I was cruising home from work last week when my truck died.

It turned out to be a toasted solenoid on the starter. When it fried it must have shorted out and drained my batteries. That's my best guess anyway.

I took the starter off and had a new solenoid put on. I had my batteries tested. One turned out good, one bad. They were purchased in February of this year. So it was replaced. While I had my passenger wheel and fender liner out I figured it was a good time to change the fuel filter as well.

A few hours of work and I had it all taken care of. The truck fired right up. I pick up all of my tools, hopped in the driver's seat. Started it up just fine again. Drop it down into drive and nothing happens.

The gear indicator lights were acting a little funny so I shut it off and tried again. Same thing except I had a MIL now. I happen to have a spare NSBU switch laying around so I swapped that out. Still no go. Since this was an old NSBU and I had a new one it (both are in good condition) I switched it back.

The codes it threw were p0743, p0763, and p0768. I cleared them out and they didn't resurface but I am still stuck with a running truck that won't move. :(

Anyone have any idea where I should start?

Pull the main harness connecter off the back of the Alli ( right rear above pan ) and see if it moves.

I did that already, but I will try again.

I rechecked it. I cleaned all of the connections and the gear indicator seems to be functioning a little better. However, it still doesn't engage in gear.

I rechecked it. I cleaned all of the connections and the gear indicator seems to be functioning a little better. However, it still doesn't engage in gear.

I don't care what you rechecked. did you pull the harness off and try it?

Think he means to unplug it and leave it off to see if it will move then .

I don't care what you rechecked. did you pull the harness off and try it?
Yes, I did. It acts the same either way other than "High Temp - Idle Engine" is in the info box. And the codes are back.

Think he means to unplug it and leave it off to see if it will move then .
I think I worded my reply wrong.

Sorry for the confusion.

Unplugging the harness took all the electronics out of the picture. You should now be stuck in 3rd gear. If it still doesn't move pull the pan and check linkage to make sure there is no problem. After that its time to pull the trans.
Were you driving the truck hard when this happened?

Unplugging the harness took all the electronics out of the picture. You should now be stuck in 3rd gear. If it still doesn't move pull the pan and check linkage to make sure there is no problem. After that its time to pull the trans.
Were you driving the truck hard when this happened?

It still doesn't move.

I'll go out in a minute and pull the pan.

As far as driving it hard, it was completely the opposite. I was on the brakes turning onto an exit.

I forgot to mention that when it was pulled onto the rollback it went into neutral and back into park. Then when they dropped it off at my house it went into neutral again and back into park.

It didn't appear to have any transmission problems before all of the electrical problems occurred but I'm not going to rule out anything.

Thanks for your help so far Mike. I'll give an update as soon as I get back inside.

I dropped the pan and the linkage seems fine.

The fluid has about 1000 miles on it and seems a little dark but doesn't smell burnt.

What am I looking at with a worse case scenario?

I'm really dreading to hear this.

With the round plug removed from the transmission you should get 3rd gear in any forward gear and Reverse along with Park. If you get nothing I would check the cooler lines by the starter and make sure a hole didn't get into them by the shorting out starter. It's a long shot but at least take a look. Was the fluid level checked before you dropped the pan?

With the round plug removed from the transmission you should get 3rd gear in any forward gear and Reverse along with Park. If you get nothing I would check the cooler lines by the starter and make sure a hole didn't get into them by the shorting out starter. It's a long shot but at least take a look. Was the fluid level checked before you dropped the pan?

I'll check the lines tomorrow when I get home from work and see if I can find a hole.

I did check the fluid level before I dropped the pan and it was fine. As far as the fluid goes it may be a little dark but it doesn't seem worse than it should be. Also there wasn't any debris in the bottom of the pan.

This is a real long shot, but, is there any way somehow your xfer case got into neutral during this short?

This is a real long shot, but, is there any way somehow your xfer case got into neutral during this short?

If it is, the indicator isn't showing it. I've shifted it from 2wd, 4wd, and 4 lo. It sounds like it is engaging.

Where my truck is right now its kind of in the way. I was actually hoping I could get it into neutral and move it.

So you are saying it wont go into neutral so you can't move it at all... even with a tow strap??

So you are saying it wont go into neutral so you can't move it at all... even with a tow strap??

I didn't use a tow strap but I can say two guys can't push it.

I hate to ask you this, but could the park brake cable got some damage when loaded ot the flat bed? You say you hear the gear changes in the xfer case..it should move if the neutral light is lit no matter what the tranny is doing.

I hate to ask you this, but could the park brake cable got some damage when loaded ot the flat bed? You say you hear the gear changes in the xfer case..it should move if the neutral light is lit no matter what the tranny is doing.

It won't go into neutral in the transfer case. Its been 2 days since I tried it but I think putting the trans in neutral was part of the process.

The only reason I asked is because in post #16 you said you could hear the changes. Even if you cant get the tranny in neutral you can "rock" the truck back and forth while engaging neutral on the xfer case switches and it should go into neutral (the transfer case will go into neutral even if tranny is in park and totally locked up). It's not all that complex. Good luck!

The only reason I asked is because in post #16 you said you could hear the changes. Even if you cant get the tranny in neutral you can "rock" the truck back and forth while engaging neutral on the xfer case switches and it should go into neutral (the transfer case will go into neutral even if tranny is in park and totally locked up). It's not all that complex. Good luck!

Well atleast I can get it out of the way now. I didn't think of rocking the truck to get it to go into neutral. I just tried the way it should work.

Thanks for the help. Now if I can just get it to move under its own power.

I have a minor update. I managed to get it into neutral. Rocking it back and forth didn't allow me to get the transfer case in neutral but I was able to get the trans in neutral. I also checked the cooler lines and there wasn't a leak or a hole.

Anyone have any other thoughts or ideas?

I'm still stuck in the garage....

When the engine is revved in park and neutral it acts fine. If it is reverse or drive it cuts out at 1600 rpms.

I dropped the pan again and checked solenoid D, it opens and closes correctly. Is there something else I should check on it?

We had the starter short out on our 01 dually they said it damged some wiring as well did you chck alll the wiring from the starter and to the fuse box

I didn't check it. The truck starts and runs fine now, I am willing to try about anything at this point.