Does any one know the proper adjustment procedure for the Emergency Brake.
Mine goes all the way to the floor without holding the truck very well.:(
If any one has pictures that would be even better :)

Thx Diesel Dragon :cool:

ditto, mine sucks A$$.....

I have a 02 tahoe, rear disc. pulled the calipers, then the rotors gave me access to the mini brake shoes underneath the rotors, there was the same jack bolt self adjuster as on the the GM rear brake drum system. I clean everthing adjust the jack bolt out, then replaced the rotor to check the drag. then put things back together. Works like new now. I guess they should self adjust but mine never did -:t . By the way we have a 05 CC chevy long bed LT, my wife calls the buss, Its my baby.:ro)

Is there any type of adjuster where the one cable from the pedal splits into two cables to go to each wheel?

DO NOT mess with cable adjust until you're sure the E-brake shoes are adjusted properly. This overrides the adjuster and could result in burning the E-brake shoes as they're sorta small. Once E shoes are set properly then you can adjust cable if too much slack is still in it

http://dieselplace.com/forum/showth...emergency+brake

link doesnt work

Sorry. Try this one out.

Parking Brake Adjustment (http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2775&highlight=parking+brake)

Chevrolet has used this type parking brake system for years on the corvette (ie-drum inside a rotor) due to the use of multi piston calipers. Works miserably for the vette -:t , so what does GM do? "hey, lets put it on our trucks" (must be a patent rights thing).

Anyhow, here's how i've done it succesfully for years (without any special tools);

* Rear wheels in the air - *jack stands under axle (weight of vehicle should be on the axles so proper cable length is maintained) - *vehicle in neutral - *loosen parking brake cable until slack - *remove rear wheels & rotors - *adjust 1 side rear shoe set by turning the adjuster up slightly while re-installing the rotor to check for drag, once some drag is felt, back off adjuster slightly to a point just before drag occurs - * again remove rotor from recently adjusted side, then follow identical adjusting procedure for opposite side - * once both sides are adjusted, install both rotors & wheels.

- you will now have completed the primary parking brake adjustment & it is now time to remove the slack from the parking brake cable -

* with the rear wheels installed, the vehicle in neutral & still supported on the stands, adjust the cable to remove slack while spinning the rear wheels occasionally to check for drag, as soon as drag is felt, stop - * back off cable adjuster slightly until no drag detected - * proceed to cab, apply & release parking brake several times - *re-check adjustment on cable by tightening again until drag is felt & again backing off until no drag on rear wheels is present (no drag must be felt at the rear wheels) - * remove vehicle from stands & test

Your parking brake should function fine now :D

(remember, you must set your brake shoe clearance before any adjustment to the cable can be made)

ps - this is generally the correct method for adjusting most drum type parking brake assemblies (though rarely followed), however, with drum-in-rotor types, it is critically important to follow this procedure for proper operation.

I can't see how the e-brake shoes could get out of adjustment unless you drove with it on. Since they are different shoes from the ones stopping the vehicle, how do they wear to get out of adjustment?

Almost everybody I know at some point or another goes from park to drive (or reverse) with the parking brake accidently engaged. And even if it is just momentary &/or very infrequent, it is not how the parking brake in this type of set-up (drum-in-rotor) was designed to operate. This is a static, not a dynamic system & does not tolerate motion well (it wasn't designed for that) & even minimal rotating forces can have an adverse effect on adjustment. This coupled with the ability of the cable to stretch over time in it's normal use, dicates that prudence be observed when dealing with it's adjustment & that proper procedures be followed.

Have a nice day :D

I've NEVER set my parking brake except to check the adjustment, now it is totally useless at 80,000 miles. This looks almost exactly like the e-brake system used of the Ford trucks which I have worked on. Out of the 15 F-450's we have at work, NONE have come out of adjustment. Some of these trucks are over 200,000 miles. Pretty sure this is a Bendix brake set up. I'd be inclined to say GM has a problem in their design from the backing plate to the cab. Talked to service manager about this, he said more than likely I would find that the shoes are shot. He said they sometimes "just wear out" all by themselves. Personally I have a lot of confidence in the dual hydraulic braking system and don't really care if I even have an "emergency" brake.

The only time I've used an e-brake was for "bootlegger's turns", and I don't think I'll be doing any of those with a $40,000 11,000lb truck any time soon!

It is a Parking Brake not an "emergency" brake.

If you were to take a driving/road test to recieve your drivers license (in most states) & failed to apply it when you parked you would not recieve a license.

If you fail to periodically apply your parking brake (80,000mi?) your cables will surely seize up (rust) & the system will cease to operate, or worse yet, will operate & then not dis-engage.

Functioning "Parking" brake systems are required by Federal law on ALL passenger vehicles (which includes the light trucks listed on the forum here). Although CT no longer requires mandatory saftey inspections for light trucks (under 18,000lb GVRW) you will recieve a summons at a "road check" for a faulty brake system if it does not operate properly (hey, it's a saftey device, so if it's there it must be functional).
In states that do require inspection, you will fail & be required to return to an inspection facility & demonstrate proof of repair, or suffer penalty of law.

This is a GM brake system, Bendix is simply a manufacturer/supplier (& probably the lowest bidder), GM engineers design the vehicle & tailor the brake system to meet it's needs according to safety guidelines, they send their specs to Bendix (& others) to get bids, then (usually) the low bidder produces the system. Bendix may develop a better component or two, but that's about it (in recent years anyway). A particular system is refered to as a "Bendix type system" simply because it is Bendix who was the primary producer of its parts. After all, it was Renault (a car manufacturer) who invented the drum brake system, Sperry (another car manufacturer-at the time) who invented the disc brake system, the aircraft industy developed anti-lock brakes, so tell me, were does Bendix really come into the picture? Then what about Kelsey-Hayes, Delco Moraine, etc, etc...

I have been an ASE Master Auto Tech for almost 20yrs, I am also ASE certified in; L1 (advanced engine-gas), L2 (electronic engine-diesel), T2 (diesel engines), & Service Consultant. It upsets me to see someone who is claiming to be another professional, especially a Master certified one, respond so poorly to a post seeking advice. I only hope that this is not the way you treat everyone who comes to you seeking help, as it would surely tarnish the image of the rest of us, who strive everyday to be professional in an industry already poorly percieved by the public.

Sorry for the rant folks, just had to get that one of my chest. :o

I hate to bring back an old thread, but I need an answer to where this is....

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1. Verify that the self adjuster lock-out pin has be removed.
2. Fully apply and release the park brake pedal 3 times. :confused:

I know this is an old thread but!! I just changed the fluids in the 05 D/A and while I was at it I changed the fluids in the wifes 01 Tahoe. Funny how the only time I use the E-brake is when I put a floor jack under a vehicle. To Make a long story short ( would be really long if I voiced my opion on why you can't just fill the diff until it runs out the hole... Stupid design where the fill plug is located For sure... Anyway I noticed the Tahoe E-brake was going to the floor and decided to investagate why. After using the wonder search feature on this site here I am. Question is What the hell size bolt is holding the calipers on the 01 Tahoe? I tryed 5/8 9/16 15mm 17mm etc and the only one that fit was metric and semed to loose in my opion. So I just put it back together to tackle another day. I'm I just getting old or is this some GM concocked special tool fandango? any advice on the correct socket to use for this caliper bolt would be appreciated.

Grizwald

18mm If anybody is interested. Won't come in a standard craftsmen set bought from Sears. They go 14 15 17 19. I had to buy it seperate.

Grizwald