Ok the prototype is done. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/CD3_DCP_0752e.jpg


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/45E_DCP_0754e.jpg


Obviously this isn't stainless as of yet. I still need to test this out for a while(don't want a swinging arm scratching up the paint). I also need to select the style of stainless.


The options are 303(most expensive), 316(middle of road), and 304(least expensive). I also need to do a quick CAD layout and e-mail to the fabs my company does business with to get some quotes. I can make these myself, but consistency is an issue with equipment I have available at work.


The steel will be 1/8 x 1inch so they should be quite strong and durable. For the pivot, right now I'm looking at a 3/8" clevis pin with cotter pin. This is for future maintenance of the pivot. When it either begins to stick or corrode, remove clean, lube and reinsert(or just replace). These pins are almost $5 a piece, so I'm exploring other options at the moment.


For cost, I'm hoping to keep these cheap. I can't give a real price yet since I don't know machining costs as of yet, but it's a simple piece. Cost of machining stainless tends to be a little more pricey though. Quantity will make a huge price differential, so demand will also dictate the price as well.





More to come......http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Approve.gif


Edited by: Victory Red

Ok the prototype is done.


Obviously this isn't stainless as of yet. I still need to test this out for a while(don't want a swinging arm scratching up the paint). I also need to select the style of stainless.


The options are 303(most expensive), 316(middle of road), and 304(least expensive). I also need to do a quick CAD layout and e-mail to the fabs my company does business with to get some quotes. I can make these myself, but consistency is an issue with equipment I have available at work.


The steel will be 1/8 x 1inch so they should be quite strong and durable. For the pivot, right now I'm looking at a 3/8" clevis pin with cotter pin. This is for future maintenance of the pivot. When it either begins to stick or corrode, remove clean, lube and reinsert(or just replace). These pins are almost $5 a piece, so I'm exploring other options at the moment.


For cost, I'm hoping to keep these cheap. I can't give a real price yet since I don't know machining costs as of yet, but it's a simple piece. Cost of machining stainless tends to be a little more pricey though. Quantity will make a huge price differential, so demand will also dictate the price as well.





More to come......<IMG id=chkImg1 onmouseover="this.style.cursor='hand'" onmouseout="this.style.cursor=''" alt="Click on image to open in new window" src="smileys/Approve.gif" name=chkImg2>











When it come's to Stainless Steel the expert you need to talk with is Mackin.


PM him I am sure he can set ya up...............





Thttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clown.gifNYEdited by: hoot

I like!!! http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gif


Everytime I load my ATV, I feel like my life is in the hands of some Chevy Intern Engineer!!! Heck with somethin' like this I should be able to load 'em two at a time!

Prairie Goat,


It's comments like yours that make me a little leary. There is always the 'liability issue'. Even though I know you're comment was just in fun.


I've learned some things about the tailgate setup. On both ends to hold the current straps are just welded on nuts to the sheet metal. While these straps will likely hold a lot of weight, there is a chance of someone overloading and ripping the the metal around the bolt.


I'm designing these so no one get's shocked by a string breaking, not to add beef to the tailgate capacity. EVERYONE MUST REALIZE THIS before I get these out to the interested parties.


If these for some reason begin to fail, you'll be able to visually see a stress point, this is not the case with the OEM's. That's my main reason for producing these.

The biggest design variable is if some one drops a large load on the tail gate or some times I jump my four wheeler off an embankment into the back of my truck. It's crazy people like me you need to be concerned about. You could calculate the static strength of the strap but its that unknown load that will get you.

Seems to me the problem would not be with the strap but the mounting points. Would it not be the same stress and the same possible failure with the stock cables??

yes there would be, but the reason for the replacements is because of several reports of the cables corroding and snapping(not at the crimp points or the mounts) but the actual cable failing. This would eliminate the chance of that happening, but I don't want to give anyone a false sense of security that these actual make the tailgate hold more weight. These won't corrode, fray, or rust apart like the factory ones can.

VR,


If I were worried about liability (and I certainly would be somewhat apprehensive as you are), I'd be tempted to include some type of warning (note, sticker, or ???) about not exceeding the GM Recommended Load Capacity on the tailgate. By the way anyone know what the weight rating is for the tailgate? I don't recall seeing it in the owner's manual, but I seem to remember seeing something about 500lbs many years ago. With many of us loading 600lb+ machines (not to mention the weight of the roundboy at the helm!) this hopefully is not the case.

My truck only has 22000 miles on it and its barely over a year old, cables are starting to bubble, I will pay for the top quality of good material Rick. Dont worry about a cheeaper this or that, make them solid, if its good product price wont be a huge issue...as long as its reasonable. 50.00 is very reasonable for the added security, ever priced getting your tailgare fixed becuase the bumper creased it????


Eric

Rick (Victory Red) ...


For your info: I just purchased a replacement set of tailgate cables. I first went to the local CarQuest store but was told they were parts that had to come from my GM dealer. Just to let you know, the GM part number for these cables is 88892973. They cost $15.09 EACH which with our state tax brought my bill for 2 cables to $32.29. I agree with those above who recommend going with high quality materials. The design you have pictured is much like the ones that came on my '78 Jeep J-10 pickup. I kept that truck for 24 years (let her go in early '02) and never had to replace the tailgate supports. Needless to say, even with a new set of cables on my truck, I am interested in purchasing a set that I know will not have to be replaced in a couple of years!


Jim

I had an '89 Chevy Fullsize that had the factory hard straps. They were cad plated steel. Then I got a brnd new '93. I believe it came with the wire rope style. Since I had both trucks still I swapped the better ones before I sold the older ones.

Guess you can't by the old style anymore even if you had an '89 and wanted original equipment.

Victory Red... I'll buy a set in a heartbeat.Edited by: hoot

Well, cost is an issue, but in all honesty I hope to keep these sets(both of them at $40ish or less). A 3/8" Clevis is strong enough for a pivot point both weight wise and wear and replaceable, a big want that I think these should have. The thickness of the steel and width are more or less being dictated by space. 1/8" x 1" doesn't seem like much but next time you're at your hardware store find the steel section and try flexing it at a 7" or 9" inch length. It won't happen easily.


Anyhow for those of you not in the know, 304 stainless is the exhaust we have. It's also most common in food grade applications. The quality of the steel also affects the machinability. Here's a quick rundown of the steel grades I can get:


AlSl 303
<UL>A chromium-nickel stainless steel modified with selenium, sulphur, and phosphorus to improve machinability. It is corrosion resistant to atmospheric exposures, most organic and inorganic chemicals, dyes, nitric acid, and foods. It is manufactured by the electric-furnace process and meets the exacting requirements of the aircraft industry. This type stainless steel is often used for parts requiring machining, grinding, or polishing where good corrosion resistance is necessary[/list]
<UL>AISI 304
<UL>A low carbon stainless steel which provides good resistance to corrosion. Carbide precipitation is minimized during welding operations. Often used where corrosion resistance and good mechanical properties are of great importance. Frequently used in the food and beverage industry which requires a high degree of sanitation and cleanliness.[/list]
<UL>AISI 316
<UL>Offers higher corrosion resistance than Types 302 or 304 due to the addition of molybdenum. This type is also highly resistant to pitting and withstands corrosive actions of acids, dyes, and salts used in the process, textile, and pulp industries. Applications include the manufacture of pumps, valves, textile and chemical equipment,[/list]
<UL>[/list]
<UL>[/list]
<UL>304 is the least expensive, 316 adds around 20% cost of materials and 303 around 60% to the cost of material. [/list]
<UL>At this point my only real concern is the machining costs. Once I get some time to talk with our various fabs and figure in the final price point I'll be ready to go. [/list][/list][/list]Edited by: Victory Red

I would be interested in the straps also as I load my 600lb plus wheeler often also and all I can think about is the the cable snapping. count me in on a set.

How about 15-5 PH ? I believe it machines well and its strength and corrosion resistance are excellent. Might be more expensive though.

Victory Red,


Count me in! Fifty bucks a set is a great price for the peace of mind they will provide.


Tim

Victory Red I'm in too.

Put me on the list.... I can flex the tailgate on the passenger side enought to see the strap has let loose at the crimp...... I need some now.... Still under warrenty so i hope they can cover me till I can get these.....

I will buy a set also when they're ready...well worth the peace of mind when loading the four wheeler....thanks

They would give me peace of mind. I think 304 stainless would be excellent. In the worst element it would just get a mild surface rust that could be wiped of with a plastic scrubbie and wd 40 if it bothered anyone. Looking foward to avaliabillty.

The old ones they used on the C/K's were mild steel with a dull cad plating.

Well here's the good news. I found a good supply for the Clevis Pin that I'm using as the pivot point. The price I was quoted will cut the cost of that part by almost 30%. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gif They weren't in stock but I ordered them and should have them near the latter part of the week.


One of our vendors came in today and I was able to catch him and hand deliver the strap I made and chat with him. More than likely it'll end up being 303 stainless(a higher grade than 304 and 316) because it's easier to work with and machine and per his recommendation. Hopefully within a week I'll have a quote on the work. My target price for these is still $40 per set. Hopefully that goal will remain.


Anyhow, I don't know what the real demand for these will be. Initially I'm planning on making 10 sets. The reasons are:
<UL>
<LI>These haven't truly been field tested yet. I'd like a few people to get these, try them and provide some feedback(I'm thinking Eric our expert, and Hoot our "I'll tell it the way I see it expert" are prime candidates. My biggest concern at the moment is the possibility of it swinging back and forth with normal driving and marring the paint. An easy fix with 3M foam tape(or some other protective material), but a little cheesy so I'm exploring options for this. </LI>
<LI>I'm not a vendor. These will be ordered in quanitities dictated by demand. I'm not going to buy 100 sets and hope to move all the stock and recover my costs. </LI>
<LI>I'm not looking to make any money off these. Just as a payback for some of the free information I've gotten and friends that I've made and some of the help that has been offered to me from local members with adding toys to my truck.</LI>
<LI>Shipping may be a pain. For each individual I'll have to look up their Zips and manually calculate each shipping cost, package, then run to the local shop and drop off. I also cannot take credit cards.</LI>[/list]


Needless to say, it's been a fun project for me. I hope everything comes together and I can offer something of value back to the members of the page.


Stay tuned.........

Victory Red,

You might want to look into paypal for payment. I have used it quite a bit with no problems. It would allow people to pay you either via credit card or eft from one of their accounts. You can get a paypal account for free.

John

VR


Don't do individual shipping charges. Get a weight and get a price to the furthest zipcode and use that for everyone. The weight will not be that great so the cost differecne in shipping will not be high.


Lots of vendors charge fixed price shipping.

CS Dmax,


I looked into Paypal. They hit you(me actually) with a percentage like most credit card processors. Plus when I 'cash out' the account it appears I take another hit. I'm not totally sure, but that's what I got from the way I read it.


First Diesel


Not a bad idea to just go flat rate. Now I just need to find the furthest point from where I am http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Confused.gifhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Wacko.gif

Don't sell yourself short VR. Make sure you make a few bucks for your trouble.

Let me know when you need my address http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gif

VR


I agree with Hoot. Make a few bucks for your trouble.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gif The potential trouble you're saving me from is worth it.


I always worry about those lousy cables when my three kidsters are sitting on the tailgate(170 lb. +/-). You're really doing everybody a great service by taking on the project. I'm confident you will be providing us with a quality product, so make it worth your time.


Let me know when you need my address out here on the Left Coast.


Tim


Edited by: 1*

Victory,

I would much rather pay $60 for a well made set with quality materials than $40 and cheap materials. Sorry about the bum lead on pay-pal. I have used it multiple times as a buyer, never as a seller. How high of a % take do they get ya for? Maybe folks that use it just build into their price the percentage hit that they will take for the "convenience" factor. Regardless, however I get the $$$$ to you, still interested.

Thanks,

John

PayPal charges 3% and they don't charge to remove your money.....so you can just add the 3% to the sale price. Another good thing is it is insured.....just in case.


How are you gonna decide who get in on the 10 you are having done?


Another suggestion....take orders for a couple days.....get the money....then build that amount or a few extra. No risk...and no out of pocket money....I doubt you will have a problem selling them.

A few of us lifted/rolled a huge tree trunk into the back of the truck and all I could think about was "please don't fail me now!" Thing must have been about 300 pounds.

First thing I must say is WOW. I never expected quite the response that I'm getting at this moment. I did get in contact with a second fabber today(friend of a co-worker) to get another manufacturing quote.


Anyhow I've also thinking to beef up the straps slightly to 3/16" vs the old 1/8". The top slot mount got me thinking about a potential shear point under stress. I honestly don't know how strong the sheet metal mounts are, but if I can add a little beef to the setup at a negliable cost why not??


I do hope that by mid next week at the latest to have a firm price and even start production.


As for who gets the first ones. Haven't thought that far ahead yet. I do know that I want people who drive and use their tailgate a lot for any possible mods I may need to correct for. I also want someone not afraid to slap me upside the head if they're not satisfied with what I've offered(ala Hoot http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Ermm.gif, which I mean in a good way, not to point you out http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif)


For production, that'll be a play by ear. If the responses are good for the initial batch and demand is high I'll order as I see appropriate. I expect one big rush, then a small trickle if these are received well. I'll more than likely keep a small stock handy for the trickle. I'll also look into some options such as Paypal for those uneasy about writing checks.


As for selling myself short by not making myself a little, as I stated since the big 3 are using the cables now, let the other two have the creased tailgates. Initially I was doing this for myself only, then decided to add a poll to see if anyone else wanted them as well. Just a weekend project.


I don't have an interest in becoming a vendor just taking advantage of my current work situation and doing what I can to make our trucks just 'that much better'. Plus to the fact that if these don't hold up as well as I'd like to think the design will, I'll sleep easier knowing I didn't cash in on something that didn't live up to my and our expectations.


The real nice thing is that should one piece fail(such as the Clevis I'm using for the pivot rather than a rivot), it can be easily replaced by visiting your local hardware store. As for the other parts getting damaged, since it can be completely disassembled, I can offer replacement pieces rather than the whole part should the need arise.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

More than likely it'll end up being 303 stainless
Great news -- that's what I would have voted for anyway. Might as well have something that will outlast the truck. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif


My biggest concern at the moment is the possibility of it swinging back and forth with normal driving and marring the paint. An easy fix with 3M foam tape(or some other protective material), but a little cheesy so I'm exploring options for this.
Is your test set rubbing anywhere? In my case, if it looked like they might I'd probably just dip them in that liquid rubber stuff they sell at the hardware store (excluding the pivot point, of course). That might solve the problem, assuming there is one of course.


I'm not looking to make any money off these. Just as a payback for some of the free information I've gotten and friends that I've made and some of the help that has been offered to me from local members with adding toys to my truck.
While your generosity is noteworthy, I think it's a little misplaced. Yes, we've ALL benefit from this -- and many other -- forums, but for the most part we've all given back too (we get info, we give info). Seems like a wash to me.

But this is a bit different. You're taking considerable time and effort to create a solution to a problem, a real problem. I think you should allow yourself some profit, as compensation for your skills.


Shipping may be a pain. For each individual I'll have to look up their Zips and manually calculate each shipping cost, package, then run to the local shop and drop off. I also cannot take credit cards.
The credit card issue might be a problem, and I don't know how you can overcome that.

I agree with the others on shipping charges; flat rate shipping. Realistically, when most companies charge for "shipping and handling" the biggest expensive is the d@mn handling charge, not the shipping charge. Since you aren't charging for handling a flat rate shipping fee seems very reasonable to me.


Anyhow I've also thinking to beef up the straps slightly to 3/16" vs the old 1/8". The top slot mount got me thinking about a potential shear point under stress. I honestly don't know how strong the sheet metal mounts are, but if I can add a little beef to the setup at a negliable cost why not??
Why not indeed. Sounds like a good idea to me.


For production, that'll be a play by ear. If the responses are good for the initial batch and demand is high I'll order as I see appropriate. I expect one big rush, then a small trickle if these are received well.
The "received well" part will, of course, be dictated by the usefulness of the braces, as well as the quality of materials and workmanship. Only time will tell about that.

But, I suspect that you'll most likely get more then a "trickle" after the initial batch. If these things turn out to be a good, sturdy alternative to these BS cables we all have now I'm gonna start posting your solution to all the other forums I participate in. My guess would be that the trickle will turn into a flood, because there's a lot of people ticked off at GM for these cheesy cables.


The real nice thing is that should one piece fail(such as the Clevis I'm using for the pivot rather than a rivot)
This is the only point I wish you'd reconsider; using a clevis. Personally, I would rather it be a rivet. For one, it looks more "professional" and factory. For another, they're narrower, so they can fit into tighter spaces (and there's less chance they'll rub too). And since there's no cotter pin they're less likely to snag something.

What about making em outa mild steel(something cheap) and then putting some of that tool dip or the like on there? It would keep em looking deccent for the most part and keep it from scratiching or dinging anything if it smacked it. I dont think most people are concerened with them looking all spiffy. Even the cad plated stuff would work but I think it would be expensive in the quanitys you are talking.


Count me in BTW for the "production" set or if you need a tester. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

VR,


I agree with Jim Wilson's post concerning the clevis pin. He has a good point. Using a rivet would save on thickness clearance issues and there might be snagging / scratching issues with the clevis set-up. Don't the older pick-ups with the straps use rivets? I don't think there has been much of an issue concerning rivet failure over the years. If later on down the road a rivet does fail they can be replaced or a new set of hinges can be purchased (provided you still have some).


I disagree with RatLover's post concerning the use of mild steel and a chessy coating.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Thumbs Down.gif I think the majority of us do want them to look "spiffy."http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cool.gif


This is just my two cents worth on the subject. I'm just thankful that you've taken on the project. Clevis pin or rivet; I know you can't please everybody even though you seem to be giving it a try. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gif


Tim

VR,


Please add me to the list. I think this is a great project and I appreciate your efforts. Wish you'd factor in a few bucks for yourself to justify your time and energy.


Flat-rate shipping for continental US is best idea.

JimW,


you sure you covered all the bases in your post??? http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif


Anyhow, anything other than stainless is not an option right now. Although if someone requests plain steel I'd be more than happy to oblige if they would rather paint it to match.


I don't forsee the clevis being a big issue. They come 3/8 x 2". I milled them down to size and drilled a new hole. I will look into rivets if that's what the masses want.


As for my test set, I don't have them at the moment. One of the fabs I'm getting bids from took them to replicate them in stainless. The other one I'm currently waiting from is a large shop that I just e-mailed a mechanical desktop drawing to.


The low amount of initial straps is for the proper field testing. While it may not rub on mine, it might pose issues for others that drive their trucks differently. A different load, off road, dirt road, poorly paved whatever. The first users will be beta testers. I don't forsee any real problems, but I can't visualize every possible situation.


I have considered the liquid dip. I haven't found it to be very durable and hard to evenly coat. It is a possibility that the first runs will see it since it's available at work to test with.


Another issue I'm still struggling with is the spring steel at the top mount for quick release. This is basically to keep it from bouncing up enough to pop off when driving will the gate down. I've only been able to find it so far in plain black steel(looks kind of crappy). Nor is this material bendable(it breaks) even with a score and/or cut. So that material will more than likely have to be coated if I can't find the right replacement. What GM is using, I haven't been able to find as of yet.


As for demand, intially it seems high, but please I really want this properly field tested first. 10 seems like a good number. If there's more that are willing to gamble say so, I'll make more but you must realize while I'm sure the straps will be more than sturdy enough, I can't guarantee any nicks or scratches from it swinging as of yet under driving conditions.


As for compensation for me. I'll tell you what, whatever the final cost turns out to be say $37 a set I'll round up to the nearest whole number in this case $40. Whatever I 'make' from these straps will go to my 16month old savings account. That way when he graduates from college and gets a better job than his old man I can retire and live off of him http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gifhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gif.





Finally I'll throw this out. Those of your seriously interested in these e-mail me mailto:victory@wi.rr.com (victory@wi.rr.com).


I've edited this because I was was hashing myself too hard. There could be possible issues with these. Mainly the potential swinging back and forth of these straps. I just can't honestly answer that question at the moment. There are too many variables right n

Strapping steel makes good spring steel... and cheap.

Mackin? got anything?

What are they gauges (thickness and width and height) of the material ?? Stainless comes in all "flavors" .... How are you making the part and attaching to the cable ??

Type 303 Stainless is very easily "worked" but doesn't take well to welding .... Do you have access to the physical properties of this grade ?? I'm sure it's superior but not that common in strip for me .... It does not work hard which is my niche Rolling strip to desired tempers ....

Any 18-8 series cable would be fine ...

I can supply you full hard, half hard, quarter hard etc. in any width ....I could supply slit width and you could cut to desired length and modify ... This will "not" break and will retain it's memory once formed .... I believe quarter hard or half would be best if I'm thinking the same piece you desire to fab ....

Forget strapping .... It is brittle and will rust as it is regular steel .... Brittle for a reason,to break clean in it's application with out "cutting"....It will break bent upon itself unlike "most" stainless ....

I don't have access to my truck so you'll have to help me out with dimensions .... Tell me what you think you need and I'll send you some samples ....

Mac Edited by: Mackin

MAC.... no cable.

The setup he's designed is two pieces of approx 1/8" x 3/4 wide or so straps. Hinged. Look at the first pics.

MAC.... no cable.

The setup he's designed is two pieces of approx 1/8" x 3/4 wide or so straps. Hinged. Look at the first pics.

Ah ....

My bad .... I didn't read the whole thread just jumped in ....

No matter let me know what you want ,if you'd like ... Still stands about welding tho,for future refferance .... But with 1/8 by 3/4 I don't think that will apply in this application,I was thinking cable and you were attaching a "end" piece ...

Looks good ....

Mac http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Approve.gif Edited by: Mackin

Mackin,


No welding involved. The material is going to be 303 stainless flat stock cond a annealed. The thickness for the top hinge will be 3/8 x 1", the bottom hinge 1/8"x1. I'm milling out the top slot, the hinge point and the lower hole.


What I'm basically looking for is a replacement for the spring steel at the top that they use to keep the cable from popping off by itself.


I did find some stainless from McMaster-Carr but it's only available in 15m rolls. It also needs to be formed, than heated for it to 'set'. Well 15m is more than I'll probably ever need.


I also need a good way to attach it to the top. I'm thinking GM may place the spring then crimp some sort of buckle or tac weld to keep in place. In my case, I'm thinking drilling and tapping the strap, using a FHCS or BHCS to attach the spring then a piece of shrink tube over the hole or a plastic dip.


It need not have a bend to it(Dodge and Fords are straight), but must be flexible and rust resistant.


If you have anything in mind please let me know. This has been a PITA trying to match.Edited by: Victory Red

Actually after re-reading your post it seems you could supply me with material I can use to crimp the spring to the top. That would be the best option if possible. I could mill a groove(extra machining time though http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Disapprove.gif) to keep the crimp from it possibly sliding.

Victory,

An offset bend instead of thick material and a milled slot would be much cheaper.

Ok here's what's new. I'm having a little trouble with my vendors since I can't give a real number on total production and most don't want to deal with 'small orders'. It's just not a priority.


Anyhow here's what I'm doing.


Today I designed a jig for our Arbor press that will allow me to make consistent bends. Tomorrow or saturday I hope to make the pieces and place to see if how well it works. If all goes well I will, at first at least depending on demand, make these myself(along with a co-worker from the production floor) on weekends.


These will be 3/8" x 1" 303 stainless for the top half of the strap and 1/8"x 3/8" with a stainless Clevis for the pivot point. I am experimenting with the rubber dip to see how well it works to alleviate any possible marring of paint from the hinge. I'm also going to chamfer the pieces to round them off so no sharp edges to bump or rub. I believe this will be enough, only real life will answer that question.


The price of $40 per set(both sides)+ shipping which I estimate at this time to be around $6 via USPS padded mailer for the 48 states. Materials are running me less than $40 but since I have a 'volunteer' now to help me make these, I need to compensate him for his time.


I've gotten several personal e-mails already and I have room for a few more.


I still need to collect the materials.


I still need to test my jig setup.


If all goes well, production will start in the next two weeks. When I have 10 sets made and in hand I will at that point give out my mailing address for those to wish to buy.


My e-mail is in a post a few messages up. If you're interested let me know.


On edit, a quick thank you to those willing to help me test, tweak and refine this product. Edited by: Victory Red

Vic

Can't heat treat 303 stainless or any 18-8 for that matter has to be "work" hardened ....

Type 410,420 etc can be heat treated to harden .... These will rust over time ....

Tell me thickness and width ,I'll supply Quarter Hard and Half hard Three Quarter hard and full hard if need be,samples, for you to machine if you need them .... I'm not looking for a in, just trying to assist ... When you need a few hundred LB's we'll talk ....

Mac http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif Edited by: Mackin

Heck if I make 50 when all is said and done I'll be impressed. I wasn't in this to make money but save money(ala tailgate repairs). Then I decided that why not make a few sets for people that what them. Then when response got larger than I expected I begin to look into mass manufacturing.


Still not sure what the demand will be as I'm sure a few are gunshy at the moment with my saying I just don't know right now. That plainly lets everyone know that I'm doing this for the better, not for the $$$$.


I'm thinking maybe 1/2" with a thickness in the area of .008 would be the ticket, maybe a little thicker for a spring steel retaining clip setup.


As for your 'samples' what I'd need is 20" lengths of 3/8" x 1" and 1/8" x 1" in flat stock. If you can arrange to get me some of these items as samples I'll do a run off and send these out to people free except for shipping costs as a trial run. I'd like to be able to make 10 sets, but whatever you could 'spare' in either case, I'd make the max amount I could and send out to volunteers(I've got 7 already).Edited by: Victory Red

For those of you that have e-mailed me and didn't receive a response as of yet I apologize. I dont have a firm ETA for the first sets as of yet. I'm also currently trying to work with Mackin for some of the materials(Thanks Mackin!!!). Hopefully the week of Thanksgiving I'll be mailing these out to the people that responded.


Anyhow I started my jig today for the bends. I'll go in tomorrow to finish it up and give it some trial runs. I also heard from one vendor today who actually was dropping off a sample. I didn't talk to him personally and left before he got there but hopefully they'll be on my desk when I get there tomorrow.


As for Jim Wilson who mentioned the Plastic Dip. I've been experimenting with it at work. When I 'loosen it up' with Xylene the finish actually comes out somewhat nice. A few bubbles here and there, but I've also been speeding it up for dry time with a heat gun. It's more durable than I expected so it may see it's way to test sets. I'm going to see if I can find it silver for color to blend a little nicer. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif





Also for those who sent me e-mails. Please if you could send another with your screen name added if you didn't initially. It makes it easier to figure out who's whoEdited by: Victory Red

If you want a plastic type covering and you have a local Line-X they could shoot a pair for you as a test. If you drop them off and let them shoot them in their spare time they will usally give you a fair price. Just a thought.

Victory Red, I don't have a problem with my cables and my wife "The Warden" works at a chevrolet dealer handling all the warranties, she hasn't had any trucks come in for this problem as of yet. However it sound like there is a deffinate problem with the cables, so let me know when you have them available and I will get a set from you for future problems (if any) Thankyoubye

02Allimax,


I at this time don't have a problem with my catch straps either. From inspection the biggest problem with the aircraft cable that they and other guys use is the crimping and the shrink wrapping.


This material will rust. The problem is in the crimps. They are not watertight(nor are our tailgates. Plus if you inspect your cables especially at the top quick release you'll notice a squirt of 'glue' in there. It's there for two reasons, one to protect fingers from stray wire strands and two to keep water out.


If the glue job isn't good you'll get water intrusion. If it gets into an area where little to air can pass, it begins to corrode the straps. They begin to unwind themselves, then they lose their strength. Needless to say a better sealing job and clear shrink tubing would make it easier to monitor the condition of the cables.


In my case, I thought about the old fashioned solid metal straps. I began to look at making a set for myself then opened it up to others who felt unsure about the cables.


I'm only offering these as an alternative. I make no claims that the cables are inferior quality, I, like many, prefer to have options available to me. In my case, the straps offer a visual notification of stress related wear vs the covered cable. I can also make these at a slightly higher cost than the factory replacements and in a 303 stainless material.


This is just an option I'm offering to people. I'm not claiming the greatest invention since sliced bread. At this current time I'm not even sure of any real benefits in the real world except for the rust resistant nature of the material I'm using and the forewarning of possible failure by being able to physically see the condition of the straps.

Great Idea. I would be happy to distribute the product for a slight fee. I can run credit cards and do the shipping.

just a thought, the top hole is slotted to make removal &amp; installation of the tailgate easy. how many people actually remove their tailgate that much. would a simple round hole at the top be more practical. this would also deter tailgate theft. just my 2cents. by the way i am on my 3rd set of cables and would like a set when available or for testing. Keep up the good work!

On strap durablity, I have broke 2 cables so far. One with 4 wheeler on load, the second, Me and a buddy was sitting down getting ready to eat after a good morning of bow hunting. Neither caused much damage cause only lost one side, but it sure made my heart beat like h3!!


On tailgate removal, I remove mine about 3 or 4 times a month. Mostly when I am moving trailers for neighbors or hauling some cattle off. Have forgot a time or 2 in the past to lower tailgate when in a hurry. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cry.gif

JimW,
you sure you covered all the bases in your post??? http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif
I'll have to go back and check to be certain. Don't want to miss anything after all...http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clown.gif

Should any of you not desire the slots at the top that one is easy to oblige, it actually saves me a little bit of work. As for progress, well it's at a standstill. I've currently nursing 3 sick kids and 1 wife with a stomach flu. Hasn't hit me as of yet, but i'm sure it will just in time to ruin my weekend.


Anyhow I still hoping to run a few off asap then send them out for trial and feedback on any possible improvements changes I may need to make.