Hello-

Alright heres the deal-

Recently replaced the head gaskets on the Van (85 Chevy 6.2). Got it turning over but not starting. Didn't have time to trouble shoot further before a long vacation (2 months). Came back and it wouldn't even turn over. Had my batteries checked, they were bad, bought two new batteries. The starter still wouldn't turn over. Had my starter checked not once but twice at two different shops, both times it check out as good. Checked continuity between all the wires. All good. Checked the battery terminals and replaced anything that looked corroded. Still no go. Finally ran a 12G jumper wire straight from the battery to the starter solenoid. Still nothing. On a side note I can hear the solenoid clicking to activate, also when I turn the ignition I do get lights and wipers. Also my starter seems to have two small terminals on the solenoid. I have tried both of them one says R and the other S. In the manuals it looks like most of the 6.2 starter only have on terminal on the back (besides the main large terminal). So to recap:

new batteries
checked starter
tested continuity
ran a jumper to bypass the starter solenoid thing
power top lights and wipers with ignition
still nothing

I now have no clue what the heck to do. I guess my next step would be to go buy a new starter and try it out and return it if it didn't work. Does anybody have any ideas. I need to get this thing up and running ASAP. I feel I can trouble shoot any other starting problems but I'm at a loss on this one.

Thanks

Just saw the repairing the solenoid on starter sticky. will try it next but still wouldn't think that it would start when they put it in the tester at the shop if the solenoid was busted. I mean I'm not getting anything at all.

OK so I repaired/replaced the solenoid on the starter and still nothing. It didn't look bad to begin with but I did it anyway. I'm not getting any power at all to the starter. Can someone please give me any idea of what to try next?

My other thought was the neutral safety switch but the last owner has obviously bypassed it by taking both leads and connecting them. It had been starting this way since I owned it so I don't think this is the problem.The only thing left I can think of is the actual ignition switch itself. I don't know why it would have stopped suddenly though. I though I found a loose ground but when I connected it still nothing. Don't really want to tear apart the steering without cause can anyone tell me how to test it intact?

I'm at a loss HELP ANYONE PLEASE!

Oh and does anyone have the wiring diagram for an 89 chevy van? I have both the chilton 6.2 diesel manual and the "Diesel Page" manual neither have any wiring info.


:( This sucks

If the starter tested good at 2 different places then chances are its not the starter. I would check to make sure you have good grounds and then check voltage at the starter. Also check voltage on the start wire while trying to start it, if no voltage thats your problem. It needs 12 volts. Might want to upgrade all battery cables to at least 0 gauge, it makes all the difference. If you have good ground and voltage at the start wire and good connections to the starter from battery it should start.

Thanks-

Can someone tell me where I can find the grounds that would effect the starter?

Also, I'm pretty sure my cable is good as it checked out in a continuity test but I wouldn't mind changing it out if it will help with starting (esp. during the cold new england winter) can you tell me where I can get "0" cable? I think your last post mentioned something about welding shops?

Thanks-

Can someone tell me where I can find the grounds that would effect the starter?

Also, I'm pretty sure my cable is good as it checked out in a continuity test but I wouldn't mind changing it out if it will help with starting (esp. during the cold new england winter) can you tell me where I can get "0" cable? I think your last post mentioned something about welding shops?

I don't think a continuity test alone will necessarily confirm good cables because of the amperage needed by the starter. The cable can have continuity but not the current carrying capacity (ampacity) needed due to internal corrosion, breakage, etc.

Peyton

Try taking out the starter, but leave the wires connected (make sure the little wire is connected to the S terminal). Then find something that you can use to support the starter, so the wires aren't being pulled on by the starters weight. Now turn you key over. If the starter engages, it's a weak starter, replace it. I had a similar problem, except it turned over, just very slow. I replaced it and now it turn over just fine.

If this doesn't work, make sure your battery connection are good. Also check your grounds. You can also grind down any corrosion on the end of the negative cable, and the ground source ( where ever you connect the negative cable to)

checked fuses? I don't know if the starter wire from the ign has one, but it would be worth while to check.

get that starter out on the ground hook a jumper cable to the body of the starter and the positive side to the big lug on the solinoid get a screw driver that you don't mind ruining and jump accross from the big lug to the s term. caution have all this on the ground and a your foot on the starter body as it will torque alot and twist around. like i said it should energize and jump around when you try this. keep your fingers away from everything . the starter gear should jump forward and retract when doing this and only energize the starter for two to three seconds at a time. don't want to overspeed the poor thing. if it is your ignition switch they are mounted and the lower end of your steering column.

Hasnt the starter been tested already? This would confirm the test, but probably not help with starting. Continuity test will tell you if there is current path, not how much. You could run a 30 gauge wire to the starter and it will have continuity but not nearly enough current will pass to operate the starter. The ground on each battery should be bolted to the engine block, just follow the ground wire and inspect them. If they are damaged, replace them. I would recommend 0 or 00 gauge wiring, any welding supply should have that size cable, might even have the ends you need. I braised the ends so corrosion wont cause a problem anymore and now the starter turns over almost as fast as the engine while its running.
I would verify voltage to the starter and check the start wire to the starter, making sure it has 12 volts when trying to start and then check grounds. There is something missing.

It's not the ignition switch. You wouldn't be hearing the solenoid click if it was the ignition switch. Sounds to me like maybe that starter has a "dead spot". Try tapping it with a hammer or turning the shaft and then try and crank it. Also try turning the lights on and put the key in the start position and note if the lights dim. It's either the starter or a bad connection somewhere (in the big wiring to the starter, the little wiring for the cab etc. is apparently good).

EDIT: It is also NOT a fuse. You would not hear the solenoid.

Won't get to work on the van till Friday at the earliest but I would like to thank everyone for their suggestions. I am strongly leaning toward a ground.

Both batteries should have a ground? I replaced both terminals on the rear battery due to corrosion and think I may not have replaced/rewired the ground. Would this account for the problem? Should the ground be coming off of the negative or positive terminal? Will check on the front battery as well. These are the only two grounds I need to be concerned with?

Thanks again.

neg. terminal on both batteries need to be grounded to engine block and the cables need to be ever bit as good as the pos. cables. also small grounds should be attached to engine block to body and frame.

Update::

Update::

Finally I replaced all the terminal contacts, checked and replaced all the grounds, and had it towed. It would not start. The starter still would not turn over for me at all.

Called the garage today. They said that it turned over first thing for them, but that the starter bound up and fried the cable terminal on the positive of the battery!?

Questions-

any guesses as to what would cause it to start after getting towed that it wouldn't while sitting. Rattled loose a short or something?

Also- I asked the mechanic about working on getting it started after the starter issue was resolved. He said that he would have to bleed all of the fuel injectors at the injector!? Having been in there with a wrench before that doesn't sound like fun (its a van). I also don't recall reading this anywhere on the board. If you make sure to prime the fuel filter is this really necessary?

Thanks

In regards to a fuel filter change,usually thats all that needs to be bled if the pump and injector lines are full of fuel and air free.Sometimes with a fuel filter change the engine might still refuse to start so loosening 3-4 injector line fittings will let the air out so the lines can be bled successfully.Usually if you loosen and bleed 4 injector line fittings and you tighten them up that should allow the engine to start and run.

Let us know how everything turns out.:)

mine was doing the same thing, as far as making the clicking sound to activate but nothing else, but then ususally after enough times it would turn over and start. Finally i got sick of it though one morning and crawled under the van with a small jumper wire and touched both the small terminal and the large terminal on the started and it turned over right away. So i realized i was not getting 12 v to the starter for some reason so i fixed that. I would do this test before spending any money on new cables or a starter.

if that does nothing you will need someone with an amp meter to come out and see what kind of amps the starter is pulling when you turn the key -that would at least tell you if the engine is locked up for some reason or if the starter is just not getting enough amps.

Paul