Is anyone using a by-pass oil filtration? What system are you using? Are you extending your drain intervals and under what conditions? Are you running synthetic oil?

Thanks, Brian.

Using an Amsoil dual remote (BMK-17). Using Dino oil in the warm months and semi-syn or syn in the winter. Not extending changes - change every 7500 miles with full flow cartridge replacement and both cartridges every other change, or 15000 miles.

I WAS using an Amsoil remote, but could not stop it from leaking. The first O-ring literally blew out. Luckily it was on a short trip. Dumped 2-3 quarts of oil in a mile. I have taken their system off my truck, as I can't trust their setup. I reinstalled 3 times, and always had at least slow drip leaks at the bottom of the adapter. I'll sell you mine cheap!!!

I'm using the Oil Guard Bypass setup. Have'nt had it on long enough to determine OCI yet, only 3000 miles on it to date. I'm happy with the performance so far. No drips, or leaks, and it was a real simple install. I've run the return line through the filler cap so I can see if the bypass filter is flowing oil. Using Rotella 15-40 dino oil along with oil analysis, and for my situation can't justify the cost of going synthetic.

What is an oil bypass?

It relocates the original location of the oil filter. The dual set up gives a better filteration than the single set up. One filter cuts contaminants my a certain micron while the other gets even smaller particles. Amsoil and Oil Guard are the only two that I am aware of.
I have the Amsoil set up. I am very happy with it and I change the white canister (26) every 6000 miles. And I just changed them both after 13,000 miles.
I have never cared for a sideways mounted filter.

Using Amsoil BMK17 with no problems. installed @ 7k, along with Amsoil 5w0-30 diesel oil (syn). At 16k I sent off sample for analysis. Lab said change filters, top off oil, and keep on trucking. Guess I'll analyze again after about a year, or 10k.
rfrancis, a bypass oil filter is set up on a line that byasses the rest of the oil flow, goes thru the filter and back into the oil pan. It has an extremely fine media and filters
to about 2 microns. But it only filters part of the oil, the flow is such that all the oil flows thru about every 5 min of operation. A full flow filter filters ALL of the oil after it leaves the pump and before entering the engine oil galleys. In order to do this, the media must be fairly open, and catches particles in the 20 micron and up range.
The Oilguard system is a pure add on bypass that takes a portion of the oil flow and runs it thru the filter and back to the oil pan.
The Amsoil BMK17 goes on in place of the standard filter, remotely mounts a large full flow and a huge bypass filter. It uses an adapter that goes where the standard filter went and large, heavy hose to connect up. Hope this is a satisfactory explanation, if not, ask away.

Oilguard, took it off, oil breaks down at 5k with/without it.

Amsoil...Oil analysis done with good results. I am gonna pull another sample this week before changing the oil...up to 8500 miles right now. Oil light has not illuminated to date.

IMO, the oil change light no longer is relevant once you install a bypass filter, as the oil life system is calibrated to the stock oem filtration system. Either use oil anaysis, or change at rec. of oil life system and gain satistaction in knowing that oi is being changed while still cleaner than need be.

Oilguard, took it off, oil breaks down at 5k with/without it.I'll take it off your hands; how much do you want for it? PM me. Thanks

IMO, the oil change light no longer is relevant once you install a bypass filter, as the oil life system is calibrated to the stock oem filtration system. Either use oil anaysis, or change at rec. of oil life system and gain satistaction in knowing that oi is being changed while still cleaner than need be.
Thats exactly what I do. I now just go by the oil life system light which was designed for the stock setup but should be on the conservative side while running the bypass. Usually around 7500 miles. Been running the Oil Guard about 60K miles.

What is an oil bypass?
Oil bypass (http://www.oilguard.com/HomepageBypassFiltration.htm)filter.

Thats what I am doing...I was interested in waiting for the light...but not so much anymore. I may just do it sooner than later. 10K will be the max.

I have an Oilguard bypass also. I have about 13,500 miles on this oil change. I did analysis at 5 and 10k miles, both came back excellent. I will get another analysis at 15k. I am doing this for the first oil change until it gets a report that indicates time to change, or 20k miles, which ever comes first.

I totally disagree with problemchild. It is a fact that the oil DOES NOT degrade. In fact it is the accumulation of byproducts of combustion and dirt AND the subsequent loss of additive that makes an oil bad. The oil itself is stable. A standard oil filter is incapable of filtering enough of these contaminants. The oil gets dirty and the additives wear out. A bypass will take care of this problem and allow you to use the oil for a much longer period. SPICER

Im not sure how it can be good after 5k?

At 5k mine starts burning oil like mad. The engine also starts clacking more and more. The oil pressure starts dropping slightly.

To me those are all signs the oil is broken down.

Im running synthetic and thats with/without a bypass.

Using Amsoil BMK17 with no problems. installed @ 7k, along with Amsoil 5w0-30 diesel oil (syn). At 16k I sent off sample for analysis. Lab said change filters, top off oil, and keep on trucking. Guess I'll analyze again after about a year, or 10k.
rfrancis, a bypass oil filter is set up on a line that byasses the rest of the oil flow, goes thru the filter and back into the oil pan. It has an extremely fine media and filters
to about 2 microns. But it only filters part of the oil, the flow is such that all the oil flows thru about every 5 min of operation. A full flow filter filters ALL of the oil after it leaves the pump and before entering the engine oil galleys. In order to do this, the media must be fairly open, and catches particles in the 20 micron and up range.
The Oilguard system is a pure add on bypass that takes a portion of the oil flow and runs it thru the filter and back to the oil pan.
The Amsoil BMK17 goes on in place of the standard filter, remotely mounts a large full flow and a huge bypass filter. It uses an adapter that goes where the standard filter went and large, heavy hose to connect up. Hope this is a satisfactory explanation, if not, ask away.
How easy was this install and where did it mount at?

How easy was this install and where did it mount at?
Just noticed your set-up, I also have a 2004 crew and casita, 17 FD cool . . . .

problemchild, are you saying your truck doesn't burn oil when it is freshly changed, but "starts burning oil like mad" after 5K miles? If you haven't sent that oil off for analysis, I think you should. No healthy engine should do that, and oil doesn't break down like that. If this is real, it suggests contamination, perhaps you have bad injectors and leak diesel fuel into the crankcase, thinning the oil to the point that it is more readily consumed.
I'm glad you live in California. You must have one heck of a dark cloud over you all the time! I prefer NC sunshine :D

BMK-17 Amsoil dual remote adapter mounts where the reg full flow filter went and has hookup nipples for the supplied hoses. The billet block to which the filters mount is the piece that you must mount somewhere.
I installed mine before I found out that Greg Landuyt offers a custom bracket that mounts to the frame inside the rail beside the trans. I mounted mine in about the same spot but fastened to underside of floorpan. It transfers a whining sound, which I assume is the oil pump noise at low speeds, especially when first started and cold oil.
I plan to eventually buy a bracket from Greg or fabricate my own, just a matter of finding the time.
Since Greg is a supporting vendor, my suggestion is to check with him, and also if you buy, do that from him, as he does help support ths great site.

Not to take anything away from the venders here, but I made my own bracket similar to theres. Easy to make. The stock bracket is useless in my eyes and it wont work for our application for the locations mentioned.
You definatly have to mount it to the frame in order to not have the noise that dirty old man described. I also used some garloc material as an additional sound absorger between the frame and the mount.

I am running Harvard bypass filters. I installed at 500 miles, now have 10K. Will do oil analysis at 15K. I change the fullflow filter every 10K. I will run the oil until the analysis says to change it. Makeup oil will be synthetic. So far, in 10K miles, I haven't added one drop to this motor.

Is anyone concerned with using the rubber hose that comes with the bypass kits for the hot oil to flow through? I sure don't like the idea of having external engine oil lines made of rubber which could blow out at anytime. Anyone use a steel braided hose, seems it like it would be a much better alternative?

Tim

Is anyone concerned with using the rubber hose that comes with the bypass kits for the hot oil to flow through? I sure don't like the idea of having external engine oil lines made of rubber which could blow out at anytime. Anyone use a steel braided hose, seems it like it would be a much better alternative?

Tim
Didn't like that either. I had a Hydraulic hose made up for the HP side at a local hose shop. The lowest pressure hydraulic hose they made was rated @1500 PSI and was plenty flexible. Also designed for high temp. If I'm not mistaken it was around $15 w/ JIC ends. I used the hose supplied with the kit for the LP side.

I use single layer wirebraid hose, not for the pressure but for the durability. Either crimp-on ends or reusable ends are good, I prefer reusable.

I used weatherhead stainless steel braided teflon hose for my OilGuard Setup (http://community.webshots.com/album/65003591xTSYrR)

http://image05.webshots.com/5/0/39/7/65003907XCiCNw_ph.jpg

A correctly specified rubber hose is OK but it will have to be replaced every few years.

:)

Where is the best place to get these different filter set-ups?

have used Amsoil's by-pass system for 385K miles. Great !!! Extended change to 60k & still returned "ok for continued use from oil analysis". I do change the the one filter & replace lost oil every 8 to 10K.

I ran the AMS setup for a while, saw no difference in oil analysis...now I run the harvard with stainless steel braided teflon hoses. @ 10K the oil is cleaner than when it went in....

BlueOX03, which model Harvard are you running? I have the 251, which isn't made anymore. It holds 5 qts, and is a cannister type. I mounted it to the frame behind and below the driver seat.