I was just about to order a crossbed box for my new 2004 when I passed this truck on the road. It was a extended cab GMC 3/4 ton shortbed 4x4. It was the newer (aka 00-up, because it had 4 doors) bodystyle. Not sure what year it was...I know they supposedly reinforced the bed in 2002 or so.

The guy pulled into a business and I pulled in with him. I asked him about his truck and he said that they also had another truck that was doing the same thing. He said that he didn't really have the toolbox loaded heavy or anything.


This is kinda scary...I am thinking about an inbed now.

Du am!

His BIG mistake was not moving the toolbox far enuf forward so that some of the weight was carried by the front end of the bed.
That's sad :(
Should make the installer buy him a new bed for that ****** up

There used to be a kit that you had to get in order to reinforce the bed corners. It wasn't automatically done.

His BIG mistake was not moving the toolbox far enuf forward so that some of the weight was carried by the front end of the bed.
That's sad :(
Should make the installer buy him a new bed for that ****** up


The toolbox was pushed up against the front of the bed. it couldn't go any further forward.

that is what i was thinking. i've seen it. the dealer sells it and calls it some kind of a reinforcement kit for a toolbox...



There used to be a kit that you had to get in order to reinforce the bed corners. It wasn't automatically done.

Info - Availability of Pickup Box Reinforcement Kits for Toolbox/Rear Window Barrier/Ladder Rack Applications #01-08-66-005B - (Aug 21, 2002)

</TABLE>Availability of Pickup Box Reinforcement Kits for Toolbox/Rear Window Barrier/Ladder Rack Applications

1999-2003 Chevrolet Silverado Pickups (New Body Style)

1999-2003 GMC Sierra Pickups (New Body Style)

with Steel Fleetside Pickup Box (RPO E63)

Except Dual Rear Wheel (RPO R05), Stepside (RPO E62) and Inner Composite (RPO E37) Pickup Boxes

Sales Manager and Service Manager

This bulletin is being revised to add the 2003 model year and VIN Breakpoint information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-08-66-005A (Section 08 -- Body and Accessories).

Built Prior to the following VIN Breakpoints:

<TABLE width="100%" border=1><TBODY><TR><TH vAlign=bottom align=middle>Plant

</TH><TH vAlign=bottom align=middle>VIN Breakpoint

</TH></TR><TR><TD vAlign=center align=middle>Fort Wayne, IN

</TD><TD vAlign=center align=middle>3Z115302

</TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=center align=middle>Flint, MI

</TD><TD vAlign=center align=middle>3F102974

</TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=center align=middle>Pontiac, MI

</TD><TD vAlign=center align=middle>3E115871

</TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=center align=middle>Oshawa, ONT

</TD><TD vAlign=center align=middle>31108937

</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

Pickup box reinforcement kits are available as an accessory for customers who may want to install a cross toolbox, side box, or a ladder rack system.

Important: The reinforcements must be installed before adding a toolbox or ladder rack system. After the reinforcements have been installed, follow the instructions supplied with the toolbox/ladder rack system for installation onto the pickup box.



Pickup Box Reinforcement Installation

Use the following service procedure and the applicable kit part number listed below to install the reinforcements.


Cross Toolbox and Rear Window Barrier Applications - Front Reinforcement Installation


http://service.gm.com/engif/000/000/772/772923.gif
http://service.gm.com/tif.gif (http://service.gm.com/servlets/RetrieveTif?pic=772923)
Important: The horizontal surfaces of the reinforcements must be flush to the horizontal surface of the pickup box top rail. Use a clamping tool when positioning the reinforcements onto the top rail to ensure flushness to the outer panel.


<LI type=1>Place the front L-shaped reinforcements into position on the front top of the pickup box. For vehicles equipped with an over the rail bedliner, the bedliner should be removed with the aid of an assistant prior to installing these reinforcements. <LI type=1>Mark the holes necessary for drilling. <LI type=1>Remove the front reinforcements. Important: Use a block of wood and/or a drill stop in order to protect the back of the cab while drilling.


<LI type=1>Drill two 13.5 mm (0.54 in) holes per side into the box section of the front panel. <LI type=1>Drill 7.5 mm (0.30 in) holes into the weld flange of the side outer panel. <LI type=1>Apply anti-corrosion material to the drilled holes as necessary using the information found in the applicable Service Manual and GM Refinish Material Booklet 4901M-D-2002 (English) or 4901M-D-F2002 (French). <LI type=1>Place the front reinforcements back onto the box, lining up the drilled holes. <LI type=1>Install the large shoulder (M8) bolts into the reinforcement and front panel (total of 4) and the small (M6) bolts into the reinforcement and side outer panel (total of 6) with the nuts.


Tighten <TABLE border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top> • </TD><TD vAlign=top>Tighten the M8 bolts to 25 N·m (18 lb ft). </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
<TABLE border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top> • </TD><TD vAlign=top>Tighten the M6 bolts to 9 N·m (79 lb in). </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
<LI type=1>Remove all metal shavings from the pickup box after installation.
Install the bedliner if equipped with the aid of an assistant. The bedliner may need to be trimmed in order to obtain the necessary clearance for the reinforcements.

Ladder Rack and/or Side ToolBox Applications - Reinforcement Kit Installation

<LI type=1>Install the LH and RH front L-shaped reinforcements using the procedure above. <LI type=1>Remove the LH and RH rear taillamp assemblies. This is necessary to gain access to install the rearmost bolt of the rear reinforcement.
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http://service.gm.com/tif.gif (http://service.gm.com/servlets/RetrieveTif?pic=772934)
<LI type=1>Place the LH and RH rear reinforcements into position on the pickup box. <LI type=1>Mark the holes necessary for drilling and remove the reinforcements. <LI type=1>Drill 7.5 mm (0.30 in) holes into the weld flange of the side outer panel. <LI type=1>Apply anti-corrosion material to the drilled holes as necessary. Refer to step 6 under Front Reinforcement Installation procedure. <LI type=1>Place the rear reinforcements back onto the pickup box. <LI type=1>Install the M6 bolts through the reinforcement and side panel with the nuts.
Tighten
Tighten the bolts to 9 N·m (79 lb in).

<LI type=1>Install the LH and RH rear taillamp assemblies.
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http://service.gm.com/tif.gif (http://service.gm.com/servlets/RetrieveTif?pic=772928)
<LI type=1>Place the LH and RH center reinforcement into position on the pickup box. <TABLE border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top> • </TD><TD vAlign=top>On the 2.4 m (8 ft) long pickup box models, this center reinforcement fits over the existing center stake hole. </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
<TABLE border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top> • </TD><TD vAlign=top>On the 2 m (6.5 ft) short box models, these center reinforcements are recommended to be installed. The reinforcements should be centered between the front and rear reinforcements on the pickup box. </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
<LI type=1>Mark the holes necessary for drilling and remove the brackets. <LI type=1>Drill 7.5 mm (0.30 in) holes into the weld flange of the side outer panel. <LI type=1>Touch-up the drilled holes as necessary. Refer to step 6 under the Front Reinforcement Installation procedure. <LI type=1>Place the center reinforcements back onto the pickup box. <LI type=1>Install the M6 bolts through the reinforcement and side panel with the nuts.
Tighten
Tighten the bolts to 9 N·m (79 lb in).

Remove any metal shavings from the pickup box after installation.

*Maximum Equipment Weight Capacities (Equipment and Cargo)



<TABLE border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top> • </TD><TD vAlign=top>Ladder Rack and Cargo - 364 kg (800 lb) </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
<TABLE border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top> • </TD><TD vAlign=top>Cross Toolbox and Cargo - 182 kg (400 lb) </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
<TABLE border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top> • </TD><TD vAlign=top>Side Tool boxes and Cargo - 159 kg (350 lb) (per side) </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
*The combined weight for all rail-mounted equipment should not exceed 545 kg (1, 200 lb).

<A href="http://service.gm.com/servlets/BlobShtml?ShtmlFile=918821&psdid=271&evc=sm#ss1-918821">Parts Information

<TABLE border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top> • </TD><TD vAlign=top>P/N 15068208 contains the reinforcements necessary to install ladder rack systems and/or side-mounted toolboxes. </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
<TABLE border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top> • </TD><TD vAlign=top>P/N 15068209 contains the reinforcements for cross toolbox and/or rear window barrier applications only. </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
<TABLE width="100%" border=1><TBODY><TR><TH vAlign=bottom align=middle>Part Number

</TH><TH vAlign=bottom align=middle>Description

</TH></TR><TR><TD vAlign=center align=middle>15068208

</TD><TD vAlign=center align=middle>Reinforcement Kit - Pickup Box Otr S/PNL

Includes Frt, Ctr, and Rr S/PNL Reinforcements (LH and RH) w/Bolts and Nuts

</TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=center align=middle>15068209

</TD><TD vAlign=center align=middle>Reinforcement Kit - Pickup Box Otr S/PNL

Includes Frt S/PNL Reinforcements (LH and RH) w/Bolts and Nuts

</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

Parts are currently available from GMSPO.



<TABLE width="100%"><TBODY><TR><TD align=left width=778>GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.
</TD><TD align=middle width=42>http://service.gm.com/engif/000/999/999/999999994.gif </TD><TD align=middle width=167>WE SUPPORT VOLUNTARY TECHNICIAN CERTIFICATION
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

Yeah, I know the reinforcement kit exists. I hate having to drill a bunch of holes in my truck bed just so I can mount a toolbox, though....

Interesting info, though, thanks. I was especially interested in the max weight limits on the bed rails.

I've got a Slide Systems http://www.slidesystems.com/ rolling box in my bed. It uses a set of aluminum rail caps that lock down into the pockets (no drilling) that provide the tracks for the boxes that roll forward and backward in the bed and are locked into position by ball-lock pins. I also have the optional heavy duty front rail support and it mounts my bed cap. Not cheap, but very cool!

Yeah, I know the reinforcement kit exists. I hate having to drill a bunch of holes in my truck bed just so I can mount a toolbox, though....

Interesting info, though, thanks. I was especially interested in the max weight limits on the bed rails. I didn't drill, I just laid them on the bedrails, and let the J bolts from the box hold them in place. I too, didn't want to drill into a $40k truck. So far so good.

If the tool box wouldn't slide any farther forward to sit on top of the front of the bed then maybe it was the wrong box for the truck. I have had a few trucks with tool boxes and they ALL sat on the forward section of the bed.
My box has been on and filled to capicity since day 2 and no problems with crack's

I didn't drill, I just laid them on the bedrails, and let the J bolts from the box hold them in place. I too, didn't want to drill into a $40k truck. So far so good.

I thought about building some 1/4" angle iron bed rails that would cover the entire side and front of the bed, welded together in a "C" fashion and bolted to the bed through the stakebed holes. Then weld some threaded rod to the top of the angle and bolt my crossbox to that. I don't see why that would be any different than what you are doing....

If the tool box wouldn't slide any farther forward to sit on top of the front of the bed then maybe it was the wrong box for the truck. I have had a few trucks with tool boxes and they ALL sat on the forward section of the bed.
My box has been on and filled to capicity since day 2 and no problems with crack's

How would this box slide any further forward? This box is flat on the front....:confused:

That's what I'm saying, if it wouldn't go any farther forward then maybe it was the wrong box for his truck. My tool box has a little shelf (lip) that sticks out on top of the front of the bed. The front edge of the tool box has to sit on the front rail of the bed or your asking for trouble, which is what he got.

My .02

That's what I'm saying, if it wouldn't go any farther forward then maybe it was the wrong box for his truck. My tool box has a little shelf (lip) that sticks out on top of the front of the bed. The front edge of the tool box has to sit on the front rail of the bed or your asking for trouble, which is what he got.

My .02
That box is the Rawson Koenig says they make to fit our trucks. It does not have a lip on the front. No R/K boxes have a lip on the front, not even the aluminum ones.

The lip on the front is more of a characteristic of aluminum boxes that of toolboxes that are "made to fit our trucks."

In my experience, the majority of crossbed toolboxes mounted in trucks do not sit on the front rail. Many boxes do not have that lip. But even with the ones that do, most of the time you can't put one that far forward because the lid will hit the rear of the cab. Trucks with ladder racks or headache racks can't have the box sitting on the front of the bed.

Now, I agree with you that I bet the way you mounted yours does help, though.

Just to make sure, this is a steal bed correct? It looks like it might have some rust on the cracks. But just putting the question out there.
Any idea how much weight the tool box and the gear inside was? Living in a part of the country that does not get all that cold, sounds like there is more to the story than we are getting.

COULDNT IMAGINE LETTING THAT GO THAT FAR WITHOUT TRYING TO FIX/STOP THE PROBLEM:eek: I WOULDNT DO THAT EVEN TO A F@%D OR WORSE YET A GOAT):h HE MUST NOT HAVE OWNED THE TRUCK OR HAS MORE $$$ THAN HE KNOWS WHAT TO DO W/ IT-:t

Just to make sure, this is a steal bed correct? It looks like it might have some rust on the cracks. But just putting the question out there.
Any idea how much weight the tool box and the gear inside was? Living in a part of the country that does not get all that cold, sounds like there is more to the story than we are getting.

Yeah, it was a steel bed, and that is some rust on the bed. Dude said that he kept the box basically empty. With your statement about the cold, are you thinking that the cold weather had something to do with it? I don't think the bed "cracked" suddenly because of cold weather. I think that the bed started to tear at the top and the guy never fooled with fixing it, so the tear ran down the side of the bed.






COULDNT IMAGINE LETTING THAT GO THAT FAR WITHOUT TRYING TO FIX/STOP THE PROBLEM:eek: I WOULDNT DO THAT EVEN TO A F@%D OR WORSE YET A GOAT):h HE MUST NOT HAVE OWNED THE TRUCK OR HAS MORE $$$ THAN HE KNOWS WHAT TO DO W/ IT-:t
Yeah me neither. I spoke with him for a second and he didn't seem to really care. He said it was a company truck. I'd still get it fixed even if it wasn't "my" truck.

I kept my alluminum box on my '83 full of gear for plowing. two sets of chains, tool box full of tools to fix anything, tire iron, box of nuts and bolts for future use on the road and liquids. More than twice the weight of an empty metal box. I never had an issue with cracking or sagging for that matter.
Just looking at it closser the cracks are at the corners. That is the strongest part of the bed. Like I said earlier there seems to be more to the story then he told. If it is a work truck maybe more than one person uses it and they may have abused it like dropping tools in the box hard or slamming up against the back of the bed which would try to pull it apart, but you would think you would see some signs of bending on the back porting.
I would post another question with a vote on how many use the bracing and see by experience if this is an issue or an isolated case. More than likely just isolated.

Eh, I don't agree with ya. I've seen 3 trucks with this problem. The only difference was that this guy didn't care and let it get a lot worse. It has to be a fairly common problem, not an isolated case, otherwise GM would not have developed a reinforcement kit.

Comparing your 83 to this truck is comparing apples to oranges. Your 83 has a WHOLE lot thicker metal than your 2002 (I have an 84 myself). Plus you said your box was aluminum, weighed probably 50lbs empty. The box in this guy's truck was a steel RKI box, which according to RKI weighs 178lbs EMPTY. The weight of that box in combination with the much thinner sheetmetal caused this, no problem...



I looked the truck over. It was a company truck, but overall it was not too beat. Looked like an engineer's truck. It had stock type (245 AT) tires on it, and the bed was pretty much empty. The only thing that might have contributed to this problem was some driving over rough terrain.

Now I will agree with you that this is probably an isolated case, but notbecause there was "more to the story than he told." I bet that 95% of the trucks out there will not have this problem, because 95% of the trucks out their either have some sort of bedrail caps, have a lot lighter duty toolbox, spend all their time on road, or some combination of the above.

I had this same problem on my 2001. My ranch hand toolbox is at least a a few hundred pounds. After hitting a few bumps, it came back down and cracked my bed. So I got some 2" square aluminum and made a rack that sits underneith my toolbox, and bolts right to it, and supports all of the weight. The toolbox does not touch my truck at all. I had it powder coated, so it looks great. I built it where it only took up an extra 2" in the front of the bed, so I can still slide a ladder or whatever else underneith the toolbox with no problem. Solved my problem, and wasn't that expensive, especially if you weld it yourself.

Ok Duckhunter if you want to add extra material and holes to your truck than go for it. I am going to say that this has never happened before, just that out of all of the trucks that I have seen or delt with in this case I have never seen it.
Up here I have never seen these cracks on a truck that has tool boxes. Now I will say most of them are alluminum, but this is a fairly common add on to the trucks up here.
Our work trucks (although Fords) have had these boxes (steel and alluminum) and they have had their fair share of abuse, more than I want to mention, and I have never seen this on them, new or old styles.
This is true about the older style GM trucks being built a little better, but not that much thicker, and the alluminum boxes weigh between 75 and 100 pounds on average and with the tools in mine and the bottom sagging from it I again never had a problem.
I have also seen many ladder racks mounted in the same location that were holding lots of wood or sticks of metal that probably weighed about the same as the steel box full of tools, and no cracks. These ladder racks also use less of a foot print than the toolboxes unless used with the bed rails, but I am talking about the ones that don't.

Ive never seen an in bed tool box to that to any brand or model of truck bed, from what I can see of the shots you took, and if I'm wrong someone jump in here, that tool box is either not for that truck bed, or it was poorly designed, and the reason I'm saying that is, if you look at the second picture you can plainly see that the tool box is not designed so it can rest on the front rail, which is where it should be, because of the added support it would have from resting on it.

All the boxes that I have seen only mount on the sides and not the front part. That is not to say that there is not ones out there that do.
It would be nice if they to have one that did rest on the three sides for the additional support and the extra two inches of room in the bed it would give you.

Ok Duckhunter if you want to add extra material and holes to your truck than go for it.
No, akdiesel, I agree with you. I certainly don't want to add a bunch of holes to my truck, and I do think that this is an isolated case, but I think that the reason it is doing this is because of the heavy toolbox. I've seen 3 trucks do this, and two of them had RKI boxes in them. I'm not saying these boxes are poorly built, I am saying they are probably TOO well built. Their toolboxes are heavy, and they do not flex with the bed. I spoke with RKI and they recommended using the reinforcement kit and also mounting the toolbox with only one bolt on each side to allow the bed to "flex" under the box.

I have also seen many heavily loaded aluminum boxes in our trucks with no problems (in fact I had one in my 2000 silverado for a while, with only diamondplate bedcaps under it and I had no problems).

All the boxes that I have seen only mount on the sides and not the front part. That is not to say that there is not ones out there that do.
It would be nice if they to have one that did rest on the three sides for the additional support and the extra two inches of room in the bed it would give you.
Yeah, I agree with you akdiesel. Some aluminum boxes do have a "lip" around the entire box, but I don't think their intention is to have that lip resting on the front of the bed. I think it is their to add strength to the box and to form a place for a sliding tray to ride on. I've never seen any installation instructions that called for mounting the box over the front bulkhead.

I believe the reason they don't make them go over the front bed rail is because the ones that have the one lid that opens towards the cab will not clear the cab when opened, it would hit the window. And to make one that opened like eropean cabinets in your kitchen would take more engineering and cost more. This might also take away from allowing full opening access.

Just on a side note If you do put one of these boxes on your I recomend installing an under hood light. I put one on my box and when I lift the lid the light comes on and it makes a big difference in the dark to find items in there. This should be somthing they offer on these boxes.

Yeah I've put a light (with a switch) in my last two toolboxes. It makes a world of difference.

I took an underhood light off of my brother's totaled truck the other day so I might try that on this next box.

Here is my solution to the problem.

i have a single lid, "normal" depth RKI box & I love it! I fabbed out some bed rails put them under the box for extra support.

I made them out of 2X3" angle iron & put some tie down loops from Tractor Supply on it. I have about $50.00 in the whole set up including paint & it works great!

I first saw this problem when a buddy of mine has had issues with his last two trucks (1999 & 2001 models) denting on the bed rails with the same tool box (both GM trucks). It looks like this is a weak spot, so I "fixed" the problem before it started.

Currently, my box is a full width single lid steel RKI. With these rails installed the weight of the box doesn't matter. My box prob weights about 250 - 300 lbs. min at all times (includes 2 ea 3/8ths heavy chains - 25 ft long, full set of combination & socket wrenches - 3/8ths - 1 1/2" dia, portable Hyd jack,etc., etc . .

The two side rails are welded to the front cross piece & I welded a length of 1" square tubing accross the rails behind the tool box for extra support & box protection. This makes the side rails a 1 piece unit. The box has 1ea 1/4" bolt on each side inside the box & the rails have 1ea 1/4" carrage bolt (for the smooth head) visible on each side.

I have had no problems yet & I travel some REALLY rough roads on diffent ranches during the year. No rail/box movement at all :ro)

Here are some pix:

Aggie91,
That looks good. Tackled two problems at once. The toolbox weight and the tie downs. It looks like it follows the body lines very well.
Now the only problem you have is getting that drop in out to clean under neath it. But that is a whole other post.

Yup, it knew the drop in would be somewhat of a pain to clean, but if I park on a good slope & lift the center of the drop in up high, I can wash underneath it pretty well.

I like the drop in because I can *** slide*** 4x4, crossties & other heavy stuff into the bed w/out having to crawl into the bed to move it. However, I am looking into getting a gooseneck hitch, so I will probably have to have a spray in installed.

PDS

Aggie,

That is pretty much exactly the way I did it in my 1995, except I also have a RKI headache rack and I used angle for the crossbrace.

How thick is the angle iron? It looks thinner than 1/4" in the pics.

no, it is 1/4" 2X3 angle

Cool. I used some 3" by either 4" or 6" on my 1995. Heavy stuff.

So far, I have not had any problems with mine either. I have had some people question my choice to only use 2 bolts per side, but with the way it is welded as a 1 piece unit & with the 1" sq tubing x-member support, I have never had any movement/bending/warping issues.

The D-ring tiedowns are rated at 1K lbs, and I think that if I need to haul anything heavier than that, I will use a trailer instead of the bed of the truck!

And, of course I always use a little "engineering overkill" on the design phase, so with the way it is set up, the side rail unit will probably rip the bed off of the truck before it bends! (And I think that, by default, makes the rails strong enough! :D

PDS

We have had a lot of trucks get the bed cracked in the front. My 93 and dad's 95 both did it. The 93 was cracked when I bought it used with 70k on it. On my 2000 I used diamond tread bed caps and didn't have any problems after that. First thing we put on our new trucks was diamond tread bed caps before we put the toolboxs on. And yes we drilled through the rail to put them on. Those j-bolts slip when you have a lot of wieght in the box and bounce around the farm. Besides we don't plan to remove the boxs as long as we own the trucks anyway. Both are loaded really full of tools and bolts and parts. Especially dad's. I have dropped big tractor wheels and tires on those bed rails with the caps on and not dented them. Anyone that has been around an 18.4-38 wheel and tire can tell you they are pretty heavy.
I have never seen a toolbox that goes over the front rail around here. The ones that sit on the side rail work fine as long as you have something under it for the wieght.

So far, I have not had any problems with mine either. I have had some people question my choice to only use 2 bolts per side, but with the way it is welded as a 1 piece unit & with the 1" sq tubing x-member support, I have never had any movement/bending/warping issues.

The D-ring tiedowns are rated at 1K lbs, and I think that if I need to haul anything heavier than that, I will use a trailer instead of the bed of the truck!

And, of course I always use a little "engineering overkill" on the design phase, so with the way it is set up, the side rail unit will probably rip the bed off of the truck before it bends! (And I think that, by default, makes the rails strong enough! :D

PDS

Aggie,

I also plan on putting a brace across the back to protect the toolbox, (I have my hi-lift jack mounted to it in my 1995). I also have like 10,000lbs tie downs mounted to it....slight overkill. :) I have thought too that you could drop my truck from a helicopter using the D-shackles (a la Hummer) if the bed would stay attached to the frame....



As far as your two bolts per side, I would think that would be plenty. I have thought of trying to mount my rails through the holes in the bottom of the stake pockets. It will be more trouble but it would keep me from having to drill holes in the bed. My only concern is front to rear movement because of the "slack" caused by the open stake pocket. What are your thoughts on this?

Oh yeah, out of curiousity, how many miles do you have on your truck?

I looked at trying to tie things down thru the stake slots on the bed also, but like you I was concerned with movement of the rails -vs- the bed. I think that could be a fairly big concern over time. Plus getting everything aligned & tight/secure would be a PITA compared to the 2 bolts per side.

Murphy is my very good friend, so if there is a way to mess the alignment up, I would find it . . right after the last coat of paint when I was doing the final bolt on . . . . :rolleyes:
And . . . I got to thinking about the detailed work involved in fabbing those attachments for rails to bed AND setting up something to attach the toolbox to the rails. . . . . -:t

I do NOT trust the little "J" hooks supplied w/the box & setting up something that I could trust to hold this heavy box on bumpy ranch roads as well as hold the rails down . . . Gee, 4 bolts thru the tool box & rails sure seemed easier.

Also, I have never had tool box / rail bolt hole rust problems on any truck that I have had, so other than feeling smug about the fact that I did not have ***any*** bolt holes in the bed, this sure seemed like as lot of work to me.

BTW, the truck is 1 1/2 yrs old & 53K miles . . . .just rolling on down the road!

My plan is to drill some holes in the angle rails that would be directly in the center of the stake pocket hole. Then I am going to take some long carriage head bolts and drop them through the stake pocket and through the "drain hole" in the bottom of the stake pocket. Then just climb under the truck and put on your nuts and washers. Then just weld a threaded rod in the middle on each side of the rail and bolt the toolbox to the rails using that.

We have had a lot of trucks get the bed cracked in the front. My 93 and dad's 95 both did it. The 93 was cracked when I bought it used with 70k on it.
Were these GM trucks? Where did they crack?

All Chevy 1/2 ton trucks. Not that the bed would be any heavier if they were 3/4 ton. Dad's 2000 also did it before we put the bed caps on it. They crack right at the front corner of the stake hole forward to the corner where the outside part curls around the inside sheet metal. I welded them and ground them smooth and primed it and put the bed caps over it. They didn't crack straight down like the pictures of that truck. We just started putting bed caps on all our trucks and never had problems since.

Ripped in towards the bed, not towards the front of the truck, right?

I believe the truck in the pictures started just as you described, but they never fixed it so it got worse.

It started on the outside and went in towards the bed but hit the stake hole so it stopped there. If I hadn't welded it I'm sure it would have kept stressing around the stake pocket and probably went down just like on that picture. It's simple to avoid by putting bed caps on it. I like the bed caps for everything else anyway, when I slide a shovel in the back or drag a chain out over the side it just slides over them.

Mine cracked at the front and at both back corners Censored


http://pstr-d01.ygpweb.aol.com/data3/003/6A/9F/E6/BB/mE6JOTkdHEpSiclN5UaAoEnINrrkXH7v0180.jpg

http://pstr-d02.ygpweb.aol.com/data3/00B/72/E5/9A/DA/+bdM99+oZGnar+e6tEzoobmErSA-e4BZ0180.jpg

My buddies cracked down the sides like the truck on the first page.

I just made supports that hold the headache rack up like legs on a table with plates that bolt on to the floor of the bed. AFTER I bought a new bed.


David

edit : It also squeaked so bad it almost drove me insane.

It started on the outside and went in towards the bed but hit the stake hole so it stopped there. If I hadn't welded it I'm sure it would have kept stressing around the stake pocket and probably went down just like on that picture. It's simple to avoid by putting bed caps on it. I like the bed caps for everything else anyway, when I slide a shovel in the back or drag a chain out over the side it just slides over them.
Yeah, I agree. I would not have a truck without some sort of bed rail protection. Plus with the fabbed up steel ones they are handy for mounting a Hi-lift jack, a hitch pin holder, etc, etc....

Mine cracked at the front and at both back corners Censored


http://pstr-d01.ygpweb.aol.com/data3/003/6A/9F/E6/BB/mE6JOTkdHEpSiclN5UaAoEnINrrkXH7v0180.jpg

http://pstr-d02.ygpweb.aol.com/data3/00B/72/E5/9A/DA/+bdM99+oZGnar+e6tEzoobmErSA-e4BZ0180.jpg

My buddies cracked down the sides like the truck on the first page.

I just made supports that hold the headache rack up like legs on a table with plates that bolt on to the floor of the bed. AFTER I bought a new bed.


David

edit : It also squeaked so bad it almost drove me insane.

What bodystyle truck is that?

2000 1500 GMC Sierra short bed. Its red cause my little bro was messing with spray paint.

David