About a year and a half ago when I called around and priced out wheel bearing Napa gave me the best deal, but that wheel bearing must have been junk because it needs to be replaced again already:mad: . What do you pay for and where have you bought yours in the past?

napa here 500.00 plus for 1 good wheel bearing,268.00 for a cheap one.

Assume we're talking front hub/bearing assemblies? Do you have a good local independent parts dealer? I have found with the two I deal with they boast using only North American made bearings for about the same money as NAPA who *apparently* sell overseas bearings.

Pretty expensive part to be cheaping out on IMO. Get one with a decent warranty and make sure you know where it came from.

The Napa one I bought was the silver one I guess they call it. I wish now I would of got the "gold" with the lifetime warranty. The silver one was only like $250 I think. The gold was considerably more. Good thing there fun to replace though.:rolleyes:

NAPA has went over to the pencil pushers I am afraid. Cheap stuff / hi price.

Side note on bearings going out. Get a infra red temp gun.

Brakes are dragging on your truck. I know. :rolleyes:

Often these assemblies are from off shore suppliers in name brand boxes. So "White Box" parts at a lower price can be a good deal - You just didn't buy a warranty - Its hard to tell! But the best thing you can do is find the tork spec and tighten a new nut onto the new assembly using that tork spec. Be prepared - its big foot pounds.

Many of these hub assemblies fail because they are simply "rattled" tight via the air wrench.

I have the spec at work - PM me if the parts guy cannot help you with it!

Torque Specs:

Driveaxle nut to hub and bearing:
'94 and earlier: 173'lbs
'95: 180'lbs
'96 and later: 165'lbs

Many of these hub assemblies fail because they are simply "rattled" tight via the air wrench.


The hub assembly I did on mine came with a warning saying "DO NOT USE IMPACT WRENCH"

Does anyone know what size that nut that is on the CV shaft and comes through the wheel bearing assembly is? I know its big, and I know I dont have a socket for it. So if anyone remembers or knows where I can find out it'd be a great help.

good luck outlaw. Hope you get her back on the road..

1 3/8" I had the socket too in 3/4" :o: Maybe if I organzied things a little I could get things done quicker.

I wanna say I am the biggest Polock of all time right now. I went and bought a wheel bearing assembly, tore everything apart. Got a good look at my brake pads. Then one was perfect. The other one towards the inside shot. Nothing left. New brake pads, and everything is all better. But in my defense it sounded and acted just like when the wheel bearing went out last time. I just dodged a $290 bullet.:smashfrea

I wanna say I am the biggest Polock of all time right now. I went and bought a wheel bearing assembly, tore everything apart. Got a good look at my brake pads. Then one was perfect. The other one towards the inside shot. Nothing left. New brake pads, and everything is all better. But in my defense it sounded and acted just like when the wheel bearing went out last time. I just dodged a $290 bullet.:smashfrea

If the inside pad is shot and the outside one is still good may I suggest that either the caliper is sticking on the spindle or the caliper piston is sticking and/or the caliper is bad - but if you simply pushed back the old caliper piston and slammed a set of new pads on that one side without replacing the caliper - without cleaning and lubing with caliper grease (and you really need to to a total brake job - replace both calipers and front hoses)
well you may be in for a redo on this task soon! But good luck to ya! This is simply IMO!

Yeah, the bolts were a little sticky, I greased them up real good and now they slide nice, I'm gunna take off the wheel in a week or two and check how it's wearing. At least the rotor was in good shape.