I am in the process of installing a military 6.2 mated to a 700r4 trans into my 94 Toyota Land Cruiser. I have a few questions.
First, I have read about a throttle position switch? I believe this goes on the trans? There are 2 wires coming out from a switch on the IP, do these connect to a switch on the trans? (my trans is bare, I will have to get one if so)
Second, I need brakes! I am considering using a vacuum pump and keeping my current set-up and use the vacuum from the pump for the booster. Will this work?
Third, I need to change to 12V on my IP selonoid and glow plugs (the starter is not on it) any reccomendations on these?, and anything else running 24V?
Fourth, I assume the fuel routing goes from the filter through the fuel line going under the intake to the distributor/pump. There are small hoses from each injector that finally end up in a metal tube that crosses over and connects with the other side, is this a fuel return line? There is also a larger diameter metal tube that goes from the right rear head, under the intake and comes out and down the front left near the water pump and what I think is the fuel return line. What is this line?
Thanks, I am sure there will be many more questions as I go.
Rusty

First, I have read about a throttle position switch? I believe this goes on the trans? There are 2 wires coming out from a switch on the IP, do these connect to a switch on the trans? (my trans is bare, I will have to get one if so)


The 700R4 uses a throttle cable, so you don`t need the position switch for it. But you will need a TV cable.


Second, I need brakes! I am considering using a vacuum pump and keeping my current set-up and use the vacuum from the pump for the booster. Will this work?
No. On Diesel powered vehicles, they either use the power steering pump or a (dedicated) hydraulic pump to get a brake booster --- or air brakes. If it was as simple as using the vacuum pump for it, I guess manufacturers would do that and save a lot of money on it.

But Landcruisers are available with Diesels from the factory. That means there is an OEM brake setup for Diesels available for them. If you`r interested, send me a PM and I can try to find out more about that.


Third, I need to change to 12V on my IP selonoid and glow plugs (the starter is not on it) any reccomendations on these?, and anything else running 24V?
Afaik, the glow plugs and the starter would be the only things running on 24V. The fuel shutoff solenoid very likely uses 12V. You can try it out by supplying 12V to it --- if it really needs 24V, I don`t see that supplying only 12V could do any harm.

See also: http://www.google.com/search?q=cucv+12v+conversion&start=0&start=0&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=iceape&rls=org.debian:en-US:unofficial
http://www.roscommonequipmentcenter.com/news_notes/nn10.pdf


Fourth, I assume the fuel routing goes from the filter through the fuel line going under the intake to the distributor/pump. There are small hoses from each injector that finally end up in a metal tube that crosses over and connects with the other side, is this a fuel return line?
exactly


There is also a larger diameter metal tube that goes from the right rear head, under the intake and comes out and down the front left near the water pump and what I think is the fuel return line. What is this line?
Thanks, I am sure there will be many more questions as I go.
There`s a return line connected to the top of the IP. Afair this return line is connected to the metal tube which runs down at the passenger side of the water pump --- I think I noticed that yesterday when replacing the alternator.

BTW, you should be able to find service manuals on an internet auction site; search for "cucv" there. I don`t have one of those, but they are inexpensive and might be worth the money.

Throttle position switch is for lockup converter. Not actually required if you set the trans up right for it.

Some diesel vehicles utilize vacuum pumps to run the brakes. The Ford F350, for example, uses an electric vacuum pump to run the brakes. The stock 6.2 vacuum pump isn't suitable to run brakes with though.

you will need a more powerfull vacuum pump if you want to run vacuum brakes. you would be better off grabbing the hydroboost setup that comes on 6.2/6.5 powered trucks and using that, much stronger brake system.

Throttle position switch is for lockup converter. Not actually required if you set the trans up right for it.

Some diesel vehicles utilize vacuum pumps to run the brakes. The Ford F350, for example, uses an electric vacuum pump to run the brakes. The stock 6.2 vacuum pump isn't suitable to run brakes with though.

Has anybody tried running the vacuum pump off a super duty on a 6.2 powered truck. If hydraboost is so great (and it probably is) why doesn't Ford use it on super duty's??? Thought I read somewhere some cummins dodge trucks run vacuum powered brakes as well.

Hydroboost is awesome. I love mine. You could run an electric pump for your brakes and it would work fine though. There are quite a few cars (even some gas cars) that used that system. The Ford super duty pump should do the job. There are also aftermarket electric vacuum pumps that are commonly used to run brakes in diesel and electric vehicle conversions. If it were me and I had to pick between hydroboost and electric vacuum I would definitely choose hydroboost, but electric is probably an easier install. Hydroboost is probably (pretty much definitely) more reliable and tougher though...

Super Dutys have hydroboost (or whatever Ford calls it). The electric vacuum pump on them is too tiny for brakes, it is just for the heater controls. Older powerstrokes had a belt driven vacuum pump, not sure if it would be practical but you could probably rig one of those up. Some turbo charged engines have an auxilliary electric or belt driven vacuum pump as well, tho the electric ones I've looked at in junk yards are wierd with solenoids and such.

I don't have a link handy but I know there used to be aftermarket electric vacuum pumps for around $120 specifically for operating brakes on vehicles that have been modified and no longer have sufficient engine vacuum. The only ones I know of right off are from places like summit racing and are up around $300 tho...

EDIT: this may be of some interest - http://www.california.com/~eagle/figs/vacpump/vac.html
I looked one of those up on partsamerica and it was $150 refurbed....

Hm, maybe it`s only me, but I`d be scared having an electrical vacuum pump to power a brake booster --- all the more so if equiped with an ABS system.

Me too. All the same it is a common system.

im going to run a electric pump in my 85 gasser that im putting in a 5.9 cummins. Worst case if the pump fails you wount have power brakes BUT you will still have brakes.

Did you ever try to brake one of these trucks without the brake booster?

I did once with the `96 Tahoe when the engine went out due to a bad PMD. You get less braking power than the parking brake provides. Even the stock setup is crazy (to say the least) since both power steering and brakes are gone almost immediately when the engine cuts out. There are countries that don`t even allow cars to be built like that, i. e., the brake booster is required to have some kind of reservoir providing sufficient boost to stop in such cases. I highly doubt that they would allow electrical vacuum pumps to drive brake boosters --- I`ll have to ask a friend of mine about that.

And what if you happen to tow a trailer and the brake booster goes out? Most trailers here don`t seem to have any brakes at all, no matter how much they weigh ...

I drove my truck without a brake booster for a while. It's not that bad. Requires a lot of pedal pressure but drove it for probably two weeks every day and didn't feel scared to drive it. Probably wouldn't have towed anything... The other thing that shows you is: The power steering pump can fail too...

And I hate to tell you guys this but as scary as it is there are quite a few cars built from the factory with electric vacuum pumps to run the power brakes and I assure you it meets all legal and safety requirements. Its not like if the pump quits you will lose power brakes all of the sudden, there is a vacuum reservoir which supplies vacuum for a little bit after the pump quits. This is a perfectly acceptable and relatively common way of running the brakes. Now trailers of any weight not having brakes... That's different. That's not right. And keep this in mind, most trailer brakes run off an electromagnet. When the magnet is energized it pulls against the brake drum. Friction between the rotating brake drum pulls on the electromagnet which rotates a shaft which engages the brakes. To me that is much scarier than an electric vacuum pumps running power brakes.

First off ever drive a older car that didnt have power brakes? I know that they are two different systems but you get my point. Second I would not pull my 20ft enclosed without trailer brakes I have mine set up so the trailer provides a good share of the stopping power. I have put a lot of thought in to this set up i also put a larger vacuum can in two.

First off ever drive a older car that didnt have power brakes? I know that they are two different systems but you get my point. Second I would not pull my 20ft enclosed without trailer brakes I have mine set up so the trailer provides a good share of the stopping power. I have put a lot of thought in to this set up i also put a larger vacuum can in two.

Oh yeah, my '71 Nova has 4 wheel non-power drums. Fortunately its a light car, but still can be a bit scary....especially on cooler mornings lately when its staying on high idle longer, wants to pull me right thru stop signs. Thank god its a manual and I can downshift it...if it were an auto it'd already have power brakes!:D

I think first I am going to check into a factory setup as Olee mentioned since the Land Cruiser do in fact come in diesel's everywhere except the US. If I don't have any luck that route I think I will probably go with an electric vacuum pump of some sort simply due to the ease of installation. I would probably prefer the hydroboost since it is a stronger system and I am going with slightly larger tires but there will probably be a bit of fabrication involved with that. It seems neither system is foolproof, the vacuum pump relies on an electrical input not failing, and the hydroboost relies on a belt not breaking. Either is pretty unlikely but I would think the electrical input would be less likely to fail than a belt.
I am beginning to figure this engine out a little bit at a time, I found out the steel line I asked about in the original post is the main fuel line from the tank/filter to the lift pump. I don't have a lift pump on the engine so I was confused.
I am now trying to figure out where the oil pressure sensor and water temperature sender are?
I am sure I will have many more questions, thanks for the replies.
Rusty

I drove my truck without a brake booster for a while. It's not that bad. Requires a lot of pedal pressure but drove it for probably two weeks every day and didn't feel scared to drive it.


Maybe the older truck do better without brake booster than the newer ones. The Tahoe won`t have been driveable without the booster.

And you were prepared for it. That makes quite a difference.


Probably wouldn't have towed anything... The other thing that shows you is: The power steering pump can fail too...


Yeah, but somehow, I trust them much more than I would trust an electrical vacuum pump.


Its not like if the pump quits you will lose power brakes all of the sudden, there is a vacuum reservoir which supplies vacuum for a little bit after the pump quits. This is a perfectly acceptable and relatively common way of running the brakes.


That`s how it`s required in Germany. The Tahoe didn`t comply to that, but I guess nobody thought of checking it. The Diesel version was never oficially sold there. There were just a very few people who got one imported.


Now trailers of any weight not having brakes... That's different. That's not right.


Well, I`ve yet to see a trailer here with brakes. I can`t be sure that all of them don`t have any since that`s hard to see like when you encounter them while driving on the highway. But I`ve seen a lot of pretty large ones, some of them with apparently quite a lot of weight on them, that didn`t have brakes.


And keep this in mind, most trailer brakes run off an electromagnet.

Electric brakes are not allowed in Germany, and probably not anywhere in Europe. They use mechanical brakes, and pretty much any trailer that may weigh more than about 1000 pounds does have brakes. The Tahoe was allowed to tow a trailer with a max weight of 450kgs without brakes (imho a pretty reasonable rating), 2700kgs with brakes. Maximum allowed speed when towing is 50mph, the only exception being France, allowing an insane 80mph towing.

To tow any trailer weighing more than 3500kgs, you are required to have air brakes, if you can get a permission for that at all (for a vehicle with a GVWR of less than 7500kgs which would be considered a lorry, and all those have airbrakes anyway).

That`s probably why the idea of boosting brakes with electrical vacuum pumps scares me as well as electrical trailer brakes. Such things are insane :)

Ok, another thing I have noticed. There is a large hose running off of the intake. I have seen pictures of engines with a pretty big round object sitting on top of the passenger side valve cover, what is it?
Also, I am considering removing the valve covers and intake to detail and paint the engine. The valve convers have red silicone around them, is there a problem with the factory gasket that I need to know about. Should I put it back on with silicone or a gasket?
Rusty