Yesterday we had our end of the year rule change meeting, and it didn't turn out too well. Basically they want 2 classes. Diesel Street which means 100% stock with no blocking. The 2nd class is Pro Stock Diesel which is basically any truck that has even the smallest modification which will include trucks running twins, dual cp3's, p pumps etc. I know it sounds completley stupid, but the worst part is any truck running in this class has to have a transmission blanket, air shutoff and axle shields. A lot of us run our trucks everyday and pull and don't want to have to run those items. I'm even considering not even pulling anymore, but before I go to that extreme I have some questions.
1. Where do I get those items and not have it cost a lot of $$$
2. Can I run a tranny blanket on the street without it overheating
3. Where do I start with rigging up an air shutoff
Thanks guys for listening to me ramble and any help that you can provide me with. Chad

I'll be payin close attention to this myself, our rules are going the same way.

that is pretty retarded to have only two classes, with the tractors we farm stock, modified stock, and pro stock. That way you wouldnt have slightly modified ones against ones that had thousands worth of upgrades.

those rules (as far as safty stuff) seem to be getting adopted more and more everywhere. but you guys need to realise that it is for the safty of the crowd and for the clubs to be able to keep there insurance policies. take your truck Chad yes you can drive it but it is what 500hp give or take ? is that still really a street truck or would that be a high HP competative truck?

I am not cutting on you but with chips these days it is far to easy for some no nothing guy to put 500hp down at a pull and kill someone.

Yesterday we had our end of the year rule change meeting, and it didn't turn out too well. Basically they want 2 classes. Diesel Street which means 100% stock with no blocking. The 2nd class is Pro Stock Diesel which is basically any truck that has even the smallest modification which will include trucks running twins, dual cp3's, p pumps etc. I know it sounds completley stupid, but the worst part is any truck running in this class has to have a transmission blanket, air shutoff and axle shields. A lot of us run our trucks everyday and pull and don't want to have to run those items. I'm even considering not even pulling anymore, but before I go to that extreme I have some questions.
1. Where do I get those items and not have it cost a lot of $$$
2. Can I run a tranny blanket on the street without it overheating
3. Where do I start with rigging up an air shutoff
Thanks guys for listening to me ramble and any help that you can provide me with. Chad
My most used statement lately has been: "Screw it, I'm going drag racing" Some of the same stuff going on here :mad:

That is a sign of things to come with the rules. Like Destroked said, its expensive to carry a 3 million dollar insurance policy and when your rules reflect safety, the price goes down some.

Air shutoff's can be made for less then 50 bux. Trans blankets will come around easier as more people need them, demand goes up, supply will follow.

I can understand the safety reasons and rules, but for the less modified to have to run with the totally modified, I don't feel is right (sorry Steve:D). I think those are going to be our rule changes too though.

I've been doing ok and we have been running only one diesel truck class, but would like to see a few classes.:)

it is sad, but what we tend to see in our tech inspections is that the "less modified" people are the ones that pose the biggest risk for failure. see your bigger built truck guys usually all ready have the safty stuff to protect there investment, and the lower hp guys are out there pushing above and beyond the call of duty for there poor little stock charger witch is far from safe.

example : we have a Dmax guy that runs with us from time to time and allways crys that he is stock except for EFI live , witch is true but he also states that he is allways running above 40psi+ and that he knows it is going to go boom sooner than later . I have also seen it spit out a few drive shafts cuase of the hp level. Now is it safe to let a truck like that pull in a street class where you don't need safty gear ???

correct me if i'm wrong but most driveshafts that break fall into the shields or chains that you have rigged up underneath. i can see a mod truck that turns 8-9000 rpm's, but when we turn 3000-4000?? Eric could you instruct me on how to go about an air shutoff, and where I can go about getting a blanket? It would be greatly appreciated. Also for axle shields couldn't a person make a circular piece of plating that was atleast 0.60 and put it behind your center caps?

Not trying to stir up dirt but it is pretty sad when I can take my truck to the local drag strip 1/8 mile and have no safety mods whatsoever. I could be running twins, nos, propane, water, and dual cp3 and not have to have a tranny blanket or air shutoff. To me going 70,80-90 miles an hour is more dangerous than 15-25 on dirt. Just my 2 cents not intended to piss anyone off. I can see all sides.

yeah, these rules are screwing over the little guys. it makes no sense to have a guy like me pull against a highly modded 12v cummins that couldnt drive on the street to save its own life...

i see no need to run a tranny blanket at all. i can understand the airshutoff.

what all mods are allowed in the street diesel? you said no blocking, but what else...

mcmaster-carr is your friend...

search "blast gate"

u guys have it alittle wore than here, but it is the same there is 2 classes, stock and street stock, stock class is what it says it is, street stock is everything else, so they put guys like me who only have a exhaust and a box and a limited buget, up aginst guys with trailer queens, that have 50k into there truck, and alot of guys have been compaining, and not pulling, there should be 3 classes
Stock- like it came from the factory
sportsman- guys with limited mods, intake, exhaust, tuner, tranny upgrade, and stock
size turbo
open class- heads up run what you brought

yeah, these rules are screwing over the little guys. it makes no sense to have a guy like me pull against a highly modded 12v cummins that couldnt drive on the street to save its own life...

i see no need to run a tranny blanket at all. i can understand the airshutoff.

what all mods are allowed in the street diesel? you said no blocking, but what else...
The street diesel is the exact way it came from the lot. As long as it doesn't smoke they said their won't be any problems. Well I'm sorry but you can make a tune to not smoke at all. So basically that class is screwed as well.

I can understand some of this but we have ONE class(diesel)
I pull against 02Freighttrain, The Mega Wicked Dodge, a twinned Fummins, twinned Dodges, <---these are the big name trucks but you name it, like I said we have one class. All I can say is work on your setup..... I do.

i honestly don't mind that fact that i'll more or less be running against pure trailer queens it's the fact that our association is going to lose a great amount of $$. the average guy that just has a bullydog or edge is now going to have to run a blanket and air shutoff?? otherwise he doesn't get to pull. to me that's just plain stupid.

Around here, they have a smoke rule, at the discretion of the promoter. Seems to work decent, allows everybody in that area a chance.

I think they need to tech hitch quality. I've seen guys pull up with a piece of rebar welded into a loop.. guess how far it made it.. just pass pulling the slack out of the chain.

Around here, they have a smoke rule, at the discretion of the promoter. Seems to work decent, allows everybody in that area a chance.

I think they need to tech hitch quality. I've seen guys pull up with a piece of rebar welded into a loop.. guess how far it made it.. just pass pulling the slack out of the chain.


I've seen places where they have a smoke rule, IMHO it does two things.

1. Local guys can smoke like Hell and not get DQed, outsiders get flagged in a heartbeat.

2. Encourages use of NOS and more creative places to hide it.

I sympathize with the guys running no serious mods competiting with high HP trucks, but when prize money is given, it will draw the hotter trucks in. If you've spent almost no money, how can you expect to place high? I have two suggestions for you.
1. Please continue to pull. It's a great sport with great people, everyone you talk to nicely will talk to you, give you advice and help, because everyone started out once.
2. Find pulls where your truck is competitive. I know in some parts of the country, that can be tough, but around here it's no problem.

1. Please continue to pull. It's a great sport with great people, everyone you talk to nicely will talk to you, give you advice and help, because everyone started out once.
2. Find pulls where your truck is competitive. I know in some parts of the country, that can be tough, but around here it's no problem.
Good advice there :)

I feel your pain. This past year I came in second to a twin turboed, modified VP44, two stage water injected, fire-ringed, huge injectored Cummins as we only had 1 diesel class.

We just had our first "club" meeting for next year (keep in mind this club was founded by gas/alchohol folks with both 2 and 4wd classes) and starting a new class was not taken too well. Most members felt it would be a financial drain on our club as starting a new class requires more help and more money for payouts. Yes members pay a membership fee and a hook fee, but that alone does not cover the payouts. Our club has been a non-profit organization with very little income and an even smaller bank account balance.

I came up with the idea of starting a "super street"/"pro street" (whatever you want to call it) class that will be privately sponsored (i.e. outside of the club). If it does well and puts butts in the seats, then the club will adopt the class the following year. We will be responsible for payouts as well as track help during that class. Unfortunately diesels are not as big in the Northeast as they are out West, but hopefully that is changing.

The other issue is number of classes and breakdown of each class. On the extremes you could have one class of diesel where a stock 6.4L Ford has to run against a P-pumped Cummins or you could have 40 classes where each truck and it's individual characteristics force it to be it's own class. The one class is easier and cheaper and thats why alot of clubs/promotors do it.

Yes it would be nice to have 3 or 4 classes, but financially and logistically it can be a nightmare. Right now it "looks" like it going to be a stock turbo and stock high pressure fuel pump (no dual fuelers) class which will allow intakes, exhausts, programmers, rear blocks, but won't allow injectables (propane, nitrous, water, or meth), front hanging weight, or modified hitches (ie. factory hitch in the factory location must be used). If you have a modified turbo or twins you are in the super/pro street class (stock 1 ton chassis required with DOT tires...no tubed frame pulling tire rigs) with all the safety equipment (blankets/bellhousings, air shutoffs, u-joint sheilds, fire extinquishers, etc).

The problem is, it's a big jump from one to the other but unfortunately it's all we can do logistically from a club standpoint. If we get fans in the seats for the diesels, our club may be more willing to expand (which is my hopes).

Even a stock turbo class is biased toward certain makes/models and you won't have a stock turbo 7.3 that will stand a chance against an LBZ, but it's as good as we can get. We will allow swaps within the same brand (i.e. you can put a newer 5.9L Cummins turbo on an older Cummins if you can make it work) that way if you got stuck with a "bad year" for your make, you aren't totally screwed.

The main concern with this class is affordability and that is why we aren't doing inducer size restrictions as it lends itself to turbo swaps (not usually very cheap). You won't need a modded motor, modded tranny, high dollar safety equipment, specialty items, etc. to pull and do decent. Most guys who are going to pull already have the intake, programmer, exhaust, and tires anyways. I know "Mall Cruisers" that have no intention of pulling or doing any real work with their trucks that have those item. Beyond that you need a hitch (which everyone pulling does) and optional (but recommended) blocks, bars, and lift pump. My bars were a couple hundred bucks, but my blocks were dirt cheap (under $50 to have them made by someone else) and lift pumps vary depending on how creative you get.

If you want to jump up, then it's time to break out the pocket book but even then since it's still 1-ton frame and DOT tire, so it's not entirely insane (motor, tranny, and safety equipment). And for some, they already have their trannies beefed before jumping up to this level so that helps the cost.

Beyond that would be a class for tube chassied pulling tire rigs, but we don't have much around us (although it would be nice).

Bogger, as for your rules I was wondering why they don't allow blocking in the "street" class? The reason I say this is:
1.) They are cheap
2.) They are easiest way to level the playing field (and/or stop cheaters)
3.) When done right with bars (and inspected/passed by the tech/safety inspector), they help get rid of hop which is MUCH safer for truck and spectators (safety 1st).

Some trucks come through with MUCH heavier leaf spring packs and that is a huge advantage. The first thing people did when they decided to (when no blocks were allowed) was find a couple of sets of spring packs and make their own (i.e. super STIFF 14 leafs) and that was a huge advantage. Others found the cost of buying springs and center bolts, new u-bolts, etc pretty darn expensive to try and keep up, so that is when they instituted the block/traction bar rule (and it definitely kept cost down and safety up).



Yesterday we had our end of the year rule change meeting, and it didn't turn out too well. Basically they want 2 classes. Diesel Street which means 100% stock with no blocking. The 2nd class is Pro Stock Diesel which is basically any truck that has even the smallest modification which will include trucks running twins, dual cp3's, p pumps etc. I know it sounds completley stupid, but the worst part is any truck running in this class has to have a transmission blanket, air shutoff and axle shields. A lot of us run our trucks everyday and pull and don't want to have to run those items. I'm even considering not even pulling anymore, but before I go to that extreme I have some questions.
1. Where do I get those items and not have it cost a lot of $$$
2. Can I run a tranny blanket on the street without it overheating
3. Where do I start with rigging up an air shutoff
Thanks guys for listening to me ramble and any help that you can provide me with. Chad

1. Please continue to pull. It's a great sport with great people, everyone you talk to nicely will talk to you, give you advice and help, because everyone started out once.

Great advice as always!


2. Find pulls where your truck is competitive. I know in some parts of the country, that can be tough, but around here it's no problem.

Consider the source :rolleyes::eek:, your truck is competitive almost anywhere :D;)!

J/K, I know what you meant, just thought I'ld raz you a little!

I feel your pain. This past year I came in second to a twin turboed, modified VP44, two stage water injected, fire-ringed, huge injectored Cummins as we only had 1 diesel class.


Sometimes, when you look back over the year, the "close to" pulls mean more than victorys. :) We have been "close to" some really hot Dodge's and big turbo, dual fueller Duramax'es. HELL, ONE NIGHT WE BEAT COOPER!!!!

coarse he whipped us about a dozen other times.:mad: :rolleyes::D

Bogger, as for your rules I was wondering why they don't allow blocking in the "street" class? The reason I say this is:
1.) They are cheap
2.) They are easiest way to level the playing field (and/or stop cheaters)
3.) When done right with bars (and inspected/passed by the tech/safety inspector), they help get rid of hop which is MUCH safer for truck and spectators (safety 1st).

Some trucks come through with MUCH heavier leaf spring packs and that is a huge advantage. The first thing people did when they decided to (when no blocks were allowed) was find a couple of sets of spring packs and make their own (i.e. super STIFF 14 leafs) and that was a huge advantage. Others found the cost of buying springs and center bolts, new u-bolts, etc pretty darn expensive to try and keep up, so that is when they instituted the block/traction bar rule (and it definitely kept cost down and safety up).[/quote]
That is one of the first things we brought up is better springs. They don't care. Like you our organization's higher up's is comprised of superstock and modified owners. They think the 1/2 ton, 3/4 ton, and Diesel classes should all be just the way you bought them. In my opinion and most fans opinion that is just plain boring. People like power and competion.

This is no good. I really enjoy watching the Diesel pulling class here in Maine but I never jived very well with MR. Humphrey. he is really trying to throw his weight around which is completely unfair. what he is going to end up with is a bunch of guys that will cheat in the Stock class and a few that will spend the money in the Pro stock class. He has too many personal vendettas which are coming into play here. I had planned on making a few hooks next year in a few of the pulls but not now. Chad, I will be more than wiling to help you with your truck and setup anytime you like just give me a call anything to help out someone at a disadvantage because of a personal vendetta.

HELL, ONE NIGHT WE BEAT COOPER!!!!

'course he whipped us about a dozen other times.:mad: :rolleyes::D


Well, ya cain't win 'em all. Actually you've got me at least twice... '06 Butler Fair, '07 Meadville. Both times I managed to get it in "spin mode". :rolleyes:

However, winning enough of the right ones is good for summing points :D



Bogger, I know all that safety stuff is a PITA, but the big positives out of it is a) you're safer; and b) it lets you pull just about anywhere with any of the larger organizations.

Bogger, I know all that safety stuff is a PITA, but the big positives out of it is a) you're safer; and b) it lets you pull just about anywhere with any of the larger organizations.[/quote]

Yeah I understand Mat it's just too bad that a guy with a damn exhaust system or cold air intake has to strap all this safety sh*t on now. At a few pulls this year we got 20 or so hooks which is awesome for us. Now that # will be about 5 or 6.

This is no good. I really enjoy watching the Diesel pulling class here in Maine but I never jived very well with MR. Humphrey. he is really trying to throw his weight around which is completely unfair. what he is going to end up with is a bunch of guys that will cheat in the Stock class and a few that will spend the money in the Pro stock class. He has too many personal vendettas which are coming into play here. I had planned on making a few hooks next year in a few of the pulls but not now. Chad, I will be more than wiling to help you with your truck and setup anytime you like just give me a call anything to help out someone at a disadvantage because of a personal vendetta.

Justin basically this was Carl Watson's way of being able to be on top again. He couldn't stand the fact that his 1000hp p pump fueled Cummings was getting spanked by 480-515 hp dmax's. He forgot to realize that his electronic controlled fuel system didn't come with a mechanical p pump tisk tisk Carl. I'm gonna leave mine at the same power level and hopefully still go out and hand him his azz. Either way a meeting needs to take place before next year otherwise our club is going to lose bigtime $$$$

the rules for the iowa, wisconsin guys suck me and my buddys go out to try and show to show each other up well even a small brush pull anymore has trailer queens. but I may have did alot of stuff wrong but I don't hang weights or clamp yet I guess next year will be like some kind of new age ass kicking I hope. MONEY IS MADE TO BE BLOWN!! Any suggestions for me next year on anything would be great. Thanks Guys

There are guys pushing the stock class and turbo beyond safe. We are one of those. What do we do about it?

We beat Eric Merchant and Jeff Toman. So I guess that proves that the stock guys stand a chance against the big dogs.

We also got kicked out of the stock class during that same pull. Prior to us pulling, we were teched and told to run in the stock class. Go figure. Then after we got kick out of the stock class, we ended up placing 2nd in the mod class behind a dodge name one bad apple I think.

Go figure. We have nothing but an air intake, exhaust, M/A tranny, E Locker, Spool in back, otherwise not even guages except EFI on my computer. BTW we have kinked/twisted BOTH of the stock back driveshafts on a CCLB.

I don't see what the problem is...... what happens if a tranny breaks? Our driveshafts didn't damage any of the rest of the truck, or anyone else. I like the idea of an air shutoff though.

The street diesel is the exact way it came from the lot. As long as it doesn't smoke they said their won't be any problems. Well I'm sorry but you can make a tune to not smoke at all. So basically that class is screwed as well.


Bogger,

I dont remember if you were at fryeburg or not but they pulled to the Maine Pullers rules, and there was only 1 diesel class, that everyone was lumped into and yes, i was at the local hardware store buying chain and bolts just so i could pull. The days of going to pull the sled with your stock truck and coming to an end i think cause I know for sure that its a pain in the ass to have to comply with the rules set out for the 1000hp nitrous fired pulling truck that cant even drive on the road!

[quote=Leadfoot;2151249]I feel your pain. This past year I came in second to a twin turboed, modified VP44, two stage water injected, fire-ringed, huge injectored Cummins as we only had 1 diesel class.

holey sh-- and i came with in a foot of him for second at greenfield wow i.m hoping for the new rule. :D

holey sh-- and i came with in a foot of him for second at greenfield wow i.m hoping for the new rule. :D

Dude, your truck was insane. I was not looking and all of a sudden I heard your truck coming down the track and turned around immediately. Needless to say I was very impressed. With a little more setup, you would have had him.

Todd is dismantling his truck as it was not very streetable and a few weeks after that he cracked his manual tranny in two. He is looking into building a Super Stock Diesel now.

We just had a rules meeting on Saturday and it looks like we are going to have a 2.5" native inducer single high pressure fuel pump class (we will be plug checking turbo inducers), and then a Super Stock run whatcha brung class (but tons of safety equipment required). I'm hoping to have the rules up on the website shortly.

Unfortunately there is going to be some people caught in the middle, but unfortunately we cannot financially afford another class unless someone is willing to get private sponsorship. As of now the Super Stock Diesel class is being funded externally to the club (they are seeking out their own payout funding, but hopefully that will change next year).

What turbo are you running and do you have dual CP3's? That will be the biggest criteria for which class you will be in.

You should come to our meetings and give us your input.

Once again, you have an awesome looking/running truck.
Chris

sorry for the off topic :o:

this is off topic leadfoot, but i was thinking about maybe going back into the gasser 3/4 ton class next year with an old chev. my question is how in the heck do you get your's to not hop? every old straight axle chevy i've had hopped on me. what are you running for tires, air psi, lift, blocks, anything chaining down the front? thanks and if you don't want to reveal in the public forum please pm me, Chad

this is off topic leadfoot, but i was thinking about maybe going back into the gasser 3/4 ton class next year with an old chev. my question is how in the heck do you get your's to not hop? every old straight axle chevy i've had hopped on me. what are you running for tires, air psi, lift, blocks, anything chaining down the front? thanks and if you don't want to reveal in the public forum please pm me, Chad

Well, since you were the thread originator, I guess it's OK to bring it off topic :cool:.

I don't mind sharing as anyone can take a look at my truck and see what it is/has (well except for tire PSI):

As for my setup, I ditched the solid blocks I had as I would bounce like a jack rabbit with them in (didn't matter what PSI I ran), but the only traction bars I had were mounted above the axle where the rancho kicker shocks mount (I would remove the shocks and put in solid bar). I don't think that was good enough to keep the axle from rotating and causing hop. I am going to try and build a nice long set of traction bars (similar to what some of the guys are running on their diesels) and see if that helps with the blocks (if not I will ditch them again). The shorter the wheelbase, the easier it is to hop, and I also feel that alot of hop comes from the front end. Myself as well as others generally only have 1 or 2 leafs in the front pack with adjustable shocks. This allows it to cycle but not "spring".
If the blocks/bars fail to work, I will buy a set of custom HD rear springs to keep from losing hitch height.

I run 33's because of my gearing.
I run an auto and have trouble getting the R's up. I have a TH400 with a first gear of 2.48:1, an NP205 with a low range of 1.96:1, and 4.56:1 ring and pinions for a total reduction of 22:1. The guys running GM manuals have a 2nd gear (which they pull with) ratio of 3.58:1, an NP205 with a low range of 1.96:1, and 4.10:1 ring and pinions for a total reduction of 28.8:1. There is a Ford that runs a manual with 3.55 gears but his 2nd gear and aluminum t-case gives him a total reduction of 29:1.

I could run an NP208 with a 2.61:1 gear reduction for a total of 29.5:1 with my 4.56's, but I don't want to have to redo the driveline and I like the cast iron strength.
I am going the route of swapping out the planetaries in the transmission with ones that have a 3:1 first gear for a total reduction of 26.8:1 which will work well with an automatic that doesn't have a lockup converter. That should allow me to gain an additional 1000-1500 rpms which should make it a dominating truck. It wasn't until this year that I realized how handicapped the older 3 speed automatic equipped trucks were for truck pulling (the newer overdrive automatics use a much lower first gear).
I used to run a 700r4/np205 combo behind my small block with 4.56's and with the 700's 3.06:1 first gear it was almost perfect but it started to give up the ghost when I started running the big block and that was before I had it "built".
With the new gearing, I will probably need a set of 35's for loose tracks but I am going to try the 33's and see where the R's are (my rev limiter is set at 7500).

It's easier to run a manual and you can do it with the more common 4.10 axle ratio, but if I were to build an automatic again, I would probably go the route of using a TH400, 208 t-case, so I could use the more common 4.10 gear ratio for a reduction of 26.5:1.

With a manual I would shoot for 28-29:1 reduction and with an automatic I would shoot for 26-27:1 reduction.

FWIW

If I missed something, let me know

OH, tire PSI (Generally 30 in the rear and 14 on the driver's side front and 15 on the passenger's side front). The biggest clue is look at the footprint of the tires at the end of the run.....

hey thanks a lot. i used to have a 350 manual with 4.10's and had plenty of r's but always wound up hopping which kills ground speed when you have to let out of it so many times. atleast with a big block you have the torque. what brand of 33 are you using? also what's your hitch height and weight of the truck? thanks, Chad

hey thanks a lot. i used to have a 350 manual with 4.10's and had plenty of r's but always wound up hopping which kills ground speed when you have to let out of it so many times. atleast with a big block you have the torque. what brand of 33 are you using? also what's your hitch height and weight of the truck? thanks, Chad

Discover AT's (Metric equivalent to a 33x12.5) for most tracks with a set of 33x14.5 boggers (in the rear) for loose or wet tracks. Our hitches are at 26" (whereas I believe yours are much shorter), and we were running 6200 lbs but have decided to increase it to 6800 this year to allow some of the newer trucks to pull. We had a few new crew cab gassers and V10's that were removing bumpers, tailgate, spare tires, spare battery, back seats, carpets, and running almost on empty to get down to 6200 (and most could only get down to ~6500 even with all that work).

The gas puller numbers have been dwindling due to A.) the popularity of diesels B.) the fact that newer gas trucks couldn't make the 6200 lbs weight limit, so we have decided to try a little heavier weight and see how it goes. (we may be allowing safe "hiding" of weight for old regular cabs as they will have a wheelbase disadvantage as well as dis-proporsion of front axle weight).

We picked 6800 so that a new truck puller could come in "stock" without having to pull off a brand new tailgate, bumper, etc. just to pull.

What turbo are you running and do you have dual CP3's? That will be the biggest criteria for which class you will be in.

lead foot i have the stock turbo and stock cp'3 and what's in my sig i was real suprized at how well it pulled. and that was my 4'th pull ever. thanx for the complaments on my truck your truck is a puller it is a nice sleeper it suprized me that's for shure when is the next meeting?

lead foot i have the stock turbo and stock cp'3 and what's in my sig i was real suprized at how well it pulled. and that was my 4'th pull ever. thanx for the complaments on my truck your truck is a puller it is a nice sleeper it suprized me that's for shure when is the next meeting?

next meeting will be a Saturday in January in Northampton.

I will be calling a few guys tonight and when we figure out the date, I will post it on the website www.matpa.org (http://www.matpa.org).

yeah our gasser 3/4 ton class is 7000 lbs and 24 inch hitch

thank's i'll try to go.

yeah our gasser 3/4 ton class is 7000 lbs and 24 inch hitch


When your schedule comes out, let me know as I would like to try it at least once. I can definitely find more weight and my hitch is adjustable down to 23 so that should not be an issue.

our rules are being changed this year as well but not as dramatic. matpa sent us a copy of their proposed rule change and i guess i can't pull with matpa because of there hitch rule and i'm putting on an a5k that is bigger than 2.5 " i find myself in that position of the middle. with the modified hitch and water injection it bumps me out of a lower class. even if i keep the stock turbo.

our rules are being changed this year as well but not as dramatic. matpa sent us a copy of their proposed rule change and i guess i can't pull with matpa because of there hitch rule and i'm putting on an a5k that is bigger than 2.5 " i find myself in that position of the middle. with the modified hitch and water injection it bumps me out of a lower class. even if i keep the stock turbo.

If you kept the stock turbo, why would you be out? You could disconnect the water/meth line (30 seconds with a plug) and you could always borrow a hitch (mine for example). Mine as well as most others are adjustable (due to different tires, block requirements, etc). What hitch height are you currently running? 26" seems to be the norm except for Maine.

The rules state the water/meth equipment needs to be removed, but as long as it's deemed inoperable you will be allowed to pull. We do require that the nitrous bottle(s) be removed for Insurance purposes though.

Here is the rules I received for SNETPA
8500 LB Diesel, Gas & Duallies 4WD Class

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

1. Vehicle must be factory 4 wheel drive.

2. Vehicle must be registered and carry a current state inspection sticker if so required by the state in which the vehicle is registered.

3. Vhicle must have D.O.T. approved tires with atread width of 12.5". Tread design must be standard or mud and snow tread design conventionally used on pick up trucks. Paddle tires, bar tires, tractor tires, forklift tires, slicks, etc. are not allowed in this division.

4. Blocks may be used on rear end if removable. No welded or spooled front or rear differentials.

5. Vehicle must have a 2" reciever hitch no further out than 12" from the chassis or in flush to stock chassis and no alterations to the body for the hitch. Reciever hitch to be made of solid material with a maximum hitch height of 26"
6. All added weight must be secured and no further foward than the front of the pick up bed. Upper snow plow frames & winches are considered add-on equipment and will not be allowed. Push bars and bumpers will be at the judges' discretion.

7. Single and twin turbos on diesel engines are allowed as long as they are factory installed. NO NOS, WATER METHANE, OR PROPANE ALLOWED.
8. Kill switches are NOT required in this class.

9. All general rules will apply.

10. Decisions of the tech committee and judges are FINAL.

Again, if you have any questions please feel free to post and I will get them answered for you. Thanks again.

If you would like a rule book, please contact Kevin Sousa @ 774-930-7891
If you are planning on attending any of these events I recommend getting the rule book for the general rules that apply to all classes.

Basically the same set of rules we have (although we allow turbos up to 2.5 and our weight is 8000 lbs.)
Unless you guys were not teched well, the same restrictions we have are the same restrictions you have???

When your schedule comes out, let me know as I would like to try it at least once. I can definitely find more weight and my hitch is adjustable down to 23 so that should not be an issue.
Yeah I will let you know for sure. The best showing for you would be in Skowhegan because that's basically the best pull of the year.

Bogger: Depending on our pull schedule I will try to make that one

xcablb7: I realize now you weren't talking of hitch height, but rather hitch placement and/or modifications. As long as you are not using a "drawbar" you could probably sneak in as nobody has ever looked at my hitch (although it is a factory hitch in the stock location). I won't tell......:D

I was talking about the mass truck pullers rules. Kevin is a very good friend of mine i see him everyday so i get the heads up on our rule changes and i went to the meeting and proposed some of the changes for our club but the matpa rules state you must use the factory hitch in the factory location. mine is one i fabbed and hid behind the license plate. Also your rules said all injection equipment (n2o-h2o) must be completely removed. and there should be something in this years rules about 52 " total tread width, and water meth allowed. did you pull in hebron conn. ?

I was talking about the mass truck pullers rules. Kevin is a very good friend of mine i see him everyday so i get the heads up on our rule changes and i went to the meeting and proposed some of the changes for our club but the matpa rules state you must use the factory hitch in the factory location. mine is one i fabbed and hid behind the license plate. Also your rules said all injection equipment (n2o-h2o) must be completely removed. and there should be something in this years rules about 52 " total tread width, and water meth allowed. did you pull in hebron conn. ?

No, I did not make it to Hebron (I believe I was at another pull), but I did hear that there were quite a few diesels there.

Basically as long as there is no NO2 bottle (insurance reasons and to discourage "accidental" ;) usage) in the truck and the water/meth line(s) are disconnected from the intake tract (again to discourage accidental usage) then you should be fine with that. As long as your homemade hitch is not severely slid far forward in the frame you should be OK as well. The only rule they won't budge on is that the hitch point must be the furthest point rearward of the truck (including bumper or stock bumper location on a truck that has it removed). There are OEM hitches and aftermarket hitches and we require they bolt in the stock location. A homemade hitch is not necessarily illegal, and does not have to use the stock OEM holes, but if it's attached way ahead of the OEM holes than there will most likely be an issue. We do require that it be a receiver style with removable hitch. I've seen some guys move hitches for one pull and change it back for another. Is that a possibility on yours?

We discussed having a tread width rule (total contact patch) but have proven that in a non-hanging weight class, having a dually is an advantage. A SRW truck with 13 inch wide tires (52 total) has more power transfer than a DRW truck with 8.66 wide tires (52 total) as the rear has 34.66 total tire width in the rear vs. 26 for a SRW. With most of the weight pulling down on the rear (and no hanging weight in the front), the dually even with Pizza cutters for tires, 95% of the time have the advantage (given the same power).

We have one guy that is running a dually this year and he is borrowing a regular set of tires to pull with and I hear some of the new Dodges are running a "super single" on a cab/chassis rear axle.....

I have been tasked coordinating the club and coming up with the rules for street legal gas and diesel and enforcing them. We do not have anything 100% set in stone until March so lobbying can still be done....

Our next meeting is in Northampton MA. at JB Auto the second saturday of January at 6pm. Please attend if you are interested. If you could bring the truck to show the club your hitch would also be a good idea as they could visually see it and make an informed judgement. Anyone interested in learning more or discussing can reach me at (413) 427-5269.

Also, I noticed that SNETPA do not allow the injectables. Do they make you remove them, not tech them, or just take your word that you do not use them? Just wondering what other local clubs are doing on this subject.

Thanks,
Chris

the snetpa rule book was modified after initial printing and water meth is allowed. but n20 bottles must be removed. my hitch is 4x4 box tubing that runs across the back of the truck in side the frame rails with 1/2 " plates on the ends bolted to the frame so it can't be moved. this moved the ring in 8 1/2 " from the stock location. i'm pretty sure i'm gonna put the a5k on pretty soon so that is gonna put me out.