Over the course of this past year, I have come to be aquinted with the finer workin's of the 6.5. Mostly in part due to the fact I was handed a problem child for a power plant, all unknowingly, at the time of sale. Thanks to forums like these, you have given tremendous knowledge to the average workin' joe to help keep this mysterious thing called "Diesel" become more understandable, and servicable.


I'm am very impressed with the overall knowledge housed within this forum, however, most of it seems to be geared more to the Power end of the world. As I'm still learning all of the finer points of this engine, I'd like to entertain another thinkin' here to help gain a little bit of insight. My concern is more geared toward longevity. One the reasons that I purchased a diesel powered vehicle was due to having a longer life of it's gasoline counterparts.


I love to have more power, but not at the expense of it's overall life expectancy. This is my family vehicle here, of which my dear wifey has to climb behind the wheel of, with my children strapped in behind her. Trails of smoke and oil with a dead vehicle on the side of the road is not a fortune which I wish to acquire here. Zero to sixty is going to be the last thing I'm thinkin' if this bugger ends up on blocks in my yard.


So with optical bumps, new timings, reflashes, and the like, which of these upgrades will net out just power at the expense of the engine, or do you benefit on both ends?

As in all things in life even though you can have a lot of power it's a matter of how and when you use it, most of what you see here will add life to your engine but abuse it and you will shorten it's longevity. I didn't build mine up for 0-60, in that area my truck is a true sleeper, I drive it as one would drive any vehicle, if I need it the extra power is there, I really only tap into it when towing which is what I bought this Diesel for.


Many folks forget a Diesel really isn't intended for hitting it hard racing, even though they can be built for it one will pay for it quite handsomely. All of my approach was really to add longevity, at same time benefit of more power came with it. GM could have done the same things we have done but the need to go to market now with a viable turbo engine gives us the stock 6.5, a decent engine needing a bit more finishing out. You can dump in an extra $5K or less depending how far you want to take it incrementally as you can afford it; or just go buy a DMAX, Stroke, or Cummins and pay for it from the get go at risk of heart attack from sticker shock.


I think a 6.5 is a great entry level Diesel, sites like this one where we can share and commiserate successes and failures add to positive experience. It's a shame though that the big 3 don't participate with us as all of them have their quirks, they really could build a great product if they would use these forums as a tool to better their products, rather than fight us at every turn or new idea of how to improve on what they started with.


Too many lawyers, and too many folks willing to put them to use to sue everyone at drop of a hat. We don't really need Tort reform, just need to stop being so greedy looking for somebody to blame when we screw up.


Sorry I drifted off topic, my formula for longevity, exhaust, H/O H20 if you don't have it from GM, FSD remote cooler, oil bypass filtration, oil cooler lines, deep trans pan and extra cooling, frame mounted fuel filter pre lift pump, periodic oil sampling. GAGES BEFORE DOING ANYTHING ELSE that alters boost or fuel delivery or fools PCM from operating per GM design. Then and only then boost adders/foolers limited to 10psi max boost, IC or WMI, TDC offset/optic bumps, reflash/chip, injectors, 18:1 & timing gears. The order could be shifted somewhat , but I can't emphasize enough importance of gages. My 1st mod was a Banks Stinger kit, they included the gages as part of that kit for a reason, Banks folks have way more know how than I'll ever have on Diesels any flavor you choose, they have been around a long time, must be doing something right.


Spend some time at their site they pretty much lay out mods in close similar order to my experiences and others here on the forum.

H/O H20, I missed what that stands for... high output water?

yes 97+ GM uprated to dual thermosats & 130 gpm waterpump, that reminds me another longevity mod I added was Kennedy's fan clutch that kicks in earlier than factory keeps things cooler Edited by: Turbine Doc

As Tim sez, it's not the power upgrades, per se, that reduce engine longevity - it is the loose nut behind the steering wheel, frequently succumbing to 'happy foot' syndrome.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gif


More power RULES ! ! ! ! !


'Use the Force wisely, Luke Skywalker.'





edited for politically correct content


Edited by: gmctd

Kreb,


This is how I understand it.


When you build an engine for performance, ie The 599 cast, 18:1 pistons,h/o h2o, splayed mains, timing gearsets, IC, better matched turbo( Has anyone read how peninsular diesel works their high flow 6.5L heads?) and balance and blueprint it, It's by default a more capable engine than your stock motor. Diesels performance is diesel longevity. One member recently deceided to do the above to insure the original block made 300,000 and I think he's on target.





Performance encompasses all aspects of operation and drivability of the entire vehicle.Edited by: quantum mechanic

What QM is trying to tell you is -


You have the '97 engine, with enhanced cooling passages between the valves, the hi flow HD waterpump, dual t-stats, etc.


Drop the oil pan at the next oil change -


Wipe the machined block surfaces with a clean rag , removing the oil -


Do it again, with clean rag(s) and lacquer thinner -


Take a coffee break -


When you get back, check the machined surfaces along the pan rails and in the area of the three center mains webbing for black varicose veins -


If you see none, you got a good block.


While at it, check the harmonic balancer for extruded rubber, and\or missing chunks -


Check the accessory drive pulley for rotted or deteriorated rubber, caused by ozone and heat -


Also check the accessory drive pulley for offset, where the hub bolt bosses are near or contacting the pulley crosses, where the rubber is torque-distorted -


Replace if any is observed.


Now, pay attention to the new instrumentation you installed, add 8oz of STP Red to each oil change, add 2oz two-cycle chainsaw oil to each tank of fuel, add 8oz lubricity\cetane improver to each tank of fuel, strict lubricant\filters schedule, and you got longevity.


Additionally - gasoline engines inject fuel into intake port ahead of the valve(s), providing lubrication for the intake valve\seats.


Diesel engines inject fuel directly into the cylinder, bypassing the intake valves.


The CDR system provides intake valve\seat lubrication, by mixing crankcase vapors with air intake.


Don't leave home without it........Edited by: gmctd

knkreb,


I am with you. The only mods I am interested in, are the ones that will help my engine run for 300k+ miles. With that in mind, I plan on doing the cooling system upgrade next spring along with a timing chain replacement. Then maybe I might ponder an Intercooler, and new head whether it needs them or not at 200k miles.

Here's my advice for increasing IP longevity


Low # vent wire, ie 21662 (#2), put return oil at top of specifications, keeps fuel cooler, and makes it pass through the filter more often.


Low resistor #, ie 30892 (#1), what this does is keep PMD energize times trimmed as far as possible, less energized times means less heat created and extended life expectancy.


Good fuel additive, ie Stanadyne Perf, Lubricity keeps pump parts working, cetane gives you more bang for your buck at the pump and on the highway.