I got my first truck last month. Its a 2000 2wd C2500 4.10 with only 57,000 miles. It is all completely stock. Right now I get about 17 mpg when I keep my foot off it (and at $3.299 I do) but would like a bit better. Is there an intake and exhaust most recomend? or maybe a chip? Which would I see the most bang for the buck? I see others claim 19-21 mpg's. Can I achieve that?

Also I see allot of people having problems with there pmd's. Should I keep a spare in the truck?

Yes. Exhaust is definitely recommended. I upgraded to a Warpspeed 3" downpipe, 4" exhaust. You can go with either straight pipe or get a straight through muffler. There are a few brands you can go with. Use the search function at the top of the page. There are many threads on the topic.

Everyone seems to suggest Heath's PMD Isolator. It comes with a 7 year warranty, so it seems to be the best.

Having 4.10's will make it more difficult, as the "sweet spot" in the 6.5L is about 1800-2000 rpm. It is possible though, and I think exhaust will be your best bet to begin with!

I would say that a pmd relocater kit would get rid of almost all of your worries to do with the pmd. As for the exhaust that would be the best thing to do it will sound way better that stock and let your turbo spool faster and lower egt's, which helps when pulling. There is an intake on SS diesel supply(the only ones who sell them for a decent price besides afe).For chip you could go with a heath max e-tork pcm. But I would go with exhaust if I were you. Just shop around there are good deals everywhere on exhaust kits also I would try and find gauges(EGT,boost,trans temp) would help monitor your truck.

I wouldn't be highly concerned with intake right now. I believe the stock intake on a 99 was pretty good. Much better than the earlier flat panel ones. I would, however, remove the crappy snorkel located in the fender. Just my 0.02c ;)

Would one 4" exhaust work better than another? Anything to stay away from?

By the way, I think it's upped from 2¢ to 3¢. (inflation)

the only difference in exhausts are 1. Aluminized or stainless steel, get stainless if you can afford, i see you live in mich. salt will eat aluminized after a period of time, 2. Mandrel bent versus ordinary bending, mandrel will insure a true 3" or 4" diameter through the bends, a regular bent exhaust will "neck down" the diameter through the bends, and 3. price, stainless mandrel bent will be the most expensive, but depending on what you want, it may be worth it.

the only difference in exhausts are 1. Aluminized or stainless steel, get stainless if you can afford, i see you live in mich. salt will eat aluminized after a period of time, 2. Mandrel bent versus ordinary bending, mandrel will insure a true 3" or 4" diameter through the bends, a regular bent exhaust will "neck down" the diameter through the bends, and 3. price, stainless mandrel bent will be the most expensive, but depending on what you want, it may be worth it.

What is the stock exhaust that came with the truck?

I'll have to go into town and get some prices tommorow

Exhaust shops can't compare with vendors on the internet. I suggest Heath or SS Diesel for a stainless exhaust. It will be ALOT cheaper than buying it at a local business, I think.

What is the stock exhaust that came with the truck?

I'll have to go into town and get some prices tommorow

On YOUR truck a 200 6.5, it may be stainless, im not sure, but on the older truck the 92, it is probably aluminized, or just low grade steel. BUT the kicker is the downpipe on the 6.5, its the worst hacked up piece of crap i have ever seen on a pickup, that makes a huge improvement in spool up and egts, get rid of the downpipe and then you only have a 2.5-3" stock exhaust to get rid of.

If you want to save some $$$$ to spend on other goodies just take it to a muffler shop and have them cut out your cat and muffler and weld in a 3" pipe. I had mine done for $60. I noticed a big difference in sound, response and whine. I just need to do the down pipe and cross over next.

How fast do you drive? Do you drive mostly on side streets or freeway? That makes a big difference. Stay under 2000 RPM if you can.

I drive 55-58 which is about 16-1800 rpm.

Should this be all that I need for exhaust?
[TD edit link to non site vendor SS Diesel removedIf you want to save some $$$$ to spend on other goodies just take it to a muffler shop and have them cut out your cat and muffler and weld in a 3" pipe. I had mine done for $60. I noticed a big difference in sound, response and whine. I just need to do the down pipe and cross over next.

Can you do that if you want to transport commercialy?

Vendor linking policy is covered here http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=185680&page=3 post 22,

Sorry Doc. How about this, http://www.heathdiesel.com/P/HDP1540/
Would this be everything that I would need to convert to 4"? It says that you can't use a cat. If I decided to tow comercialy would I need one?

Could use a cat systen but it would have to be converted to be cat compatible currently those are "off road" systems, I've heard of some that are "cat like" with shell welded over the cat, and pipe thru middle, let your concience be your guide, my Banks was a cat back system, I don't know of anybody but them selling cat back for the 6.5

Commercial towing at whims of a weigh station inspection if it came with a cat, I'd make sure one was on mine, same thing with running red fuel,

they fine private individuals, I think violating emissions equipment laws on commercial vehicle some states I hear fine you, castrate you, and then 1st & 2nd born so your family is incapable of producing more eco-terrorists, that would dare consider cat removal