I have a few questions on installation of the Astrostart 2205 for my 2004 Duramax Crew Cab (lb7). I was unable to purchase the unit from Maxpower because he is out of the business for awhile. I do have instructions but have a few questions. I thought it would be good to post since others may have some of the same ones.. Thanks in advance for your reply.

The P2 number 7 terminal "antitheft out" (-) ORG wire-
What does this hook up to on the truck? Is it supposed to hook to the Disarm LtGreen wire in the drivers door?

The P2 number 6 Terminal "Ground When Running Out"(-) Green wire- What wire does this hook up to the truck?

The P4 number 1 Terminal "+12V IN" RED/BLK wire- I am assuming that this hooks up to the Red Battery wire on the truck that is hot all the time? I just want to double check to make sure it is not supposed to be hooked up to an accessory or ignition wire that is hot only when the key is turned.

The P4 number 7 Terminal "+12V IN" RED wire- Like the above I am assuming that this hooks up to the Red Battery wire on the truck that is hot all the time? I just want to double check to make sure it is not supposed to be hooked up to an accessory or ignition wire that is hot only when the key is turned.

The P4 number 6 Terminal "Starter Cut In" LT Blue Wire- What wire does this hook up to the truck?

do you have any interface modules like an IOM GMC6 or of that sort?
you don't need the antitheft out wire
you are right about the red and red/black wire from the main harness they connect to battery power.
the light blue hooks up to the switch side of the starter wire if you want the antigrind and starter kill feature then you would cut the starter wire and hook the dark blue the other side of the starter wire.

The P2 number 7 terminal "antitheft out" (-) ORG wire-
What does this hook up to on the truck? Is it supposed to hook to the Disarm LtGreen wire in the drivers door?

The P2 number 6 Terminal "Ground When Running Out"(-) Green wire- What wire does this hook up to the truck?

The P4 number 1 Terminal "+12V IN" RED/BLK wire- I am assuming that this hooks up to the Red Battery wire on the truck that is hot all the time? I just want to double check to make sure it is not supposed to be hooked up to an accessory or ignition wire that is hot only when the key is turned.

The P4 number 7 Terminal "+12V IN" RED wire- Like the above I am assuming that this hooks up to the Red Battery wire on the truck that is hot all the time? I just want to double check to make sure it is not supposed to be hooked up to an accessory or ignition wire that is hot only when the key is turned.

The P4 number 6 Terminal "Starter Cut In" LT Blue Wire- What wire does this hook up to the truck?


The orange wire goes to the input side of a starter kill relay. That's to disable the starter when the alarm is armed. You can go without it, but you need a relay harness and relay.

The ground when running will go to your PASSLOCK II module

The 2 12V in wires can go to the orange 12ga. wires under the steering column, at the same place you get start, ignition, and tie in your passlock module.

The starter cut in is different than the alarms I've installed and carry, but it sounds like the alarm has a built-in starter kill. If that's the case, it should have a starter cut out, which would probably go to the starter side of the cut starter wire.

What bypass kit are you using? Without one, you are going nowhere. The two reds on the P4 are hooked up to +12v. You don't need the light blue starter kill as your truck already has anti-grind feature. The green wire GWR (ground when running) is hooked up to the bypass kit. You also don't need the anti-theft orange.
Make sure you hook up the second igntion wire (white under the steering column) using the P5 connector. You don't need to hook up the second accessory wire (brown). Are you using one of the programmable outputs to drive the parking lights? It's so much easier.

What instructions do you have? Hopefully they have pictures and not just wire colours. Just in case your wondering, I install hundreds of these a year. PM me if you have any other issues.

Saskpuller-Thanks for the info. I actually have the IOM-GMC-3 bypass unit. The instuctions I have are OK, but not really good. Then to make matters worse I went for a test drive after install and I think the darn things flew out the window so I am pretty frustrated.
I hooked up my bypass unit wires like the instructions said- Purple to the diagnostic Connector, white to the dome light and orange to the ignition wire.. Now I did not cut the brown wire for the trunk function because I eventually want to use that for high idle. (thats another story). I also did not cut the white/blue parking light input wire so they are being controlled throught the bypass too..
So I get everything hooked up and all seems ok. The starter works, the doors unlock and lock through the remote, it waits for the glow plugs, the dome, parking lights, brake shutdown and hood switch all works..

The problem is when I start it with the remote starter and it is running, the ABS Light Stays Lit and the Parking Brake Light Stays Lit and my message center displays "Service 4 Wheel Drive" on it. Now when I put my keys in and turn them forward the parking brake light and ABS Light go off. The service 4 Wheel Drive Light stays on until I scroll through the menu and then it doesn't come back again when I am driving it.. I am assuming that this is not normal? If so wouldn't my computer be storing trouble codes every time I use the starter?
The one thing that I thought of is that there are Two Accesory wires and two ignition wires under the steering column. Do I need something tied into each one? Right now I am only tapped into one ignition wire (pink One). Should I also have something hooked up to the 2nd (white) ignition wire? Your message suggests that I should. The P5 connector is the internal relay. Should I tie in 12V+ to it and then attach it to the white igintion wire? Then maybe set that output to be "on when engine is running" Any help would be greatly appreciated! (and if you have a copy of the guide that lists out the programming that I lost out the window that would be awesome) Please PM me if you can..

You'll need the second ignition wire powered up.

You'll need the second ignition wire powered up.
I went ahead and applied 12 V to the second ignition wire and sure enough the trouble lights went off! I also spent a significant amount of time walking down the road looking for that damn programming manual. I need to program the P5 output relay to apply 12 V when the engine is running. I will call where I bought it tomorrow and have them fax them or mail me another one. You would think that Astra would just have them online like the user manual but that would be too easy.

Now the next thing (and last) is I want to get my high idle to work with the remote. I currently have an 04 with the LB7 motor. To add high idle I had to add an on/off switch to the dash and then run a 12V source from it to a pin in the ECM (don't remember which one) Then to turn on the high idle I have to flip on that switch sending 12 V to the ECM and then push my Cruise control set button or resume (sliding) button to get it to go. The set button revs it up to around 1200 RPM's and then hitting the Resume button bumps it up to 1700. I don't really need to cycle it up to 1700 so if I could get it to kick up to 1200 RPM's that would be fine.. The one problem with this set up is if you forget to shut the 12 V switch that is wired to the ECM off and you drive it the engine will cut out.

I was thinking about tieing the Trunk output Button to send a pulse to the cruise set wire to get it to go. The only problem is that darn 12 Volts that needs to go to the ECM. I would rather not have that on a switch on the dash. How do I wire that so it has 12 Volts continuos when idling and then kills the 12 Volts when I drive it? Is there a park switch or something I can tie into? Any ideas? Someone out there must of done this before.. I did a search and found a couple of posts but none of them address this 12 Volts to the ECM causing the engine cut out.. Thanks in advance for the help!! Regards CL

CLCL, you'll find answers to your questions all over this forum but not in one, simple, consolidated easy to access and read source. I'm in the midst of doing the same thing and SASKPULLER has helped me out a ton...but I'm still a little lost when it comes to "do this, then do this, then do this." One of these days SASK or MAX will put together a complete Keep It Simple and Stupid manual for those of us doing type of thing - I'd be willing to pay $100 for one that was easy to follow. Until then, good luck as you're on the best board in the world to figure it out.

DO NOT CHANGE THE P5 OUTPUT! It comes from the factory defaulted as ignition and that is what you want it set to. Good thing you caught that second ignition sooner than later as tranny damage can occur. Incidently you can download a install manual from the astrostart website. This will give the programming settings but won't help at all with your vehicle. Astro doesn't want just "anyone" installing these, having problems and then having a ton of phone calls coming to their tech lines. That is what this forum is for( I think). If you have a digital camera, take a couple pictures of your install and e-mail(pm) to me. I'll take a look and see if anything looks out of place. Sounds to me like you've got it now.

Max and myself have done some talking about putting a comprehensive install manual/video on this but haven't got things ironed out yet. Starter season is coming so I guess we should hurry up?

I'll be your first customer! And willing to pay big. Messing with a $30,000+ truck is nothing you want to scrimp on...