There is an upside-down "F" connection under my "tuna can" that connects by hose clamps to the two pipes that run on either side of the intake manifold opening.

Sorry for no pics. :) Based on the description, can anyone help me with this rubber splitter? It's cracked and leaking oil, and I am also wondering if the crankcase ventilation system is now being compromised and affecting performance/efficiency. Thanks.

I've searched everywhere and I can't find one either. Personally, I'm thinking of manufacturing something out of copper pipe fittings and radiator hose.:o:

Yeah, I'll probably just do a short rubber hose out of the tuna can, then have a hard (copper plumbing) T fitting and a 90deg rubber bend...probably be cheaper than the original GM fitting. :)

I don't remember exactly, but the outlet side of the CDR is 1" diameter and the inlets on the manifold are 3/4". I tried to get some radiator hose & hose adapter from NAPA, but it was too large and too stiff of hose to bend it around in that short space.
Let us know what you come up with!

alright, people...my search has failed. I'd love to know if someone has a GM service manual that can locate the part. I've checked LMC Truck and I didn't find any fittings... maybe an industrial or marine application of the 6.2?

14050446

Alright...here's how I just screwed myself...

Where this piece resided (from the tuna can to the two lines running into either side of the intake manifold) I thought I would be smart and put cut-off fingers from latex gloves onto each of the exposed fittings.

I drove to Advanced Auto (friggin' closed at 7:15pm even though the website said 8pm) and when I came back I noticed that I left a trail of oil from the house to the parts store and back to the house again. On top of that, the latex finger cap under the tuna can popped like a balloon, and under the truck there were two trails from either side of the bellhousing and dripping oil at a steady rate. As of this writing, the truck left a solid pool of oil under it and the dipstick reads almost no oil.

While now I realized that the CDR/PCV system is apparently flowing a HUGE amount of pressure, I cannot believe that I blew some sort of a seal (rear main seal?) that there is no oil left in the truck. FYI...DO NOT CAP OFF THE SYSTEM. Please learn from my mistake!

I'm going to refill the crankcase and see if it continues to pump out oil in the rear of the engine/front of the transmission.

My guess would be that you blew the valve cover gaskets. Probably not the rear main. Fix the CDR and it will slow way down but won't stop until you fix them. At least that is what happened to mine when I tried to get away with just 1 CDR line instead of the 2 and an open element air cleaner. Not enough restriction in the air intake to let the CDR do it's job.

14050446

I was quoted by my local Chevy dealer (Bob Taylor Chevrolet) at $22.14 special order. Is there any online GM parts supplier that I can order this through with a more reputable background? I have to drive to the dealer, place the order, and drive back to pick up...quite frankly, I'd pay a few bucks more to have them ship it to my door...

Schnap!!! 14050446 is discontinued...

Off to eBay I go... :(

Clay, I likely have the rubber piece you need on one of two spare 6.2 out in the shop. I can see the tuna can still mounted on top of one of them, so the lines are probably still underneath. I'll have to move some stuff to get at it tomorrow(Wednesday) evening. I'll snap a pic. If it's what you need, it's yours. I can send it down to you, or you can come pick it up if you're in the neighborhood.

Tony, I'll stop by today. What's your number or address?

Clay, you have a PM

Yep, definitely don't want to block off the CDR. Builds up pressure in the crankcase and can blow out seals.

The purpose of the CDR system is to create a slight vacuum in the crankcase, relieving pressure from blowby gasses and keeping the seals intact. ;)

Oh crap I'm posting this too late. I'd meant to find this thread and update my previous reply. I managed to fix my "F" boot. I scratched my head trying to come up with a way of re plumbing the system with copper pipe but I found a better solution.

What I did is I cleaned the rubber off inside and out first with mineral spirits then with rubbing alcohol (mineral spirits gets things clean but leaves residue, alcohol removes the residue). Then I smeared blue RTV silicone all over the outside of the boot. Then I smooshed fiber drywall tape into the silicone followed by more silicone. basically I've got the entire boot wrapped in fiber tape suspended in RTV blue. It seems to be holding two weeks later. I'll try to post a pic tomorrow.

I thought about dipping the part in latex, like the handles for your tools...I like the RTV silicone.

HOWEVER, my friend YACHTCARE gave me an almost perfectly good "F" boot today, and I can't believe my good fortune. He is a king among kings. Thanks, Tony!!! :) :) :)

Unfortunately, I'm still going to need to find the seal I blew that's dripping oil now...

Youre welcome Clay, happy to help.

Did you clean the CDR before re install? IIRC the book recommends a cleaning every 30-50K miles. First time I cleaned mine after a year or so of driving I noticed a difference in the way it ran, and alot of the oil weeping around the valve covers went away.

I didn't get back home until after 10pm last night, so the F-boot is just sitting on my kitchen island. I have not thought about cleaning the tuna can. Seems like an easy enough job. Anything to watch out for, like don't turn the CDR upside-down? (my first lesson in rebuilding carburetors)

I'll inspect it and, if necessary, spray the bejesus out of it with brake cleaner...unless otherwise specified from someone on this board! :)

Nothing really... Just flush it with solvent and let it dry.

Inside those CDR valves is a diaphram.Carb cleaner or any other type of harsh liquid could damage the diaphram.Your probably better off using some lestoil or pine-sol and flush it out with running water.

Kerosene or diesel fuel should be fine as well. ;)

Cleanser in the bottom tube, or the side tube? Does the flow matter when cleaning out the can?

Kerosene or diesel fuel should be fine as well. ;)

That's how I cleaned mine. Poured some diesel in there and covered the holes with my hands and shook like crazy. Dump it out and do it again until the diesel comes out clean.

I soak mine in that purple degreaser stuff you get at the hardware or auto parts store for about 20 minutes. Then flush with water in both directions til the water runs nice and clear. Follow up with a quick spritz(both directions) of brake or carb cleaner to displace the water. Done. Good for another 30K.