Has anyone removed the factory fuel filter completely? I have put a Racor on the chassis rail and the micron rating is less than the factory set-up. No real need for it anymore. It's just another restriction in the fuel system.

I don't recall seeing anybody doing this.

What did you do with the WIF light/harness? How did you plumb it?

Thanks

Hey Bill mine is off to the side haven't pulled it completely not connected electrically rite now, I'm thinking of making extension harness for it so I'll have the heating element come winter which ain't much down this way. I moved it when I did the feeding the beast mod, if removing restrictions to fuel flow is what your are looking to do then the feed the beast is a must do IMO search for it, it's been back on top recently.

Stanadyne filter is actually a very good filter, just in an awkward spot. Trick is to attach 1/4" hose to bleeder, open drain valve (with drain hose in suitable container to catch fuel), open bleeder slightly and blow into 1/4" hose to empty filter housing through drain valve. Now when you open filter, no mess and less chance of inlet side (dirty) fuel entering center outlet tube and contaminating inj. pump. I guess I'm saying I would have left OEM filter in place. I'm all for filtration, but what these trucks should have had was a primary filter (10-30 micron) between tank & supply pump and not that stupid "sock" in the tank. Does your Racor have a water in fuel sensor or a fuel heater?... possible you could use them but would have to check specs. (esp. heater) to be sure PCM wouldn't be harmed.

I'm considering 'Feed The Beast' mod. But instead of replacing fittings in filter housing, I was just going to eliminate completely.

I haven't figured out how I would plumb it minus filter yet.

Thought maybe somebody had a simple solution.

Stock filter is darn good. Never saw a DS pump damaged from dirt.

I'm not doubting ability of filter. Wix reboxes Stanadyne filters and lists them at a nominal micron rating of 5.

But when I have a Racor rated at 2 in front of it, or before it, what purpose as far as filtration does it have?

I'm considering 'Feed The Beast' mod. But instead of replacing fittings in filter housing, I was just going to eliminate completely.

I haven't figured out how I would plumb it minus filter yet.

Thought maybe somebody had a simple solution.


I'm considering for mine a 30 micron vs 10 on frame to the factory which depending which mfr you talk to is a 10 micron or a 5, tech manual says it's 10 (MGW from our discussion on other site your info possibly more accurate than what Wix filter co says) to a 2 micron final just prior to the IP.

Bill since the GM manual says factory filter is 10 micron, a 10 micron frame rail only should be sufficient IMO since you are up North where it gets cold if your Racor or other you may be using does not have heating you should consider adding that option.

Don't forget if feeding the beast you will want to change the IP inlet fitting, hard to find one like I had made, it's a #4 ORB which IIRC is 7/16-20 straight threads, with 3/8" od barb for .280 fitting id, you also can very carefully drill out the 4 holes in the end of the transfer regulator for more flow as well 5/32" is what I opened mine up to

Tierd approach to fuel cleaning is best 30 to 10 to 2 is optimum as filter flow will not be compromised by early clogging of element by biggest stuff first, so 30 would trap the biggest but let finer stuff pass, 10 more but not having to deal with biggest stuff, and the 2 micron for stuff down to biological growth sized particles.

I'm not a fan of 2 micron for everything I had a bad experience in USN where a 1 filter does all system when clogged actually blew when it was fully clogged by big & small so no filtering was happening, not only was trash in fuel happening as fuel flowed by the "holed" section of the element the filter media/fibers itself became trash as it broke apart and trashed a $250K jet fuel control (injection pump)

Stanadyne filter is actually a very good filter, just in an awkward spot. Trick is to attach 1/4" hose to bleeder, open drain valve (with drain hose in suitable container to catch fuel), open bleeder slightly and blow into 1/4" hose to empty filter housing through drain valve. Now when you open filter, no mess and less chance of inlet side (dirty) fuel entering center outlet tube and contaminating inj. pump. I guess I'm saying I would have left OEM filter in place. I'm all for filtration, but what these trucks should have had was a primary filter (10-30 micron) between tank & supply pump and not that stupid "sock" in the tank. Does your Racor have a water in fuel sensor or a fuel heater?... possible you could use them but would have to check specs. (esp. heater) to be sure PCM wouldn't be harmed.

Now, that's a slick trick! Let me get this straight. You attach a 1/4" hose to the bleeder (on the top of the filter), open the drain valve (the t-valve near front of engine) and blow low-pressure air into the 1/4" hose after opening both valves? So.. the air displaces the fuel in the filter bowl and goes out the drain valve?

Thanks,

Rob :)

Just blow into it, no compressed air needed. Came up with this after my first filter change when it did this-:t all over the place. Also didn't like the fact that unfiltered fuel overflowed into outlet tube in center of filter housing. Bleeding this filter can still be a pain because no matter how you adjust the bleeder screw, fuel seems to exit around bottom of bleeder screw instead of through tube. However, if you remove bleeder from filter before installation and soak it in fuel, the o-ring will soften and swell slightly... usually works. By the way, most of you have the fuel pump jumper hanging out of the harness by the master cylinder [red wire w/ old style, unsealed 1/4" female blade terminal]. Just supply fused 12V power to run lift pump for bleeding. (I use a remote starter switch).

Just blow into it, no compressed air needed. Came up with this after my first filter change when it did this-:t all over the place. Also didn't like the fact that unfiltered fuel overflowed into outlet tube in center of filter housing. Bleeding this filter can still be a pain because no matter how you adjust the bleeder screw, fuel seems to exit around bottom of bleeder screw instead of through tube. However, if you remove bleeder from filter before installation and soak it in fuel, the o-ring will soften and swell slightly... usually works. By the way, most of you have the fuel pump jumper hanging out of the harness by the master cylinder [red wire w/ old style, unsealed 1/4" female blade terminal]. Just supply fused 12V power to run lift pump for bleeding. (I use a remote starter switch).


By your sig line, I see you have a post 94 model. Won't your flift pump run by putting the tranny in drive and turning the key to start?

That is the way my 95 operates. Never had a problem getting air out after a filter change.