I have a problem with my 96 6.5 in that it will start quickly every time but if it has not been started and ran the day before it will start missing and stall. It will start afterwards if I cut the key off let it warm the glow plugs again but will run rough for a couple minutes then will run good the rest of the day. after the initial startup it will start good the rest of the day. If i dontl run it for a couple of days it will do the same thing but it seems to be better if I drive the truck every day. I have replaced the fuel driver [again] but it did not cure the problem. I have been reading on here of other peoples problems but none exactly like this one. Does anyone have a idea of what it is. Thanks Jerry

What glow plugs are you using in it? The newest GM 60G glows seem to need a longer glow than the older ones. We are seeing more posts every day since the temperature has been getting colder. Please fill out your signiture also as it will help us help you. :cool:

http://dieselplace.com/forum/profile.php?do=editsignature

I am new to this site, I dont know what you need or what a signature is??? Please let me know

The glow plugs are the stock ones that came in the engine. I have not changed them. The truck starts good when cold, it just cuts off a few seconds after it starts. I just need to know the best advice on where to check first. Like the ops, the lift pump etc.

It started this deal during the hot weather ;; now it may get worse as it gets colder but it has not been cool here yet.

I have a problem with my 96 6.5 in that it will start quickly every time but if it has not been started and ran the day before it will start missing and stall. It will start afterwards if I cut the key off let it warm the glow plugs again but will run rough for a couple minutes then will run good the rest of the day. after the initial startup it will start good the rest of the day. If i dontl run it for a couple of days it will do the same thing but it seems to be better if I drive the truck every day. I have replaced the fuel driver [again] but it did not cure the problem. I have been reading on here of other peoples problems but none exactly like this one. Does anyone have a idea of what it is. Thanks Jerry


Jerry,
Yours is not an uncommon problem. I had it happen to me.
To begin with, please fill out the "signature area of your user CP with the data on your truck. Look at others for examples. It will hep everyone help you.

When I had your problem it turned out to be a combination of a bad fuel tank cap and a dead lift pump.

The fuel tank was building too much vacuum and overnight it would pull a lot of vacuum on the fuel system. Since the electric lift pump was not running, after starting, the engine would quit. It took a while each morning for the injection pump to suck a steady supply of fuel up for steady running.

Look in the FAQ's for lift pump OPS.

In the mean time, Check your lift pump with engine running., You can do that by finding the drain line in the front of the engine that comes off the T valve next to the thermostat housing. With the engine running you should get a stream of fule out of that line after a couple seconds. No fuel means lift pump is not running. Then tonight when you park the truck open the fuel cap to release any vacuumbefore you shut down. If there is too much vacuum, releasing it should help it stay running in the morning.

Let us know how it goes,

Also, if fuel doesn't come out of the line after a few seconds the truck will stumble and cutoff if the lift pump is bad.

Also, if fuel doesn't come out of the line after a few seconds the truck will stumble and cutoff if the lift pump is bad.


Thanks;
will check it tomorrow morning. OH, when the truck finally starts it will smoke more than usual.

Jerry,
Yours is not an uncommon problem. I had it happen to me.
To begin with, please fill out the "signature area of your user CP with the data on your truck. Look at others for examples. It will hep everyone help you.

When I had your problem it turned out to be a combination of a bad fuel tank cap and a dead lift pump.

The fuel tank was building too much vacuum and overnight it would pull a lot of vacuum on the fuel system. Since the electric lift pump was not running, after starting, the engine would quit. It took a while each morning for the injection pump to suck a steady supply of fuel up for steady running.

Look in the FAQ's for lift pump OPS.

In the mean time, Check your lift pump with engine running., You can do that by finding the drain line in the front of the engine that comes off the T valve next to the thermostat housing. With the engine running you should get a stream of fule out of that line after a couple seconds. No fuel means lift pump is not running. Then tonight when you park the truck open the fuel cap to release any vacuumbefore you shut down. If there is too much vacuum, releasing it should help it stay running in the morning.

Let us know how it goes,


Thanks; I will check tomorrow morning to see if the lift pump works and also check the deal with the ops. I have a feeling that you have helped me already. Thanks again. Jerry

Well I checked the lift pump and I have fuel coming out of the t valve while the engine is idling. I did open the fuel cap and It had a lot of vaccum on the tank, so I will replace the fuel tank cap as that may be the deal because I have not ran that truck for a couple days and it did not cut off this morning when I started it. Thanks to all for your help.

Just a quick note - I have made it a habit to replace, air and fuel filters, lift pump, OPS and temp sensor every year. I figure the less work the injection pump has to do, the longer it will last. I started this routine 4 years ago, when I replaced both head gaskets, all 8 injectors and remote mounted the PMD in the front bumper. My burb has run flawlessly ever since. Good luck!

The trick to the 6.5 diesel is knowing and respecting its limitations. I rarely use my burb for towing, and when I do, I tow maybe 3000 lbs max. If you want to tow reliably, buy a 454. Remote mounting the PMD out of the engine compartment is key, as well as replacing the original injectors, OPS and lift pump. Also, once the vacuum actuated turbo wastegate goes out, just replace it with a spring.

In the beginning, I hated the 6.5, but now that I have owned a couple and understand their limitations, the 6.5 is one of my favorite engines. I would challenge anyone to find another diesel engine which has such inexpensive and plentiful parts. Less than $300 for an entire set of injectors? That is ridiculously cheap! The parts prices are nearly on a par with air cooled VW parts prices.

The trick to the 6.5 diesel is knowing and respecting its limitations. I rarely use my burb for towing, and when I do, I tow maybe 3000 lbs max. If you want to tow reliably, buy a 454.

or do a few mods to the 6.5 using the money saved in the 454s higher operating cost,