Sorry if this is a newb question but I searched the site and all I could find was the info for a duramax. I dont want my 6.5TD eating any of that black gargbage from the exhaust. I have my intake off today to clean, port and polish it, and I want to block off the egr as well. I can make a plate to cover where the actuator was, but what do I do about the computer? will it throw codes? Im already getting a 33, even after I replaced the EGR electronic solenoid. Any info would really be apprietiated. Also, what kind of boost pressure should I expect to see out of this motor, and what is safe?

Guy you need to,at the control panel fill in a signature describing YMM , how the truck is equipped from factory & any mods. If the system is operating as designed you are going to see up to 7/8 lbs on brisk acceleration ,then drop back quickly to 2 / 4. I don't think you will be a happy camper without a PCM reflash & a TURBOMASTER if you're looking for robust performance or even "good" performance. Pre 96 & later mass flow systems are different equasions so check it out. Start with cooling mods unless a 96 or l ater with dual thermostats.

I did the same mod to my 1994 Yukon when I first got it. I took off the intake right away, and cut out all the "excess" metal disrupting the airflow. I then took a thin piece of aluminum and some good metal snips and fabricated a block-off plate. Put the plate on, and just bolted the EGR on top. The plate just looked like a gasket for the EGR when everything was all installed. Never threw any codes on me.

Ok this one is free, but you have to fill in your trucks sig please.

Best thing is to plug the EGR off, here's a link and part number of one way to do it.

NAPA P/N 2193175

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=128751

Ok this one is free, but you have to fill in your trucks sig please.

Best thing is to plug the EGR off, here's a link and part number of one way to do it.

NAPA P/N 2193175

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=128751

Hey 94 blazer Thanks for bringing this back out of the archives

No problem Tim, took a little while to find it but I knew it was in there some where.

I think the best way of doing it is it get a "F" intake. However pluging it like the link above has worked very well for me and others here. As long as your Vac system is working it shouldn't set any codes. To check your Vac system go to the FAQ section for the how to on it.

There is one side note you need to know. Depending on where you live and the laws in place there it could be a big NO NO to do this. Now you know the warning so it's up to you to decide.

Since I gave out the P/N does that mean I'm a accomplice?????;)

Actually it's a no no period as Federal law mandates the EGR stuff to be there, just cause the state you are in does not check it does not make it any more legal when you remove it, be warned

sorry guys, forgot to add what the truck is. I will put it in my signature, but I will include it here as well. Its a 95 GMC sierra 1500 4x4, 6.5TD, 4L80E, 292,000 KM, already replaced the fuel pickup, lift pump, lift pump lines,OPS, wired in a relay off the OPS for the new lift pump, new PMD on a cooler mounted to the firewall with an electric fan away from the motor, new 4l80e just last week. Truck started acting up last night, threw a whole slew of codes, some of wich being 31,32,33. all of wich are EGR related. Im hoping after i cut the ribbing out of the intake and block off the egr actuator it wont throw them anymore. It has been hard starting the last few days, and I know there is an air leak in one of my fuel lines, (wich I am fixing today) anyways, I had to put my foot to the floor when it was cranking to get it to start, thats when it started throwing all these codes. I got, engine coolant high, pump cam reference error, egr high vacuum, egr circut error, egr control pressure(baro sensor circut high), injection pulse width error, (both short and long) fuel temp high, PCM fuel circut error, PCM 5v shorted, and turbo boost sensor circut high. Is all this because I had my foot on the floor when she fired up?? it also sounded a lot more "clacky" than usual, and wouldnt rev past 3000, I think it went into a safe mode. I just cleared the codes and am going to take it for another drive after I fix my fuel line leak. Any advice would be greatly apprietiated. Also, can these motors hold 10psi of boost with no problems? My next upgrades are a 4" exhaust, intercooler, and a boost controller. Im not looking for speed, or duramax type power, but I would like more than I have, if I can get it safely.

Plenty capable of 10 boost if engine is healthy sounds like with that many codes you have a gnd issue, also possibly vac pump went belly up, read up about it in reference sticky.

Start another thread for each issue hard to work multiple problems in one thread, use search possibly it has been covered before, word on search site is doing some upgrading so you may need assistance of one of the guys to finds what you are after, first go thru the diagnostics list answer as much as you can, troubleshooting info for each area probably in the reference material for you to get basics of the problem 1st, and so you can understand what we are talking about when we make a suggestion of where to go next.

With all thoes codes, had to say whats wrong, clean/repair all grounds first then erase the codes, and see what comes back, then start from there

Thanks guys! Im gonna start chasing ground wires tomorrow, Im thinkin that is the problem. my heater will intermittenly not work too, but during normal driving it will just come back on. But I dont lose my stereo or wipers or anything, seems to just be the heater. But Im thinkin its a ground issue as well. I will let you guys know what I find! Thanks again

You could replace factory S prom with one from an F. I used part #16244781. Those chip cost me about 45 buck each. Make all EGR stuff go bye bye. That will only address the EGR codes. Just my 2 cents... About all its worth.

could I get a PCM from a F style intake truck, block all my egr stuff off, and run the new PCM and theoretically not have a problem?

Ok, Took the upper intake off last weekend, cleaned it, removed the BS extra aluminum that restricts the intake, cleaned the lower...Now.. I saw a thread where one guy bought a frost plug and it "accidentally" fell down the hole to plug it, to stop the motor from re-breathing the exhaust. I was going to do the same, but bought the wrong size plug.. stepped back and looked at it.. If you just remove the vacuum line from the EGR actuator, its closed. There is no way the exhaust can push past the heavy spring on it, so why make a plate or jam a frost plug in the hole when you can just undo the vacuuum line and plug it??

Works on OBD-I with dumb systems, OBD-II is "smart" and monitors EGR position via feeback of changes to vacuum supplied via firewall baro sensor, plugging those deadheads the vac and baro "knows" there is supposed to be a change. A weak EGR valve spring can also be lifted on WOT, OBD-I or OBD-II

ok, I have a question then. Mines a 95 (OBDI) with 2 EGR solenoids, and a baro sensor. Ive always gotten codes 31,32,33 wich are all EGR. Even after I blocked the EGR I still get the engine light on under normal driving, but goes off when I floor it, for a while anyway. Why does OBDI monitor EGR?

One of them is probably bad, they still have to be electrically operable even with the vac to the actual valve plugged, or get a F chip which doesn't have EGR and it doesn't look for EGR

Well, cleaned up all the grounds, put on a 3.5" exhaust, metal intake tube, fixed my fuel lines, took the excess metal out of the upper intake, cleaned the lower...truck was running great for about a week. Then started doing it all over again... I am really thinking the PCM is fried. I cant even put an empty trailer on the truck without it throwing an over boost code... Anyone know what computer I should be looking for to replace mine with??

I doubt the computer is fried, have you checked your boost sensor, also solenoid connectors are notorious for bad connectors with age, also nyon lines are known to crack & leak.

Its not just the EGR that is the problem.Im getting over 15 codes everytime the check engine light comes on. There is no way it can possibly have all the problems the computer is storing. Like injector pulse lenght too short, and too long, and fuel too hot, or vacuum too high, and too low... its a serious computer problem.

Ok, so everytime I retrieve the codes, reset it, check it to make sure its clear, start it back up, it gives me codes 18,35,36,54 (pump cam reference error, injection pulse width error-time too short, injection pluse width error-time too long, and PCM fuel circut error. If its not a PCM problem, have any ideas?