Can someone built me a pretty off the chain tune for a 07 4.8 v8 motor shes a classic

Can someone built me a pretty off the chain tune for a 07 4.8 v8 motor shes a classic


?

whats the question

pretty off the chain tune

what's this



you can't do much w/ gassers.

i no u cant put u can atleast do a little better then stock

Is this the same truck that I helped you tune back in January? Did you ever learn how to do logging so you can see whats going on with KR, timing and fueling? Did you buy a wideband O2 sensor? Those are almost a must with gas tuning.

Ya buddy same truck how much is that senosor. Also i no how to log on my diesel i will give it a try on dads gasser

An Innovative LC-1 wide band is about $200. Like I told you before, you can't just "build a hot" tune for a gasser. The tune I gave you is a good start with most all the basics done to it. If you want more, you need to use a wideband to dial in the VE table (autoVE) and then the same with the MAF table. Then you can add a small amount of timing till you see Knock Retard (KR) and then back it off a little. You will destroy a gas engine if you have too much timing and get to much knock. Gas motors HAVE to be individually fine tuned to get the most power out of them and your I'm talking maybe 10-15hp. Doing this on a Dyno is really the only way to know if what your doing is helping on gas motors. Your best bet is to read though the tutorials in the help tab of EFILive.

Most of my experience is in gas tuning, so I have a pretty good idea on what I'm talking about here. I'm just getting into the diesel tuning with the 03 my dad just bought. I can tell you diesels are WAY easier to tune and "build hot tunes" for.

right on buddy where can i buy this senosr at his birthday is around the corner and would like to get it for him

http://www.greenlightmotorsports.com/product_info.php?cPath=24&products_id=30

Put in the comments I sent ya ;)

Hey u want me to become a member of the forum correct. Seems like a nice place. Also it shows the wide band is 1,000 dollars

Innovate Motorsports LC-1 Wideband Controller is $199.00
It connects directly to your EFILive and is logged with it.

What I meant is the comments of the order page if you buy one. I help the guy who owns that site and get a couple of bucks for bring him business.

I will for sure let him no. Will i notice a big differnce if i where to purchase this. And what exactly does it allow u to do??

I will for sure let him no. Will i notice a big differnce if i where to purchase this. And what exactly does it allow u to do??

Your not going to notice any difference with a WB O2. It's a tool you use to tune the truck. Stock O2 sensors only measure accurately around 14.7 to 1 AFR which is where the least amount of emissions are produced but not where the most power is archived. A WB O2 sensor is accurate from 10 to1 to 20 to 1 AFR. Best power for most NA gas engines at wide open throttle is around 12.8 to 13.2. A wide band lets you accurately measure AFR so you can fine tune it with EFILive for the most power. Its nothing more then a tool.

Your not going to notice any difference with a WB O2. It's a tool you use to tune the truck. Stock O2 sensors only measure accurately around 14.7 to 1 AFR which is where the least amount of emissions are produced but not where the most power is archived. A WB O2 sensor is accurate from 10 to1 to 20 to 1 AFR. Best power for most NA gas engines at wide open throttle is around 12.8 to 13.2. A wide band lets you accurately measure AFR so you can fine tune it with EFILive for the most power. Its nothing more then a tool.


SSSSHHHHHHH, don't tell anyone but I've had an LM-1 in my mid pipe for about 18 mo. Works well for monitoring transitions from low to hi TPS as well as WOT conditions. Although most people around here seem to think AFR is meaningless to diesel tuning I'll let you be the judge of that for yourself. ;)

SSSSHHHHHHH, don't tell anyone but I've had an LM-1 in my mid pipe for about 18 mo. Works well for monitoring transitions from low to hi TPS as well as WOT conditions. Although most people around here seem to think AFR is meaningless to diesel tuning I'll let you be the judge of that for yourself. ;)Care to share any more info on this? What do you aim for, as far as A/F ratio, when you tune?

Care to share any more info on this? What do you aim for, as far as A/F ratio, when you tune?

and the information stops. lol

SSSSHHHHHHH, don't tell anyone but I've had an LM-1 in my mid pipe for about 18 mo. Works well for monitoring transitions from low to hi TPS as well as WOT conditions. Although most people around here seem to think AFR is meaningless to diesel tuning I'll let you be the judge of that for yourself. ;)


I dont think its meaningless thats just ignorance:D

Care to share any more info on this? What do you aim for, as far as A/F ratio, when you tune?

Depends what your intended goals are, if tuning for increased top end HP a much lower AFR will be required than if you building a mileage tune or tow tune. The AFR of a diesel can fluctuate between perhaps 70-80:1 at idle, 40-60:1 under cruise or light pedal conditions all the way down to 10:1 or under at WOT depending on fueling and air flow.

Here are a few characteristics I have found on my LLY.
Less than Stoich results in smoke, ie: 10:1 = very thick black smoke, 15-18:1 = light haze, 20+:1 = clean.

As far as WOT tuning goes, I would start around Stoich and go from there based on dyno runs or mph from an ET slip.

Sorry duplicate post

now you've opened up a can of worms Dave... :D

ben

Depends what your intended goals are, if tuning for increased top end HP a much lower AFR will be required than if you building a mileage tune or tow tune. The AFR of a diesel can fluctuate between perhaps 70-80:1 at idle, 40-60:1 under cruise or light pedal conditions all the way down to 10:1 or under at WOT depending on fueling and air flow.

Here are a few characteristics I have found on my LLY.
Less than Stoich results in smoke, ie: 10:1 = very thick black smoke, 15-18:1 = light haze, 20+:1 = clean.

As far as WOT tuning goes, I would start around Stoich and go from there based on dyno runs or mph from an ET slip.Interesting info. Thanks for sharing.

Depends what your intended goals are, if tuning for increased top end HP a much lower AFR will be required than if you building a mileage tune or tow tune. The AFR of a diesel can fluctuate between perhaps 70-80:1 at idle, 40-60:1 under cruise or light pedal conditions all the way down to 10:1 or under at WOT depending on fueling and air flow.

Here are a few characteristics I have found on my LLY.
Less than Stoich results in smoke, ie: 10:1 = very thick black smoke, 15-18:1 = light haze, 20+:1 = clean.

As far as WOT tuning goes, I would start around Stoich and go from there based on dyno runs or mph from an ET slip.

thanks im looking for 18.1:D
DID you hook this up to your EFI if so did you then make a calc PID?
did innovative MS or green light MS get you rigged up with all the fixens?

im gonna check out the site right now but i would like your input

thanks:)

IM BUYING ONE
never have to many tools:D

so did you drill and tap into the exhaust or what?

im gonna need a calc PID right?

thanks im looking for 18.1:D
DID you hook this up to your EFI if so did you then make a calc PID?
did innovative MS or green light MS get you rigged up with all the fixens?

im gonna check out the site right now but i would like your input

thanks:)

We've bought 2, one from a local dealer and one online. The only thing you will need is a std 18mm O2 bung which usually comes with the kit. The one thing to be aware of is that the range of output from the LM-1/LC-1 is limited to between 10:1 and 20:1 even though the LM-1(not familiar with LC-1) itself can measure AND display between 10:1 and 80:1. So if you are logging steady state cruising at 55mph the log will show 20:1 until you get deeper into the throttle and AFR drops below 20:1, although the display will show the measured AFR. No biggey, simply use Flashscan's filter function to eliminate the higher AFR's. EFILive already set up calculated PIDs for the common WBO2's, the one I use is named CALC.AFR_PLX1.

For monitoring combustion outside the 10:1-20:1 range I have been using a calculated PID for Equivalence Ratio originally posted by Fingers. It's not by any means but I feel it's better than nothing when working on throttle transitions and so forth.

We've bought 2, one from a local dealer and one online. The only thing you will need is a std 18mm O2 bung which usually comes with the kit. The one thing to be aware of is that the range of output from the LM-1/LC-1 is limited to between 10:1 and 20:1 even though the LM-1(not familiar with LC-1) itself can measure AND display between 10:1 and 80:1. So if you are logging steady state cruising at 55mph the log will show 20:1 until you get deeper into the throttle and AFR drops below 20:1, although the display will show the measured AFR. No biggey, simply use Flashscan's filter function to eliminate the higher AFR's. EFILive already set up calculated PIDs for the common WBO2's, the one I use is named CALC.AFR_PLX1.

For monitoring combustion outside the 10:1-20:1 range I have been using a calculated PID for Equivalence Ratio originally posted by Fingers. It's not by any means but I feel it's better than nothing when working on throttle transitions and so forth.


thank you
basically how did you install it?

The LM-1 comes with a weld in bung and plug you can weld into your exhaust pipe.

thank you
basically how did you install it?

I welded the 18mm bung into the mid pipe at the 9 o'clock position, approx 12-15" away from the 4 bolt flange that connects to the cat-back section and ran the sensor cable through the passenger side door jam for ease of removal. I replace the sensor with a std 18mm oil drain plug when not being used.