Hey guys I am in the market for a new truck. I really like the duramax,especially lifted. But I have heard extremely negative stuff about lifted chevys. I am considering getting a ford because the solid axle. I am going to be putting a 6 inch lift with 35s on whatever one I get. So what do you guys think about the durability of a lifted duramax. I will never 4 wheel it just street driving. I will need to keep it for over 100k miles. Do you think it will hold up after this many miles. Also what is the best 6 inch lift for the 2500hd . Thanks I really appreciate any feed back.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Approve.gif

I don't believe there are any durability problems with lifting a GM as long as you use a quality lift that addresses all the issues. I personally lifted a 1500 Chevy back in '92. It rode like a stock vehicle and held alignment with no problems. Todays lifts are even better.

The diffeence between a GM lift and a straight axle lift is cost and complexity... not durability.

I have a 4" Rancho lift on my truck. I had it put on the first month that I had it. At the time, there really weren't many options for lifting the 2500HD. Fabtech and Procomp didn't have their lifts out (but I have seen a few lately and they look like they are made just as well) yet. All three are probably good choices.


I take the truck off-road quite a bit and I have never had any problems with it. I have over 20,000 miles on it now. Rancho is a well known name and they build a very solid product. I am very happy with the lift on my truck. The truck rides even better than it did stock due to the upgraded shocks (the factory shocks leave a lot to be desired).


As far as lasting 100k miles, I couldn't tell you. I probably won't have the truck that long, but the way the kit is built and installed, I really don't see having problems with it ever.


Anyway, I am very happy with the lift. It makes the truck look a lot better, and it's fun with the girls http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cool.gif

Thanks for the info so far. Your rancho 4 inch sounds like a nice kit but I would do the 6. I noticed you were also from utah. Do you know of any one good to do lifts in utah, I have no clue where to take it for the lift once I get it. Thanks

Ripper I'm not sure what part of Utah you live in but there is a suspension company in Jordan. I can't remember their name off hand but their kit is similar to Rancho in that it is a 4-6" lift depending on how much you crank your torsion bars. Keep in mind the more you crank the worse your CV angles get. If your truck will see mostly pavement thats even more incentive to purchase a Duramax. Hoot was right on when he said, "cost and complexity... not durability." If you are looking for the best 6" kit on the market check out CST(California Super Trucks).

Click here
http://performancelifts.com/images/items/CSS-C3-6.jpg (http://performancelifts.com/cgi-bin/cart/CSS-C3-6.html)

Most lifts will outlast the lifespan of the truck itself and you should not have any durability issues. The older kits(88-98) had some alignment and quality issues that have given IFS lifts a bad rep but those issues have been corrected on most of the newer kits. As with all lifted trucks there is added stress to the steering components, eventually you will need to replace the pitman/idler arms and maybe the tie-rods but you will have similar concerns with a lifted SFA truck.

For anyone interested aftermarket gears are available for the 11.5" 14-bolt in the following size:
4.10
4.56
4.88
5.13
5.38Edited by: y2kboti

y2kboti, Its good to see what gears are finally out there for the rear.....but what about the front diff? I thought 4.88 is the highest out there? Also, anothing over a 4.56, the ABS is gone.

I live in riverton. How about the rcd kit is it comparible to the cst. Also what is the price difference between the two. Thanks

y2kboti, Its good to see what gears are finally out there for the rear.....but what about the front diff? I thought 4.88 is the highest out there? Also, anothing over a 4.56, the ABS is gone.
Depends on ½ ton or ¾ ton. For ¾ ton trucks front gears for the 9.25” IFS are available as low as 5.13 and 5.38. Supposedly the Predator programmer will recalibrate for gears that low but I have yet to see it work. I had issues with the Predator on my ½ ton, ABS/E-brake lights were on and the speedo was off by almost 10mph. Hypertech worked better for me but I also have a ½ ton not a HD…yet! I’ve seen ABS still work with 4.56s but anything lower and people seem to have problems.

I live in riverton. How about the rcd kit is it comparible to the cst. Also what is the price difference between the two. Thanks
I’m in SoCal so I don’t know where Riverton is in relationship to Jordan but you may want to look into it. IMO the CST lift is the best lift on the market(of course that is a subject that can be debated forever) but also comes with a higher price tag. If you would like more details on the lift email me (y2kboti@yahoo.com).Edited by: y2kboti

Browsing the CST site, I was looking through their photo gallery... While the trucks look better with a lift, I think this puppy looks even worse...


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/ZE6_avalanche_2.jpg

y2kboti I tried to email you but my email is not letting me send it. I am really interested in the cst kit. Could you tell me what is better about it than the rcd and the price difference. Also do you know if there is a cst distributor in utah. Thanks I really appreciate it.

The first thing to know is the different types of lifts and the pros and cons of each.

The first type is a subframe/spindle lift(i.e. Rancho, RCD, Fabtech, Pro Comp stage I, Full Traction, Skyjacker, BDS and a few others). These lifts yeild 4-6" of lift depending on your torsion bar settings. The lower control arms(lca) are dropped 6" but the front differential is only lowered 4-5". The upper control arms(uca) are left alone and a replacement spindle(steering knuckle) with a longer stem is used. The steering linkage is not moved and the track width is widened.

The 2nd type of lift is what I call a true lift(CST, Superlift, Pro Comp stage II). These lifts lower both the upper and lower control arms 6" as well as the steering linkage and front differential.

Now the pros and cons of each:

subframe/spindle lift
Pros:
less expensive
no replacement driveshaft required
wider track width=more stability
less bracketry

Cons:
increased CV angles
have to crank torsion bars to get 6"
wider track width=wheels stick out to far
at full droop CVs can break if torsion bars are cranked to much

subframe/true lift
Pros:
full 6" lift minimum
factory like CV angles=less CV problems
factory track width

Cons:
more expensive
longer install time with more brackets

I know there are more pros/cons than I mentioned but that was the "Cliffs Notes" version http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif I don't want to put anyones lift down so instead of comparing CST vs. RCD I'll concentrait on why CST makes a great kit.

1. One-piece subframe, Rancho is the only other company to offer that.
2. All drop down brackets are tied into subframe, even the UCAs. Nobody else comes close!
3. Heim joint supported steering linkage
4. All brackets are gussetted for extra support
5. All parts powdercoated
6. Many options such as dual shocks, skid plates, rear leaf springs, etc.

The basic CST kit runs $1895 MSRP. Here is a shop in Utah that carries CST:

JACK-IT
1812 W. 3500 STE. 1
SALT LAKE CITY, UT 84119
(801) 974-7960

Better yet you can visit Performance Lifts.com (http://www.performancelifts.com), Jeff is an online retailer who is very familiar with CST products.Edited by: y2kboti

Thanks I raelly apreciate, One more question what is the advantage of buying the rear springs over just getting the blocks. What is the price differnece. Do you think the springs are worth the money. Thanks againhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gif

One more thing, I just read from a past forum you said there will be a sweet new lift coming out for the hd. What company is it any info? Thanks Edited by: ripper

Blocks are alot cheaper but anyone that has experienced axle wrap will tell you how much it sucks. The advantage to buying springs is it reduces and sometimes eliminates axle wrap, they look better and IMO ride better espically if you purchase a quality set of springs. Do I think springs are worth the extra money? Without a doubt!

I'm not sure where I posted that. If you can give me the link I'll check it out and let you know what I was talking about.Edited by: y2kboti

I'm interested in aftermarket gears ... I have the OEM locking differential rear end? and running 315 70R17's ... what are my options? How expensive would this be and do both front/rear have to be swapped? Would like to get back to the stock-like ratio.

4.10s or 4.56s would work best with your setup tophog. Do you fell like you need gears? Was the power loss that great going to 315s? What about your Edge Juice didn't that help? If you do replace the gears I would recommend swapping out the factory G80 with an aftermarket LSD or locker. The factory G80 has a tendency to "explode" with 4.56 or lower gears...this may or may not apply to the 11.5" 14-bolt but it sure applies to the 1/2 ton 10-bolts. Gears front and rear run anywhere from $1000-2000 depending on the shop. I paid close to $1400 for 4.56s front and rear on my 10-bolt with an Auburn LSD Pro.

Ripper


I went threw the same thing I ended up going with the 6" RCD I am very happy with it I did alot of research check out my old thread http://dieselplace.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=652&KW=rcd+lift I have heard good things about Rancho to but they say RCD shocks are better Bilsteins here is a pic of my ride hope this helps.


Shaydog


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/8Z9_gmc.jpg

4.10s or 4.56s would work best with your setup tophog. Do you fell like you need gears? Was the power loss that great going to 315s? What about your Edge Juice didn't that help? If you do replace the gears I would recommend swapping out the factory G80 with an aftermarket LSD or locker. The factory G80 has a tendency to "explode" with 4.56 or lower gears...this may or may not apply to the 11.5" 14-bolt but it sure applies to the 1/2 ton 10-bolts. Gears front and rear run anywhere from $1000-2000 depending on the shop. I paid close to $1400 for 4.56s front and rear on my 10-bolt with an Auburn LSD Pro.


Do I need gears? Probably not ... would I like lower gears? yes. The only negative aspect of my 4" Rancho lift and 35" tires is how the larger tires has modified the Allison shift points which cannot be altered via a tuner on any Duramax ...unlike the gassers. Since I tow quite a bit I do notice the difference when the allison now shifts later then normal. Sure, the juice helps alot but I don't like the fact the truck doesn't shift into 4th or OD until your doing about 55mph, etc.


BTW, very pleased with the 4" rancho and S/S Bilsteen setup ... truck rides car-like and I can still fit into garage (barely) which was my requirement when shopping/researching lifts.

Your truck looks sweet shady dog. What made you choose the rcd kit over the cst. Do your tires rub at all with your setup thanks.

I could use a little more rpm in 6th gear. Comparing 245/75/16 to 315/70/17 our 3.73 drops to an effective 3.30 and 4.10's would be like 3.64. For my use that would be about perfect...but considering the cost and the speedo calibration I'm budgeting for a Quad.

To be honest none of the shops out here offered CST and I heard nothing but good things about RCD also RCD is all black Rancho is red I dont like that. I checked out CST website it look like a good kit what I really like is the front tires dont stick out that is the one thing I dont like about my lift what I dont like is factory shocks the CST kit does not replace your shocks my Bilsteins are way better than stock way better ride. My tires did rub on the front airdam I had to trim it no big deal.


Shaydog

I could use a little more rpm in 6th gear. Comparing 245/75/16 to 315/70/17 our 3.73 drops to an effective 3.30 and 4.10's would be like 3.64. For my use that would be about perfect...but considering the cost and the speedo calibration I'm budgeting for a Quad.





The Quad will make your speedo correct but will do nothing regarding the transmission shift points on the allison. No Duramax tuner can change the way the allison shifts ... a real bummer.

The only negative aspect of my 4" Rancho lift and 35" tires is how the larger tires has modified the Allison shift points which cannot be altered via a tuner on any Duramax ...unlike the gassers.
I glad you mentioned it as this is a MAJOR concern of mine! The Allison transmission is awesome but the fact that you cannot manipulate it like you could the 4L60E or 4L80E makes me second guess lifting a HD. I talked with Clint from ATS at the SEMA show and asked him about problems with the Allison and larger tires, he said no problem at all in fact he recommended it. I’ve emailed tons of HD owners who have lifted their HD trucks and not a single problem but then I hear comments like this. It’s scary when you can lift a ½ ton and know you can correct the shift points on the transmission but have to worry about the shift points on a “HD” truck.



To be honest none of the shops out here offered CST and I heard nothing but good things about RCD…
shaydog24 many shop don’t know about CST and for obvious reasons. CST never advertised until a few months ago and even then it’s not often. Their product is pretty much word of mouth down here in SoCal, I’ve only run into a handful of people outside of CA that have their kits. RCD makes a quality product and the reason most shops sell their kits is 2 fold. One, their kits are less expensive than many of their competitors and cost is a big concern for the majority of customers. Two, RCD offers dealer incentives meaning the more RCD kits a shop sells the bigger the kick back.

I checked out CST website it look like a good kit what I really like is the front tires dont stick out that is the one thing I dont like about my lift what I dont like is factory shocks the CST kit does not replace your...
CST does not use the factory shocks. You can use Bilstein, Rancho or whatever shock you prefer. If you want to go further they offer a dual shock hoop and replacement dual shock upper control arm that comes with a larger MOOG ball joint(similar to the setup I have) and again you can run any shock you want including FOX or King reservoir shocks.

I would not call using the larger tires on my dmax a problem ...it's more of a personal issue. The duramax and allison get the truck down the road with no problem (with help of Juice) but would the truck tow better if the stock-like ratio was restored? Absolutely. I would like my truck to shift sooner ... not a big deal when not towing however when I've towed I usually get in that specific speed where the allison "should" shift down to a lower gear to retain speed and lower EGT's ... like it would if stock tires were on the truck. I've learned to compensate for all this ... it's just an annoyance of mine. :)

Okay with that said are your EGT noticably higher because the Allsion doesn't shift at the proper time? Also what type of trailer are you pulling and how much does it weight? Anyone else have similar issues with the shift points or anything else they don't like about the larger tires?

<DIV>My EGT's are reasonable ... with feathering the foot peddle and and shifting manually I can keep EGTs around 1200 (Juice level 2) without losing a ton of momentum but do have to back out of it or force a downshift to keep EGT's reasonable on long pulls. I pull a 25' toy hauler loaded with quads, etc. about 10K lbs I think, plus a quad in the back of the truck ... I weighed once and was around 18K lbs.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Here's the specifics of what I notice. When going up hill the allison stays in gear longer then it should before down shifting on it's own. This has the result of having EGT's get up there ... 1300+ easily ... and I have to either back out of the throttle or most of the time, back out temporarily to force a downshift to keep the EGT's low ... but a lot of momentum is lost with this method. I won't let my EGT's get above 1200 for very long ...like pulling a long grade vice a short hill. I also have been towing with Juice level 2 and think I will be dropping to level 1 in the future to see how that may improve EGT's.</DIV>

My shift points never changed after I added the 35's. Let out clutch, rev to 2000 rpm, depress clutch, select next gear, release clutch, repeat.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Approve.gif


Just had to give the majority of Dmax owners a hard time. One of the nice things about owning a stick.

so, does CST make the best 6" lift for the HD if price is no object?

I've been waiting for the OEM's to wear out before making a tire/rim decision. I really begrudge giving up any power though so am in a bit of a quandry as to how to proceed let alone all the decisions about tire size vs. torsion bars vs. lifts.


I must say, the Dodge with 20" rims really catches the eye. What's their gear ratio like?


What's the best size vs. performance ratio above the stock 245's? I'm guessing 285's...

so, does CST make the best 6" lift for the HD if price is no object?
IMO, absolutely!

What shocks seem to be the best to run with the cst 6 inch kit. Would the blistein 5150 be a good choice, what about the fox 2.0. Aslo what is the advantage of running 2 shocks over one. I just drive on the street so I think I would be fine with just 1 shock. Thanks

Alot of CST owners run FOX reservoir shocks but mostly for the looks. The advantage to running 2 shocks is you spread the load over 2 shocks instead of 1 thus reducing the temp. of the shock. Shocks tend to fade if they get to hot. You can use any shock/brand you want. Any Rancho or Bilstein will work for just street use.

I wish I were closer to most of you all... I'm running a 6 inch fabtech, 3 inch body, and 39X15X16 MT Baja belted tires.. Looks sweet, though I can't launch in 4X4 (best 60' is 1.9 in 2wd)... I'm ready to take it back down and throw a nice set of wheels on it and focus a little more on speed.. Anyone want some Stonecrusher's or MT wheels?? 39' Baja belted or 35' Buckshot tires?? =) I'm not sure what combination wheel and tire to go with once I go back down..

Does anyone have any experiance with the new kit from skyjacker. I like how you do not have to modify the front end. If you ever wanted to go back to stock with this kit you could. thanks

So far I like the CST kit!! Only had it on for a couple of weeks. Did the install myself and was very impressed with how well the kit went together.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/F24_My_Truck.jpg

This is a 6" RCD with 315 Nitto Terra Grapplers. The truck rides great, a little firmer probably because of the Bilsteins.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/986_P1010068.JPG

NVRENUF,


Nice truck!http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Thumbs Up.gif


How long did it take you to do the install? Do you have any pictures during the install. I'm asking because I'm looking at the CST for my 2004 Chevy CrewCab 4x4 LWB that is on special order. What size tires and wheels are you using?

It might have been asked above but here goes. Why would you have to worry about shift points w/ larger tires? If you swap the gears and obtain the same final drive ratio what's the difference? Why would the computer or transmission care? Another thing, if I have larger tires and I change the gears in the rearend to match the stock final drive ratio why would the G80 "explode"?

NVRENUF,


Nice truck!http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Thumbs Up.gif


How long did it take you to do the install? Do you have any pictures during the install. I'm asking because I'm looking at the CST for my 2004 Chevy CrewCab 4x4 LWB that is on special order. What size tires and wheels are you using?











It was a weekend project. Sorry, no pics during install, I was too worried about getting it done! The tires are 36x14.50R16 on a 16x10 rim.

NVRENUF,


Nice truck!http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Thumbs Up.gif


How long did it take you to do the install? Do you have any pictures during the install. I'm asking because I'm looking at the CST for my 2004 Chevy CrewCab 4x4 LWB that is on special order. What size tires and wheels are you using?











It was a weekend project. Sorry, no pics during install, I was too worried about getting it done! The tires are 36x14.50R16 on a 16x10 rim.


NVRENUF,


Couple more questions if you don't mind;


Did the install give you any problems or little hang ups along the way, how well were the instructions written?


Could you clear 37's? I like the idea of 36" tires, but I haven't found many for 17" rims.


Anyway cool truck! Thanks for the infohttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

[/QUOTE] NVRENUF,


Couple more questions if you don't mind;


Did the install give you any problems or little hang ups along the way, how well were the instructions written?


Could you clear 37's? I like the idea of 36" tires, but I haven't found many for 17" rims.


Anyway cool truck! Thanks for the infohttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif


[/QUOTE]


Sorry, I'm a little slow on the response. No major problems, I would recommend having a torsion bar tool though. The instructions were written very well, but written only, no pics. The only pics were of metal removal, mostly the bumpstops. 37's would probably be tight depending on width, but i agree about 36's being hard to find for any size rim. I've had two new sets of the PJ Dirt Grips and both of them were crap! This second time(Tuesday) I sent the tires and the rims back. Now she is sitting on the stock 245's. Talk about a sad sight!!http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cry.gif Can't find anything else I like in or close to that size. Don't care about noise or wear, I'd just like for them to be ROUND!!http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Ermm.gif

NVRENUF,I AGREE WITH YOU ON THE PJ'S MINE DIDN'T LAST LONG AND NEVER STAY BALANCED,I WAS LOOKING AT THE NITTO TERRA GRABBER BUT THEY ARE HARD TO FIND THEY COME IN A 365X65X16 (ABOUT 35.5X 14.50X16),A FRIEND OF MINE PUT SOME TRXUS STS RAD. 36X14.50X16 AND LIKES THEM ALOT,MIKE

Thanks for the heads up on the PJ's I was looking at them. I have BFG AT's on my 88 Toyota and like them. I just want a more aggressive looking tread and still keep the ride as quiet as possible.

Voodoo,THE PJ'S ARE NOT QUITE,WERE ARE YOU IN FL?

Firelt, do have any pics of the truck with the TRXUS STS RAD tires? Has he had them in the mud and if so how did they do?

Voodoo,THE PJ'S ARE NOT QUITE,WERE ARE YOU IN FL? Just north of Ft Lauderdale

BukWild,Firelt, do have any pics of the truck with the TRXUS STS RAD tires? Has he had them in the mud and if so how did they do? NO NOT YET HE'S ONLY HAVE THEM ABOUT THREE WEEKS

Voodoo ,I AM IN POMPANO

firelt,


I worked in Pompano for 9 years, what a small world. Who did your lift? Edited by: Voodoo

Voodoo, PRESTONS OFF COPANS ROAD NEAR I95