Who is using the kitty eliminator pipes and whos making em? California trucks that you all have setting any codes? My EGT's are tremendous, i want to try this and see if it may help. I know this is like beating a deader horse, just having trouble finding the right info and the right way of doing it:ro) Thanks guys for the info!!!

You have quite a few options here....You can find a down pipe off of an LB7 motor that didn't have a converter.....Also, dynomax makes a new downpipe as well....They don't say it fits the lly motor, but it fits just fine....and no modifications necessary...bolts right up....It sounds like the california trucks do trip codes with the converter removed, but if you're just testing your theory, that might not be such a big deal anyway

Cally trucks will throw codes but the finger stick will fix that look up egr defeat circut by Fingers a very smart member on this foram.

My California Truck did not throw codes with the cat removed. I used the Dynomax pipe.

http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10100&highlight=dynomax

Thanks for the info guys. I have a strait pipe( No Muffler) already, what kinda noise am i talking about here? I have also heard of others using an LB7 down pipe, might this fit a lilttle better then the Dynomax unit since it is stock?
How does the finger stick factor into everything? is it related with the Cat in any way ?

5thgear - the dynomax pipe goes in without much, if any trouble.....Actually, I would be willing to bet it would take the same amount of time to put the lb7 pipe in as it would to put the dynomax pipe in..

I run an LB7 head pipe, It works perfect, fit perfect, and looks stock. As for the finger stick, with the truck straight piped there are some codes that will show up. I beleve 1 is insufishant EGR flow because there is not enough back pressure for it to work properly. The finger stick was invented because people wanted to block off the EGR with a plate so no exaust gasses would be reserculated into the motor. The finger stick fools the computer into thinking the EGR is still working there for eliminating codes.

right on with the info... do u think im going to notice a problem with zero back pressure on the LLY? does the "Finger" have to be removed once installed, is it locatable by sight ? I like the idea of LB7 pipe, just cause its factory and may not be as noticable to the untrained eye.. Is that pipe the same diameter pipe as the dynomax? Sorry for all the short ?? thanks all!!!):h

I'm not sure if you'll get the "turbo bark" or not. I don't have my edge yet. It should be showing up soon and I guess I'll find out. Of course I only plan on using level 1 and 2 until I get ready to upgrade the tranny.

I've got the MBRP turbo back system and I love it. It threw the SEL light on at first but it didn't stay on long. I unplugged the EGR later. That activated the SEL light and it stays on. I got a code reader after I did the EGR. I know I don't get codes when I plug the EGR back in and clear the codes. The dealer I have my truck at right now hasn't said a word. I plugged the EGR back in and cleared the codes before I dropped it off.

right on with the info... do u think im going to notice a problem with zero back pressure on the LLY? does the "Finger" have to be removed once installed, is it locatable by sight ? I like the idea of LB7 pipe, just cause its factory and may not be as noticable to the untrained eye.. Is that pipe the same diameter pipe as the dynomax? Sorry for all the short ?? thanks all!!!):h

The Dynomax pipe is bigger, but it is pointless. It starts small (stock size) goes to 4", then back down to 3.5" (stock). They should have just left it 3.5".

Stick is small enough to fit inside the Harness Sheath.

I need a stick and a plate, I know Fingers you get bombarded by people. I have done my HW, but am havn trouble findin a most current post regarding ur stixxs and plates? I understand if i dont hear from you on it. I ll keep lookin. Thanks for the prior info though:ro)

You guys are calling the Dynomax front pipe the down pipe. This is not accurate. The downpipe is the pipe that comes off the rear of the turbo and connects to the exhaust. I don't know of any aftermarket "downpipes" yet. I think that the downpipe actually bolts to the rear of the turbo housing on both the LB7 and LLY turbos.

As for codes, I get codes on my LB7 when Edge is on 3+ towing and I'm on the gas pretty hard. Otherwise no codes. I have straight pipe from the downpipe back with no CAT on my CA truck...

I need a stick and a plate, I know Fingers you get bombarded by people. I have done my HW, but am havn trouble findin a most current post regarding ur stixxs and plates? I understand if i dont hear from you on it. I ll keep lookin. Thanks for the prior info though:ro)
Could you keep me posted on what Fingers lets you know or what you find out, I myself keep find the bit and pieces but not the final answer.
Thank you,

Andy

As soon as I have a full understading, i ll pass on the info! Its snowin on my screen !:ro)

I have a stock downpipe. If you want it pm me. It may still be at the shop.

03 lb7 Cali truck, removed cat, 4" frt pipe with 4" banks (with muff). No codes here.

Probably will get them next week with the egr mod and muff delete. Nothing that cant be fixed.

I'd like some info. on the stick and plate. Thanks.

The Finger Stick thread is http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18029 and the first post has the ordering info. I am not selling plates. Another member is. His thread is http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18944

Thanks a lot for the follow up. appreciate it!!!!!