Okay here is a tough one...

How do you all remove the AL oil cooler lines as they attach to the engine block?

I have heard they are retained by clips... But they are not very obvious to me.

The goal is to install the Lubrication Specialties oil cooler kit with SS braided lines. Seems like a nice kit if I could get the old stuff off.

... The old rubber portions of the lines were/are leaking like crazy.

And yes I did read this thread: http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19162

Turning wrenches on the computer is much easier than actually doing it. :D



Thanks again,

Look in last part of FAQ pictures I posted some pics of fittings not too long ago

Yup post 42 there has the pics wire retaining clip comes out of the fitting, then the aluminum tube pulls outward from the fitting in the block, on 4x4 you can access the fitting easier by removing the front drive shaft. I tried to finesse the old line whole, when it wouldn't come out easy i got mad & just cut them in half. a K1500 doesn't have the same clearance as the C1500 burbs nor as much as K2500 & 3500 trucks

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& .....

Adrian from line of questioning am I correct in assuming you are "fiixing to" replace your lines, if so please grab pics and we will use this for a how to thread & link it to FAQ

Sure thing Tim. I am collecting pics as I go and will get them onto TDP as soon as I can.

Since this is a K series truck I did remove the oil filter mount as it was directly in the way. Luckily I have a 36mm socket.

Granted I now need the o-ring gaskets for the oil filter mount as it seems they weeped a little as well.

I found the clips to remove, but still a little stuck... I might get more destructive tomorrow. ;) Also my lines are different than the photos, but still stock.

IF I knew how kinky the x-over exhaust pipe was, I would have been replacing it as well in this endevour... I will add it to the "to-do" list.

Thanks!!!

Those pics I took are off a C1500 & I'd be willing to guess 98 VWs are off of a C series truck also, ones on the K1500 before converting to Greg's kit were different had sort of a "tail extension" out the back of the fitting, also IIRC I had to grind off one side the 4x4 filter adapter to clear the new block fittings, & also IIRC I sacrificed a 18mm wrench to make a stubby out of it 1 flat swing room, & again dropping front drive shaft gave me a little more room to work.

When you are ready take a look at the cross Heath sells, it's mandrel bent like others, but it is 2 piece allows for it to be installed without any stress to left & right manifolds, 1st manderel one I put on my truck was a 1 piece when it rotted out, (Katrina saltwater) I replaced it & one on my burb with the 2 piece Heath sells much easier install

... Still I cannot get those blasted things off!

Grrr.

Dont worry about trying to take the clips off, just unscrew the fitting from the block, and cut/pry/bend the lines. My guess, is after turning the block fitting a bit with a wrench, the clips will come loose anyway.

Got er done!

What an absolute PITA!!! Probably the worst automotive repair I have ever done.

I ended up cutting through the AL line 3" out from the fitting with a handheld hacksaw blade. After cutting off the main line and removing it, I could grab both sides of the "T" and wiggle them off from the block fitting. Then use a 30mm socket on one fitting and a Crescent wrench on the other.

One key item was the line support bracket, remove it and re-use even with the new SS Braid lines.

The real surprise was the oil filter 90 degree bracket... The rubber o-rings are unobtainium through the GM parts counter. At least at my Chevy dealer as the parts diagrams do not show the K series setup. I got the main o-ring, but not the two smaller o-rings used for the bolt sealing. Really disappointing on the GM parts data. Also you will need a 36mm socket to get this off.

as always: pics and write up to come. :)

Your dealer is full of crap. Check the parts point sticky the part numbers are there.