Just got my oil analysis back. As stated in the title, oil is AmsOil 15/40 with AmsOil EaO filter. 19,375 on the truck, 9300 (+/-) on the oil.

Iron 10
Chromium 0
Lead 1
Copper 11
Tin 0
Aluminum 5
Nickel 0
Silver 0
Silicon 16
Boron 1
Sodium 0
Magnesium 65
Calcium 3628
Barium 0
Phosphorus 1212
Zinc 1418
Moly 0
Titanium 0
Vandium 0
Potasium 0
Fuel (% vol) <1
Water 0
Soot/ Solids (% wt) 0.1
Coolant NO
TBN 6.41
Oxid 6.0
Nitr 8.0
F-Soot o.01

Comparing to others I have looked at here, I'd say this looks pretty good, but interested in any feedback from the experts.

Comments say oil is suitable for continued use. I did change it and will probably continue to change o/a 10k, just for peace of mind. It's good to know the oil and filter are doing their jobs.

Looks very good.:)

I'm surprised the TBN is so low on a syn. With a dino mine was at 9 @ almost 10K, but maybe your labs scale is different then Blackstones...

Looks very good.:)

Thanks. I thought so too. The silicon looks a little high to me; then again I changed the air filter @ 18k. Will try changing it earlier next time.

As dozerboy said, the tbn is a bit low for an oil that is supposed to last 25,000 miles. Not too worried about it, as I plan to continue changing @ 10k.

I should add, the truck started using a bit of oil after 5k miles on the oil. Ended up adding a total of 2 qts before changing.

I would like to know what kind of numbers would you see if you were using the bypass filtration system with the same miles and would they really matter in the real world? Heath, feel free to chime in.
What is TBN? and what #'s will typically go up causing you to need a change? My brain hurts with this decision of going with the bypass vs the eao and 15k-25k changes. I need more data!!!
:duh:

Thats good news. I changed 2 of our diesels over to amsoil and eao filters abut a month ago. Thanks for the post
Ron

I would like to know what kind of numbers would you see if you were using the bypass filtration system with the same miles and would they really matter in the real world? Heath, feel free to chime in.
What is TBN? and what #'s will typically go up causing you to need a change? My brain hurts with this decision of going with the bypass vs the eao and 15k-25k changes. I need more data!!!
:duh:

With the bypass, all you are doing is removing insoluble materials that are too small for the full flow filter to pick up. Typical filters get around 20-25 microns size(average). The Ea full flows are 98.7% at 15, so it is working a bit better than the average filter and with the nanofiber techology, it has a larger holding capacity, which allows it to go longer.
Many particles are in the 5-20 micron range which many filters can not touch. Here you rely on the 'suspendability" of the oil to keep it from congregating.
With the bypass you get 98.7% at 2 microns and 39% at 1 micron, which most, not all, soot will fall in. So the bypass is just keeping it cleaner longer.
The life of the oil is also determined by base stock stamina, which most synthetics will last forever, and additive depletion.
Here is where TBN fits in. TBN, or total base number, designates how much acid fighting ability an oil has. Over time this number decreases. Once it's down to around 2, it's time to change it.
Theoretically, the TBN should fall at the same rate, whether dino or syn, as long as they started at the same, in the same engine that is. Each engine will be different.
So with a synthetic and bypass, your oil stays clean and it doesn't break down, your additives just fall. When you add back 3 qt with a change of filters, you are replenishing some of that to give it more life. Eventually it will catch up, but as you've read, that can be many miles.
And keeping those sub-micron particles out will decrease wear over time and prolong the life of the engine.
If you plan on trading or changing vehicles often enough and longevity isn't really a concern, then maybe the bypass isn't necessary. I'd do it just because I like to know I've got analytically clean oil in that engine.
Just going with the Ea full flow filter is a fine option as well.
More confused now? My fingers are sore:)
Heath

Agreed TBN # is low for a supposed "superior oil". I'll stick with Delo 400

Forgot to mention that the bypass also increases sump capacity by about 30%, so it increases cooling capacity as well.
Should clarify a little on the TBN drop. It also depends on the additive used. Not sure why that TBN would drop faster, but would venture to guess if oils where switched, it would drop just as fast. Each engine is different.

Thank you, that clarifys a lot! I guess its coming up with the money now.

Thanks. I thought so too. The silicon looks a little high to me; then again I changed the air filter @ 18k. Will try changing it earlier next time.

What air filter are you using? Changing an air filter more often will NOT give you better results (Unless you are using oiled foam). If you are using any dry media filter, the dirtier the better. Filters begin to filter more and more small particles as they load. Changing it too often means MORE dirt will pass to the oil! SPICER

Thanks. I thought so too. The silicon looks a little high to me; then again I changed the air filter @ 18k. Will try changing it earlier next time.

What air filter are you using? Changing an air filter more often will NOT give you better results (Unless you are using oiled foam). If you are using any dry media filter, the dirtier the better. Filters begin to filter more and more small particles as they load. Changing it too often means MORE dirt will pass to the oil! SPICER

I have the factory filter and intake. I know 16 ppm is still considered within normal limits, however I have seen others with single digit silicon levels. I would like it to be as low as possible, but not sure what else I could do...

I'm running Amsoil CJ-4 with Eao-52....and Eao100 bypass..

These are my results...I currently have 15000 miles since last change and will run it to 20000 before my next oil analysis..

You guys figure it out...and tell me what this all means...I see that they said my copper is really high...click the pic a few times to make it half-assed readable;)

Also changed my air filter today, bought from Amsoil and it's a Donaldson




http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/1183/amsoil2ti6.jpg (http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/1183/amsoil2ti6.jpg)
(Image has been resized. Click it for full size.)

(Image has been resized. Click it for full size.)

(Image has been resized. Click it for full size.)

That's great! Good to see the oil is going to last longer than the OEM intervals. Copper going high early is common but will start to fall.
Nice results.

That's great! Good to see the oil is going to last longer than the OEM intervals. Copper going high early is common but will start to fall.
Nice results.

Copper going high early....I have 55000 miles on the thing:D

So why now and not before.....??? Hows the rest of it looking....need an expert here:D

The rest looks good.
If only the copper is high, but no other metals such as lead, tin, or aluminum are elevated, it is mostly an oxide of copper from the oil cooler. As the oil cooler is exposed to the heat from the engine oil, it can sometimes oxidize the copper, which will show up in the analysis report. This is considered a normal condition and no corrective action is required. This process usually will taper off or stop occurring over time.
It's usually seen in newer engines or sometimes when additives are introduced or the changing of oil brands.
No worries:)

Thankyou Heath

I should add, the truck started using a bit of oil after 5k miles on the oil. Ended up adding a total of 2 qts before changing.

Thats odd??? With over 200k using the same and changing @ 18-20k would only use 1/2-3/4 of a quart. I would not even really have to add any.

So why did he use 2 qts of oil? Sounds like alot.

Anybody know if these filters are available for motorcycles?????

The Ea full flow filters are for some bikes. They make about nine of them. You can go to the powersports section and look up your bike. They also have air filters.
http://www.amsoil.com/powersports/index.aspx

So why did he use 2 qts of oil? Sounds like alot.

I have read a number of threads from other folks here with similar results, which makes me think it is not uncommon. Some have said theirs started using oil about the time the DIC read 50% oil life, which is about when mine did. Did not use a drop in the first 5k on the oil; next time I checked it was about 8k on the oil and it was roughly a quart down. After that I was pretty fanatic about checking it and, as a result kept it always completely topped off. jk

Anybody know if these filters are available for motorcycles?????

Yep, I picked one up for my friends Honda VTX...

the certainly are.

Thanks Heath, Dutch, and 14. I appreciate the responses!!:D

They don't list my bike which surprises me because I thought most modern suzukis take the same filter.:(

I honestly haven't looked that the vaious models they are made for but I do know that Harley's and the big Goldwing type bikes were the main focus.
I'm sure there will be more to come??:)

So why did he use 2 qts of oil? Sounds like alot.

IIRC GM thinks a lot is adding 1qt every 500 miles. I normal only use oil when I drive a long ways or drive hard but the last 4K mile trip I made I didn't use any oil.:D